Hauling on a trailer: Difference between revisions
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A note on '''[http://www.canyondancer.com/ Canyon Dancers]''' ties from [http://www.ninja250.org/Craig Craig]: I do tech at track days, and there are always several bikes that come through with messed up sticking throttles. Yup, they all used a Canyon Dancer. | |||
====Loading the bike onto the trailer==== | ====Loading the bike onto the trailer==== | ||
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On the brake side, repeat the process until the helper feels the bike move the other way. | On the brake side, repeat the process until the helper feels the bike move the other way. | ||
On some trailers (rentals especially) the front tie down points may simply be a rail. If this is the case, you will need to brace the tie so that it can not slide down along the rail. Tie a bowline around the line as it feeds over the rail. Run the tail of the bowline to the wall of the trailer or some other tie point that can be used as an anchor. At this point, tie a [http:// | On some trailers (rentals especially) the front tie down points may simply be a rail. If this is the case, you will need to brace the tie so that it can not slide down along the rail. Tie a bowline around the line as it feeds over the rail. Run the tail of the bowline to the wall of the trailer or some other tie point that can be used as an anchor. At this point, tie a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Trucker%27s_hitch trucker's hitch] and tension the bowline. This means that as you tighten the ratchet strap it can not slide down the rail, as the rope is securing it. | ||
Ensure that the front wheel is straight and the bike is centered and straight. Alternating from side to side, add tension to the ratchets so that the suspension is getting compressed. As you are doing this, make sure that the ratchet straps are not interfering with the plastics. If they are, you have two options: remove the plastics or narrow the tie points. | Ensure that the front wheel is straight and the bike is centered and straight. Alternating from side to side, add tension to the ratchets so that the suspension is getting compressed. As you are doing this, make sure that the ratchet straps are not interfering with the plastics. If they are, you have two options: remove the plastics or narrow the tie points. | ||
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====Alternate front tie points==== | |||
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In some situations, crossing the straps could work better, such as where the tie-down points are too wide or too high and pull significantly on the fairings. For example: If you need to use the normal tie-downs in a truck, halfway up the bed and in the far corners. Crossing the straps there may actually be the best solution. | |||
Loop the straps (via soft-ties) around the forks, just above the lower triple: | |||
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Using soft ties, put the plastic hooks right on the fender. This shouldn't create a lot of pressure, but there could be enough that over time it would wear through the paint. Wrap the hooks in shop rags or towels. This shouldn't cause any problems for short trips, but if you're going a long way, put a couple layers of adhesive shelf liner on the fender so the hooks wear on that, instead of the paint. | |||
====Tying the back end==== | ====Tying the back end==== | ||