Installing a voltmeter - Revision history

Bokonon: /* Wiring */

2011-02-14T20:03:58Z

Wiring

← Older revision		Revision as of 16:03, 14 February 2011
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	[[image:IMGP6201-2.jpg\|110px]]		[[image:IMGP6201-2.jpg\|110px]]

	One ~~review~~ said that the lighting was hard to read at night, but most have found that it works ~~pretty~~ well. It’s not super bright, but ~~it’s still easy~~ enough to ~~read and isn't annoying;~~ slightly dimmer than the dash. The three LEDs are red, amber, and green, to indicate less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added.		====Reading the gauges====

			One reviewer said that the lighting was hard to read at night, but most have found that it works 'well enough'. It’s not super bright; you shouldn't have to stare at it to read it, but it takes slightly more than a glance when it's dark. Not enough to make for dangerous riding, but the readout is slightly dimmer than the dash.

			The three LEDs are red, amber, and green, to indicate less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added. If you're running down the road and get anything other than green, it's time to start shutting electrical stuff off or finding out what your problem is. The voltmeter readout is more important than the LEDs.

	This meter is not waterproof, but one of our members from the Pacific Northwest has had one on his Concours for years, riding year-round, rain and all. You just need to mount it somewhat out of the way and under cover, not out in the direct rain. You’ll probably want to cover it if you wash your bike.		This meter is not waterproof, but one of our members from the Pacific Northwest has had one on his Concours for years, riding year-round, rain and all. You just need to mount it somewhat out of the way and under cover, not out in the direct rain. You’ll probably want to cover it if you wash your bike.

Bokonon: /* Wiring */

2011-02-12T05:26:05Z

Wiring

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:26, 12 February 2011
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	You can zip tie the temperature probe to the cross bar, or anywhere else that keeps it out of direct sunlight.		You can zip tie the temperature probe to the cross bar, or anywhere else that keeps it out of direct sunlight.

	[[image:IMGP6201-2.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[image:IMGP6201-2.jpg\|110px]]

	One review said that the lighting was hard to read at night, but most have found that it works pretty well. It’s not super bright, but it’s still easy enough to read and isn't annoying; slightly dimmer than the dash. The three LEDs are red, amber, and green, to indicate less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added.		One review said that the lighting was hard to read at night, but most have found that it works pretty well. It’s not super bright, but it’s still easy enough to read and isn't annoying; slightly dimmer than the dash. The three LEDs are red, amber, and green, to indicate less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added.

Bokonon: /* Show Chrome 5-function meter */

2011-02-12T05:13:47Z

Show Chrome 5-function meter

@@ Line 51: / Line 51: @@
 ==Show Chrome 5-function meter==
-The five-function meter from [http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics CA Sport Touring] (and many other places - search) is larger than the Datel one. It mounts with Velcro. It not only gives you the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has a pickup in the case and another on a wire suitable for taping to the windscreen with a couple of strips of electrical tape or a bit of RTV under the suction cup. The temp gauge is nice to have. If you run heated accessories you can readily tell by the voltage whether the battery is charging (13v or so) or discharging (11.4v) or everything is happy, happy, happy (14.7v).
+The five-function meter from [http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics CA Sport Touring] (and many other places - search) is larger than the Datel one. This unit mounts with Velcro. It gives you not only the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has settings for temp readings in F or C. It also has a max temperature hold feature with a reset button. The voltmeter display is pretty straightforward and has a 3-color LED low battery alarm. The clock can be set to 12 or 24-hour format. You can also switch to a stopwatch/lap timer.
-You can mount it between the gauge cluster and the windscreen using a couple of small L-brackets and double-stick tape - - no drilling or anything permanent. Put tape around the corners so it won't scratch the inside of the windscreen. This offers some rain protection in case the bike gets left out in the rain. This unit '''is not''' waterproof. It hooks up three places: ground & battery (front accessory leads for these two) and a switched power lead, such as a tap into the horn or instrument lighting wiring. The switched lead mainly only activates the LEDs and back lighting. The display is on constantly, as is usual for LCDs.
+There are two temperature sensors. One of them is internal to the unit and (think car/truck) is expected to be your inside vehicle temperature reading. The other sensor is on the end of a long wire and intended to be your outside vehicle temperature reading.
-The nighttime illumination is not that good, but it gives you three LEDs: red, amber, and green, to indicate less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added. You can't read the display well at night, and the LEDs are invisible in the daylight, so both display methods have merit.
+[[image: IMGP6122.JPG|150px]]
-[[image:IMG_7082.jpg|250px]]
+====Mounting bracket====

