Preferred Brands - Revision history

Bokonon: /* Which oils should not be used? */

2012-04-16T01:43:29Z

Which oils should not be used?

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:43, 15 April 2012
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	You've probably had friends tell you that you have to run motorcycle-specific oil in your bike. You've likely also seen that $12-a-quart stuff at the dealer's. Riders usually use these oils because they are worried that non-moto oil will be detrimental to their [[Wet clutch Q & A\|wet clutch]].		You've probably had friends tell you that you have to run motorcycle-specific oil in your bike. You've likely also seen that $12-a-quart stuff at the dealer's. Riders usually use these oils because they are worried that non-moto oil will be detrimental to their [[Wet clutch Q & A\|wet clutch]].

	What they are really worried about is oil that is labeled [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil#Clutch_lubrication Energy Conserving]. Energy conserving (EC) oils are made to be more slippery than conventional oils, which may cause the clutch to slip on some motorcycles. If you put EC oil in your bike and do feel clutch slippage, just change the oil to non-EC; that should make the problem go away.		What they are really worried about is oil that is labeled [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil#Clutch_lubrication Energy Conserving]. Energy conserving (EC) oils are made to be more slippery than conventional oils, which may cause the clutch to slip on some motorcycles. If you put EC oil in your bike and do feel clutch slippage, just change the oil to non-EC; that should make the problem go away. Note that newer EC oils are labeled 'resource conserving'.

	There is an [http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?t=56989 ongoing discussion] on this board concerning this subject. One of our motorcycle mechanics has 100,000 miles of riding on EC oil. A couple of our daily riders used it for over a year without any negative effects. But we're going to assume that, if you are reading this, you are a relatively new rider. As such, we recommend that you play it safe and stick to the non-EC type.		There is an [http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?t=56989 ongoing discussion] on this board concerning this subject. One of our motorcycle mechanics has 100,000 miles of riding on EC oil. A couple of our daily riders used it for over a year without any negative effects. But we're going to assume that, if you are reading this, you are a relatively new rider. As such, we recommend that you play it safe and stick to the non-EC type.

Bokonon at 09:00, 22 September 2010

2010-09-22T09:00:13Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:00, 22 September 2010
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	Nearly all EC oils are 10w-30 or lighter. As the recommended weights for the EX250 are heavier than that, this is not really much of an issue, anyway. Pick the weight you want to run, keep the level full, and you're good to go until the next oil change.		Nearly all EC oils are 10w-30 or lighter. As the recommended weights for the EX250 are heavier than that, this is not really much of an issue, anyway. Pick the weight you want to run, keep the level full, and you're good to go until the next oil change.


	==Want to read more about oil?==		==Want to read more about oil?==

	See [[Informative oil links]]		See [[Informative oil links]]

Bokonon: /* Synthetic oil */

2010-09-22T08:51:47Z

Synthetic oil

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:51, 22 September 2010
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	There is a club favorite when it comes to synthetic oil: [http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/t6_detail.html Shell Rotella T6] Full Synthetic 5W-40. It's made for turbo-diesel trucks, but it works great in the Ninjette. You can find it at Wal-Mart, truck supply stores (Flying J or other truck stops) and tractor/farm stores (Tractor Supply Co). There are a couple different Shell oils with the Rotella brand. Get the full synthetic, not the synthetic blend.		There is a club favorite when it comes to synthetic oil: [http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/t6_detail.html Shell Rotella T6] Full Synthetic 5W-40. It's made for turbo-diesel trucks, but it works great in the Ninjette. You can find it at Wal-Mart, truck supply stores (Flying J or other truck stops) and tractor/farm stores (Tractor Supply Co). There are a couple different Shell oils with the Rotella brand. Get the full synthetic, not the synthetic blend.

	Rotella T6 is a fully synthetic oil with a very high film strength, which means it doesn't dry off of ~~the~~ metal parts easily, and it lubricates well even during periods of reduced pressure and reduced flow. This will help reduce wear on your engine if/when you are forced to do lots of idling before the engine has had a chance to warm up.		Rotella T6 is a fully synthetic oil with a very high film strength, which means it doesn't dry off of metal parts easily, and it lubricates well even during periods of reduced pressure and reduced flow. This will help reduce wear on your engine if/when you are forced to do lots of idling before the engine has had a chance to warm up.

