How to replace the ignition switch: Difference between revisions

Line 8:

The procedure is fairly straightforward. You'll remove the top triple tree, drill off the security bolts, bolt on the new switch, and put it all back together. This even works with the fork lock engaged. If you have all the tools together, and a reasonable working environment, it shouldn't take more than about 2 hours. Add time as necessary for getting parts or tools.

===Tools Required===

==Tools Required==

* Large crescent wrench (10-12") or 22mm socket

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* [[Waterproofing your electrical connections|Dielectric grease]] or vaseline (optional)

===Security Bolts===

====Security Bolts====

A quick word on security bolts. Kawasaki installs the ignition switch with two fancy bolts which have a snap-off section. They're installed using an inverted Torx driver (the Torx bit is on the bolt; the tool has a Torx-shaped cavity). Once they're tightened down (or perhaps <i>as</i> they're tightened down) they're broken off, leaving a smooth face with no grip for any tools. At least on a 2006 bike, these bolts are glued in with red thread locker and are essentially impossible to remove without destroying them. Earlier bikes reportedly have no thread locker, but we have no good data on when exactly this change was made.

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If you elect to use normal bolts, you want two stainless steel metric 6x16 socket-headed cap screws. These are available at some hardware stores, and any fastener specialist will have them. Lowes carries black oxide bolts, but these will rust in short order, so stainless steel is vastly preferred. Expect to spend about a dollar on a pair of bolts. Security bolts are 88 cents each from Ron Ayers, and probably $1.50 each from a dealer.

===Procedure===

==Procedure==

* Remove the handlebar halves. This entails popping off the little plastic caps which cover the hold-down bolts and unscrewing the bolts. Put down clean rags to protect your bodywork, and lay each handlebar half to the side. It's fine to let them dangle from their cables, but be gentle with them.

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Voila, you're done! Shiny new ignition switch. Now quit parking where morons with cheap screwdrivers can get at your bike.

Extra bonus thought: Eric R reports that it is a simple matter for any competent locksmith to cut a "dual" key for you. This is a key with one pattern on one side, and another on the other side. You would do this if you wanted to have one physical key which operated two differently-keyed locks. Ask your locksmith; it should cost about the same as getting a normal key made. You will then have to remember (or mark) which way the key goes into different locks, but it would potentially be more convenient than having two keys.

====Extra bonus thought====

Eric R reports that it is a simple matter for any competent locksmith to cut a "dual" key for you. This is a key with one pattern on one side, and another on the other side. You would do this if you wanted to have one physical key which operated two differently-keyed locks. Ask your locksmith; it should cost about the same as getting a normal key made. You will then have to remember (or mark) which way the key goes into different locks, but it would potentially be more convenient than having two keys.

@@ Line 8: / Line 8: @@
 The procedure is fairly straightforward.  You'll remove the top triple tree, drill off the security bolts, bolt on the new switch, and put it all back together.  This even works with the fork lock engaged.  If you have all the tools together, and a reasonable working environment, it shouldn't take more than about 2 hours.  Add time as necessary for getting parts or tools.
-===Tools Required===
+==Tools Required==
 * Large crescent wrench (10-12") or 22mm socket
@@ Line 38: / Line 38: @@
 * [[Waterproofing your electrical connections|Dielectric grease]] or vaseline (optional)
-===Security Bolts===
+====Security Bolts====
 A quick word on security bolts.  Kawasaki installs the ignition switch with two fancy bolts which have a snap-off section.  They're installed using an inverted Torx driver (the Torx bit is on the bolt; the tool has a Torx-shaped cavity).  Once they're tightened down (or perhaps <i>as</i> they're tightened down) they're broken off, leaving a smooth face with no grip for any tools.  At least on a 2006 bike, these bolts are glued in with red thread locker and are essentially impossible to remove without destroying them.  Earlier bikes reportedly have no thread locker, but we have no good data on when exactly this change was made.
@@ Line 46: / Line 46: @@
 If you elect to use normal bolts, you want two stainless steel metric 6x16 socket-headed cap screws.  These are available at some hardware stores, and any fastener specialist will have them.  Lowes carries black oxide bolts, but these will rust in short order, so stainless steel is vastly preferred.  Expect to spend about a dollar on a pair of bolts.  Security bolts are 88 cents each from Ron Ayers, and probably $1.50 each from a dealer.
-===Procedure===
+==Procedure==
 * Remove the handlebar halves.  This entails popping off the little plastic caps which cover the hold-down bolts and unscrewing the bolts.   Put down clean rags to protect your bodywork, and lay each handlebar half to the side.  It's fine to let them dangle from their cables, but be gentle with them.
@@ Line 82: / Line 82: @@
 Voila, you're done!  Shiny new ignition switch.  Now quit parking where morons with cheap screwdrivers can get at your bike.
-Extra bonus thought: Eric R reports that it is a simple matter for any competent locksmith to cut a "dual" key for you.  This is a key with one pattern on one side, and another on the other side.  You would do this if you wanted to have one physical key which operated two differently-keyed locks.  Ask your locksmith; it should cost about the same as getting a normal key made.  You will then have to remember (or mark) which way the key goes into different locks, but it would potentially be more convenient than having two keys.
+====Extra bonus thought====
+Eric R reports that it is a simple matter for any competent locksmith to cut a "dual" key for you.  This is a key with one pattern on one side, and another on the other side.  You would do this if you wanted to have one physical key which operated two differently-keyed locks.  Ask your locksmith; it should cost about the same as getting a normal key made.  You will then have to remember (or mark) which way the key goes into different locks, but it would potentially be more convenient than having two keys.