How to drain the float bowls - Revision history

Bokonon: /* A light-hearted overview */

2011-02-23T15:32:09Z

A light-hearted overview

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:32, 23 February 2011
Line 6:		Line 6:
	2. Get a Coke can		2. Get a Coke can

	3. Find a Ginsu Steak Knife		3. Find a [http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=abLB7aTmnE4 Ginsu Steak Knife]

	:3a. If you don't have a Ginsu knife, tune in to late-night TV and buy one		:3a. If you don't have a Ginsu knife, tune in to late-night TV and buy one

Bokonon: /* This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures */

2011-02-23T15:27:46Z

This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:27, 23 February 2011
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	[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_6.JPG\|150px]]		[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_6.JPG\|150px]]

	To refill the carbs ~~after~~ you're ~~done~~, just turn the petcock to PRI (prime - if you have it) or ON and crank the engine for a while. If you're just cranking the engine, it'll take several seconds (feels like eternity) for the fuel to drain into the float bowls and get to the level where it can be drawn into the engine.		To refill the carbs when you're ready to ride again, just turn the petcock to PRI (prime - if you have it) or ON and crank the engine for a while. If you're just cranking the engine, it'll take several seconds (feels like eternity) for the fuel to drain into the float bowls and get to the level where it can be drawn into the engine.

	And that's really all there is to it. Make sure to dispose of the gas in a safe, environmentally friendly manner.		And that's really all there is to it. Make sure to dispose of the gas in a safe, environmentally friendly manner.

Bokonon: /* A light-hearted overview */

2011-02-23T15:26:08Z

A light-hearted overview

← Older revision		Revision as of 11:26, 23 February 2011
Line 29:		Line 29:

	10. Repeat for other carb		10. Repeat for other carb

			'''When you're ready to ride again''': Turn the petcock to PRI (prime - if you have it) or ON and crank the engine. It'll take several seconds and feel like eternity to get enough gas into the carbs so the bike can start.

	====This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures====		====This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures====

Bokonon: /* This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures */

2010-08-01T08:14:24Z

This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures

Bokonon: /* This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures */

2010-08-01T08:08:50Z

This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:08, 1 August 2010
Line 31:		Line 31:

	====This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures====		====This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures====

	So, you might ask "Why would you ''want'' to drain the carb float bowls?" It's a good idea to drain the carbs for long term storage (winterizing). It's also the first step if you're going to be removing the carbs for cleaning, but you'd also need to drain them as part of troubleshooting a non-running or poorly running bike... typically a rather ''sudden'' change in running condition, usually right after filling up with gas. This is normally water in the gas, which sinks to the lowest spot possible ~ the carbs.

	First off, the bike under dissection here is a Bandit 400. While not a 250, the work is the same, things look very much the same, and you'd get the same results (meaning this is something that is bike/manufacturer independent... the only requirement is that there are carbs).		First off, the bike under dissection here is a Bandit 400. While not a 250, the work is the same, things look very much the same, and you'd get the same results (meaning this is something that is bike/manufacturer independent... the only requirement is that there are carbs).

Bokonon: /* A light-hearted overview */

2009-09-20T04:12:39Z

A light-hearted overview

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:12, 20 September 2009
Line 18:		Line 18:
	[[Image:drainingfloats2.jpg\|200px]]		[[Image:drainingfloats2.jpg\|200px]]

	:6a. If you can't find the drain screw, go to the [http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_0483/carburetor_parts/carburetor_parts.cfm?man=ka&groupid=3140&parent=3060 Ron Ayers parts fiche], or your (you do have a) service manual (don't you?) for help.		:6a. If you can't find the drain screw, go to the [http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_0483/carburetor_parts/carburetor_parts.cfm?man=ka&groupid=3140&parent=3060 Ron Ayers parts fiche], our [[EX250 parts diagrams\|parts diagrams]], or your (you do have a) service manual (don't you?) for help.