	~~Secondly,~~ Rotella T6 is a 5W "cold" number oil, so it will flow easier when cold, and since it's full synthetic its cold flow characteristics are excellent to begin with. ~~BUT~~, if you review the oil requirements for the EX250, the oil's "hot number" is supposed to be either 40W or 50W to properly protect the engine at its full operating temp. Most 5W-XX oils are 5W-20 or 5W-30. Rotella ~~T6 is unique in having a~~ 40W "hot" weight, so you won't be sacrificing its ability to protect the engine when it is fully warmed up.		Rotella T6 is a 5W "cold" number oil, so it will flow easier when cold, and since it's a full synthetic, its cold flow characteristics are excellent to begin with. Also, if you review the [[Oil Change Frequency\|oil requirements]] for the EX250, the oil's "hot" number is supposed to be either 40W or 50W to properly protect the engine at its full operating temp. Most 5W-XX oils are 5W-20 or 5W-30. With Rotella's 40W "hot" weight, you won't be sacrificing its ability to protect the engine when it is fully warmed up.

Bokonon at 08:43, 22 September 2010

2010-09-22T08:43:43Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:43, 22 September 2010
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	[[Category:Engine]]		[[Category:Engine]]
	~~'''Q''':~~ Are there preferred brands of oil for motorcycle use?		==Are there preferred brands of oil for motorcycle use?==

	~~'''A1''':~~ Not really. The two most important rules when it comes to oil are: 1. Make sure there is enough in the engine. 2. Change it regularly. What you change it with or what specific change interval you use are secondary. Pick a quality, name-brand oil with the correct viscosity for your climate (5W-40 up to 20W-50; see your ~~owners~~ manual). It can be for either autos or motos.		====Standard oil====

			Not really. The two most important rules when it comes to oil are: 1. Make sure there is enough in the engine. 2. Change it regularly. What you change it with or what specific change interval you use are secondary. Pick a quality, name-brand oil with the correct viscosity for your climate (5W-40 up to 20W-50; see your owner's manual). It can be for either autos or motos.

	Keep in mind that nearly everyone who has run motorcycles for a long time uses [[When can I change to synthetic oil?\|synthetic oil]], but you shouldn't use it until the engine is broken in. Until then, use a quality brand and change it more frequently than the manual calls for.		Keep in mind that nearly everyone who has run motorcycles for a long time uses [[When can I change to synthetic oil?\|synthetic oil]], but you shouldn't use it until the engine is broken in. Until then, use a quality brand and change it more frequently than the manual calls for.

	~~'''A2''':~~ There is a club favorite when it comes to synthetic oil: [http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/t6_detail.html Shell Rotella T] Synthetic 5W-40. It's made for turbo-diesel trucks, but it works great in the Ninjette. You can find it at Wal-Mart, truck supply stores (Flying J or other truck stops) and tractor/farm stores (Tractor Supply Co). There are a couple different Shell oils with the Rotella brand. Get the full synthetic, not the synthetic blend. ~~To find out more about why~~ oil ~~made for diesel trucks is good for your motorcycle~~, ~~read~~ the ~~Commercial (Diesel) Oil section~~ of ~~[http://www~~.~~calsci.com~~/~~motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html All About Oil]~~.		====Synthetic oil====

			There is a club favorite when it comes to synthetic oil: [http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/t6_detail.html Shell Rotella T6] Full Synthetic 5W-40. It's made for turbo-diesel trucks, but it works great in the Ninjette. You can find it at Wal-Mart, truck supply stores (Flying J or other truck stops) and tractor/farm stores (Tractor Supply Co). There are a couple different Shell oils with the Rotella brand. Get the full synthetic, not the synthetic blend.

