J model oil change - Revision history

Bokonon at 02:13, 28 July 2010

2010-07-28T02:13:11Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:13, 27 July 2010
Line 4:		Line 4:
	The first difference from the standard oil change is using the sidestand, as there is no centerstand on the newer model. If you have a rear stand you can use that, but the crankcase drains just fine while on the sidestand.		The first difference from the standard oil change is using the sidestand, as there is no centerstand on the newer model. If you have a rear stand you can use that, but the crankcase drains just fine while on the sidestand.

	The 'old' drain plug is still there, but is now not used. The oil filter assembly is a carry-over from the previous model.		The 'old' drain plug is still there but is now not used. The oil filter assembly is a carry-over from the previous model.

	[[image:oil_drain_01-3.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:oil_drain_01-3.jpg\|150px]]
Line 32:		Line 32:
	[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg\|150px]]

	Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with the 250R ''off'' the ~~side stand~~ & fully upright.		Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with the 250R ''off'' the sidestand & fully upright.

	Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Ride it for a few minutes and check for leaks again. Make sure there is no oil leaking from around the filter assembly or drain plug. Check your oil religiously.		Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Ride it for a few minutes and check for leaks again. Make sure there is no oil leaking from around the filter assembly or drain plug. Check your oil religiously.

			You should also [[Checking the oil screen\|check the oil screen]] sometime early on in your ownership.

Bokonon at 01:53, 28 July 2010

2010-07-28T01:53:33Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:53, 27 July 2010
Line 1:		Line 1:
	[[Category: EX250J Info]]		[[Category: EX250J Info]]
	This article covers changing the oil in the 08--> EX250J model. There is a lot of information on oil in the [[Engine Oil\|Engine Oil]] section of the FAQ, so ~~make sure to check that~~. The procedure for oil changing in the J model is almost the same as for the older F model, so you might want to look at [[Oil Change Procedure\|that article]] for tips.		This article covers changing the oil in the 08--> EX250J model. There is a lot of information on oil in the [[Engine Oil\|Engine Oil]] section of the FAQ, so do some reading there. The procedure for oil changing in the J model is almost the same as for the older F model, so you might want to look at [[Oil Change Procedure\|that article]] for tips.

	The first difference from the standard oil change is using the sidestand, as there is no centerstand on the newer model. If you have a rear stand you can use that, but the crankcase drains just fine while on the sidestand.		The first difference from the standard oil change is using the sidestand, as there is no centerstand on the newer model. If you have a rear stand you can use that, but the crankcase drains just fine while on the sidestand.

Bokonon at 01:52, 28 July 2010

2010-07-28T01:52:21Z

Bokonon at 23:10, 15 June 2009

2009-06-15T23:10:42Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:10, 15 June 2009
Line 14:		Line 14:
	[[image:oil_drain_04.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:oil_drain_04.jpg\|150px]]

	The ~~vertical~~ position gives very little room to loosen the bolt. Use a [[What should a good set of tools include?\|breaker bar]] and get good leverage away from the concrete and lower shock linkage, otherwise you may remove large amounts of skin from your left pinky and middle finger knuckles... ~~(Don't ask how we know.)~~ Don't use your torque wrench to loosen bolts. It's only for checking the tension when you replace them.		The new position gives very little room to loosen the bolt. Use a [[What should a good set of tools include?\|breaker bar]] and get good leverage away from the concrete and lower shock linkage, otherwise you may remove large amounts of skin from your left pinky and middle finger knuckles... Don't use your torque wrench to loosen bolts. It's only for checking the tension when you replace them.

	[[image:oil_change_022408_01.jpg\|90px]]		[[image:oil_change_022408_01.jpg\|90px]]

Bokonon at 23:07, 15 June 2009

2009-06-15T23:07:30Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 19:07, 15 June 2009
Line 9:		Line 9:
	[[image:oil_drain_02-2.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:oil_drain_02-2.jpg\|150px]]

	The 'new' oil drain plug is now part of the oil strainer assembly. The drain plug and crush washer are identical to the 'old' drain plug and crush washer. Also, the drain plug is now ~~vertical~~ instead of ~~horizontal~~, and it faces slightly downward with the sidestand down.		The 'new' oil drain plug is now part of the oil strainer assembly. The drain plug and crush washer are identical to the 'old' drain plug and crush washer. Also, the drain plug is now horizontal instead of vertical, and it faces slightly downward with the sidestand down.

