Repacking a Muzzy - Revision history

Bokonon at 09:15, 17 February 2010

2010-02-17T09:15:18Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 05:15, 17 February 2010
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	[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_5.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_5.jpg\|150px]]

	4. Clean off the baffle, and lay out your new packing materials. You'll need one or two packages of [http://www.~~transworldmotocross~~.com/~~mx/product_reviews/article/0,13190,1105548,00~~.html Silent Sport] or similar packing material (available at any local dirtbike shop), a roll of steel wool, and some picture hanging wire or similar wire.		4. Clean off the baffle, and lay out your new packing materials. You'll need one or two packages of [http://www.areapnolimits.com/silentsport.html Silent Sport] or similar packing material (available at any local dirtbike shop), a roll of steel wool, and some picture hanging wire or similar wire.

	[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_6.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_6.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon at 01:20, 24 October 2007

2007-10-24T01:20:18Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 21:20, 23 October 2007
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	[[Category:Exhaust]]		[[Category:Exhaust]]
	~~This~~ is ~~not~~ a ~~difficult process~~, ~~but~~ it ~~will require some careful use of a few tools,~~ and ~~'delicate force' to disassemble/reassemble the pipe~~.		There is a kit available from [http://muzzys.com/ Muzzys] for repacking the insulation material in your muffler. It's about $25. You'll need a pop rivet tool (about $10) and rivets (1/8" diameter, ~3/8" length) to put it all back together. The end caps are stainless steel and are reused.

	1. ~~remove~~ the canister from the header, and use a 1/8" drill to remove the old rivets from the endcap closest to the header (this endcap is out of sight if you damage it, and has a little more to grab on to when you pull it).		The repair kit consists of the perforated inner tube wrapped in fiberglass. If you could get the right fiberglass material from a muffler shop or auto parts store, there is no reason you couldn't just replace this bit. Look for material for automotive glass pack mufflers.

			What you'll most likely see when you open up the can is that what little fiberglass is left in it has settled to the bottom half, so there is no sound absorbing material at all in the top half. (And you were wondering why it was so loud.) With the new packing, the bike should be quite a bit quieter than it was. Still loud, but tolerable.

			To install this, you have to drill out the rivets and remove the end cap (sounds simple, but it's awkward and takes a bit of 'delicate force'. One member recommended seeing if Muzzy would do this for you.)

			Only one end cap needs to come off, and the engine side cap is easier to get off, since the mounting hardware provides something to pull on.

			====Steps====

			1. Remove the canister from the header, and use an 1/8" drill bit to remove the old rivets from the endcap closest to the header (this endcap is out of sight if you damage it, and has a little more to grab on to when you pull it).

	[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_1.jpg\|150px]] [[Image:Muzzy_Repack_2.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_1.jpg\|150px]] [[Image:Muzzy_Repack_2.jpg\|150px]]

	2. ~~carefully~~ pull the endcap off. ~~this~~ will likely take a decent amount of force; try to use equal force around the endcap so as not to damage it. ~~with~~ the endcap off, you can look inside the canister and see what's left.		2. Carefully pull the endcap off. This will likely take a decent amount of force; try to use equal force around the endcap so as not to damage it. With the endcap off, you can look inside the canister and see what's left.

	[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_3.jpg\|150px]] [[Image:Muzzy_Repack_4.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_3.jpg\|150px]] [[Image:Muzzy_Repack_4.jpg\|150px]]

	3. ~~now~~ pull the baffle out, along with the remaining packing. in the ~~pic~~ below, about 1/2 of the packing was gone after ~~10k~~ miles ~~using the repacking method described later in this article~~. ~~when i~~ repacked ~~my muzzy~~ the first time (the packing having been done by ~~muzzy~~ at the factory), there was only 1/3 of the packing left after 8k miles.		3. Now, pull the baffle out, along with the remaining packing. In the picture below, about 1/2 of the packing was gone after 10,000 miles. When repacked the first time (the packing having been done by Muzzy at the factory), there was only 1/3 of the packing left after 8000 miles.

	[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_5.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_5.jpg\|150px]]

	4. ~~clean~~ off the baffle, and ~~layout~~ your new packing materials. ~~you~~'ll need one or two packages of ~~silent sport~~ or similar packing material (available at any local dirtbike shop), a roll of steel wool, and some picture hanging wire or similar wire.		4. Clean off the baffle, and lay out your new packing materials. You'll need one or two packages of [http://www.transworldmotocross.com/mx/product_reviews/article/0,13190,1105548,00.html Silent Sport] or similar packing material (available at any local dirtbike shop), a roll of steel wool, and some picture hanging wire or similar wire.

	[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_6.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_6.jpg\|150px]]

	5. ~~first~~ wrap the baffle in steel wool blankets, unwrapped from the roll. ~~this~~ will keep the ~~fibreglass~~ packing from breaking up as quickly from heat cycling. it will also prevent the packing from leaving the pipe very soon after it begins to break up.		5. First, wrap the baffle in steel wool blankets, unwrapped from the roll. This will keep the fiberglass packing from breaking up as quickly from heat cycling. It will also prevent the packing from leaving the pipe very soon after it begins to break up.