			Rotella T6 is a fully synthetic oil with a very high film strength, which means it doesn't dry off of the metal parts easily, and it lubricates well even during periods of reduced pressure and reduced flow. This will help reduce wear on your engine if/when you are forced to do lots of idling before the engine has had a chance to warm up.

	'''~~Q''':Which oils should not~~ be ~~used?~~		Secondly, Rotella T6 is a 5W "cold" number oil, so it will flow easier when cold, and since it's full synthetic its cold flow characteristics are excellent to begin with. BUT, if you review the oil requirements for the EX250, the oil's "hot number" is supposed to be either 40W or 50W to properly protect the engine at its full operating temp. Most 5W-XX oils are 5W-20 or 5W-30. Rotella T6 is unique in having a 40W "hot" weight, so you won't be sacrificing its ability to protect the engine when it is fully warmed up.

	~~'''A'''~~: You've probably had friends tell you that you have to run motorcycle-specific oil in your bike. You've likely also seen that $12-a-quart stuff at the dealer's. Riders usually use these oils because they are worried that non-moto oil will be detrimental to their [[Wet clutch Q & A\|wet clutch]].
			To find out more about why oil made for diesel trucks is good for your motorcycle, read the Commercial (Diesel) Oil section of [http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html All About Oil].

			==Which oils should not be used?==

			You've probably had friends tell you that you have to run motorcycle-specific oil in your bike. You've likely also seen that $12-a-quart stuff at the dealer's. Riders usually use these oils because they are worried that non-moto oil will be detrimental to their [[Wet clutch Q & A\|wet clutch]].

	What they are really worried about is oil that is labeled [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil#Clutch_lubrication Energy Conserving]. Energy conserving (EC) oils are made to be more slippery than conventional oils, which may cause the clutch to slip on some motorcycles. If you put EC oil in your bike and do feel clutch slippage, just change the oil to non-EC; that should make the problem go away.		What they are really worried about is oil that is labeled [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil#Clutch_lubrication Energy Conserving]. Energy conserving (EC) oils are made to be more slippery than conventional oils, which may cause the clutch to slip on some motorcycles. If you put EC oil in your bike and do feel clutch slippage, just change the oil to non-EC; that should make the problem go away.
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	~~'''~~Want to read more about oil?~~'''~~ See [[Informative oil links]]		==Want to read more about oil?==

			See [[Informative oil links]]

Bokonon at 04:54, 29 August 2010

2010-08-29T04:54:29Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:54, 29 August 2010
Line 2:		Line 2:
	'''Q''': Are there preferred brands of oil for motorcycle use?		'''Q''': Are there preferred brands of oil for motorcycle use?

	'''A''': Not really. The two most important rules when it comes to oil are: 1. Make sure there is enough in the engine. 2. Change it regularly. What you change it with or what specific change interval you use are secondary. Pick a quality, name-brand oil with the correct viscosity for your climate (5W-40 up to 20W-50; see your owners manual). It can be for either autos or motos.		'''A1''': Not really. The two most important rules when it comes to oil are: 1. Make sure there is enough in the engine. 2. Change it regularly. What you change it with or what specific change interval you use are secondary. Pick a quality, name-brand oil with the correct viscosity for your climate (5W-40 up to 20W-50; see your owners manual). It can be for either autos or motos.

	Keep in mind that nearly everyone who has run motorcycles for a long time uses [[When can I change to synthetic oil?\|synthetic oil]], but you shouldn't use it until the engine is broken in. Until then, use a quality brand and change it more frequently than the manual calls for.		Keep in mind that nearly everyone who has run motorcycles for a long time uses [[When can I change to synthetic oil?\|synthetic oil]], but you shouldn't use it until the engine is broken in. Until then, use a quality brand and change it more frequently than the manual calls for.

