A beginner's guide to maintenance tools - Revision history

Bokonon: /* Screwdrivers */

2010-07-30T13:29:08Z

‎Screwdrivers

Bokonon: /* Oil changing tools */

2010-07-30T13:26:59Z

‎Oil changing tools

Bokonon at 13:22, 30 July 2010

2010-07-30T13:22:31Z

Bokonon: /* Tire changing tools */

2009-10-23T23:23:33Z

‎Tire changing tools

Bokonon: /* Tools to buy */

2009-10-23T23:22:57Z

‎Tools to buy

Bokonon at 23:21, 23 October 2009

2009-10-23T23:21:36Z

Bokonon at 23:21, 23 October 2009

2009-10-23T23:21:00Z

Bokonon at 16:20, 23 October 2009

2009-10-23T16:20:54Z

Bokonon at 12:22, 22 August 2009

2009-08-22T12:22:06Z

Show changes

Bokonon at 02:52, 19 January 2009

2009-01-19T02:52:54Z

@@ Line 58: / Line 58: @@
 ====Screwdrivers====
-By this time it's probably winter, and you're going to want to put the bike away for a few months. Since you want it to start easily when you pull it out the next season, you're going to need to [[How to drain the float bowls|drain the carbs of fuel]] so they don't get all gummed up. This is a REALLY simple task, but you need some screwdrivers. This is the one place you are urged to splurge and buy the best that's out there. Buggered-up screws are always headaches and are easily avoided by using a quality tool, and always using the right size screwdriver for the job. You'll want to buy a #1, #2 and #3 Phillips, and small and large flat blade screwdrivers. Stubbies, long shaft, and other odd screwdrivers can be of lower quality, but not the ones you use on a daily basis.
+By this time it's probably winter, and you're going to want to put the bike away for a few months. Since you want it to start easily when you pull it out the next season, you're going to need to [[Draining the carbs|drain the carbs]] of fuel so they don't get all gummed up. This is a REALLY simple task, but you need some screwdrivers. This is the one place you are urged to splurge and buy the best that's out there. Buggered-up screws are always headaches and are easily avoided by using a quality tool, and always using the right size screwdriver for the job. You'll want to buy a #1, #2 and #3 Phillips, and small and large flat blade screwdrivers. Stubbies, long shaft, and other odd screwdrivers can be of lower quality, but not the ones you use on a daily basis.
 ====Allen wrenches====

@@ Line 28: / Line 28: @@
 A 6-point socket is superior to a 12-point because it fits the bolt/nut better, providing more surface area and less chance of rounding off the head. For $100 you can buy all these pieces from a high-end maker, or about $70 from Sears/Home Depot/Lowe's. Always buy from a company that offers a lifetime unconditional guarantee and is easy to access. You'll also need an oil drain pan ($10). A funnel and rubber gloves really help a lot, too.
-[http://www.microflex.com/products/catalog/dg.asp MicroFlex Diamond Grip] latex gloves work well. These have a unique texture on the fingers that actually grips after they get wet. They're inexpensive, and you can use one pair for a whole day of wrenching. For the areas the gloves don't cover, [http://www2.northerntool.com/product/580415.htm Gojo hand cleaner], or something similar, is easy on your hands but still gets them clean.
+[http://www.microflex.com/Products/DGP-350.aspx MicroFlex Diamond Grip] latex gloves work well. These have a unique texture on the fingers that actually grips after they get wet. They're inexpensive, and you can use one pair for a whole day of wrenching. For the areas the gloves don't cover, [http://www2.northerntool.com/product/580415.htm Gojo hand cleaner], or something similar, is easy on your hands but still gets them clean.
 ====Torque wrench====