	[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_7.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_7.jpg\|150px]]

	6. ~~then~~ wrap the pipe in one or two sheets of ~~fibreglass~~ packing, depending on how much sound deadening you want. ~~each layer less insulating ability to the baffle than the last, so keep that in mind if you're thinking about squeezing more than 2 layers on. use~~ the picture wire to tie down the packing material, so it stays in place while you pack the canister with it, and so further reduce packing breakup once in use.		6. Then wrap the pipe in one or two sheets of fiberglass packing, depending on how much sound deadening you want. Use the picture wire to tie down the packing material, so it stays in place while you pack the canister with it, and to further reduce packing breakup once in use.

	[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_8.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_8.jpg\|150px]]

	7. ~~slowly~~ insert the new baffle core into the canister, making sure the packing doesn't bind as it is inserted. ~~wiggle~~ the core around in the pipe once fully inserted to mate the core with the far endcap. ~~replace~~ the front endcap, lining up the clamp with the downturn in the pipe on the other endcap. ~~it make~~ help to tap it into place with a rubber mallet, but do not use much force. ~~use~~ new 1/8" (3 mm) short aluminum or stainless steel rivets and a pop-rivet tool ($10) to secure it. ~~the~~ aluminum rivets will be easier to drill out next time, but they may also vibrate loose between repackings.		7. Slowly insert the new baffle core into the canister, making sure the packing doesn't bind as it is inserted. Wiggle the core around in the pipe once fully inserted to mate the core with the far endcap. Replace the front endcap, lining up the clamp with the downturn in the pipe on the other endcap. It may help to tap it into place with a rubber mallet, but do not use much force. Use new 1/8" (3 mm) short aluminum or stainless steel rivets and a pop-rivet tool ($10) to secure it. The aluminum rivets will be easier to drill out next time, but they may also vibrate loose between repackings.

	[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_9.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_9.jpg\|150px]]

	If the pipe is not quiet enough for you, you can order a new baffle from ~~muzzy~~ that has a smaller core. This will reduce pipe performance slightly, however, and may require a rejet.		If the pipe is not quiet enough for you, you can order a new baffle (Quiet Core) from Muzzy that has a smaller core. This will reduce pipe performance slightly, however, and may require a rejet.

Bokonon at 06:37, 30 May 2006

2006-05-30T06:37:00Z

New page

[[Category:Exhaust]]
This is not a difficult process, but it will require some careful use of a few tools, and 'delicate force' to disassemble/reassemble the pipe.

1. remove the canister from the header, and use a 1/8" drill to remove the old rivets from the endcap closest to the header (this endcap is out of sight if you damage it, and has a little more to grab on to when you pull it).

[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_1.jpg|150px]] [[Image:Muzzy_Repack_2.jpg|150px]]

2. carefully pull the endcap off. this will likely take a decent amount of force; try to use equal force around the endcap so as not to damage it. with the endcap off, you can look inside the canister and see what's left.

[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_3.jpg|150px]] [[Image:Muzzy_Repack_4.jpg|150px]]

3. now pull the baffle out, along with the remaining packing. in the pic below, about 1/2 of the packing was gone after 10k miles using the repacking method described later in this article. when i repacked my muzzy the first time (the packing having been done by muzzy at the factory), there was only 1/3 of the packing left after 8k miles.

[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_5.jpg|150px]]

4. clean off the baffle, and layout your new packing materials. you'll need one or two packages of silent sport or similar packing material (available at any local dirtbike shop), a roll of steel wool, and some picture hanging wire or similar wire.

[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_6.jpg|150px]]

5. first wrap the baffle in steel wool blankets, unwrapped from the roll. this will keep the fibreglass packing from breaking up as quickly from heat cycling. it will also prevent the packing from leaving the pipe very soon after it begins to break up.

[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_7.jpg|150px]]

6. then wrap the pipe in one or two sheets of fibreglass packing, depending on how much sound deadening you want. each layer less insulating ability to the baffle than the last, so keep that in mind if you're thinking about squeezing more than 2 layers on. use the picture wire to tie down the packing material, so it stays in place while you pack the canister with it, and so further reduce packing breakup once in use.

[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_8.jpg|150px]]

7. slowly insert the new baffle core into the canister, making sure the packing doesn't bind as it is inserted. wiggle the core around in the pipe once fully inserted to mate the core with the far endcap. replace the front endcap, lining up the clamp with the downturn in the pipe on the other endcap. it make help to tap it into place with a rubber mallet, but do not use much force. use new 1/8" (3 mm) short aluminum or stainless steel rivets and a pop-rivet tool ($10) to secure it. the aluminum rivets will be easier to drill out next time, but they may also vibrate loose between repackings.

[[Image:Muzzy_Repack_9.jpg|150px]]

If the pipe is not quiet enough for you, you can order a new baffle from muzzy that has a smaller core. This will reduce pipe performance slightly, however, and may require a rejet.