How to replace the ignition switch: Difference between revisions

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* Electric hand drill

* 1/4" to 3/8" drill bit

* Centerpunch

* 10mm socket

* 14mm socket

* Socket wrench

* Pliers

* Diagonal cutters or a sharp knife

* Clean rags

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* Screw extractor

* Vice grip style pliers

* Heat gun or propane torch

You will also need the following supplies:

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* Red thread locking compound (high strength)

* Blue thread locking compound (low strength)

* A medium sized black zip tie

===Security Bolts===

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===Procedure===

# Remove the handlebar halves. This entails popping off the little plastic caps which cover the hold-down bolts, and unscrewing the bolts. Put down clean rags to protect your bodywork, and lay each handlebar half to the side. It's fine to let them dangle from their cables, but be gentle with them.

# Remove the gas tank. Undo the four bolts holding the upper fairing to the gas tank, and the four bolts under the seat, holding the gold tank bracket to the frame. Remember to disconnect all hoses from the tank, and set it aside. Keep in mind that it can weigh up to about 35 lbs if it's full of gas, so have a friend handy if you're concerned about lifting that much weight. You might be able to do this without removing the tank, but I personally guarantee it's far easier to remove the tank.

# Remove the upper triple clamp. Use the large crescent wrench on the pivot bolt (the huge bolt in the center of the top triple clamp). Loosen the clamp bolts on each fork leg. If everything is correctly loosened, the clamp should lift off with a little bit of rocking back and forth.

# Unplug the ignition switch. Cut the zip tie holding the wiring for the ignition switch. Disconnect the large plug, and pull the bullet connector apart. The top triple clamp should now be free of the bike.

# Examine the switch attachment. You should see two domed grey fasteners with marred centers, near the bottom of the switch. These are the security bolts, and they're all that's holding the switch to the triple clamp.

# Set up your triple clamp in a vise, with the security bolt heads up. Use wood or plastic to prevent the vise from marring the triple clamp. If you don't have a vise, improvise some way to keep the triple clamp steady so you can drill it. I used a half-full bag of potting soil, which worked surprisingly well.

# Compare your new bolts with your drill bits, and pick a bit which is definitely larger than the widest part of the bolt's shaft. A 1/4" drill bit should be fine. Centerpunch the bolt as close to the center as you can. You may want to do it several times, so the divot is nice and deep.

# Drill into the bolt. Make sure your drill bit is aligned with the bolt's shaft as closely as you can. Drill down until the head separates from the shaft, but no further. If you drill any further, you're reducing the amount of shaft you have available to grab with the vice grip pliers. (Don't ask how I know this.) Try to keep the drill bit centered on the bolt head, although this proved difficult in my case.

# Once both bolt heads are off, pull the old switch off. There should be two bolt stubs sticking up from the triple clamp.

# Lock your vise grip pliers onto the bolt stubs, and try to twist them out. If they just won't budge, <b>stop</b> before you damage the shafts too much. Remove the pliers. Play heat over the shafts, to heat up and soften the thread lock compound. About 20 seconds with a propane torch should be enough. Lock the pliers back on and try again. Keep applying heat until they move. If you apply too much heat, you'll damage the paint on the triple tree, so don't go crazy.

# If for any reason you can't get at the shafts with the vise grips, use a screw extractor to get the bolt stubs out. You <i>must</i> use heat for this method, or you'll damage your screw extractor. Play a propane torch over the bolt for 20 seconds, then use the screw extractor. Follow your extractor's instructions, as there are many different types.

@@ Line 16: / Line 16: @@
 * Electric hand drill
 * 1/4" to 3/8" drill bit
+* Centerpunch
 * 10mm socket
+* 14mm socket
 * Socket wrench
 * Pliers
+* Diagonal cutters or a sharp knife
 * Clean rags
@@ Line 25: / Line 28: @@
 * Screw extractor
 * Vice grip style pliers
+* Heat gun or propane torch
 You will also need the following supplies:
@@ Line 31: / Line 35: @@
 * Red thread locking compound (high strength)
 * Blue thread locking compound (low strength)
+* A medium sized black zip tie
 ===Security Bolts===
@@ Line 41: / Line 46: @@
 ===Procedure===
+# Remove the handlebar halves.  This entails popping off the little plastic caps which cover the hold-down bolts, and unscrewing the bolts.   Put down clean rags to protect your bodywork, and lay each handlebar half to the side.  It's fine to let them dangle from their cables, but be gentle with them.
+# Remove the gas tank.  Undo the four bolts holding the upper fairing to the gas tank, and the four bolts under the seat, holding the gold tank bracket to the frame.  Remember to disconnect all hoses from the tank, and set it aside.  Keep in mind that it can weigh up to about 35 lbs if it's full of gas, so have a friend handy if you're concerned about lifting that much weight.  You might be able to do this without removing the tank, but I personally guarantee it's far easier to remove the tank.
+# Remove the upper triple clamp.  Use the large crescent wrench on the pivot bolt (the huge bolt in the center of the top triple clamp).  Loosen the clamp bolts on each fork leg. If everything is correctly loosened, the clamp should lift off with a little bit of rocking back and forth.
+# Unplug the ignition switch.  Cut the zip tie holding the wiring for the ignition switch.  Disconnect the large plug, and pull the bullet connector apart.  The top triple clamp should now be free of the bike.
+# Examine the switch attachment.  You should see two domed grey fasteners with marred centers, near the bottom of the switch.  These are the security bolts, and they're all that's holding the switch to the triple clamp.
+# Set up your triple clamp in a vise, with the security bolt heads up.  Use wood or plastic to prevent the vise from marring the triple clamp.  If you don't have a vise, improvise some way to keep the triple clamp steady so you can drill it.  I used a half-full bag of potting soil, which worked surprisingly well.
+# Compare your new bolts with your drill bits, and pick a bit which is definitely larger than the widest part of the bolt's shaft.  A 1/4" drill bit should be fine.  Centerpunch the bolt as close to the center as you can.  You may want to do it several times, so the divot is nice and deep.
+# Drill into the bolt.  Make sure your drill bit is aligned with the bolt's shaft as closely as you can.  Drill down until the head separates from the shaft, but no further.  If you drill any further, you're reducing the amount of shaft you have available to grab with the vice grip pliers.  (Don't ask how I know this.)  Try to keep the drill bit centered on the bolt head, although this proved difficult in my case.
+# Once both bolt heads are off, pull the old switch off.  There should be two bolt stubs sticking up from the triple clamp.
+# Lock your vise grip pliers onto the bolt stubs, and try to twist them out.  If they just won't budge, <b>stop</b> before you damage the shafts too much.  Remove the pliers.  Play heat over the shafts, to heat up and soften the thread lock compound.  About 20 seconds with a propane torch should be enough.  Lock the pliers back on and try again.  Keep applying heat until they move.  If you apply too much heat, you'll damage the paint on the triple tree, so don't go crazy.
+# If for any reason you can't get at the shafts with the vise grips, use a screw extractor to get the bolt stubs out.  You <i>must</i> use heat for this method, or you'll damage your screw extractor.  Play a propane torch over the bolt for 20 seconds, then use the screw extractor.  Follow your extractor's instructions, as there are many different types.