How to replace the ignition switch: Difference between revisions

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===Procedure===

# Remove the handlebar halves. This entails popping off the little plastic caps which cover the hold-down bolts, and unscrewing the bolts. Put down clean rags to protect your bodywork, and lay each handlebar half to the side. It's fine to let them dangle from their cables, but be gentle with them.

* Remove the handlebar halves. This entails popping off the little plastic caps which cover the hold-down bolts, and unscrewing the bolts. Put down clean rags to protect your bodywork, and lay each handlebar half to the side. It's fine to let them dangle from their cables, but be gentle with them.

# Remove the side panels. Unlock the seat and set it aside. Unscrew each side panel and pop it out of its retainers under the tank and at the rear of each panel. Set them aside.

* Remove the side panels. Unlock the seat and set it aside. Unscrew each side panel and pop it out of its retainers under the tank and at the rear of each panel. Set them aside.

# Remove the gas tank. Undo the four bolts holding the upper fairing to the gas tank, and the four bolts under the seat, holding the gold tank bracket to the frame. Remember to disconnect all hoses from the tank, and set it aside. Keep in mind that it can weigh up to about 35 lbs if it's full of gas, so have a friend handy if you're concerned about lifting that much weight. You might be able to do this without removing the tank, but I personally guarantee it's far easier to remove the tank.

* Remove the gas tank. Undo the four bolts holding the upper fairing to the gas tank, and the four bolts under the seat, holding the gold tank bracket to the frame. Remember to disconnect all hoses from the tank, and set it aside. Keep in mind that it can weigh up to about 35 lbs if it's full of gas, so have a friend handy if you're concerned about lifting that much weight. You might be able to do this without removing the tank, but I personally guarantee it's far easier to remove the tank.

# Remove the upper triple clamp. Use the large crescent wrench on the pivot bolt (the huge bolt in the center of the top triple clamp). Loosen the clamp bolts on each fork leg. If everything is correctly loosened, the clamp should lift off with a little bit of rocking back and forth.

* Remove the upper triple clamp. Use the large crescent wrench on the pivot bolt (the huge bolt in the center of the top triple clamp). Loosen the clamp bolts on each fork leg. If everything is correctly loosened, the clamp should lift off with a little bit of rocking back and forth.

# Unplug the ignition switch. Cut the zip tie holding the wiring for the ignition switch. Disconnect the large plug, and pull the bullet connector apart. The top triple clamp should now be free of the bike.

* Unplug the ignition switch. Cut the zip tie holding the wiring for the ignition switch. Disconnect the large plug, and pull the bullet connector apart. The top triple clamp should now be free of the bike.

# Examine the switch attachment. You should see two domed grey fasteners with marred centers, near the bottom of the switch. These are the security bolts, and they're all that's holding the switch to the triple clamp.

* Examine the switch attachment. You should see two domed grey fasteners with marred centers, near the bottom of the switch. These are the security bolts, and they're all that's holding the switch to the triple clamp.

# Set up your triple clamp in a vise, with the security bolt heads up. Use wood or plastic to prevent the vise from marring the triple clamp. If you don't have a vise, improvise some way to keep the triple clamp steady so you can drill it. I used a half-full bag of potting soil, which worked surprisingly well.

* Set up your triple clamp in a vise, with the security bolt heads up. Use wood or plastic to prevent the vise from marring the triple clamp. If you don't have a vise, improvise some way to keep the triple clamp steady so you can drill it. I used a half-full bag of potting soil, which worked surprisingly well.

# Compare your new bolts with your drill bits, and pick a bit which is definitely larger than the widest part of the bolt's shaft. A 1/4" drill bit should be fine. Centerpunch the bolt as close to the center as you can. You may want to do it several times, so the divot is nice and deep.

* Compare your new bolts with your drill bits, and pick a bit which is definitely larger than the widest part of the bolt's shaft. A 1/4" drill bit should be fine. Centerpunch the bolt as close to the center as you can. You may want to do it several times, so the divot is nice and deep.

# Drill into the bolt. Make sure your drill bit is aligned with the bolt's shaft as closely as you can. Drill down until the head separates from the shaft, but no further. If you drill any further, you're reducing the amount of shaft you have available to grab with the vice grip pliers. (Don't ask how I know this.) Try to keep the drill bit centered on the bolt head, although this proved difficult in my case.