	[[image:oil_drain_03-2.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:oil_drain_03-2.jpg\|150px]]
Line 27:		Line 27:
	Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.		Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.

	Next step is to add oil. The '08 uses 1.8 quarts (1.7 L) with a filter change, but you don't want to start off pouring that much in there. ~~Fill it up 2~~/~~3 to 3/4 of the way and~~ run the engine for 15+ seconds. Then, shut off the engine and wait several minutes for the oil to drain down. [[How do I check my oil?\|Check the oil level]], and then begin adding as necessary. You may have to repeat these steps several times. Take your time and make sure you get the oil level correct. You don't want to overfill or underfill it. The oil should be at least halfway between the lower and the upper marks on the sight glass. As these pictures were taken in the middle of an oil change, there is no oil showing in the glass.		Next step is to add oil. The '08 uses 1.8 quarts (1.7 L) with a filter change, but you don't want to start off pouring that much in there. Pour in about 1.5 quarts/litres, then run the engine for 15+ seconds. Then, shut off the engine and wait several minutes for the oil to drain down. [[How do I check my oil?\|Check the oil level]], and then begin adding as necessary. You may have to repeat these steps several times. Take your time and make sure you get the oil level correct. You don't want to overfill or underfill it. The oil should be at least halfway between the lower and the upper marks on the sight glass. As these pictures were taken in the middle of an oil change, there is no oil showing in the glass.

	[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg\|90px]]		[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg\|90px]]

Bokonon at 14:16, 21 March 2009

2009-03-21T14:16:28Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 10:16, 21 March 2009
Line 19:		Line 19:
	[[image:oil_change_022408_02.jpg\|90px]]		[[image:oil_change_022408_02.jpg\|90px]]

	After the oil drains from the drain plug, replace it and torque it to 14.5 ft/lbs. You '''HAVE TO''' use a [[A beginner's guide to maintenance tools\|torque wrench]]. As with the classic, you can reuse the crush washer, but a new one is very cheap insurance. When you reuse the crush washer, you run the risk of oil seeping out around the already compressed crush washer.Why skimp on a $0.33 part (92065-097 from www.ronayers.com)~~? Remove the oil filter cover and remove the oil filter. Check the filter for debris.~~		After the oil drains from the drain plug, replace it and torque it to 14.5 ft/lbs. You '''HAVE TO''' use a [[A beginner's guide to maintenance tools\|torque wrench]]. As with the classic, you can reuse the crush washer, but a new one is very cheap insurance. When you reuse the crush washer, you run the risk of oil seeping out around the already compressed crush washer. Why skimp on a $0.33 part? (92065-097 from [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/49/Year/2008/ModelID/8054/Model/Ninja/GroupID/383253/Group/Oil_Pump/Oil_Filter_ www.ronayers.com])

	Put in the new oil filter. This is the [[Oil Filters\|same filter]] as the one on the classic. Check that all the parts for the filter assembly are in the [[Oil Change Procedure\|right order]], especially the washer (part #92022 below). Here's the diagram:		Remove the oil filter cover and remove the oil filter. Check the filter for debris. Put in the new oil filter. This is the [[Oil Filters\|same filter]] as the one on the classic. Check that all the parts for the filter assembly are in the [[Oil Change Procedure\|right order]], especially the washer (part #92022 below). Here's the diagram:

	[[image:Oil filter assembly.jpg\|100px]]		[[image:Oil filter assembly.jpg\|100px]]
Line 27:		Line 27:
	Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.		Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.