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [[Category:New Riders|Engine|Intake]]
 __TOC__
-This is the ULTRA beginners guide, for those who haven't ''any'' experience, much less tools. For those folks, the prospect is often a daunting one when it comes to doing any sort of work on their precious new bikes. You're worried about screwing something up, voiding the warranty, and just generally getting in over your head. Well, not to worry. If you can read and use your hands, then you have what it takes to do anything your bike might need.
+So, you're new to riding and want to save money by doing your own maintenance?
 ==Become informed==
-Just like gear is needed before you start riding, information is needed before you start wrenching. This forum, its associated FAQ, and its archive search are an amazing free resource. Chances are that no matter what you plan on doing, a handful of members have already done the same job. And it's even fairly likely that there's a pictorial write-up floating about with step-by-step instructions. But that doesn't mean you should skip out on buying the [[Service Manual|factory service manuals]] ~ there's a LOT of detailed information in those 2 manuals that's not found anywhere else. And yes, that includes the cheap aftermarket knock-offs (like Haynes). There is sometimes information in those that is just blatantly wrong. Since this is asked from time to time, there are no legal downloads of the manuals. It's not on CD, and be wary of the copies on eBay ~ Kawasaki takes its copyright laws seriously.
+Just like gear is needed before you start riding, information is needed before you start wrenching. This forum, its associated FAQ, and its archive search are an amazing free resource. Chances are that no matter what you plan on doing, a handful of members have already done the same job. And it's even fairly likely that there's a pictorial write-up in the FAQ with step-by-step instructions. But that doesn't mean you should skip out on buying the [[Service Manual|factory service manuals]] ~ there's a lot of detailed information in those 2 manuals that's not found anywhere else. And yes, that includes the cheap aftermarket knock-offs (like Haynes). There is sometimes information in those that is just blatantly wrong. Since this is asked from time to time, there are no legal downloads of the manuals. It's not on CD, and be wary of the copies on eBay ~ Kawasaki takes its copyright laws seriously.
 [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ninja_250_Rider%27s_bookshelf#Maintenance_and_Repair See here] for the manuals needed and their associated part numbers. You can buy the manuals from anywhere that supplies factory Kawasaki parts.
@@ Line 17: / Line 18: @@
 ==Tools to buy==
-This is a touchy topic with a lot of 'right' answers. It's a good idea to make sure that the stuff you use most often is of the highest quality, with the stuff you use only occasionally cheap. There's an old saying that 'Only a wealthy man can afford cheap tools', because the tools themselves will break, and they'll do a sub-par job. The best example is trying to remove a phillips screw: most cheap screwdrivers will not grip the screw very well and will end up stripping out the head in short order. Then you will have to worry about trying to get it out [[I need to remove a stripped screw|some other way]], when a good tool would have done it the first time. Spend your money on the best you can afford; you'll be doing these purchases in small steps, so it's not out of the question that you could buy Snap-On/Mac/Matco type tools. See the [[Ratings Of Tools By Brand|tool article]] for a discussion of tool brands.
+This is a touchy topic with a lot of 'right' answers. It's a good idea to make sure that the stuff you use most often is of the highest quality, while the stuff you use only occasionally can be cheaper. There's an old saying that 'Only a wealthy man can afford cheap tools', because the tools themselves will break, and they'll do a sub-par job. The best example is trying to remove a phillips screw: most cheap screwdrivers will not grip the screw very well and will end up stripping out the head in short order. Then you will have to worry about trying to get it out [[I need to remove a stripped screw|some other way]], when a good tool would have done it the first time. Spend your money on the best you can afford; you'll be doing these purchases in small steps, so it's not out of the question that you could buy Snap-On/Mac/Matco type tools. See the [[Ratings Of Tools By Brand|tool article]] for a discussion of tool brands.
