Servicing the swingarm - Revision history

Bokonon: /* Procedure */

2012-05-26T22:04:43Z

Procedure

← Older revision		Revision as of 18:04, 26 May 2012
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	Remove the rubber chain guard from the swingarm. Wipe off any crud from it and the swingarm. If you are planning to re-paint the swingarm when you see how horrible it looks, Duplicolor [http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HWP101-Silver-Performance-Wheel/dp/B000B6DFZ0 silver wheel paint], available at fine Wal-Mart stores everywhere, is a perfect match.		Remove the rubber chain guard from the swingarm. Wipe off any crud from it and the swingarm. If you are planning to re-paint the swingarm when you see how horrible it looks, Duplicolor [http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HWP101-Silver-Performance-Wheel/dp/B000B6DFZ0 silver wheel paint], available at fine Wal-Mart stores everywhere, is a perfect match.

	7) Remove the plastic rings from either end of the pivot shaft and clean them. They pop out easily with your fingernails.		7) Remove the plastic rings from either end of the pivot shaft sleeve and clean them. They pop out easily with your fingernails.

	8) Remove the pivot shaft from the front of the swingarm by sliding it out one end.		8) Remove the pivot shaft sleeve from the front of the swingarm by sliding it out one end.

	9) Wash the pivot shaft, pivot shaft sleeve, and needle bearings with kerosene and dry thoroughly.		9) Wash the pivot shaft, pivot shaft sleeve, and needle bearings with kerosene and dry thoroughly.

Bokonon: /* Procedure */

2011-11-05T07:19:02Z

Procedure

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:19, 5 November 2011
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	[[Image:wheelremoved.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:wheelremoved.jpg\|150px]]

	3) Remove the nuts from the swingarm pivot (22mm), lower shock mount (19mm) and upper tie rod arms (19mm), but do not remove the bolts or pivot shaft. The easiest way to remove the 19mm nuts is to "lock" them in place with a 19mm open-~~ended~~ wrench, then spin their corresponding bolt heads with a 17mm socket, extension, and breaker bar (or ratchet + piece of pipe).		3) Remove the nuts from the swingarm pivot (22mm), lower shock mount (19mm) and upper tie rod arms (19mm), but do not remove the bolts or pivot shaft. The easiest way to remove the 19mm nuts is to "lock" them in place with a 19mm open-end wrench, then spin their corresponding bolt heads with a 17mm socket, extension, and breaker bar (or ratchet + piece of pipe).

	[[Image:swingarmclose.jpg\|150px]] [[Image:pivotnutremoved.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:swingarmclose.jpg\|150px]] [[Image:pivotnutremoved.jpg\|150px]]

Bokonon: /* Tools and supplies */

2011-11-05T07:13:15Z

Tools and supplies

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:13, 5 November 2011
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	:This grease is an excellent choice; it is a lithium soap and contains molybdenum disulphide:		:This grease is an excellent choice; it is a lithium soap and contains molybdenum disulphide:

	:[[Image:grease2.jpg\|120px]][[Image:grease.jpg\|120px]]		:[[Image:grease2.jpg\|120px]] [[Image:grease.jpg\|120px]]

	*O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative that these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad.		*O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative that these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad.

Bokonon: /* Tools and supplies */

2011-11-05T07:10:51Z

Tools and supplies

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:10, 5 November 2011
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	:Kerosene is findable more easily in some places than others. Try a mom & pop hardware store or the camping section at Big Box, Inc. Or you can use one of the many alternatives: automotive parts cleaner, carb cleaner, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, WD-40, electrical contact cleaner, diesel (stinky) or Simple Green.		:Kerosene is findable more easily in some places than others. Try a mom & pop hardware store or the camping section at Big Box, Inc. Or you can use one of the many alternatives: automotive parts cleaner, carb cleaner, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, WD-40, electrical contact cleaner, diesel (stinky) or Simple Green.

	*Molybdenum ~~disulfide~~ ("~~Moly~~") grease - ~~any~~ high-pressure bearing grease will do. However, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice). The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications. It reduces wear by plating the bearing needles.		*Molybdenum disulphide ("moly") grease - Any high-pressure bearing grease will do. However, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice. The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications. It reduces wear by plating the bearing needles.

	:This grease ~~should be~~ an excellent choice; it is a lithium soap and it contains molybdenum disulphide:		:This grease is an excellent choice; it is a lithium soap and contains molybdenum disulphide:

	:[[Image:grease2.jpg\|120px]][[Image:grease.jpg\|120px]]		:[[Image:grease2.jpg\|120px]][[Image:grease.jpg\|120px]]

	*O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but ~~there's a bunch, and~~ stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad.		*O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative that these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad.

