How to replace the ignition switch: Difference between revisions

Line 32:

You will also need the following supplies:

* New ignition switch

* 2x M6x16 bolts (see below)

* Red thread locking compound (high strength)

Line 48:

Line 49:

# Remove the handlebar halves. This entails popping off the little plastic caps which cover the hold-down bolts, and unscrewing the bolts. Put down clean rags to protect your bodywork, and lay each handlebar half to the side. It's fine to let them dangle from their cables, but be gentle with them.

# Remove the side panels. Unlock the seat and set it aside. Unscrew each side panel and pop it out of its retainers under the tank and at the rear of each panel. Set them aside.

# Remove the gas tank. Undo the four bolts holding the upper fairing to the gas tank, and the four bolts under the seat, holding the gold tank bracket to the frame. Remember to disconnect all hoses from the tank, and set it aside. Keep in mind that it can weigh up to about 35 lbs if it's full of gas, so have a friend handy if you're concerned about lifting that much weight. You might be able to do this without removing the tank, but I personally guarantee it's far easier to remove the tank.

Line 68:

Line 71:

# If for any reason you can't get at the shafts with the vise grips, use a screw extractor to get the bolt stubs out. You <i>must</i> use heat for this method, or you'll damage your screw extractor. Play a propane torch over the bolt for 20 seconds, then use the screw extractor. Follow your extractor's instructions, as there are many different types.

# Put the new ignition switch in place, and screw it in with your new bolts. Use red thread locking compound on the bolt shafts (because it would just suck if that switch fell off when you were riding; the red stuff is also strong enough to prevent a nefarious someone from easily removing the switch on the bike). Torque isn't critical, just make sure they're tight without going overboard.

# Reconnect the ignition switch to the wiring harness. Plug in the 6-position connector and the bullet connector. If you have it, put dielectric grease on the contacts to prevent corrosion. This isn't critical, but makes the connections last longer, particularly in wet environments.

# Use your new key to turn on the switch, and make sure everything lights up like it should. If not, check the connection and reseat it as necessary.

# Once the switch is fastened to the triple clamp, reassembly is literally the reverse of this procedure. Put the triple clamp back on, clamp it to the fork legs, screw in the pivot bolt. Reconnect the handlebar halves. Reinstall the gas tank (remember that the bigger tube goes to the bigger hose nipple, and don't forget the smaller one).

@@ Line 32: / Line 32: @@
 You will also need the following supplies:
+* New ignition switch
 * 2x M6x16 bolts (see below)
 * Red thread locking compound (high strength)
@@ Line 48: / Line 49: @@
 # Remove the handlebar halves.  This entails popping off the little plastic caps which cover the hold-down bolts, and unscrewing the bolts.   Put down clean rags to protect your bodywork, and lay each handlebar half to the side.  It's fine to let them dangle from their cables, but be gentle with them.
+# Remove the side panels.  Unlock the seat and set it aside.  Unscrew each side panel and pop it out of its retainers under the tank and at the rear of each panel.  Set them aside.
 # Remove the gas tank.  Undo the four bolts holding the upper fairing to the gas tank, and the four bolts under the seat, holding the gold tank bracket to the frame.  Remember to disconnect all hoses from the tank, and set it aside.  Keep in mind that it can weigh up to about 35 lbs if it's full of gas, so have a friend handy if you're concerned about lifting that much weight.  You might be able to do this without removing the tank, but I personally guarantee it's far easier to remove the tank.
@@ Line 68: / Line 71: @@
 # If for any reason you can't get at the shafts with the vise grips, use a screw extractor to get the bolt stubs out.  You <i>must</i> use heat for this method, or you'll damage your screw extractor.  Play a propane torch over the bolt for 20 seconds, then use the screw extractor.  Follow your extractor's instructions, as there are many different types.
+# Put the new ignition switch in place, and screw it in with your new bolts.  Use red thread locking compound on the bolt shafts (because it would just suck if that switch fell off when you were riding; the red stuff is also strong enough to prevent a nefarious someone from easily removing the switch on the bike). Torque isn't critical, just make sure they're tight without going overboard.
+# Reconnect the ignition switch to the wiring harness.  Plug in the 6-position connector and the bullet connector.  If you have it, put dielectric grease on the contacts to prevent corrosion.  This isn't critical, but makes the connections last longer, particularly in wet environments.
+# Use your new key to turn on the switch, and make sure everything lights up like it should.  If not, check the connection and reseat it as necessary.
+# Once the switch is fastened to the triple clamp, reassembly is literally the reverse of this procedure.  Put the triple clamp back on, clamp it to the fork legs, screw in the pivot bolt.  Reconnect the handlebar halves.  Reinstall the gas tank (remember that the bigger tube goes to the bigger hose nipple, and don't forget the smaller one).