Steering head bearing replacement - Revision history

Bokonon: /* How to tell if your bearings need looking at */

2012-05-18T17:19:14Z

How to tell if your bearings need looking at

← Older revision		Revision as of 13:19, 18 May 2012
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	It takes a huge problem to feel anything while riding, so to check your bearings you need to get the front wheel [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing\|in the air]]. Turn the bars from side to side with the wheel off the ground and feel for any slight notches. There should be no hesitation when turning the bars from side to side. If there's even the slightest notch or hesitation, they need greasing (at least).		It takes a huge problem to feel anything while riding, so to check your bearings you need to get the front wheel [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing\|in the air]]. Turn the bars from side to side with the wheel off the ground and feel for any slight notches. There should be no hesitation when turning the bars from side to side. If there's even the slightest notch or hesitation, they need greasing (at least).

			To check for proper steering head tightness: With the wheel still in the air, grab the black part of the forks near the wheel (lower fork legs). Try to move them forward and backward. They should not move. If you have movement, chances are the steering head bearings are loose and need to be adjusted, and probably greased.

	==Disassembly==		==Disassembly==

Bokonon: /* Finishing up */

2011-04-12T05:52:41Z

Finishing up

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:52, 12 April 2011
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	If you're using OEM bearings, torque the stem nut once to 14 ft-lbs to seat the bearings, then back it off so there is no preload.		If you're using OEM bearings, torque the stem nut once to 14 ft-lbs to seat the bearings, then back it off so there is no preload.

	Now you have to adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser.		Now you have to adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser. Torque the stem head bolt to 35 ft-lbs.

	Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel\|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values\|to spec]]~~. Torque the stem head bolt to 35 ft-lbs~~. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.		Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel\|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values\|to spec]]. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.

	Go for a very quick test ride, then check the torque on everything again. Recheck the stem head bolt torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.		Go for a very quick test ride, then check the torque on everything again. Recheck the stem head bolt torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.

Bokonon: /* Stuff that has to be removed */

2011-04-12T05:42:57Z

Stuff that has to be removed

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:42, 12 April 2011
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	You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|Removing the tank]] is optional, but a really good idea. As you did while testing, find a good method of [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing\|propping the front end]]. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere.		You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|Removing the tank]] is optional, but a really good idea. As you did while testing, find a good method of [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing\|propping the front end]]. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere.

	It is ''highly'' recommended to loosen the stem head bolt while the front of the bike is still on the ground.		It is ''highly'' recommended to loosen the stem head bolt (and other bolts) while the front of the bike is still on the ground. Turn the bars to their lock to the left. It will likely take a lot of force to loosen this bolt. A regular short ratchet will probably not work. Try a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_should_a_good_set_of_tools_include%3F#Breaker_bar breaker bar] with a length of pipe as an extension.

	These things need to be removed:		These things need to be removed:
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	* Disconnect the horn connectors and unbolt the horn.		* Disconnect the horn connectors and unbolt the horn.

	~~To remove~~ the stem head bolt, turn the bars to their lock to the left. It will likely take a lot of force to loosen this bolt. A regular short ratchet will probably not work. Try a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_should_a_good_set_of_tools_include%3F#Breaker_bar breaker bar] with a length of pipe as an extension.		Remove the stem head bolt that you already loosened. The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. To remove the nut, use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload. An [http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench adjustable spanner] like the one on the right should be usable for other tasks.

	The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. To remove the nut, use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload. An [http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench adjustable spanner] like the one on the right should be usable for other tasks.

	:[[image:shock spanner.jpg\|150px]] [[image:adjustable shock spanner.gif\|115px]]		:[[image:shock spanner.jpg\|150px]] [[image:adjustable shock spanner.gif\|115px]]

Bokonon: /* Finishing up */

2011-04-12T05:33:01Z

Finishing up

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:33, 12 April 2011
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	Tighten the stem nut up VERY tight, as hard as you think you can and still get it off. You are trying to seat the bearings, and you want maximum compression on all the bearings. Loosen it off until you can turn the triple tree freely.		Tighten the stem nut up VERY tight, as hard as you think you can and still get it off. You are trying to seat the bearings, and you want maximum compression on all the bearings. Loosen it off until you can turn the triple tree freely.

			If you're using OEM bearings, torque the stem nut once to 14 ft-lbs to seat the bearings, then back it off so there is no preload.

	Now you have to adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser.		Now you have to adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser.

	Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel\|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values\|to spec]]. ~~Snug~~ the ~~top~~ stem bolt. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.		Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel\|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values\|to spec]]. Torque the stem head bolt to 35 ft-lbs. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.

	Go for a very quick test ride, then check the torque on everything again. Recheck the stem ~~nut~~ torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.		Go for a very quick test ride, then check the torque on everything again. Recheck the stem head bolt torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.

Bokonon: /* Stuff that has to be removed */

2011-04-12T05:28:09Z

Stuff that has to be removed

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:28, 12 April 2011
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	You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|Removing the tank]] is optional, but a really good idea. As you did while testing, find a good method of [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing\|propping the front end]]. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere.		You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?\|Removing the tank]] is optional, but a really good idea. As you did while testing, find a good method of [[Supporting Your Bike While Servicing\|propping the front end]]. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere.

			It is ''highly'' recommended to loosen the stem head bolt while the front of the bike is still on the ground.

	These things need to be removed:		These things need to be removed:
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	* Disconnect the horn connectors and unbolt the horn.		* Disconnect the horn connectors and unbolt the horn.