	7. The screw is actually a tap		7. The screw is actually a tap
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	9. Hopefully you turned the screw on the carb above the Coke can. Otherwise, your engine is covered in gasoline		9. Hopefully you turned the screw on the carb above the Coke can. Otherwise, your engine is covered in gasoline

	10. Repeat for other carb		10. Repeat for other carb

	====This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures====		====This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures====

Bokonon at 05:36, 23 August 2009

2009-08-23T05:36:59Z

Bokonon at 08:44, 3 June 2007

2007-06-03T08:44:57Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:44, 3 June 2007
Line 15:		Line 15:

	6. Locate the brass screw under the bottom of the carb<br>		6. Locate the brass screw under the bottom of the carb<br>
	:Shown here are the Keihin carbs from a ~~ninja~~ 250		:Shown here are the Keihin carbs from a Ninja 250

	[[Image:drainingfloats2.jpg\|200px]]		[[Image:drainingfloats2.jpg\|200px]]

Bokonon at 05:48, 5 May 2007

2007-05-05T05:48:34Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:48, 5 May 2007
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	5. Stick the can bottom under one carb		5. Stick the can bottom under one carb

	6. Locate the brass screw under the bottom of the carb		6. Locate the brass screw under the bottom of the carb<br>
			:Shown here are the Keihin carbs from a ninja 250

			[[Image:drainingfloats2.jpg\|200px]]

	:6a. If you can't find the drain screw, go to the [http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_0483/carburetor_parts/carburetor_parts.cfm?man=ka&groupid=3140&parent=3060 Ron Ayers parts fiche], or your (you do have a) service manual (don't you?) for help.		:6a. If you can't find the drain screw, go to the [http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_0483/carburetor_parts/carburetor_parts.cfm?man=ka&groupid=3140&parent=3060 Ron Ayers parts fiche], or your (you do have a) service manual (don't you?) for help.
Line 21:		Line 24:

	8. Turn the tap to drain the float bowl		8. Turn the tap to drain the float bowl

			[[Image:drainingfloats1.jpg\|200px]]

	9. Hopefully you turned the screw on the carb above the Coke can. Otherwise, your engine is covered in gasoline		9. Hopefully you turned the screw on the carb above the Coke can. Otherwise, your engine is covered in gasoline

Bokonon at 17:28, 3 June 2006

2006-06-03T17:28:10Z

New page

[[Category:Intake]]
====A light-hearted overview====

1. Grab a screwdriver (3mm Allen or flat-tipped, depending on bike age)

2. Get a Coke can

3. Find a Ginsu Steak Knife

:3a. If you don't have a Ginsu knife, tune in to late-night TV and buy one

4. Use the Ginsu knife to cut the Coke can 1/3 of the way from the bottom. Discard the top.

5. Stick the can bottom under one carb

6. Locate the brass screw under the bottom of the carb

:6a. If you can't find the drain screw, go to the [http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/400_0483/carburetor_parts/carburetor_parts.cfm?man=ka&groupid=3140&parent=3060 Ron Ayers parts fiche], or your (you do have a) service manual (don't you?) for help.

7. The screw is actually a tap

8. Turn the tap to drain the float bowl

9. Hopefully you turned the screw on the carb above the Coke can. Otherwise, your engine is covered in gasoline

10. Repeat for other carb

====This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures====

So, you might ask why would you Want to drain the carb float bowls? It's a good idea to drain the carbs for long term storage (winterizing). It's also the first step if you're going to be removing the carbs for cleaning, but you'd also need to drain them as part of troubleshooting a non-running, or poorly running bike... typically a rather ''Sudden'' change in running condition, usually right after filling up with gas. This is Normally water in the gas, which sinks to the lowest spot possible ~ the carbs.

First off, the bike under dissection here is a Bandit 400. While not a 250, the work is the same, things look very much the same and you'd get the same results (meaning this is something that is bike/manufacturer independent... the only requirement is that there are carbs).