Bokonon at 03:58, 11 February 2011

2011-02-11T03:58:28Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:58, 10 February 2011
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	There are many different kinds of gauges available, but if you ask anyone who ever drove an old American car, the digital ones are much easier to use. Your local auto parts store may have what you need. You can also look at [http://www.jcwhitney.com/Voltmeter-Gauges/600002127.jcw JC Whitney], or search the internet. The first part of this article shows a Datel voltmeter. Later we'll show one from CA Sport Touring, which doesn't require you to cut into your fairings and is about half the cost.		There are many different kinds of gauges available, but if you ask anyone who ever drove an old American car, the digital ones are much easier to use. Your local auto parts store may have what you need. You can also look at [http://www.jcwhitney.com/Voltmeter-Gauges/600002127.jcw JC Whitney], or search the internet. The first part of this article shows a Datel voltmeter. Later we'll show one from CA Sport Touring, which doesn't require you to cut into your fairings and is about half the cost.

	====[http://www.digitalmeter.com/ Datel voltmeter]====		==[http://www.digitalmeter.com/ Datel voltmeter]==

	The first step with the installation of your meter is to find a suitable location. Put everything on your bike that you usually carry, such as a tank bag, and find a good place. Take careful measurements, because '''you only get one chance to not screw up your fairing.''' Ensure that you can see the voltmeter with a quick glance. On this Ninja 650R the meter was mounted low and to the left, but on the 250, due to a different tank bag, it was determined that up near the windscreen was better.		The first step with the installation of your meter is to find a suitable location. Put everything on your bike that you usually carry, such as a tank bag, and find a good place. Take careful measurements, because '''you only get one chance to not screw up your fairing.''' Ensure that you can see the voltmeter with a quick glance. On this Ninja 650R the meter was mounted low and to the left, but on the 250, due to a different tank bag, it was determined that up near the windscreen was better.
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	[[Image:volt12.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:volt12.jpg\|150px]]

	====Show Chrome 5-function meter====		==Show Chrome 5-function meter==

	The five-function meter from [http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics CA Sport Touring] (and many other places - search) is larger than the Datel one. It mounts with Velcro. It not only gives you the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has a pickup in the case and another on a wire suitable for taping to the windscreen with a couple of strips of electrical tape or a bit of RTV under the suction cup. The temp gauge is nice to have. If you run heated accessories you can readily tell by the voltage whether the battery is charging (13v or so) or discharging (11.4v) or everything is happy, happy, happy (14.7v).		The five-function meter from [http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics CA Sport Touring] (and many other places - search) is larger than the Datel one. It mounts with Velcro. It not only gives you the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has a pickup in the case and another on a wire suitable for taping to the windscreen with a couple of strips of electrical tape or a bit of RTV under the suction cup. The temp gauge is nice to have. If you run heated accessories you can readily tell by the voltage whether the battery is charging (13v or so) or discharging (11.4v) or everything is happy, happy, happy (14.7v).

Bokonon at 03:57, 11 February 2011

2011-02-11T03:57:54Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 23:57, 10 February 2011
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	[[Category:Electrical & Lighting]]		[[Category:Electrical & Lighting]]
			__TOC__
	A modification that will give you instant feedback on the status of your battery and charging system is a voltmeter. This is especially handy if you are running any accessories, as the EX250 doesn't have a lot of [[Alternator Information\|electrical headroom]].		A modification that will give you instant feedback on the status of your battery and charging system is a voltmeter. This is especially handy if you are running any accessories, as the EX250 doesn't have a lot of [[Alternator Information\|electrical headroom]].