	~~Remove~~ the stem ~~lock~~ bolt ~~by turning~~ the bars to their lock to the left ~~and then using~~ a ~~wrench~~. The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. To remove the nut, use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload. An [http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench adjustable spanner] like the one on the right should be usable for other tasks.		To remove the stem head bolt, turn the bars to their lock to the left. It will likely take a lot of force to loosen this bolt. A regular short ratchet will probably not work. Try a [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/What_should_a_good_set_of_tools_include%3F#Breaker_bar breaker bar] with a length of pipe as an extension.

			The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. To remove the nut, use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload. An [http://www.bikebandit.com/drag-specialties-shock-spanner-wrench adjustable spanner] like the one on the right should be usable for other tasks.

	:[[image:shock spanner.jpg\|150px]] [[image:adjustable shock spanner.gif\|115px]]		:[[image:shock spanner.jpg\|150px]] [[image:adjustable shock spanner.gif\|115px]]

Bokonon: /* Disassembly */

2011-04-12T05:16:16Z

Disassembly

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:16, 12 April 2011
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	==Disassembly==		==Disassembly==

	If you think there is a problem after you do the testing, you're going to have to take apart the front of your bike to get at the bearings. If they feel pretty bad, you might want to order parts before you do this. If you just want to lube the bearings, the directions are basically the same, except for removing & replacing the bearings and races.		If you think there is a problem after you do the testing, you're going to have to take apart the front of your bike to get at the bearings. If they feel pretty bad, you might want to order parts before you do this.

			If you just want to lube the bearings, the directions are basically the same, except for removing & replacing the bearings and races.

			If all you're doing is adjusting the stem nut, you don't have to actually remove the upper triple. The adjusting nut will turn fairly easily once the clamping pressure is removed by loosening the stem head bolt.

	If your races are notched, dented, or otherwise not smooth inside, you should replace them. Check to see that the bearings are in good shape and not pitted. If they just need to be lubed, lube them up and put everything back together.		If your races are notched, dented, or otherwise not smooth inside, you should replace them. Check to see that the bearings are in good shape and not pitted. If they just need to be lubed, lube them up and put everything back together.
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	[[image:824526.jpg\|100px]]		[[image:824526.jpg\|100px]]

	"Lock nut" is a bit of a confusing name (though that's what Kawasaki calls it). It's really the adjustment nut for the preload (pressure) on the bearings. It doesn't really lock anything, since it's not really tight. We'll call it the 'stem nut' from here forward. The stem head bolt clamps the upper triple tree against the stem ~~adjusting~~ nut to hold the adjustment.		"Lock nut" is a bit of a confusing name (though that's what Kawasaki calls it). It's really the adjustment nut for the preload (pressure) on the bearings. It doesn't really lock anything, since it's not really tight. We'll call it the 'stem nut' from here forward. The stem head bolt clamps the upper triple tree against the stem nut to hold the adjustment.

	====OEM bearings====		====OEM bearings====

Bokonon: /* Diagram and explanation */

2011-04-12T05:12:07Z

Diagram and explanation

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:12, 12 April 2011
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	[[image:824526.jpg\|100px]]		[[image:824526.jpg\|100px]]

	"Lock nut" is a bit of a confusing name (though that's what Kawasaki calls it). It's really the adjustment nut for the preload (pressure) on the bearings. It doesn't really lock anything, since it's not really tight. The stem head bolt clamps the upper triple tree against the stem adjusting nut to hold the adjustment.		"Lock nut" is a bit of a confusing name (though that's what Kawasaki calls it). It's really the adjustment nut for the preload (pressure) on the bearings. It doesn't really lock anything, since it's not really tight. We'll call it the 'stem nut' from here forward. The stem head bolt clamps the upper triple tree against the stem adjusting nut to hold the adjustment.

	====OEM bearings====		====OEM bearings====

Bokonon: /* Diagram and explanation */

2011-04-12T05:09:14Z

Diagram and explanation

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:09, 12 April 2011
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	This is what the steering head of your bike looks like when you take it apart:		This is what the steering head of your bike looks like when you take it apart:

	[[image:824526.jpg\|~~150px~~]]		[[image:824526.jpg\|100px]]

	"Lock nut" is a bit of a confusing name (though that's what Kawasaki calls it). It's really the adjustment nut for the preload (pressure) on the bearings. It doesn't really lock anything, since it's not really tight. The stem head bolt clamps the upper triple tree against the stem adjusting nut to hold the adjustment.		"Lock nut" is a bit of a confusing name (though that's what Kawasaki calls it). It's really the adjustment nut for the preload (pressure) on the bearings. It doesn't really lock anything, since it's not really tight. The stem head bolt clamps the upper triple tree against the stem adjusting nut to hold the adjustment.

Bokonon: /* Diagram and explanation */

2011-04-12T05:08:53Z

Diagram and explanation

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:08, 12 April 2011
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	[[image:824526.jpg\|150px]]		[[image:824526.jpg\|150px]]

			"Lock nut" is a bit of a confusing name (though that's what Kawasaki calls it). It's really the adjustment nut for the preload (pressure) on the bearings. It doesn't really lock anything, since it's not really tight. The stem head bolt clamps the upper triple tree against the stem adjusting nut to hold the adjustment.

	====OEM bearings====		====OEM bearings====

Bokonon at 05:06, 12 April 2011

2011-04-12T05:06:01Z

← Older revision		Revision as of 01:06, 12 April 2011
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	If your races are notched, dented, or otherwise not smooth inside, you should replace them. Check to see that the bearings are in good shape and not pitted. If they just need to be lubed, lube them up and put everything back together.		If your races are notched, dented, or otherwise not smooth inside, you should replace them. Check to see that the bearings are in good shape and not pitted. If they just need to be lubed, lube them up and put everything back together.

			====Diagram and explanation====

			This is what the steering head of your bike looks like when you take it apart:

			[[image:824526.jpg\|150px]]

	====OEM bearings====		====OEM bearings====