How to replace the ignition switch: Difference between revisions

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This article describes how to replace the ignition switch on a Ninja 250. Typically this will need to be done because some dunderhead had to discover for himself that you really can't steal this bike by jamming a screwdriver in the lock.

For more information on keys and locks, [[What do I need to know about keys?|see here]].

<b>Special note to thieves: you can't steal a Ninja 250 by jamming a screwdriver into the lock!</b> All it does is make the lock ugly, or if you're a real moron and break off the tip of your screwdriver in the lock, prevent the lock from ever working again. '''Please stop trying'''.

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The procedure is fairly straightforward. You'll remove the top triple tree, drill off the security bolts, bolt on the new switch, and put it all back together. This even works with the fork lock engaged. If you have all the tools together, and a reasonable working environment, it shouldn't take more than about 2 hours. Add time as necessary for getting parts or tools.

===Tools Required===

==Tools Required==

* ~~Large crescent wrench (10-12") or~~ 22mm socket

* 22mm socket

* 4, 5 and 6mm hex keys

* #2 Phillips screwdriver

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* [[Waterproofing your electrical connections|Dielectric grease]] or vaseline (optional)

===Security Bolts===

====Security Bolts====

A quick word on security bolts. Kawasaki installs the ignition switch with two fancy bolts which have a snap-off section. They're installed using an inverted Torx driver (the Torx bit is on the bolt; the tool has a Torx-shaped cavity). Once they're tightened down (or perhaps <i>as</i> they're tightened down) they're broken off, leaving a smooth face with no grip for any tools. At least on a 2006 bike, these bolts are glued in with red thread locker and are essentially impossible to remove without destroying them. Earlier bikes reportedly have no thread locker, but we have no good data on when exactly this change was made.

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If you elect to use normal bolts, you want two stainless steel metric 6x16 socket-headed cap screws. These are available at some hardware stores, and any fastener specialist will have them. Lowes carries black oxide bolts, but these will rust in short order, so stainless steel is vastly preferred. Expect to spend about a dollar on a pair of bolts. Security bolts are 88 cents each from Ron Ayers, and probably $1.50 each from a dealer.

===Procedure===

==Procedure==

* Remove the handlebar halves. This entails popping off the little plastic caps which cover the hold-down bolts and unscrewing the bolts. Put down clean rags to protect your bodywork, and lay each handlebar half to the side. It's fine to let them dangle from their cables, but be gentle with them.

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* Remove the side panels. Unlock the seat and set it aside. Unscrew each side panel (one Phillips screw at the bottom) and pop it out of its retainers under the tank and at the rear of each panel. Set them aside.

* [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|Remove the gas tank]]. Undo the four bolts holding the upper fairing to the gas tank and the four bolts under the seat, holding the tank bracket to the frame. Remember to disconnect all hoses from the tank before you lift, then set it aside. Keep in mind that it can weigh up to about 35 lbs (16 kg) if it's full of gas, so have a friend handy if you're concerned about lifting that much weight. You might be able to do this without removing the tank, but it's guaranteed to be far easier to remove the tank.

* [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|Remove the gas tank]]. Undo the four bolts holding the upper fairing to the gas tank (see this [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_remove_the_fairing%2C_fuel_tank%2C_etc%3F#Warnings_first.2C_AND_PAY_ATTENTION very important warning]) and the four bolts under the seat, holding the tank bracket to the frame. Remember to disconnect all hoses from the tank before you lift, then set it aside. Keep in mind that it can weigh up to about 35 lbs (16 kg) if it's full of gas, so have a friend handy if you're concerned about lifting that much weight. You might be able to do this without removing the tank, but it's guaranteed to be far easier to remove the tank.

* Remove the upper triple clamp. Measure the position of the bars and fork tubes in the triple clamp before you start, so you can put it all back in the same place. Use the ~~large crescent wrench~~ on the pivot bolt (the huge bolt in the center of the top triple clamp). Loosen the clamp bolts on each fork leg. If everything is correctly loosened, the clamp should lift off easily with a little bit of rocking back and forth.

* Remove the upper triple clamp. Measure the position of the bars and fork tubes in the triple clamp before you start, so you can put it all back in the same place. Use the 22mm socket on the pivot bolt (the huge bolt in the center of the top triple clamp). Loosen the clamp bolts on each fork leg. If everything is correctly loosened, the clamp should lift off easily with a little bit of rocking back and forth.

* Unplug the ignition switch. Cut the zip tie holding the wiring for the ignition switch, but be careful not to cut the wiring around it. Disconnect the large plug and pull the bullet connector apart. The top triple clamp should now be free of the bike.

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Voila, you're done! Shiny new ignition switch. Now quit parking where morons with cheap screwdrivers can get at your bike.

Extra bonus thought: Eric R reports that it is a simple matter for any competent locksmith to cut a "dual" key for you. This is a key with one pattern on one side, and another on the other side. You would do this if you wanted to have one physical key which operated two differently-keyed locks. Ask your locksmith; it should cost about the same as getting a normal key made. You will then have to remember (or mark) which way the key goes into different locks, but it would potentially be more convenient than having two keys.

====Extra bonus thought====

Eric R reports that it is a simple matter for any competent locksmith to cut a "dual" key for you. This is a key with one pattern on one side, and another on the other side. You would do this if you wanted to have one physical key which operated two differently-keyed locks. Ask your locksmith; it should cost about the same as getting a normal key made. You will then have to remember (or mark) which way the key goes into different locks, but it would potentially be more convenient than having two keys.