Bokonon: /* Show Chrome 5-function meter */

2011-01-21T05:27:37Z

Show Chrome 5-function meter

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:27, 21 January 2011
Line 50:		Line 50:
	====Show Chrome 5-function meter====		====Show Chrome 5-function meter====

	The five-function meter from [[http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics CA Sport Touring] (and many other places - search) is larger than the Datel one. It mounts with Velcro. It not only gives you the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has a pickup in the case and another on a wire suitable for taping to the windscreen with a couple of strips of electrical tape or a bit of RTV under the suction cup. The temp gauge is nice to have. If you run heated accessories you can readily tell by the voltage whether the battery is charging (13v or so) or discharging (11.4v) or everything is happy, happy, happy (14.7v).		The five-function meter from [http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics CA Sport Touring] (and many other places - search) is larger than the Datel one. It mounts with Velcro. It not only gives you the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has a pickup in the case and another on a wire suitable for taping to the windscreen with a couple of strips of electrical tape or a bit of RTV under the suction cup. The temp gauge is nice to have. If you run heated accessories you can readily tell by the voltage whether the battery is charging (13v or so) or discharging (11.4v) or everything is happy, happy, happy (14.7v).

	You can mount it between the gauge cluster and the windscreen using a couple of small L-brackets and double-stick tape - - no drilling or anything permanent. Put tape around the corners so it won't scratch the inside of the windscreen. This offers some rain protection in case the bike gets left out in the rain. This unit '''is not''' waterproof. It hooks up three places: ground & battery (front accessory leads for these two) and a switched power lead, such as a tap into the horn or instrument lighting wiring. The switched lead mainly only activates the LEDs and back lighting. The display is on constantly, as is usual for LCDs.		You can mount it between the gauge cluster and the windscreen using a couple of small L-brackets and double-stick tape - - no drilling or anything permanent. Put tape around the corners so it won't scratch the inside of the windscreen. This offers some rain protection in case the bike gets left out in the rain. This unit '''is not''' waterproof. It hooks up three places: ground & battery (front accessory leads for these two) and a switched power lead, such as a tap into the horn or instrument lighting wiring. The switched lead mainly only activates the LEDs and back lighting. The display is on constantly, as is usual for LCDs.

Bokonon: /* CA Sport Touring 5-function meter */

2011-01-21T05:27:17Z

CA Sport Touring 5-function meter

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:27, 21 January 2011
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	[[Image:volt12.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:volt12.jpg\|150px]]

	====~~CA Sport Touring [http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics~~ 5-function meter]====		====Show Chrome 5-function meter====

	The five-function meter from CA Sport Touring is larger than the Datel one. It mounts with Velcro. It not only gives you the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has a pickup in the case and another on a wire suitable for taping to the windscreen with a couple of strips of electrical tape, or a bit of RTV under the suction cup. The temp gauge is nice to have. If you run heated accessories you can readily tell by the voltage whether the battery is charging (13v or so) or discharging (11.4v) or everything is happy, happy, happy (14.7v).		The five-function meter from [[http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics CA Sport Touring] (and many other places - search) is larger than the Datel one. It mounts with Velcro. It not only gives you the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has a pickup in the case and another on a wire suitable for taping to the windscreen with a couple of strips of electrical tape or a bit of RTV under the suction cup. The temp gauge is nice to have. If you run heated accessories you can readily tell by the voltage whether the battery is charging (13v or so) or discharging (11.4v) or everything is happy, happy, happy (14.7v).

	You can mount it between the gauge cluster and the windscreen using a couple of small L-brackets and double-stick tape - - no drilling or anything permanent. Put tape around the corners so it won't scratch the inside of the windscreen. This offers some rain protection in case the bike gets left out in the rain ~~(this~~ unit ~~does~~ not ~~appear to be~~ waterproof). It hooks up three places: ground & battery (front accessory leads for these two), and a switched power lead, such as a tap into the horn or instrument lighting wiring. The switched lead mainly only activates the LEDs and back lighting. The display is on constantly, as is usual for LCDs.		You can mount it between the gauge cluster and the windscreen using a couple of small L-brackets and double-stick tape - - no drilling or anything permanent. Put tape around the corners so it won't scratch the inside of the windscreen. This offers some rain protection in case the bike gets left out in the rain. This unit '''is not''' waterproof. It hooks up three places: ground & battery (front accessory leads for these two) and a switched power lead, such as a tap into the horn or instrument lighting wiring. The switched lead mainly only activates the LEDs and back lighting. The display is on constantly, as is usual for LCDs.

