How to shim the cush drive - Revision history

Bokonon at 14:20, 24 July 2010

2010-07-24T14:20:44Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:20, 24 July 2010
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	The rear sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel; it "floats", with a piece of hard rubber taking up the slack. If there is too much slack, you'll feel excessive drive lash when applying and releasing throttle. Adding shims takes up some free play and reduces the lash.		The rear sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel; it "floats", with a piece of hard rubber taking up the slack. If there is too much slack, you'll feel excessive drive lash when applying and releasing throttle. Adding shims takes up some free play and reduces the lash.

	A new cush drive is $42 plus S&H at Ron Ayers, but ~~reports state that~~ even a new one can have more play than desired.		A new cush drive is $42 plus S&H at Ron Ayers, but even a new one can have more play than desired.

	With the rear wheel [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|off the bike]] and properly supported (put it up on some 2x4s or an old 13" auto tire to avoid damaging the brake rotor on the other side) wiggle the sprocket carrier off. If you've never taken it off, gunk may be holding it on. Just twist and wiggle, and it'll come off.		With the rear wheel [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|off the bike]] and properly supported (put it up on some 2x4s or an old 13" auto tire to avoid damaging the brake rotor on the other side) wiggle the sprocket carrier off. If you've never taken it off, gunk may be holding it on. Just twist and wiggle, and it'll come off.
Line 18:		Line 18:
	[[Image:Cush drive 3.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Cush drive 3.jpg\|150px]]

	Put the sprocket carrier back in place (it may be a little tight now; simply press and wiggle) and reinstall the wheel. You should notice a much smoother ride. Members report that the difference is noticeable. Acceleration and deceleration are a lot smoother and not as "jerky." It's a good modification to do, and ~~it's~~ very easy to perform.		Put the sprocket carrier back in place (it may be a little tight now; simply press and wiggle) and reinstall the wheel. You should notice a much smoother ride. Members report that the difference is noticeable. Acceleration and deceleration are a lot smoother and not as "jerky." It's a good modification to do and very easy to perform.

Bokonon at 05:17, 4 July 2009

2009-07-04T05:17:56Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:17, 4 July 2009
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	Now, find a suitable material for the shims. Margarine tub lids, milk bottles, or anything similar should work pretty well. Cut out 12 rectangles, each roughly 5/8" x 1 1/8". Depending on how much slack you have, start out with one or (usually) two shims in each crevice, for a total of 24. Some slack may come back later; then you can add 12 more.		Now, find a suitable material for the shims. Margarine tub lids, milk bottles, or anything similar should work pretty well. Cut out 12 rectangles, each roughly 5/8" x 1 1/8". Depending on how much slack you have, start out with one or (usually) two shims in each crevice, for a total of 24. Some slack may come back later; then you can add 12 more.

	~~Another material that works great is silicone cutting board. Get it at~~ [~~http~~:~~//www~~.~~bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?order_num=-1&SKU=11289967&RN=108 Bed Bath and Beyond~~]~~; $4 for two boards. It's quite a bit thicker than milk jug material, but still thin enough to cut with scissors.~~		[[Image:Cush drive 2.jpg\|150px]]

	~~[[Image:Cush drive 2~~.~~jpg\|150px]]~~		Another material that works great is silicone cutting board. Look at a kitchen supply store; should be around $5. It's quite a bit thicker than milk jug material, but still thin enough to cut with scissors.

	Now simply insert a piece into each of the 12 crevices between rubber and steel.		Now simply insert a piece into each of the 12 crevices between rubber and steel.

Bokonon at 05:13, 4 July 2009

2009-07-04T05:13:27Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:13, 4 July 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
	[[Category:Final Drive]]		[[Category:Final Drive]]
	The sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel; it "floats" with a piece of hard rubber taking up the slack. If there is too much slack, you'll feel excessive drive lash when applying and releasing throttle. Adding shims takes up some free play and reduces the lash.		The rear sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel; it "floats", with a piece of hard rubber taking up the slack. If there is too much slack, you'll feel excessive drive lash when applying and releasing throttle. Adding shims takes up some free play and reduces the lash.

	A new cush drive is $42 plus S&H at Ron Ayers, but reports state that even a new one can have more play than desired.		A new cush drive is $42 plus S&H at Ron Ayers, but reports state that even a new one can have more play than desired.