 ==Recommended tool purchases, broken down by common jobs==
@@ Line 23: / Line 24: @@
 ====Oil changing tools====
-The first maintenance item most riders are likely to perform will be changing the oil. Not a very daunting task, you've heard it said. Maybe you've seen it done with family cars. There are only 2 bolts, and they're the same size (17mm on the 250). So, the first tool purchase is going to be a 3/8-drive  socket wrench and a set of sockets ''or'' a set of combination wrenches. Sockets are generally a little easier to use, especially for this particular task, but they cannot be used on all aspects of motorcycle maintenance. If you buy a set, the important sizes are 8,10,12,14,17, and 19mm. For the EX250, you'll also need 22mm and 24mm sockets for the axles. 13 and 15mm are usually included in such sets but are rarely used on motorcycles (they will come in handy if you work on metric cars, though). See here for another look at [[What should a good set of tools include?|what should be in your toolbox]].
+The first maintenance item most riders are likely to perform will be changing the oil. Not a very daunting task, you've heard it said. Maybe you've seen it done with family cars. There are only 2 bolts, and they're the same size (17mm on the 250). So, the first tool purchase is going to be a 3/8-drive socket wrench and a set of sockets ''or'' a set of combination wrenches. Sockets are generally a little easier to use, especially for this particular task, but they cannot be used on all aspects of motorcycle maintenance. If you buy a set, the important sizes are 8,10,12,14,17, and 19mm. For the EX250, you'll also need 22mm and 24mm sockets for the axles. 13 and 15mm are usually included in such sets but are rarely used on motorcycles (they will come in handy if you work on metric cars, though). For another look at what should be in your toolbox, [[What should a good set of tools include?|see here]].
-A 6-point socket is superior to a 12-point because it fits the bolt/nut better, providing more surface area and less chance of rounding off the head. For $100 you can buy all these pieces from a high-end maker, or about $70 from Sears/Home Depot/Lowe's. Always buy from a company that offers a lifetime unconditional guarantee and is easy to access. This might be Home Depot or Lowe's for many people. You'll also need an oil drain pan ($10). A funnel and rubber gloves really help a lot, too.
+A 6-point socket is superior to a 12-point because it fits the bolt/nut better, providing more surface area and less chance of rounding off the head. For $100 you can buy all these pieces from a high-end maker, or about $70 from Sears/Home Depot/Lowe's. Always buy from a company that offers a lifetime unconditional guarantee and is easy to access. You'll also need an oil drain pan ($10). A funnel and rubber gloves really help a lot, too.
 [http://www.microflex.com/products/catalog/dg.asp MicroFlex Diamond Grip] latex gloves work well. These have a unique texture on the fingers that actually grips after they get wet. They're inexpensive, and you can use one pair for a whole day of wrenching. For the areas the gloves don't cover, [http://www2.northerntool.com/product/580415.htm Gojo hand cleaner], or something similar, is easy on your hands but still gets them clean.
@@ Line 80: / Line 81: @@
 *A [[Lubing the cables|cable luber]]: $10 item that's absolutely necessary for keeping your clutch and throttle cables in good working order
-And you'll find by this point that you're fairly comfortable working on your bike. After you have all the tools you need, start getting those that will make doing the work easier/quicker. One example is a T-handle that can accommodate 3/8-drive sockets. You may find you use it more than your actual socket wrenches. As you do more work, you'll always find an excuse to buy more tools.
+You'll find by this point that you're fairly comfortable working on your bike. After you have all the tools you need, start getting those that will make doing the work easier/quicker. One example is a T-handle that can accommodate 3/8-drive sockets. You may find you use it more than your actual socket wrenches. As you do more work, you'll always find an excuse to buy more tools.
 Hopefully this will help the newer riders out there who often have simple questions of the maintenance nature. Get the proper resources, use the right tools, and you'll be well on your way to a well-maintained bike.