Tools needed (in this case) are a phillips #2 screwdriver, glass jar and hose/funnel. The 250 would need a 3mm allen instead of a phillips #2 screwdriver.

[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_1.JPG|150px]]

In this next picture, the large screwdriver is pointing to the drain screw. It's always facing one side of the bike (not down, or up or forward... )

[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_2.JPG|150px]]

This photo shows the drain nipple, where the gas actually comes out.

[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_3.JPG|150px]]

The kind of shiny strip in this photo is just a channel of tin-foil used to direct the gas into the glass jar. Normal procedure uses some hose, but you can make do with what you have, should all your hose have been discarded in a recent move, and you don't feel like taking a trip to an auto parts store. Another option is to cut a pop/soda/coke can in half and place it directly under the drain. Anyway, you just open (counter clockwise, lefty loosey) the drain screw, and fuel will drain out the nipple. You DO want to make sure that the tank petcock is turned off (if there is an off), clamped, or the vacuum system is working, or else you'll drain fuel from the tank, through the carbs, till the tank is empty. Pretty simple:

[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_4.JPG|150px]]

Here's the jar of gas... yes, 10 oz. came out of the carbs (Note: 4-carb system. YMMV). It's that dark green because the PO (previous owner) didn't drain them, and the gas has sat in the carbs long enough that the corroding brass jets have turned the gas this dark green. Not a carb-cleaning to look forward to.

[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_5.JPG|150px]]

And finally, some clean water was added to the gas so you can see the separation. Normally, when you get water in the gas at a station, it's this dark, dirty, murky, nasty looking water... very much NOT clean like this. But if you have Any water in the float bowls, it can cause poor running or no running at all.

[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_6.JPG|150px]]

After you're done, to refill the carbs, just turn the petcock to PRI or prime (if you have it), or ON and crank the engine for a while. If you're just cranking the engine, it'll take Several seconds (feels like eternity) for the fuel to drain into the float bowls and get to the level where it can be drawn into the engine.

And that's really all there is to it. Make sure to dispose of the gas in a safe, environmentally friendly manner.

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:14, 1 August 2010
Line 34:		Line 34:
	First off, the bike under dissection here is a Bandit 400. While not a 250, the work is the same, things look very much the same, and you'd get the same results (meaning this is something that is bike/manufacturer independent... the only requirement is that there are carbs).		First off, the bike under dissection here is a Bandit 400. While not a 250, the work is the same, things look very much the same, and you'd get the same results (meaning this is something that is bike/manufacturer independent... the only requirement is that there are carbs).

	Tools needed (in this case) are a ~~Phillips~~ #2 screwdriver, a glass jar, and a hose/funnel. The 250 would need a 3mm allen instead of a phillips #2 screwdriver.		Tools needed (in this case) are a phillips #2 screwdriver, a glass jar, and a hose/funnel. The 250 would need a 3mm allen instead of a phillips #2 screwdriver.

	[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_1.JPG\|150px]]		[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_1.JPG\|150px]]
Line 46:		Line 46:
	[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_3.JPG\|150px]]		[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_3.JPG\|150px]]

	The kind of shiny strip in this photo is just a channel of tin-foil used to direct the gas into the glass jar. Normal procedure uses some hose, but you can make do with what you have, should all your hose have been discarded in a recent move and you don't feel like taking a trip to an auto parts store~~. Another option is to cut a pop/soda/Coke can in half with a Ginsu knife and place it directly under the drain~~. Anyway, you just open (counter clockwise, lefty loosey) the drain screw, and fuel will drain out the nipple. You DO want to make sure that the tank petcock is turned off (if there is an off), clamped, or the vacuum system is working, or else you'll drain fuel from the tank, through the carbs, ~~till~~ the tank is empty. Pretty simple:		The kind of shiny strip in this photo is just a channel of tin-foil used to direct the gas into the glass jar. Normal procedure uses some hose, but you can make do with what you have, should all your hose have been discarded in a recent move and you don't feel like taking a trip to an auto parts store. Anyway, you just open (counter clockwise, lefty loosey) the drain screw, and fuel will drain out the nipple. You DO want to make sure that the tank petcock is turned off (if there is an off), clamped, or the vacuum system is working, or else you'll drain fuel from the tank, through the carbs, until the tank is empty. Pretty simple:

	[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_4.JPG\|150px]]		[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_4.JPG\|150px]]
Line 54:		Line 54:
	[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_5.JPG\|150px]]		[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_5.JPG\|150px]]

	And finally, some clean water was added to the gas so you can see the separation. Normally, when you get water in the gas at a station, it's this dark, dirty, murky, nasty looking water... very much NOT clean like this. But if you have any water in the float bowls, it can cause poor running or no running at all.		And finally, some clean water was added to the gas so you can see the separation. Normally, when you get water in the gas at a station it's this dark, dirty, murky, nasty looking water... very much NOT clean like this. But if you have any water in the float bowls, it can cause poor running or no running at all.

	[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_6.JPG\|150px]]		[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_6.JPG\|150px]]

	~~After~~ you're done~~, to refill the carbs~~, just turn the petcock to PRI or prime (if you have it) or ON and crank the engine for a while. If you're just cranking the engine, it'll take several seconds (feels like eternity) for the fuel to drain into the float bowls and get to the level where it can be drawn into the engine.		To refill the carbs after you're done, just turn the petcock to PRI (prime - if you have it) or ON and crank the engine for a while. If you're just cranking the engine, it'll take several seconds (feels like eternity) for the fuel to drain into the float bowls and get to the level where it can be drawn into the engine.

	And that's really all there is to it. Make sure to dispose of the gas in a safe, environmentally friendly manner.		And that's really all there is to it. Make sure to dispose of the gas in a safe, environmentally friendly manner.

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:36, 23 August 2009
Line 14:		Line 14:
	5. Stick the can bottom under one carb		5. Stick the can bottom under one carb

	6. Locate the brass screw under the bottom of the carb~~<br>~~		6. Locate the brass screw under the bottom of the carb
	~~:Shown here are the Keihin carbs from a Ninja 250~~

	[[Image:drainingfloats2.jpg\|200px]]		[[Image:drainingfloats2.jpg\|200px]]
Line 33:		Line 32:
	====This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures====		====This one isn't quite so sarcastic, but it has good pictures====

	So, you might ask ~~why~~ would you ~~Want~~ to drain the carb float bowls? It's a good idea to drain the carbs for long term storage (winterizing). It's also the first step if you're going to be removing the carbs for cleaning, but you'd also need to drain them as part of troubleshooting a non-running, or poorly running bike... typically a rather ''~~Sudden~~'' change in running condition, usually right after filling up with gas. This is ~~Normally~~ water in the gas, which sinks to the lowest spot possible ~ the carbs.		So, you might ask "Why would you ''want'' to drain the carb float bowls?" It's a good idea to drain the carbs for long term storage (winterizing). It's also the first step if you're going to be removing the carbs for cleaning, but you'd also need to drain them as part of troubleshooting a non-running or poorly running bike... typically a rather ''sudden'' change in running condition, usually right after filling up with gas. This is normally water in the gas, which sinks to the lowest spot possible ~ the carbs.

	First off, the bike under dissection here is a Bandit 400. While not a 250, the work is the same, things look very much the same and you'd get the same results (meaning this is something that is bike/manufacturer independent... the only requirement is that there are carbs).		First off, the bike under dissection here is a Bandit 400. While not a 250, the work is the same, things look very much the same, and you'd get the same results (meaning this is something that is bike/manufacturer independent... the only requirement is that there are carbs).