	With the rear wheel [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|off the bike]] and ~~[[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing\|~~properly supported]] (~~be mindful of~~ the brake rotor on the other side) wiggle the sprocket carrier off. If you've never taken it off, gunk may be holding it on. Just twist and wiggle, and it'll come off.		With the rear wheel [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|off the bike]] and properly supported (put it up on some 2x4s or an old 13" auto tire to avoid damaging the brake rotor on the other side) wiggle the sprocket carrier off. If you've never taken it off, gunk may be holding it on. Just twist and wiggle, and it'll come off.

	[[Image:Cush drive 1.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Cush drive 1.jpg\|150px]]

	Now, find a suitable material for the shims. Margarine tub lids, milk bottles, or anything similar should work pretty well. Cut out 12 rectangles, each roughly 5/8" x 1 1/8". Depending on how much slack you have, start out with one or (usually) two shims in each crevice, for a total of 24. Some slack may come back later; then you can add 12 more~~, for a total of 36, or 3 at each crevice~~.		Now, find a suitable material for the shims. Margarine tub lids, milk bottles, or anything similar should work pretty well. Cut out 12 rectangles, each roughly 5/8" x 1 1/8". Depending on how much slack you have, start out with one or (usually) two shims in each crevice, for a total of 24. Some slack may come back later; then you can add 12 more.

	Another material that works great is silicone cutting board. Get it at [http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?order_num=-1&SKU=11289967&RN=108 Bed Bath and Beyond]; $4 for two boards. It's quite a bit thicker than milk jug material, but still thin enough to cut with scissors.		Another material that works great is silicone cutting board. Get it at [http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?order_num=-1&SKU=11289967&RN=108 Bed Bath and Beyond]; $4 for two boards. It's quite a bit thicker than milk jug material, but still thin enough to cut with scissors.

Bokonon at 19:18, 14 June 2009

2009-06-14T19:18:22Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 15:18, 14 June 2009
Line 2:		Line 2:
	The sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel; it "floats" with a piece of hard rubber taking up the slack. If there is too much slack, you'll feel excessive drive lash when applying and releasing throttle. Adding shims takes up some free play and reduces the lash.		The sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel; it "floats" with a piece of hard rubber taking up the slack. If there is too much slack, you'll feel excessive drive lash when applying and releasing throttle. Adding shims takes up some free play and reduces the lash.

	A new cush drive is $42 plus S&H at Ron Ayers.		A new cush drive is $42 plus S&H at Ron Ayers, but reports state that even a new one can have more play than desired.

	With the rear wheel [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|off the bike]] and [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing\|properly supported]] (be mindful of the brake rotor on the other side) wiggle the sprocket carrier off. If you've never taken it off, gunk may be holding it on. Just twist and wiggle, and it'll come off.		With the rear wheel [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|off the bike]] and [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing\|properly supported]] (be mindful of the brake rotor on the other side) wiggle the sprocket carrier off. If you've never taken it off, gunk may be holding it on. Just twist and wiggle, and it'll come off.

Bokonon at 16:16, 14 June 2009

2009-06-14T16:16:56Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 12:16, 14 June 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
	[[Category:Final Drive]]		[[Category:Final Drive]]
	The sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel; it "floats" with a piece of hard rubber taking up the slack. If there is too much slack, you'll feel excessive drive lash when applying and releasing throttle. Adding shims takes up some free play and reduces the lash.		The sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel; it "floats" with a piece of hard rubber taking up the slack. If there is too much slack, you'll feel excessive drive lash when applying and releasing throttle. Adding shims takes up some free play and reduces the lash.

			A new cush drive is $42 plus S&H at Ron Ayers.

	With the rear wheel [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|off the bike]] and [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing\|properly supported]] (be mindful of the brake rotor on the other side) wiggle the sprocket carrier off. If you've never taken it off, gunk may be holding it on. Just twist and wiggle, and it'll come off.		With the rear wheel [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|off the bike]] and [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing\|properly supported]] (be mindful of the brake rotor on the other side) wiggle the sprocket carrier off. If you've never taken it off, gunk may be holding it on. Just twist and wiggle, and it'll come off.

Bokonon at 14:12, 3 May 2009

2009-05-03T14:12:57Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:12, 3 May 2009
Line 2:		Line 2:
	The sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel; it "floats" with a piece of hard rubber taking up the slack. If there is too much slack, you'll feel excessive drive lash when applying and releasing throttle. Adding shims takes up some free play and reduces the lash.		The sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel; it "floats" with a piece of hard rubber taking up the slack. If there is too much slack, you'll feel excessive drive lash when applying and releasing throttle. Adding shims takes up some free play and reduces the lash.