@@ Line 53: / Line 53: @@
 ====Tire changing tools====
-Changing tires will probably be the next issue that crops up, but you already have the tools necessary for the job with the sockets you bought earlier. You might need to buy a specific size for your bike, but one socket is usually between $5 and $10, so it's not a burden at all. If you're changing the tires yourself and not just taking the wheels off and taking them to a shop, you'll need a couple [[extra tools]].
+Changing tires will probably be the next issue that crops up, but you already have the tools necessary for the job with the sockets you bought earlier. You might need to buy a specific size for your bike, but one socket is usually between $5 and $10, so it's not a burden at all. If you're changing the tires yourself and not just taking the wheels off and taking them to a shop, you'll need a couple [[Mounting & balancing tires yourself|extra tools]].
 ====Screwdrivers====

@@ Line 17: / Line 17: @@
 ==Tools to buy==
-This is a touchy topic with a lot of 'right' answers. It's a good idea to make sure that the stuff you use most often is of the highest quality, with the stuff you use only occasionally cheap. There's an old saying that 'Only a wealthy man can afford cheap tools', because the tools themselves will break, and they'll do a sub-par job. The best example is trying to remove a phillips screw: most cheap screwdrivers will not grip the screw very well and will end up stripping out the head in short order. Then you will have to worry about trying to get it out [[I need to remove a stripped screw|some other way]], when a good tool would have don it the first time. Spend your money on the best you can afford; you'll be doing these purchases in small steps, so it's not out of the question that you could buy Snap-On/Mac/Matco type tools. See the [[Ratings Of Tools By Brand|tool article]] for a discussion of tool brands.
+This is a touchy topic with a lot of 'right' answers. It's a good idea to make sure that the stuff you use most often is of the highest quality, with the stuff you use only occasionally cheap. There's an old saying that 'Only a wealthy man can afford cheap tools', because the tools themselves will break, and they'll do a sub-par job. The best example is trying to remove a phillips screw: most cheap screwdrivers will not grip the screw very well and will end up stripping out the head in short order. Then you will have to worry about trying to get it out [[I need to remove a stripped screw|some other way]], when a good tool would have done it the first time. Spend your money on the best you can afford; you'll be doing these purchases in small steps, so it's not out of the question that you could buy Snap-On/Mac/Matco type tools. See the [[Ratings Of Tools By Brand|tool article]] for a discussion of tool brands.
 ==Recommended tool purchases, broken down by common jobs==

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:21, 23 October 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
	[[Category:New Riders\|Engine\|Intake]]		[[Category:New Riders\|Engine\|Intake]]
		+	__TOC__
	'''So, you're new to riding and wanna save money by doing your own maintenance?'''		'''So, you're new to riding and wanna save money by doing your own maintenance?'''