	There is a club favorite when it comes to synthetic oil: [http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/t6_detail.html Shell Rotella T] Synthetic 5W-40. It's made for turbo-diesel trucks, but it works great in the Ninjette. You can find it at Wal-Mart, truck supply stores (Flying J or other truck stops) and tractor/farm stores (Tractor Supply Co). There are a couple different Shell oils with the Rotella brand. Get the full synthetic, not the synthetic blend. To find out more about why oil made for diesel trucks is good for your motorcycle, read the Commercial (Diesel) Oil section of [http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html All About Oil].		'''A2''': There is a club favorite when it comes to synthetic oil: [http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/t6_detail.html Shell Rotella T] Synthetic 5W-40. It's made for turbo-diesel trucks, but it works great in the Ninjette. You can find it at Wal-Mart, truck supply stores (Flying J or other truck stops) and tractor/farm stores (Tractor Supply Co). There are a couple different Shell oils with the Rotella brand. Get the full synthetic, not the synthetic blend. To find out more about why oil made for diesel trucks is good for your motorcycle, read the Commercial (Diesel) Oil section of [http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html All About Oil].

	~~Want to read more about oil? See [[Informative oil links]]~~

	'''Q''':Which oils should not be used?		'''Q''':Which oils should not be used?
Line 26:		Line 24:

	Nearly all EC oils are 10w-30 or lighter. As the recommended weights for the EX250 are heavier than that, this is not really much of an issue, anyway. Pick the weight you want to run, keep the level full, and you're good to go until the next oil change.		Nearly all EC oils are 10w-30 or lighter. As the recommended weights for the EX250 are heavier than that, this is not really much of an issue, anyway. Pick the weight you want to run, keep the level full, and you're good to go until the next oil change.


			'''Want to read more about oil?''' See [[Informative oil links]]

Bokonon at 04:44, 29 August 2010

2010-08-29T04:44:39Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 00:44, 29 August 2010
Line 6:		Line 6:
	Keep in mind that nearly everyone who has run motorcycles for a long time uses [[When can I change to synthetic oil?\|synthetic oil]], but you shouldn't use it until the engine is broken in. Until then, use a quality brand and change it more frequently than the manual calls for.		Keep in mind that nearly everyone who has run motorcycles for a long time uses [[When can I change to synthetic oil?\|synthetic oil]], but you shouldn't use it until the engine is broken in. Until then, use a quality brand and change it more frequently than the manual calls for.

	There is a club favorite when it comes to synthetic oil: [http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/t6_detail.html Shell Rotella T] Synthetic 5W-40. It's made for turbo-diesel trucks, but it works great in the Ninjette. You can find it at Wal-Mart, truck supply stores (Flying J or other truck stops) and tractor/farm stores (Tractor Supply Co). There are a couple different Shell oils with the Rotella brand. Get the full synthetic, not the synthetic blend.		There is a club favorite when it comes to synthetic oil: [http://www.shell.com/home/Framework?siteId=rotella-en&FC2=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/zzz_lhn.html&FC3=/rotella-en/html/iwgen/products/t6_detail.html Shell Rotella T] Synthetic 5W-40. It's made for turbo-diesel trucks, but it works great in the Ninjette. You can find it at Wal-Mart, truck supply stores (Flying J or other truck stops) and tractor/farm stores (Tractor Supply Co). There are a couple different Shell oils with the Rotella brand. Get the full synthetic, not the synthetic blend. To find out more about why oil made for diesel trucks is good for your motorcycle, read the Commercial (Diesel) Oil section of [http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html All About Oil].

	Want to read more about oil? See [[Informative oil links]]		Want to read more about oil? See [[Informative oil links]]

Bokonon at 05:50, 26 July 2010

2010-07-26T05:50:56Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:50, 26 July 2010
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	'''A''': You've probably had friends tell you that you have to run motorcycle-specific oil in your bike. You've likely also seen that $12-a-quart stuff at the dealer's. Riders usually use these oils because they are worried that non-moto oil will be detrimental to their [[Wet clutch Q & A\|wet clutch]].		'''A''': You've probably had friends tell you that you have to run motorcycle-specific oil in your bike. You've likely also seen that $12-a-quart stuff at the dealer's. Riders usually use these oils because they are worried that non-moto oil will be detrimental to their [[Wet clutch Q & A\|wet clutch]].