	With the rear wheel off the bike and properly supported (be mindful of the brake rotor on the other side) wiggle the sprocket carrier off. If you've never taken it off, gunk may be holding it on. Just twist and wiggle, and it'll come off.		With the rear wheel [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel\|off the bike]] and [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing\|properly supported]] (be mindful of the brake rotor on the other side) wiggle the sprocket carrier off. If you've never taken it off, gunk may be holding it on. Just twist and wiggle, and it'll come off.

	[[Image:Cush drive 1.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Cush drive 1.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon at 06:38, 3 June 2007

2007-06-03T06:38:21Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:38, 3 June 2007
Line 7:		Line 7:

	Now, find a suitable material for the shims. Margarine tub lids, milk bottles, or anything similar should work pretty well. Cut out 12 rectangles, each roughly 5/8" x 1 1/8". Depending on how much slack you have, start out with one or (usually) two shims in each crevice, for a total of 24. Some slack may come back later; then you can add 12 more, for a total of 36, or 3 at each crevice.		Now, find a suitable material for the shims. Margarine tub lids, milk bottles, or anything similar should work pretty well. Cut out 12 rectangles, each roughly 5/8" x 1 1/8". Depending on how much slack you have, start out with one or (usually) two shims in each crevice, for a total of 24. Some slack may come back later; then you can add 12 more, for a total of 36, or 3 at each crevice.

			Another material that works great is silicone cutting board. Get it at [http://www.bedbathandbeyond.com/product.asp?order_num=-1&SKU=11289967&RN=108 Bed Bath and Beyond]; $4 for two boards. It's quite a bit thicker than milk jug material, but still thin enough to cut with scissors.

	[[Image:Cush drive 2.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Cush drive 2.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon at 01:00, 25 January 2007

2007-01-25T01:00:47Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:00, 24 January 2007
Line 6:		Line 6:
	[[Image:Cush drive 1.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Cush drive 1.jpg\|150px]]

	Now, find a suitable material for the shims. ~~I use margarine~~ tub lids~~; Jeb has used~~ milk bottles~~. Anything~~ similar should work pretty well. Cut out 12 rectangles, each roughly 5/8" x 1 1/8". ~~When I first did it~~, ~~I used~~ two in each crevice, for a total of 24. ~~Since then, some~~ slack ~~has~~ come back~~, so I added~~ 12 more, for a total of 36, or 3 at each crevice.		Now, find a suitable material for the shims. Margarine tub lids, milk bottles, or anything similar should work pretty well. Cut out 12 rectangles, each roughly 5/8" x 1 1/8". Depending on how much slack you have, start out with one or (usually) two shims in each crevice, for a total of 24. Some slack may come back later; then you can add 12 more, for a total of 36, or 3 at each crevice.

	[[Image:Cush drive 2.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Cush drive 2.jpg\|150px]]
Line 14:		Line 14:
	[[Image:Cush drive 3.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Cush drive 3.jpg\|150px]]

	Put the sprocket carrier back in place (it may be a little tight now; simply press and wiggle) and reinstall the wheel. You should notice a much smoother ride.		Put the sprocket carrier back in place (it may be a little tight now; simply press and wiggle) and reinstall the wheel. You should notice a much smoother ride. Members report that the difference is noticeable. Acceleration and deceleration are a lot smoother and not as "jerky." It's a good modification to do, and it's very easy to perform.

Bokonon at 17:45, 30 May 2006

2006-05-30T17:45:54Z

New page

[[Category:Final Drive]]
The sprocket carrier is not rigidly coupled to the rear wheel; it "floats" with a piece of hard rubber taking up the slack. If there is too much slack, you'll feel excessive drive lash when applying and releasing throttle. Adding shims takes up some free play and reduces the lash.

With the rear wheel off the bike and properly supported (be mindful of the brake rotor on the other side) wiggle the sprocket carrier off. If you've never taken it off, gunk may be holding it on. Just twist and wiggle, and it'll come off.

[[Image:Cush drive 1.jpg|150px]]

Now, find a suitable material for the shims. I use margarine tub lids; Jeb has used milk bottles. Anything similar should work pretty well. Cut out 12 rectangles, each roughly 5/8" x 1 1/8". When I first did it, I used two in each crevice, for a total of 24. Since then, some slack has come back, so I added 12 more, for a total of 36, or 3 at each crevice.

[[Image:Cush drive 2.jpg|150px]]

Now simply insert a piece into each of the 12 crevices between rubber and steel.

[[Image:Cush drive 3.jpg|150px]]

Put the sprocket carrier back in place (it may be a little tight now; simply press and wiggle) and reinstall the wheel. You should notice a much smoother ride.