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 This article describes how to replace the ignition switch on a Ninja 250.  Typically this will need to be done because some dunderhead had to discover for himself that you really can't steal this bike by jamming a screwdriver in the lock.
+For more information on keys and locks, [[What do I need to know about keys?|see here]].
 <b>Special note to thieves: you can't steal a Ninja 250 by jamming a screwdriver into the lock!</b>  All it does is make the lock ugly, or if you're a real moron and break off the tip of your screwdriver in the lock, prevent the lock from ever working again.  '''Please stop trying'''.
@@ Line 8: / Line 10: @@
 The procedure is fairly straightforward.  You'll remove the top triple tree, drill off the security bolts, bolt on the new switch, and put it all back together.  This even works with the fork lock engaged.  If you have all the tools together, and a reasonable working environment, it shouldn't take more than about 2 hours.  Add time as necessary for getting parts or tools.
-===Tools Required===
+==Tools Required==
-* Large crescent wrench (10-12") or 22mm socket
+* 22mm socket
 * 4, 5 and 6mm hex keys
 * #2 Phillips screwdriver
@@ Line 38: / Line 40: @@
 * [[Waterproofing your electrical connections|Dielectric grease]] or vaseline (optional)
-===Security Bolts===
+====Security Bolts====
 A quick word on security bolts.  Kawasaki installs the ignition switch with two fancy bolts which have a snap-off section.  They're installed using an inverted Torx driver (the Torx bit is on the bolt; the tool has a Torx-shaped cavity).  Once they're tightened down (or perhaps <i>as</i> they're tightened down) they're broken off, leaving a smooth face with no grip for any tools.  At least on a 2006 bike, these bolts are glued in with red thread locker and are essentially impossible to remove without destroying them.  Earlier bikes reportedly have no thread locker, but we have no good data on when exactly this change was made.
@@ Line 46: / Line 48: @@
 If you elect to use normal bolts, you want two stainless steel metric 6x16 socket-headed cap screws.  These are available at some hardware stores, and any fastener specialist will have them.  Lowes carries black oxide bolts, but these will rust in short order, so stainless steel is vastly preferred.  Expect to spend about a dollar on a pair of bolts.  Security bolts are 88 cents each from Ron Ayers, and probably $1.50 each from a dealer.
-===Procedure===
+==Procedure==
 * Remove the handlebar halves.  This entails popping off the little plastic caps which cover the hold-down bolts and unscrewing the bolts.   Put down clean rags to protect your bodywork, and lay each handlebar half to the side.  It's fine to let them dangle from their cables, but be gentle with them.
@@ Line 52: / Line 54: @@
 * Remove the side panels.  Unlock the seat and set it aside.  Unscrew each side panel (one Phillips screw at the bottom) and pop it out of its retainers under the tank and at the rear of each panel.  Set them aside.
-* [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|Remove the gas tank]].  Undo the four bolts holding the upper fairing to the gas tank and the four bolts under the seat, holding the tank bracket to the frame.  Remember to disconnect all hoses from the tank before you lift, then set it aside.  Keep in mind that it can weigh up to about 35 lbs (16 kg) if it's full of gas, so have a friend handy if you're concerned about lifting that much weight.  You might be able to do this without removing the tank, but it's guaranteed to be far easier to remove the tank.
+* [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|Remove the gas tank]].  Undo the four bolts holding the upper fairing to the gas tank (see this [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/How_do_I_remove_the_fairing%2C_fuel_tank%2C_etc%3F#Warnings_first.2C_AND_PAY_ATTENTION very important warning]) and the four bolts under the seat, holding the tank bracket to the frame.  Remember to disconnect all hoses from the tank before you lift, then set it aside.  Keep in mind that it can weigh up to about 35 lbs (16 kg) if it's full of gas, so have a friend handy if you're concerned about lifting that much weight.  You might be able to do this without removing the tank, but it's guaranteed to be far easier to remove the tank.
-* Remove the upper triple clamp.  Measure the position of the bars and fork tubes in the triple clamp before you start, so you can put it all back in the same place. Use the large crescent wrench on the pivot bolt (the huge bolt in the center of the top triple clamp).  Loosen the clamp bolts on each fork leg. If everything is correctly loosened, the clamp should lift off easily with a little bit of rocking back and forth.
+* Remove the upper triple clamp.  Measure the position of the bars and fork tubes in the triple clamp before you start, so you can put it all back in the same place. Use the 22mm socket on the pivot bolt (the huge bolt in the center of the top triple clamp).  Loosen the clamp bolts on each fork leg. If everything is correctly loosened, the clamp should lift off easily with a little bit of rocking back and forth.
 * Unplug the ignition switch.  Cut the zip tie holding the wiring for the ignition switch, but be careful not to cut the wiring around it.  Disconnect the large plug and pull the bullet connector apart.  The top triple clamp should now be free of the bike.
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 Voila, you're done!  Shiny new ignition switch.  Now quit parking where morons with cheap screwdrivers can get at your bike.
-Extra bonus thought: Eric R reports that it is a simple matter for any competent locksmith to cut a "dual" key for you.  This is a key with one pattern on one side, and another on the other side.  You would do this if you wanted to have one physical key which operated two differently-keyed locks.  Ask your locksmith; it should cost about the same as getting a normal key made.  You will then have to remember (or mark) which way the key goes into different locks, but it would potentially be more convenient than having two keys.
+====Extra bonus thought====
+Eric R reports that it is a simple matter for any competent locksmith to cut a "dual" key for you.  This is a key with one pattern on one side, and another on the other side.  You would do this if you wanted to have one physical key which operated two differently-keyed locks.  Ask your locksmith; it should cost about the same as getting a normal key made.  You will then have to remember (or mark) which way the key goes into different locks, but it would potentially be more convenient than having two keys.