	What they are really worried about is oil that is labeled [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil#Clutch_lubrication Energy Conserving]. Energy conserving (EC) oils are made to be more slippery than conventional oils, which may cause the clutch to slip on some motorcycles. If you put EC oil in your bike and do feel clutch slippage, just change the oil to non-EC~~. That~~ should make the ~~slipping~~ go away~~, as long as you haven't let it go on for a long time~~.		What they are really worried about is oil that is labeled [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil#Clutch_lubrication Energy Conserving]. Energy conserving (EC) oils are made to be more slippery than conventional oils, which may cause the clutch to slip on some motorcycles. If you put EC oil in your bike and do feel clutch slippage, just change the oil to non-EC; that should make the problem go away.

	There is an [http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?t=56989 ongoing discussion] on this board concerning this subject. One of our motorcycle mechanics has 100,000 miles of riding on EC oil. A couple of our daily riders used it for over a year without any negative effects. But we're going to assume that, if you are reading this, you are a relatively new rider. As such, we recommend that you play it safe and stick to the non-EC type.		There is an [http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?t=56989 ongoing discussion] on this board concerning this subject. One of our motorcycle mechanics has 100,000 miles of riding on EC oil. A couple of our daily riders used it for over a year without any negative effects. But we're going to assume that, if you are reading this, you are a relatively new rider. As such, we recommend that you play it safe and stick to the non-EC type.

Bokonon at 02:19, 26 July 2010

2010-07-26T02:19:41Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:19, 25 July 2010
Line 14:		Line 14:
	'''A''': You've probably had friends tell you that you have to run motorcycle-specific oil in your bike. You've likely also seen that $12-a-quart stuff at the dealer's. Riders usually use these oils because they are worried that non-moto oil will be detrimental to their [[Wet clutch Q & A\|wet clutch]].		'''A''': You've probably had friends tell you that you have to run motorcycle-specific oil in your bike. You've likely also seen that $12-a-quart stuff at the dealer's. Riders usually use these oils because they are worried that non-moto oil will be detrimental to their [[Wet clutch Q & A\|wet clutch]].

	What they are really worried about is oil that is labeled [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil#Clutch_lubrication Energy Conserving]. Energy conserving (EC) oils are made to be more slippery than conventional oils~~. In some motorcycles~~, ~~this can~~ cause the clutch to slip. If you put EC oil in your bike and do feel clutch slippage, just change the oil to non-EC. That should make the slipping go away, as long as you haven't let it go on for a long time.		What they are really worried about is oil that is labeled [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil#Clutch_lubrication Energy Conserving]. Energy conserving (EC) oils are made to be more slippery than conventional oils, which may cause the clutch to slip on some motorcycles. If you put EC oil in your bike and do feel clutch slippage, just change the oil to non-EC. That should make the slipping go away, as long as you haven't let it go on for a long time.

	There is an [http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?t=56989 ongoing discussion] on this board concerning this subject. One of our motorcycle mechanics has 100,000 miles of riding on EC oil. A couple of our daily riders used it for over a year without any negative effects. But we're going to assume that, if you are reading this, you are a relatively new rider. As such, we recommend that you play it safe and stick to the non-EC type.		There is an [http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?t=56989 ongoing discussion] on this board concerning this subject. One of our motorcycle mechanics has 100,000 miles of riding on EC oil. A couple of our daily riders used it for over a year without any negative effects. But we're going to assume that, if you are reading this, you are a relatively new rider. As such, we recommend that you play it safe and stick to the non-EC type.
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	[[Image:15W40_donut.jpeg\|100px]]		[[Image:15W40_donut.jpeg\|100px]]

	Nearly all ~~energy conserving~~ oils are 10w-30 or lighter. As the recommended weights for the EX250 are heavier than that, this is not really much of an issue, anyway. Pick the weight you want to run, keep the level full, and you're good to go until the next oil change.		Nearly all EC oils are 10w-30 or lighter. As the recommended weights for the EX250 are heavier than that, this is not really much of an issue, anyway. Pick the weight you want to run, keep the level full, and you're good to go until the next oil change.