	==Procedure==		==Procedure==

Bokonon: /* Tools and supplies */

2011-11-05T07:06:33Z

Tools and supplies

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:06, 5 November 2011
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	==Tools and supplies==		==Tools and supplies==

	*~~22mm~~, ~~19mm~~, ~~17mm~~, ~~14mm~~, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-end wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-end (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.		*22, 19, 17, 14, and 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle, and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-end wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-end (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.

	*Plenty of clean, lint-free rags		*Plenty of clean, lint-free rags

Bokonon: /* Tools and supplies */

2011-11-05T07:04:18Z

Tools and supplies

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:04, 5 November 2011
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	==Tools and supplies==		==Tools and supplies==

	*22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-~~ended~~ wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-~~ended wrench~~ (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.		*22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-end wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-end (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.

	*Plenty of clean, lint-free rags		*Plenty of clean, lint-free rags

Bokonon: /* Tools and supplies */

2011-11-05T07:02:59Z

Tools and supplies

← Older revision		Revision as of 03:02, 5 November 2011
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	*22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-ended wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-ended wrench (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.		*22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-ended wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-ended wrench (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier.
	*Kerosene (or low flash point solvent) and a kerosene-safe container
	*Plenty of clean, lint-free rags		*Plenty of clean, lint-free rags

	*[[Torque Values\|Torque Values list]]		*[[Torque Values\|Torque Values list]]

			*Kerosene (or low flash point solvent) and a kerosene-safe container

			:Kerosene is findable more easily in some places than others. Try a mom & pop hardware store or the camping section at Big Box, Inc. Or you can use one of the many alternatives: automotive parts cleaner, carb cleaner, mineral spirits, lacquer thinner, WD-40, electrical contact cleaner, diesel (stinky) or Simple Green.

	*Molybdenum disulfide ("Moly") grease - any high-pressure bearing grease will do. However, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice). The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications. It reduces wear by plating the bearing needles.		*Molybdenum disulfide ("Moly") grease - any high-pressure bearing grease will do. However, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice). The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications. It reduces wear by plating the bearing needles.

Bokonon at 06:47, 5 November 2011

2011-11-05T06:47:05Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:47, 5 November 2011
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	*O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but there's a bunch, and stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad.		*O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but there's a bunch, and stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad.

	==~~Get started~~==		==Procedure==

	Make sure you use cheap labor as much as possible. Why should you get your hands any dirtier? They may even appreciate the bonding experience... in 15 or 20 years. If cheap labour is unavailable, blue nitrile gloves make an excellent alternative.		Make sure you use cheap labor as much as possible. Why should you get your hands any dirtier? They may even appreciate the bonding experience... in 15 or 20 years. If cheap labour is unavailable, blue nitrile gloves make an excellent alternative.

Bokonon at 06:46, 5 November 2011

2011-11-05T06:46:11Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 02:46, 5 November 2011
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	This is an important, but often neglected, part of your bike's maintenance. One reason that this operation is so important is that Kawasaki is sometimes stingy with the grease in this area. (One member said the factory lube felt like a light coating of machine oil.) If you let it go too long, the lack of lubrication could lead to dried-out and/or rusty swingarm bearings. Poor swingarm lubrication can lead to corroded parts, excess or inconsistent rear suspension damping, limited suspension travel, and a creaking sound which is particularly pronounced mounting and dismounting the motorcycle. The service schedule specifies lubrication of the swingarm pivot every 6000 miles.		This is an important, but often neglected, part of your bike's maintenance. One reason that this operation is so important is that Kawasaki is sometimes stingy with the grease in this area. (One member said the factory lube felt like a light coating of machine oil.) If you let it go too long, the lack of lubrication could lead to dried-out and/or rusty swingarm bearings. Poor swingarm lubrication can lead to corroded parts, excess or inconsistent rear suspension damping, limited suspension travel, and a creaking sound which is particularly pronounced mounting and dismounting the motorcycle. The service schedule specifies lubrication of the swingarm pivot every 6000 miles.

	'''Please note''': The service schedule calls for the [[Uni Trak Shock Linkage Lubrication\|suspension linkage ~~inspection/~~lubrication]] to be done at the same time as the swingarm service.		'''Please note''': The service schedule calls for the [[Uni Trak Shock Linkage Lubrication\|suspension linkage lubrication]] to be done at the same time as the swingarm service.