	Next step is to add oil. The '08 uses 1.8 quarts (1.7 L) with a filter change, but you don't want to start off pouring that much in there. Fill it up 2/3 to 3/4 of the way and run the engine for 15+ seconds. Then, shut off the engine and wait several minutes for the oil to drain down. [[How do I check my oil?\|Check the oil level]], and then begin adding as necessary. You may have to repeat these steps several times. Take your time and make sure you get the oil level correct. You don't want to overfill or ~~under fill~~ it. The oil should be at least halfway between the lower and the upper marks on the sight glass. As these pictures were taken in the middle of an oil change, there is no oil showing in the glass.		Next step is to add oil. The '08 uses 1.8 quarts (1.7 L) with a filter change, but you don't want to start off pouring that much in there. Fill it up 2/3 to 3/4 of the way and run the engine for 15+ seconds. Then, shut off the engine and wait several minutes for the oil to drain down. [[How do I check my oil?\|Check the oil level]], and then begin adding as necessary. You may have to repeat these steps several times. Take your time and make sure you get the oil level correct. You don't want to overfill or underfill it. The oil should be at least halfway between the lower and the upper marks on the sight glass. As these pictures were taken in the middle of an oil change, there is no oil showing in the glass.

	[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg\|90px]]		[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg\|90px]]
	[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg\|150px]]

	'''Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with 250R off the side stand & fully upright.'''		'''Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with the 250R ''off'' the side stand & fully upright.'''

	Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Check your oil religiously.		Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Check your oil religiously.

Hickman71: changed oil amount from 1.7qt to 1.8qt

2009-03-21T13:08:36Z

changed oil amount from 1.7qt to 1.8qt

← Older revision		Revision as of 09:08, 21 March 2009
Line 19:		Line 19:
	[[image:oil_change_022408_02.jpg\|90px]]		[[image:oil_change_022408_02.jpg\|90px]]

	After the oil drains from the drain plug, replace it and torque it to 14.5 ft/lbs. You '''HAVE TO''' use a [[A beginner's guide to maintenance tools\|torque wrench]]. As with the classic, you can reuse the crush washer, but a new one is very cheap insurance. Remove the oil filter cover and remove the oil filter. Check the filter for debris.		After the oil drains from the drain plug, replace it and torque it to 14.5 ft/lbs. You '''HAVE TO''' use a [[A beginner's guide to maintenance tools\|torque wrench]]. As with the classic, you can reuse the crush washer, but a new one is very cheap insurance. When you reuse the crush washer, you run the risk of oil seeping out around the already compressed crush washer.Why skimp on a $0.33 part (92065-097 from www.ronayers.com)? Remove the oil filter cover and remove the oil filter. Check the filter for debris.

	Put in the new oil filter. This is the [[Oil Filters\|same filter]] as the one on the classic. Check that all the parts for the filter assembly are in the [[Oil Change Procedure\|right order]], especially the washer (part #92022 below). Here's the diagram:		Put in the new oil filter. This is the [[Oil Filters\|same filter]] as the one on the classic. Check that all the parts for the filter assembly are in the [[Oil Change Procedure\|right order]], especially the washer (part #92022 below). Here's the diagram:
Line 27:		Line 27:
	Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.		Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.

	Next step is to add oil. The '08 uses 1.7 ~~quarts~~ with a filter change, but you don't want to start off pouring that much in there. Fill it up 2/3 to 3/4 of the way and run the engine for 15+ seconds. Then, shut off the engine and wait several minutes for the oil to drain down. [[How do I check my oil?\|Check the oil level]], and then begin adding as necessary. You may have to repeat these steps several times. Take your time and make sure you get the oil level correct. You don't want to overfill or ~~underfill~~ it. The oil should be at least halfway between the lower and the upper marks on the sight glass. As these pictures were taken in the middle of an oil change, there is no oil showing in the glass.		Next step is to add oil. The '08 uses 1.8 quarts (1.7 L) with a filter change, but you don't want to start off pouring that much in there. Fill it up 2/3 to 3/4 of the way and run the engine for 15+ seconds. Then, shut off the engine and wait several minutes for the oil to drain down. [[How do I check my oil?\|Check the oil level]], and then begin adding as necessary. You may have to repeat these steps several times. Take your time and make sure you get the oil level correct. You don't want to overfill or under fill it. The oil should be at least halfway between the lower and the upper marks on the sight glass. As these pictures were taken in the middle of an oil change, there is no oil showing in the glass.