Bokonon at 02:16, 26 July 2010

2010-07-26T02:16:00Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 22:16, 25 July 2010
Line 14:		Line 14:
	'''A''': You've probably had friends tell you that you have to run motorcycle-specific oil in your bike. You've likely also seen that $12-a-quart stuff at the dealer's. Riders usually use these oils because they are worried that non-moto oil will be detrimental to their [[Wet clutch Q & A\|wet clutch]].		'''A''': You've probably had friends tell you that you have to run motorcycle-specific oil in your bike. You've likely also seen that $12-a-quart stuff at the dealer's. Riders usually use these oils because they are worried that non-moto oil will be detrimental to their [[Wet clutch Q & A\|wet clutch]].

	What they are really worried about is oil that is labeled [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil#Clutch_lubrication Energy Conserving]. Energy conserving oils are made to be more slippery than conventional oils, and ~~your~~ clutch ~~may not like this fact~~. ~~However~~, ~~there~~ is an [http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?t=56989 ongoing discussion] on this board concerning this subject. One of our motorcycle mechanics has 100,000 miles of riding on ~~energy-conserving~~ oil. A couple of our daily riders used it for over a year without any negative effects. But we're going to assume that, if you are reading this, you are a relatively new rider. As such, we recommend that you play it safe and stick to the non-~~energy-conserving~~ type.		What they are really worried about is oil that is labeled [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motorcycle_oil#Clutch_lubrication Energy Conserving]. Energy conserving (EC) oils are made to be more slippery than conventional oils. In some motorcycles, this can cause the clutch to slip. If you put EC oil in your bike and do feel clutch slippage, just change the oil to non-EC. That should make the slipping go away, as long as you haven't let it go on for a long time.

			There is an [http://forums.ninja250.org/viewtopic.php?t=56989 ongoing discussion] on this board concerning this subject. One of our motorcycle mechanics has 100,000 miles of riding on EC oil. A couple of our daily riders used it for over a year without any negative effects. But we're going to assume that, if you are reading this, you are a relatively new rider. As such, we recommend that you play it safe and stick to the non-EC type.

	That doesn't mean you have to use oil that is labeled for motorcycles, though. When you're out buying oil, look on the back of the bottle for the [http://www.api.org/aboutoilgas/motoroil/api-quality-marks.cfm American Petroleum Institute's] "donut". Oil that is energy conserving will say so in the bottom half, as in the first two examples here:		That doesn't mean you have to use oil that is labeled for motorcycles, though. When you're out buying oil, look on the back of the bottle for the [http://www.api.org/aboutoilgas/motoroil/api-quality-marks.cfm American Petroleum Institute's] "donut". Oil that is energy conserving will say so in the bottom half, as in the first two examples here:

Bokonon at 10:05, 25 July 2010

2010-07-25T10:05:08Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 06:05, 25 July 2010
Line 2:		Line 2:
	'''Q''': Are there preferred brands of oil for motorcycle use?		'''Q''': Are there preferred brands of oil for motorcycle use?

	'''A''': Not really. The two most important rules when it comes to oil are: 1. Make sure there is enough in the engine. 2. Change it regularly. What you change it with or what specific change interval you use are secondary. Pick a quality, name-brand oil with the correct viscosity for your climate (5w-40 up to ~~20w~~-50 - see your owners manual). It can be for either autos or motos.		'''A''': Not really. The two most important rules when it comes to oil are: 1. Make sure there is enough in the engine. 2. Change it regularly. What you change it with or what specific change interval you use are secondary. Pick a quality, name-brand oil with the correct viscosity for your climate (5W-40 up to 20W-50; see your owners manual). It can be for either autos or motos.

	Keep in mind that nearly everyone who has run motorcycles for a long time uses [[When can I change to synthetic oil?\|synthetic oil]], but you shouldn't use it until the engine is broken in. Until then, use a quality brand and change it more frequently than the manual calls for.		Keep in mind that nearly everyone who has run motorcycles for a long time uses [[When can I change to synthetic oil?\|synthetic oil]], but you shouldn't use it until the engine is broken in. Until then, use a quality brand and change it more frequently than the manual calls for.