* Drill into the bolt. Make sure your drill bit is aligned with the bolt's shaft as closely as you can. Drill down until the head separates from the shaft, but no further. If you drill any further, you're reducing the amount of shaft you have available to grab with the vice grip pliers. (Don't ask how I know this.) Try to keep the drill bit centered on the bolt head, although this proved difficult in my case.

# Once both bolt heads are off, pull the old switch off. There should be two bolt stubs sticking up from the triple clamp.

* Once both bolt heads are off, pull the old switch off. There should be two bolt stubs sticking up from the triple clamp.

# Lock your vise grip pliers onto the bolt stubs, and try to twist them out. If they just won't budge, stop before you damage the shafts too much. Remove the pliers. Play heat over the shafts, to heat up and soften the thread lock compound. About 20 seconds with a propane torch should be enough. Lock the pliers back on and try again. Keep applying heat until they move. If you apply too much heat, you'll damage the paint on the triple tree, so don't go crazy.

* Lock your vise grip pliers onto the bolt stubs, and try to twist them out. If they just won't budge, stop before you damage the shafts too much. Remove the pliers. Play heat over the shafts, to heat up and soften the thread lock compound. About 20 seconds with a propane torch should be enough. Lock the pliers back on and try again. Keep applying heat until they move. If you apply too much heat, you'll damage the paint on the triple tree, so don't go crazy.

# If for any reason you can't get at the shafts with the vise grips, use a screw extractor to get the bolt stubs out. You must use heat for this method, or you'll damage your screw extractor. Play a propane torch over the bolt for 20 seconds, then use the screw extractor. Follow your extractor's instructions, as there are many different types.

* If for any reason you can't get at the shafts with the vise grips, use a screw extractor to get the bolt stubs out. You must use heat for this method, or you'll damage your screw extractor. Play a propane torch over the bolt for 20 seconds, then use the screw extractor. Follow your extractor's instructions, as there are many different types.

# Put the new ignition switch in place, and screw it in with your new bolts. Use red thread locking compound on the bolt shafts (because it would just suck if that switch fell off when you were riding; the red stuff is also strong enough to prevent a nefarious someone from easily removing the switch on the bike). Torque isn't critical, just make sure they're tight without going overboard.

* Put the new ignition switch in place, and screw it in with your new bolts. Use red thread locking compound on the bolt shafts (because it would just suck if that switch fell off when you were riding; the red stuff is also strong enough to prevent a nefarious someone from easily removing the switch on the bike). Torque isn't critical, just make sure they're tight without going overboard.

# Reconnect the ignition switch to the wiring harness. Plug in the 6-position connector and the bullet connector. If you have it, put dielectric grease on the contacts to prevent corrosion. This isn't critical, but makes the connections last longer, particularly in wet environments.

* Reconnect the ignition switch to the wiring harness. Plug in the 6-position connector and the bullet connector. If you have it, put dielectric grease on the contacts to prevent corrosion. This isn't critical, but makes the connections last longer, particularly in wet environments.

# Use your new key to turn on the switch, and make sure everything lights up like it should. If not, check the connection and reseat it as necessary.

* Use your new key to turn on the switch, and make sure everything lights up like it should. If not, check the connection and reseat it as necessary.

# Once the switch is fastened to the triple clamp, reassembly is literally the reverse of this procedure. Put the triple clamp back on, clamp it to the fork legs, screw in the pivot bolt. Reconnect the handlebar halves. Reinstall the gas tank (remember that the bigger tube goes to the bigger hose nipple, and don't forget the smaller one). Reinstall the side panels, and put the seat back on.

* Once the switch is fastened to the triple clamp, reassembly is literally the reverse of this procedure. Put the triple clamp back on, clamp it to the fork legs, screw in the pivot bolt. Reconnect the handlebar halves. Reinstall the gas tank (remember that the bigger tube goes to the bigger hose nipple, and don't forget the smaller one). Reinstall the side panels, and put the seat back on.

Voila, you're done! Shiny new ignition switch. Now quit parking where morons with cheap screwdrivers can get at your bike.

Extra bonus thought: Eric R reports that it is a simple matter for any competent locksmith to cut a "dual key" for you. This is a key with one pattern on one side, and another on the other side. You would do this if you wanted to have one physical key which operated two differently-keyed locks. Ask your locksmith, it should cost the same as getting a normal key done. You will then have to remember which way the key goes into different locks, but it would potentially be more convenient than having two keys.