@@ Line 4: / Line 4: @@
 This is the ULTRA beginners guide, for those who haven't ''any'' experience, much less tools. For those folks, the prospect is often a daunting one when it comes to doing any sort of work on their precious new bikes. You're worried about screwing something up, voiding the warranty, and just generally getting in over your head. Well, not to worry. If you can read and use your hands, then you have what it takes to do anything your bike might need.
-==First things first==
+==Become informed==
 Just like gear is needed before you start riding, information is needed before you start wrenching. This forum, its associated FAQ, and its archive search are an amazing free resource. Chances are that no matter what you plan on doing, a handful of members have already done the same job. And it's even fairly likely that there's a pictorial write-up floating about with step-by-step instructions. But that doesn't mean you should skip out on buying the [[Service Manual|factory service manuals]] ~ there's a LOT of detailed information in those 2 manuals that's not found anywhere else. And yes, that includes the cheap aftermarket knock-offs (like Haynes). There is sometimes information in those that is just blatantly wrong. Since this is asked from time to time, there are no legal downloads of the manuals. It's not on CD, and be wary of the copies on eBay ~ Kawasaki takes its copyright laws seriously.
 [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ninja_250_Rider%27s_bookshelf#Maintenance_and_Repair See here] for the manuals needed and their associated part numbers. You can buy the manuals from anywhere that supplies factory Kawasaki parts.
 Now that you have the information available, it's a good idea to thoroughly read and research whatever task you're going to tackle. Know if you will need any consumable parts, like o-rings, crush washers, or gaskets, and order those well before you plan on doing the work. Know the [[Torque Values]] of all the bolts you're going to be touching, and you might even want to photocopy the page(s) you'll be using so they're handy for quick reference without smudging up your books. There's nothing worse than doing some simple service and having to put it all on hold while you look up the next step in the process or wait for a part to be delivered. If you've got all your information together and you're still hesitant, ask if there's anyone in the area that can help ~ there are members all over the place with different levels of mechanical skill. One may be near you and able to help.
-==Tools==
+==Tools to buy==
 This is a touchy topic with a lot of 'right' answers. It's a good idea to make sure that the stuff you use most often is of the highest quality, with the stuff you use only occasionally cheap. There's an old saying that 'Only a wealthy man can afford cheap tools', because the tools themselves will break, and they'll do a sub-par job. The best example is trying to remove a phillips screw: most cheap screwdrivers will not grip the screw very well and will end up stripping out the head in short order. Then you will have to worry about trying to get it out [[I need to remove a stripped screw|some other way]], when a good tool would have don it the first time. Spend your money on the best you can afford; you'll be doing these purchases in small steps, so it's not out of the question that you could buy Snap-On/Mac/Matco type tools. See the [[Ratings Of Tools By Brand|tool article]] for a discussion of tool brands.
-====Recommended tool purchases, broken down by common jobs====
+==Recommended tool purchases, broken down by common jobs==
 The first maintenance item most riders are likely to perform will be changing the oil. Not a very daunting task, you've heard it said. Maybe you've seen it done with family cars. There are only 2 bolts, and they're the same size (17mm on the 250). So, the first tool purchase is going to be a 3/8-drive  socket wrench and a set of sockets ''or'' a set of combination wrenches. Sockets are generally a little easier to use, especially for this particular task, but they cannot be used on all aspects of motorcycle maintenance. If you buy a set, the important sizes are 8,10,12,14,17, and 19mm. For the EX250, you'll also need 22mm and 24mm sockets for the axles. 13 and 15mm are usually included in such sets but are rarely used on motorcycles (they will come in handy if you work on metric cars, though). See here for another look at [[What should a good set of tools include?|what should be in your toolbox]].
@@ Line 23: / Line 27: @@
 [http://www.microflex.com/products/catalog/dg.asp MicroFlex Diamond Grip] latex gloves work well. These have a unique texture on the fingers that actually grips after they get wet. They're inexpensive, and you can use one pair for a whole day of wrenching. For the areas the gloves don't cover, [http://www2.northerntool.com/product/580415.htm Gojo hand cleaner], or something similar, is easy on your hands but still gets them clean.
 As soon as you buy sockets, and really, before you do any work on your bike, you should buy a quality torque wrench. Some places will offer limited warranties, others offer free calibrations (they go off after a while and need to be recalibrated) ~ you'll have to find one that meets your price range and works for you. This is a tool you'll be using non-stop (almost) so spend the money if you have it to spend.
@@ Line 39: / Line 45: @@
 '''Note 2:''' Practice using your torque wrench before you put it to real use. You don't want to strip your oil drain plug because you didn't know what your torque wrench felt like when it hit the proper torque.
 The next item of maintenance a rider is likely to encounter is adjusting the chain. This is one of those areas where a socket just won't work and you need a wrench. You'll still need a socket to loosen the rear axle, but the wrench will be used for adjusting the tension of the chain. You need to buy wrenches in the same sizes as the sockets mentioned above. Another cheap but handy tool is a 6" metal machinist's ruler ~ this will easily fit under the swingarm and give you accurate measurements for checking the slack ($3 anywhere). Similarly, a standard issue tape measure (the kind that you pull out of a body, usually goes to about 7 or 10') will come in handy for measuring the distance from the center of the axle to the center of the swingarm pivot on both sides, so you can ensure that the wheel is straight in the swingarm.
-Changing tires will probably be the next issue that crops up, but you already have the tools necessary for the job with the sockets you bought earlier. You might need to buy a specific size for your bike, but one socket is usually between $5 and $10, so it's not a burden at all.
+====Tire changing tools====
 By this time it's probably winter, and you're going to want to put the bike away for a few months. Since you want it to start easily when you pull it out the next season, you're going to need to [[How to drain the float bowls|drain the carbs of fuel]] so they don't get all gummed up. This is a REALLY simple task, but you need some screwdrivers. This is the one place you are urged to splurge and buy the best that's out there. Buggered-up screws are always headaches and are easily avoided by using a quality tool, and always using the right size screwdriver for the job. You'll want to buy a #1, #2 and #3 Phillips, and small and large flat blade screwdrivers. Stubbies, long shaft, and other odd screwdrivers can be of lower quality, but not the ones you use on a daily basis.
 At some point you're going to need to remove the fairing or something else that uses Allen screws. There are a few options for Allen drivers: A set of individual keys (usually with a ball on the long end), a set of T-handles, or a set of 3/8-drive sockets. You'll probably use the sockets the most, followed by the T's, and rarely pull out the individual keys. You'll want a set from 3mm to 10mm. The better the quality, the less likely they will round off. (In this case the tool rounds off, while the screw is somewhat salvageable).
 With all the success you've had doing maintenance, you might finally decide to take on a valve adjustment. Your tool kit is becoming fairly well-stocked, and you have most of the tools needed to do the job. The only 2 new additions at this point are the  [[Is there a special tool to make this easier?|Factory valve adjustment tool]] and feeler gauges. Long feeler gauges (5" or longer) of the 'go, no-go' design are easier to use in tight spaces like the EX250 head.
 Other tools you ought to pick up as time and money allow (these can all be cheaper, though it's always a good idea to buy something with a warranty) are:

@@ Line 8: / Line 8: @@
 Just like gear is needed before you start riding, information is needed before you start wrenching. This forum, its associated FAQ and archive search are an Amazing free resource. Chances are that no matter what you plan on doing, a handful of members have already done the same job. And it's even fairly likely that there's a pictorial write-up floating about with step-by-step instructions. But that doesn't mean you should skip out on buying the [[Service Manual|factory service manuals]] ~ there's a LOT of detailed information in those 2 manuals that's not found anywhere else. And yes, that includes the cheap aftermarket knock-offs... There is sometimes information in those that is just blatantly wrong.
--1066-01 Service Manual EX250E 36.95<br>
+[http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Ninja_250_Rider%27s_bookshelf#Maintenance_and_Repair See here] for the manuals needed and their associated part numbers. You can buy the manuals from anywhere that supplies Factory Kawasaki parts. Since this is asked from time to time, there are no legal downloads. It's not on CD, and be wary of the copies on ebay ~ Kawasaki takes its copyright laws seriously.
--1109-65 Service Manual Supplement* EX250F 31.95
-−
-Above are the 2 manuals needed and their associated part numbers. You can buy the manuals from anywhere that supplies Factory Kawasaki parts, such as [http://buykawasaki.com/Default.asp? buykawasaki.com], [http://www.ronayers.com/index.cfm Ron Ayers], [http://www.repairmanual.com/motorcycles/ Repair Manual.com], and your local dealership. The noted prices are full retail. Since this is asked from time to time, there '''are no legal downloads''', it's not on CD and be wary of the copies on ebay ~ Kawasaki takes its copyright laws seriously.
 Now that you have the information available, it's a good idea to thoroughly read and research whatever task you're going to tackle. Know if you will need any consumable parts, like o-rings, crush washers or gaskets, and order those well before you plan on doing the work. Know the [[Torque Values]] of all the bolts you're going to be touching, and you might even want to photocopy the page(s) you'll be using so they're handy for quick reference without smudging up your books. There's Nothing worse than doing some simple service and having to put it all on hold while you look up the next step in the process or wait for a part to be delivered. If you've got all your information together and you're still hesitant, ask if there's anyone in the area that can help ~ there are members all over the place with different levels of mechanical skill... one may be near you and able to help.