	==Tools and supplies==		==Tools and supplies==

Bokonon at 08:36, 4 November 2011

2011-11-04T08:36:20Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 04:36, 4 November 2011
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	[[Image:swingarmoff.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:swingarmoff.jpg\|150px]]

	Remove the rubber chain guard from the swingarm. Wipe off any crud from it and the swingarm. If you are planning to re-paint the swingarm when you see how horrible it looks, Duplicolor silver wheel paint, available at fine Wal-Mart stores everywhere, is a perfect match.		Remove the rubber chain guard from the swingarm. Wipe off any crud from it and the swingarm. If you are planning to re-paint the swingarm when you see how horrible it looks, Duplicolor [http://www.amazon.com/Dupli-Color-HWP101-Silver-Performance-Wheel/dp/B000B6DFZ0 silver wheel paint], available at fine Wal-Mart stores everywhere, is a perfect match.

	7) Remove the plastic rings from either end of the pivot shaft and clean them. They pop out easily with your fingernails.		7) Remove the plastic rings from either end of the pivot shaft and clean them. They pop out easily with your fingernails.

	8) Remove the pivot shaft from the front of the swingarm by sliding it out one end ~~of the front of the swingarm~~.		8) Remove the pivot shaft from the front of the swingarm by sliding it out one end.

	9) Wash the pivot shaft, pivot shaft sleeve, and needle bearings with kerosene and dry thoroughly.		9) Wash the pivot shaft, pivot shaft sleeve, and needle bearings with kerosene and dry thoroughly.
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	[[Image:dirtyneedlebearings.jpg\|150px]] [[Image:cleanishneedlebearings.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:dirtyneedlebearings.jpg\|150px]] [[Image:cleanishneedlebearings.jpg\|150px]]

	11) After all parts are dry, inspect for wear or damage. Minor wear signs are normal, but discoloration of the shaft or bearings is not. ~~This~~ discoloration isn't a problem - it's an indicator. You have too much heat because you have too little lube.		11) After all parts are dry, inspect for wear or damage. Minor wear signs are normal, but discoloration of the shaft or bearings is not. The discoloration below isn't a problem - it's an indicator. You have too much heat because you have too little lube.

	[[Image:000_0334.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:000_0334.jpg\|150px]]

	If you have rust, such as in these photos, you have a problem. For very light surface rust, or if you are really cheap and not particularly concerned with your safety, you can sand down the shaft and hope for the best. '''The real answer''' is to replace the rusty parts. You can probably find them on eBay, or in a motorcycle [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?\|wrecking yard]]. The parts can also be purchased new from the usual sources.		If you have rust, such as in these photos, you have a problem. For very light surface rust, or if you are really cheap and not particularly concerned with your safety, you can sand down the shaft and hope for the best. '''The real answer''' is to replace the rusty parts. You can probably find them on eBay, or in a motorcycle [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?\|wrecking yard]]. The parts can also be purchased new from the [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?\|usual sources]].

	[[Image:000_0333.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:000_0333.jpg\|150px]]
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	[[Image:swarmpivot3.jpg\|150px]]		[[Image:swarmpivot3.jpg\|150px]]

	12) If bearings, sleeve or shaft need replacing, ''replace the bearings and sleeve as a unit.''		12) If bearings, sleeve, or shaft need replacing, ''replace the bearings and sleeve as a unit.''

	13) If everything is okay, [[Greasing the axles & wheel bearings\|pack the bearings]] with moly grease with your finger. Use lots of grease; there is plenty of room inside the swingarm. Lightly grease the pivot sleeve and ~~re-install~~ through the bearings. ~~Re-install~~ the plastic rings after wiping any crud off of them.		13) If everything is okay, [[Greasing the axles & wheel bearings\|pack the bearings]] with moly grease with your finger. Use lots of grease; there is plenty of room inside the swingarm. Lightly grease the pivot sleeve and reinstall it through the bearings. Reinstall the plastic rings after wiping any crud off of them.

	14) Reinstall the swingarm by supporting the swingarm with one hand and feeding the pivot shaft through from the right side of the bike. '''Be sure''' the rubber chain guard is on the swingarm before doing this. Also make sure the chain is installed. Those two things are easily forgotten and are a major time-suck to take apart again if you forget. Put the nut on the swingarm shaft a few turns, but do not tighten.		14) Reinstall the swingarm by supporting the swingarm with one hand and feeding the pivot shaft through from the right side of the bike. '''Be sure''' the rubber chain guard is on the swingarm before doing this. Also make sure the chain is installed. Those two things are easily forgotten and are a major time-suck to take apart again if you forget. Put the nut on the swingarm shaft a few turns, but do not tighten.
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	18) Reinstall the mufflers.		18) Reinstall the mufflers.

	19) Test ~~Ride~~ with a smile of satisfaction.		19) Test ride with a smile of satisfaction.