	[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg\|90px]]		[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg\|90px]]
	[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg\|150px]]

	'''Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with 250R off the ~~sidestand~~ & fully upright.'''		'''Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with 250R off the side stand & fully upright.'''

	Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Check your oil religiously.		Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Check your oil religiously.

Bokonon at 09:50, 21 March 2009

2009-03-21T09:50:48Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:50, 21 March 2009
Line 27:		Line 27:
	Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.		Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.

	Next step is to add oil. The '08 uses 1.7 quarts with a filter change, but you don't want to start off pouring that much in there. Fill it up 2/3 to 3/4 of the way and run the engine for 15+ seconds. Then, shut off the engine and wait several minutes for the oil to drain down. [[How do I check my oil?\|Check the oil level]], and then begin adding as necessary. You may have to repeat these steps several times. Take your time and make sure you get the oil level correct. You don't want to overfill or underfill it. The oil should be at least halfway between the lower and the upper marks on the sight glass.		Next step is to add oil. The '08 uses 1.7 quarts with a filter change, but you don't want to start off pouring that much in there. Fill it up 2/3 to 3/4 of the way and run the engine for 15+ seconds. Then, shut off the engine and wait several minutes for the oil to drain down. [[How do I check my oil?\|Check the oil level]], and then begin adding as necessary. You may have to repeat these steps several times. Take your time and make sure you get the oil level correct. You don't want to overfill or underfill it. The oil should be at least halfway between the lower and the upper marks on the sight glass. As these pictures were taken in the middle of an oil change, there is no oil showing in the glass.

	~~'''Make sure you check~~ the oil ~~level on a flat surface~~, ~~with 250R off~~ the ~~sidestand & fully upright~~.~~'''~~

	[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg\|90px]]		[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg\|90px]]
	[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg\|150px]]

			'''Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with 250R off the sidestand & fully upright.'''

	Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Check your oil religiously.		Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Check your oil religiously.

Bokonon at 09:45, 21 March 2009

2009-03-21T09:45:19Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:45, 21 March 2009
Line 1:		Line 1:
	[[Category: EX250J Info]]		[[Category: EX250J Info]]
	This article covers changing the oil in the 08--> J model. It would be in your best interest to read the articles in the [[Engine Oil\|Engine Oil]] section of the FAQ, particularly the ones related to oil changing in the older F model. The procedures for the two bikes are almost the same.		This article covers changing the oil in the 08--> EX250J model. It would be in your best interest to read the articles in the [[Engine Oil\|Engine Oil]] section of the FAQ, particularly the ones related to oil changing in the older F model. The procedures for the two bikes are almost the same.

	The first difference from the standard oil change is using the sidestand, as there is no centerstand on the newer model. If you have a rear stand you can use that, but the crankcase drains just fine while on the sidestand.		The first difference from the standard oil change is using the sidestand, as there is no centerstand on the newer model. If you have a rear stand you can use that, but the crankcase drains just fine while on the sidestand.
Line 14:		Line 14:
	[[image:oil_drain_04.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:oil_drain_04.jpg\|150px]]

	The vertical position gives very little room to loosen the bolt. Use a [[What should a good set of tools include?\|breaker bar]] and get good leverage away from the concrete and lower shock linkage (otherwise, you may remove large amounts of skin from your left pinky and middle finger knuckles... ~~don~~'t ask how we know). Don't use your torque wrench to loosen bolts. It's only for checking the tension when you replace them.		The vertical position gives very little room to loosen the bolt. Use a [[What should a good set of tools include?\|breaker bar]] and get good leverage away from the concrete and lower shock linkage, otherwise you may remove large amounts of skin from your left pinky and middle finger knuckles... (Don't ask how we know.) Don't use your torque wrench to loosen bolts. It's only for checking the tension when you replace them.