@@ Line 48: / Line 48: @@
 ===Procedure===
-# Remove the handlebar halves.  This entails popping off the little plastic caps which cover the hold-down bolts, and unscrewing the bolts.   Put down clean rags to protect your bodywork, and lay each handlebar half to the side.  It's fine to let them dangle from their cables, but be gentle with them.
+* Remove the handlebar halves.  This entails popping off the little plastic caps which cover the hold-down bolts, and unscrewing the bolts.   Put down clean rags to protect your bodywork, and lay each handlebar half to the side.  It's fine to let them dangle from their cables, but be gentle with them.
-# Remove the side panels.  Unlock the seat and set it aside.  Unscrew each side panel and pop it out of its retainers under the tank and at the rear of each panel.  Set them aside.
+* Remove the side panels.  Unlock the seat and set it aside.  Unscrew each side panel and pop it out of its retainers under the tank and at the rear of each panel.  Set them aside.
-# Remove the gas tank.  Undo the four bolts holding the upper fairing to the gas tank, and the four bolts under the seat, holding the gold tank bracket to the frame.  Remember to disconnect all hoses from the tank, and set it aside.  Keep in mind that it can weigh up to about 35 lbs if it's full of gas, so have a friend handy if you're concerned about lifting that much weight.  You might be able to do this without removing the tank, but I personally guarantee it's far easier to remove the tank.
+* Remove the gas tank.  Undo the four bolts holding the upper fairing to the gas tank, and the four bolts under the seat, holding the gold tank bracket to the frame.  Remember to disconnect all hoses from the tank, and set it aside.  Keep in mind that it can weigh up to about 35 lbs if it's full of gas, so have a friend handy if you're concerned about lifting that much weight.  You might be able to do this without removing the tank, but I personally guarantee it's far easier to remove the tank.
-# Remove the upper triple clamp.  Use the large crescent wrench on the pivot bolt (the huge bolt in the center of the top triple clamp).  Loosen the clamp bolts on each fork leg. If everything is correctly loosened, the clamp should lift off with a little bit of rocking back and forth.
+* Remove the upper triple clamp.  Use the large crescent wrench on the pivot bolt (the huge bolt in the center of the top triple clamp).  Loosen the clamp bolts on each fork leg. If everything is correctly loosened, the clamp should lift off with a little bit of rocking back and forth.
-# Unplug the ignition switch.  Cut the zip tie holding the wiring for the ignition switch.  Disconnect the large plug, and pull the bullet connector apart.  The top triple clamp should now be free of the bike.
+* Unplug the ignition switch.  Cut the zip tie holding the wiring for the ignition switch.  Disconnect the large plug, and pull the bullet connector apart.  The top triple clamp should now be free of the bike.
-# Examine the switch attachment.  You should see two domed grey fasteners with marred centers, near the bottom of the switch.  These are the security bolts, and they're all that's holding the switch to the triple clamp.
+* Examine the switch attachment.  You should see two domed grey fasteners with marred centers, near the bottom of the switch.  These are the security bolts, and they're all that's holding the switch to the triple clamp.
-# Set up your triple clamp in a vise, with the security bolt heads up.  Use wood or plastic to prevent the vise from marring the triple clamp.  If you don't have a vise, improvise some way to keep the triple clamp steady so you can drill it.  I used a half-full bag of potting soil, which worked surprisingly well.
+* Set up your triple clamp in a vise, with the security bolt heads up.  Use wood or plastic to prevent the vise from marring the triple clamp.  If you don't have a vise, improvise some way to keep the triple clamp steady so you can drill it.  I used a half-full bag of potting soil, which worked surprisingly well.
-# Compare your new bolts with your drill bits, and pick a bit which is definitely larger than the widest part of the bolt's shaft.  A 1/4" drill bit should be fine.  Centerpunch the bolt as close to the center as you can.  You may want to do it several times, so the divot is nice and deep.
+* Compare your new bolts with your drill bits, and pick a bit which is definitely larger than the widest part of the bolt's shaft.  A 1/4" drill bit should be fine.  Centerpunch the bolt as close to the center as you can.  You may want to do it several times, so the divot is nice and deep.
-# Drill into the bolt.  Make sure your drill bit is aligned with the bolt's shaft as closely as you can.  Drill down until the head separates from the shaft, but no further.  If you drill any further, you're reducing the amount of shaft you have available to grab with the vice grip pliers.  (Don't ask how I know this.)  Try to keep the drill bit centered on the bolt head, although this proved difficult in my case.