	The nighttime illumination is not that good, but it gives you three LEDs: red, amber, and green, to indicate ~~roughly~~ less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added. You can't read the display well at night, and the LEDs are invisible in the daylight, so both display methods have merit.		The nighttime illumination is not that good, but it gives you three LEDs: red, amber, and green, to indicate less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added. You can't read the display well at night, and the LEDs are invisible in the daylight, so both display methods have merit.

	[[image:IMG_7082.jpg\|250px]]		[[image:IMG_7082.jpg\|250px]]

Bokonon at 05:34, 3 April 2010

2010-04-03T05:34:06Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:34, 3 April 2010
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	A modification that will give you instant feedback on the status of your battery and charging system is a voltmeter. This is especially handy if you are running any accessories, as the EX250 doesn't have a lot of [[Alternator Information\|electrical headroom]].		A modification that will give you instant feedback on the status of your battery and charging system is a voltmeter. This is especially handy if you are running any accessories, as the EX250 doesn't have a lot of [[Alternator Information\|electrical headroom]].

	There are many different kinds of gauges available, but if you ask anyone who ever drove an old American car, the digital ones are much easier to use. Your local auto parts store may have what you need. You can also look at [http://www.jcwhitney.com/Voltmeter-Gauges/600002127.jcw JC Whitney], or search the internet. ~~This installation uses~~ a [http://www.digitalmeter.com/ Datel voltmeter]~~. Another version is shown close to the bottom of this page.~~		There are many different kinds of gauges available, but if you ask anyone who ever drove an old American car, the digital ones are much easier to use. Your local auto parts store may have what you need. You can also look at [http://www.jcwhitney.com/Voltmeter-Gauges/600002127.jcw JC Whitney], or search the internet. The first part of this article shows a Datel voltmeter. Later we'll show one from CA Sport Touring, which doesn't require you to cut into your fairings and is about half the cost.

			====[http://www.digitalmeter.com/ Datel voltmeter]====

	The first step with the installation of your meter is to find a suitable location. Put everything on your bike that you usually carry, such as a tank bag, and find a good place. Take careful measurements, because '''you only get one chance to not screw up your fairing.''' Ensure that you can see the voltmeter with a quick glance. On this Ninja 650R the meter was mounted low and to the left, but on the 250, due to a different tank bag, it was determined that up near the windscreen was better.		The first step with the installation of your meter is to find a suitable location. Put everything on your bike that you usually carry, such as a tank bag, and find a good place. Take careful measurements, because '''you only get one chance to not screw up your fairing.''' Ensure that you can see the voltmeter with a quick glance. On this Ninja 650R the meter was mounted low and to the left, but on the 250, due to a different tank bag, it was determined that up near the windscreen was better.
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	[[Image:volt12.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:volt12.jpg\|150px]]

	~~'''Another choice'''~~		====CA Sport Touring [http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics 5-function meter]====

	~~This [http://www.casporttouring.com/store/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=14124&Category_Code=Electronics~~ five-function meter] from CA Sport Touring is larger than the Datel one. It mounts with Velcro. It not only gives you the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has a pickup in the case and another on a wire suitable for taping to the windscreen with a couple of strips of electrical tape, or a bit of RTV under the suction cup. The temp gauge is nice to have. If you run heated accessories you can readily tell by the voltage whether the battery is charging (13v or so) or discharging (11.4v) or everything is happy, happy, happy (14.7v).		The five-function meter from CA Sport Touring is larger than the Datel one. It mounts with Velcro. It not only gives you the voltage, but also the time and temperature. It has a pickup in the case and another on a wire suitable for taping to the windscreen with a couple of strips of electrical tape, or a bit of RTV under the suction cup. The temp gauge is nice to have. If you run heated accessories you can readily tell by the voltage whether the battery is charging (13v or so) or discharging (11.4v) or everything is happy, happy, happy (14.7v).