	[[image:oil_change_022408_01.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[image:oil_change_022408_01.jpg\|90px]]
	[[image:oil_change_022408_02.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[image:oil_change_022408_02.jpg\|90px]]

	After the oil drains from the drain plug, replace it and torque it to 14.5 ft/lbs. You '''HAVE TO''' use a [[A beginner's guide to maintenance tools\|torque wrench]]. As with the classic, you can reuse the crush washer, but a new one is very cheap insurance. Remove the oil filter cover and remove the oil filter. Check the filter for debris.		After the oil drains from the drain plug, replace it and torque it to 14.5 ft/lbs. You '''HAVE TO''' use a [[A beginner's guide to maintenance tools\|torque wrench]]. As with the classic, you can reuse the crush washer, but a new one is very cheap insurance. Remove the oil filter cover and remove the oil filter. Check the filter for debris.
Line 23:		Line 23:
	Put in the new oil filter. This is the [[Oil Filters\|same filter]] as the one on the classic. Check that all the parts for the filter assembly are in the [[Oil Change Procedure\|right order]], especially the washer (part #92022 below). Here's the diagram:		Put in the new oil filter. This is the [[Oil Filters\|same filter]] as the one on the classic. Check that all the parts for the filter assembly are in the [[Oil Change Procedure\|right order]], especially the washer (part #92022 below). Here's the diagram:

	[[image:Oil filter assembly.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[image:Oil filter assembly.jpg\|100px]]

	Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.		Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.
Line 31:		Line 31:
	'''Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with 250R off the sidestand & fully upright.'''		'''Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with 250R off the sidestand & fully upright.'''

	[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg\|90px]]
	[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg\|150px]]

	Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Check your oil religiously.		Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Check your oil religiously.

Bokonon at 09:30, 21 March 2009

2009-03-21T09:30:15Z

New page

[[Category: EX250J Info]]
This article covers changing the oil in the 08--> J model. It would be in your best interest to read the articles in the [[Engine Oil|Engine Oil]] section of the FAQ, particularly the ones related to oil changing in the older F model. The procedures for the two bikes are almost the same.

The first difference from the standard oil change is using the sidestand, as there is no centerstand on the newer model. If you have a rear stand you can use that, but the crankcase drains just fine while on the sidestand.

The 'old' drain plug is still there, but is now not used. The oil filter assembly is a carry-over from the previous model.

[[image:oil_drain_01-3.jpg|150px]]
[[image:oil_drain_02-2.jpg|150px]]

The 'new' oil drain plug is now part of the oil strainer assembly. The drain plug and crush washer are identical to the 'old' drain plug and crush washer. Also, the drain plug is now vertical instead of horizontal, and it faces slightly downward with the sidestand down.

[[image:oil_drain_03-2.jpg|150px]]
[[image:oil_drain_04.jpg|150px]]

The vertical position gives very little room to loosen the bolt. Use a [[What should a good set of tools include?|breaker bar]] and get good leverage away from the concrete and lower shock linkage (otherwise, you may remove large amounts of skin from your left pinky and middle finger knuckles... don't ask how we know). Don't use your torque wrench to loosen bolts. It's only for checking the tension when you replace them.

[[image:oil_change_022408_01.jpg|150px]]
[[image:oil_change_022408_02.jpg|150px]]

After the oil drains from the drain plug, replace it and torque it to 14.5 ft/lbs. You '''HAVE TO''' use a [[A beginner's guide to maintenance tools|torque wrench]]. As with the classic, you can reuse the crush washer, but a new one is very cheap insurance. Remove the oil filter cover and remove the oil filter. Check the filter for debris.

Put in the new oil filter. This is the [[Oil Filters|same filter]] as the one on the classic. Check that all the parts for the filter assembly are in the [[Oil Change Procedure|right order]], especially the washer (part #92022 below). Here's the diagram:

[[image:Oil filter assembly.jpg|150px]]

Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.

Next step is to add oil. The '08 uses 1.7 quarts with a filter change, but you don't want to start off pouring that much in there. Fill it up 2/3 to 3/4 of the way and run the engine for 15+ seconds. Then, shut off the engine and wait several minutes for the oil to drain down. [[How do I check my oil?|Check the oil level]], and then begin adding as necessary. You may have to repeat these steps several times. Take your time and make sure you get the oil level correct. You don't want to overfill or underfill it. The oil should be at least halfway between the lower and the upper marks on the sight glass.