+* Drill into the bolt.  Make sure your drill bit is aligned with the bolt's shaft as closely as you can.  Drill down until the head separates from the shaft, but no further.  If you drill any further, you're reducing the amount of shaft you have available to grab with the vice grip pliers.  (Don't ask how I know this.)  Try to keep the drill bit centered on the bolt head, although this proved difficult in my case.
-# Once both bolt heads are off, pull the old switch off.  There should be two bolt stubs sticking up from the triple clamp.
+* Once both bolt heads are off, pull the old switch off.  There should be two bolt stubs sticking up from the triple clamp.
-# Lock your vise grip pliers onto the bolt stubs, and try to twist them out.  If they just won't budge, <b>stop</b> before you damage the shafts too much.  Remove the pliers.  Play heat over the shafts, to heat up and soften the thread lock compound.  About 20 seconds with a propane torch should be enough.  Lock the pliers back on and try again.  Keep applying heat until they move.  If you apply too much heat, you'll damage the paint on the triple tree, so don't go crazy.
+* Lock your vise grip pliers onto the bolt stubs, and try to twist them out.  If they just won't budge, <b>stop</b> before you damage the shafts too much.  Remove the pliers.  Play heat over the shafts, to heat up and soften the thread lock compound.  About 20 seconds with a propane torch should be enough.  Lock the pliers back on and try again.  Keep applying heat until they move.  If you apply too much heat, you'll damage the paint on the triple tree, so don't go crazy.
-# If for any reason you can't get at the shafts with the vise grips, use a screw extractor to get the bolt stubs out.  You <i>must</i> use heat for this method, or you'll damage your screw extractor.  Play a propane torch over the bolt for 20 seconds, then use the screw extractor.  Follow your extractor's instructions, as there are many different types.
+* If for any reason you can't get at the shafts with the vise grips, use a screw extractor to get the bolt stubs out.  You <i>must</i> use heat for this method, or you'll damage your screw extractor.  Play a propane torch over the bolt for 20 seconds, then use the screw extractor.  Follow your extractor's instructions, as there are many different types.
-# Put the new ignition switch in place, and screw it in with your new bolts.  Use red thread locking compound on the bolt shafts (because it would just suck if that switch fell off when you were riding; the red stuff is also strong enough to prevent a nefarious someone from easily removing the switch on the bike). Torque isn't critical, just make sure they're tight without going overboard.
+* Put the new ignition switch in place, and screw it in with your new bolts.  Use red thread locking compound on the bolt shafts (because it would just suck if that switch fell off when you were riding; the red stuff is also strong enough to prevent a nefarious someone from easily removing the switch on the bike). Torque isn't critical, just make sure they're tight without going overboard.
-# Reconnect the ignition switch to the wiring harness.  Plug in the 6-position connector and the bullet connector.  If you have it, put dielectric grease on the contacts to prevent corrosion.  This isn't critical, but makes the connections last longer, particularly in wet environments.
+* Reconnect the ignition switch to the wiring harness.  Plug in the 6-position connector and the bullet connector.  If you have it, put dielectric grease on the contacts to prevent corrosion.  This isn't critical, but makes the connections last longer, particularly in wet environments.
-# Use your new key to turn on the switch, and make sure everything lights up like it should.  If not, check the connection and reseat it as necessary.
+* Use your new key to turn on the switch, and make sure everything lights up like it should.  If not, check the connection and reseat it as necessary.
-# Once the switch is fastened to the triple clamp, reassembly is literally the reverse of this procedure.  Put the triple clamp back on, clamp it to the fork legs, screw in the pivot bolt.  Reconnect the handlebar halves.  Reinstall the gas tank (remember that the bigger tube goes to the bigger hose nipple, and don't forget the smaller one).  Reinstall the side panels, and put the seat back on.
+* Once the switch is fastened to the triple clamp, reassembly is literally the reverse of this procedure.  Put the triple clamp back on, clamp it to the fork legs, screw in the pivot bolt.  Reconnect the handlebar halves.  Reinstall the gas tank (remember that the bigger tube goes to the bigger hose nipple, and don't forget the smaller one).  Reinstall the side panels, and put the seat back on.
 Voila, you're done!  Shiny new ignition switch.  Now quit parking where morons with cheap screwdrivers can get at your bike.
 Extra bonus thought: Eric R reports that it is a simple matter for any competent locksmith to cut a "dual key" for you.  This is a key with one pattern on one side, and another on the other side.  You would do this if you wanted to have one physical key which operated two differently-keyed locks.  Ask your locksmith, it should cost the same as getting a normal key done.  You will then have to remember which way the key goes into different locks, but it would potentially be more convenient than having two keys.