	You can mount it between the gauge cluster and the windscreen using a couple of small L-brackets and double-stick tape - - no drilling or anything permanent. Put tape around the corners so it won't scratch the inside of the windscreen. This offers some rain protection in case the bike gets left out in the rain (this unit does not appear to be waterproof). It hooks up three places: ground & battery (front accessory leads for these two), and a switched power lead, such as a tap into the horn or instrument lighting wiring. The switched lead mainly only activates the LEDs and back lighting. The display is on constantly, as is usual for LCDs.		You can mount it between the gauge cluster and the windscreen using a couple of small L-brackets and double-stick tape - - no drilling or anything permanent. Put tape around the corners so it won't scratch the inside of the windscreen. This offers some rain protection in case the bike gets left out in the rain (this unit does not appear to be waterproof). It hooks up three places: ground & battery (front accessory leads for these two), and a switched power lead, such as a tap into the horn or instrument lighting wiring. The switched lead mainly only activates the LEDs and back lighting. The display is on constantly, as is usual for LCDs.

	The nighttime illumination is not that good, but it gives you three LEDs: red, amber, and green to indicate roughly less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added. You can't read the display well at night, and the LEDs are invisible in the daylight, so both display methods have merit.		The nighttime illumination is not that good, but it gives you three LEDs: red, amber, and green, to indicate roughly less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added. You can't read the display well at night, and the LEDs are invisible in the daylight, so both display methods have merit.

	[[image:IMG_7082.jpg\|250px]]		[[image:IMG_7082.jpg\|250px]]

Bokonon at 01:45, 3 April 2010

2010-04-03T01:45:02Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:45, 2 April 2010
Line 53:		Line 53:

	The nighttime illumination is not that good, but it gives you three LEDs: red, amber, and green to indicate roughly less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added. You can't read the display well at night, and the LEDs are invisible in the daylight, so both display methods have merit.		The nighttime illumination is not that good, but it gives you three LEDs: red, amber, and green to indicate roughly less than 12.3v, between 12.3 and 12.7v, and over 12.7. You typically get all three when moving, two when stopped without the heaters or brake on, and only the red with either load added. You can't read the display well at night, and the LEDs are invisible in the daylight, so both display methods have merit.

			[[image:IMG_7082.jpg\|250px]]

Bokonon at 17:41, 25 December 2008

2008-12-25T17:41:46Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:41, 25 December 2008
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	The display has a 2-3mm lip that is wider than the body. This holds it in place from above. On the backside there is a metal rectangular retaining clip that holds the body against the mounting surface. There is also a trim piece held by four screws, but it's doubtful that most people would choose to use it with a sportbike.		The display has a 2-3mm lip that is wider than the body. This holds it in place from above. On the backside there is a metal rectangular retaining clip that holds the body against the mounting surface. There is also a trim piece held by four screws, but it's doubtful that most people would choose to use it with a sportbike.

	The wiring on the unit is quite simple. You run two wires; one to positive and one for ground. Add a 3A or 5A inline fuse. Use a power source that is hot only when the key is on. The aux/accessory wires get power ALL of the time, even when there is no key in the ignition. Don't use them. A good location to tap into is the battery side of the horn button. (If you put it on the other side, it'll only work when you honk your horn.) Another option is to get your power from an [[Installing an ~~electrical distribution block~~\|electrical distribution block]]. Whatever you do, running the new wires along OEM wires will usually keep them out of the way.		The wiring on the unit is quite simple. You run two wires; one to positive and one for ground. Add a 3A or 5A inline fuse. Use a power source that is hot only when the key is on. The aux/accessory wires get power ALL of the time, even when there is no key in the ignition. Don't use them. A good location to tap into is the battery side of the horn button. (If you put it on the other side, it'll only work when you honk your horn.) Another option is to get your power from an [[Installing an accessory fuse box\|electrical distribution block]]. Whatever you do, running the new wires along OEM wires will usually keep them out of the way.

	The connections to the meter should be well protected from the weather by the fairings, but if you're concerned you can coat them with [[Waterproofing your electrical connections\|dielectric grease]].		The connections to the meter should be well protected from the weather by the fairings, but if you're concerned you can coat them with [[Waterproofing your electrical connections\|dielectric grease]].