'''Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with 250R off the sidestand & fully upright.'''

[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg|150px]]
[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg|150px]]

Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Check your oil religiously.

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:52, 27 July 2010
Line 1:		Line 1:
	[[Category: EX250J Info]]		[[Category: EX250J Info]]
	This article covers changing the oil in the 08--> EX250J model. ~~It would be in your best interest to read the articles~~ in the [[Engine Oil\|Engine Oil]] section of the FAQ, ~~particularly the ones related~~ to oil changing in the older F model~~. The procedures~~ for ~~the two bikes are almost the same~~.		This article covers changing the oil in the 08--> EX250J model. There is a lot of information on oil in the [[Engine Oil\|Engine Oil]] section of the FAQ, so make sure to check that. The procedure for oil changing in the J model is almost the same as for the older F model, so you might want to look at [[Oil Change Procedure\|that article]] for tips.

	The first difference from the standard oil change is using the sidestand, as there is no centerstand on the newer model. If you have a rear stand you can use that, but the crankcase drains just fine while on the sidestand.		The first difference from the standard oil change is using the sidestand, as there is no centerstand on the newer model. If you have a rear stand you can use that, but the crankcase drains just fine while on the sidestand.
Line 14:		Line 14:
	[[image:oil_drain_04.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:oil_drain_04.jpg\|150px]]

	The ~~new~~ position gives very little room to loosen the bolt. Use a [[What should a good set of tools include?\|breaker bar]] and get good leverage away from the concrete and lower shock linkage, otherwise you may remove large amounts of skin from your left pinky and middle finger knuckles... Don't use your torque wrench to loosen bolts. It's only for checking the tension when you replace them.		The drain plug position gives very little room to loosen the bolt. Use a [[What should a good set of tools include?\|breaker bar]] and get good leverage away from the concrete and lower shock linkage, otherwise you may remove large amounts of skin from your left pinky and middle finger knuckles... Don't use your torque wrench to loosen bolts. It's only for checking the tension when you replace them.

	[[image:oil_change_022408_01.jpg\|90px]]		[[image:oil_change_022408_01.jpg\|90px]]
Line 27:		Line 27:
	Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.		Put a fine bead of oil on the rubber gaskets. Torque the cover to 14.5 ft/lbs.

	Next step is to add oil. The '08 uses 1.8 quarts (1.7 L) with a filter change, but you don't want to start off pouring that much in there. Pour in about 1.5 quarts/litres, then run the engine for 15+ seconds. Then, shut off the engine and wait several minutes for the oil to drain down. [[How do I check my oil?\|Check the oil level]], and then begin adding as necessary. You may have to repeat these steps several times. Take your time and make sure you get the oil level correct. You don't want to overfill or underfill it. The oil should be at least halfway between the lower and the upper marks on the sight glass. As these pictures were taken in the middle of an oil change, there is no oil showing in the glass.		Next step is to add oil. The '08 uses 1.8 quarts (1.7 L) with a filter change, but you don't want to start off pouring that much in there. Pour in about 1.5 quarts/litres, then run the engine for 15+ seconds. Then, shut off the engine and wait several minutes for the oil to drain down. [[How do I check my oil?\|Check the oil level]], and then begin adding as necessary. You may have to repeat these steps several times. Take your time and make sure you get the oil level correct. You don't want to overfill or underfill it. The oil should be at least halfway between the lower and the upper marks on the sight glass. Keeping the level at or close to the full mark is recommended. As these pictures were taken in the middle of an oil change, there is no oil showing in the glass.

	[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg\|90px]]		[[image:oil_change_022408_05-2.jpg\|90px]]
	[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:Sight glass-6-2.jpg\|150px]]

	~~'''~~Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with the 250R ''off'' the side stand & fully upright.~~'''~~		Make sure you check the oil level on a flat surface, with the 250R ''off'' the side stand & fully upright.

	Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Check your oil religiously.		Run the engine for a minute or so and check for leaks. Ride it for a few minutes and check for leaks again. Make sure there is no oil leaking from around the filter assembly or drain plug. Check your oil religiously.