	Tools needed (in this case) are a ~~phillips~~ #2 screwdriver, glass jar and hose/funnel. The 250 would need a 3mm allen instead of a phillips #2 screwdriver.		Tools needed (in this case) are a Phillips #2 screwdriver, a glass jar, and a hose/funnel. The 250 would need a 3mm allen instead of a phillips #2 screwdriver.

	[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_1.JPG\|150px]]		[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_1.JPG\|150px]]
Line 49:		Line 48:
	[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_3.JPG\|150px]]		[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_3.JPG\|150px]]

	The kind of shiny strip in this photo is just a channel of tin-foil used to direct the gas into the glass jar. Normal procedure uses some hose, but you can make do with what you have, should all your hose have been discarded in a recent move, and you don't feel like taking a trip to an auto parts store. Another option is to cut a pop/soda/~~coke~~ can in half and place it directly under the drain. Anyway, you just open (counter clockwise, lefty loosey) the drain screw, and fuel will drain out the nipple. You DO want to make sure that the tank petcock is turned off (if there is an off), clamped, or the vacuum system is working, or else you'll drain fuel from the tank, through the carbs, till the tank is empty. Pretty simple:		The kind of shiny strip in this photo is just a channel of tin-foil used to direct the gas into the glass jar. Normal procedure uses some hose, but you can make do with what you have, should all your hose have been discarded in a recent move and you don't feel like taking a trip to an auto parts store. Another option is to cut a pop/soda/Coke can in half with a Ginsu knife and place it directly under the drain. Anyway, you just open (counter clockwise, lefty loosey) the drain screw, and fuel will drain out the nipple. You DO want to make sure that the tank petcock is turned off (if there is an off), clamped, or the vacuum system is working, or else you'll drain fuel from the tank, through the carbs, till the tank is empty. Pretty simple:

	[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_4.JPG\|150px]]		[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_4.JPG\|150px]]

	Here's the jar of gas... yes, 10 oz. came out of the carbs (Note: 4-carb system. YMMV). It's that dark green because the ~~PO (~~previous owner) didn't drain them, and the gas ~~has~~ sat in the carbs long enough that the corroding brass jets ~~have~~ turned the gas this dark green. Not a carb-cleaning to look forward to.		Here's the jar of gas... yes, 10 oz. came out of the carbs (Note: 4-carb system - YMMV). It's that dark green because the previous owner didn't drain them and the gas sat in the carbs long enough that the corroding brass jets turned the gas this dark green. Not a carb-cleaning to look forward to.

	[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_5.JPG\|150px]]		[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_5.JPG\|150px]]

	And finally, some clean water was added to the gas so you can see the separation. Normally, when you get water in the gas at a station, it's this dark, dirty, murky, nasty looking water... very much NOT clean like this. But if you have ~~Any~~ water in the float bowls, it can cause poor running or no running at all.		And finally, some clean water was added to the gas so you can see the separation. Normally, when you get water in the gas at a station, it's this dark, dirty, murky, nasty looking water... very much NOT clean like this. But if you have any water in the float bowls, it can cause poor running or no running at all.

	[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_6.JPG\|150px]]		[[Image:Draining_carb_bowl_6.JPG\|150px]]

	After you're done, to refill the carbs, just turn the petcock to PRI or prime (if you have it), or ON and crank the engine for a while. If you're just cranking the engine, it'll take ~~Several~~ seconds (feels like eternity) for the fuel to drain into the float bowls and get to the level where it can be drawn into the engine.		After you're done, to refill the carbs, just turn the petcock to PRI or prime (if you have it) or ON and crank the engine for a while. If you're just cranking the engine, it'll take several seconds (feels like eternity) for the fuel to drain into the float bowls and get to the level where it can be drawn into the engine.

	And that's really all there is to it. Make sure to dispose of the gas in a safe, environmentally friendly manner.		And that's really all there is to it. Make sure to dispose of the gas in a safe, environmentally friendly manner.