Cam chain tensioner removal: Difference between revisions
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While there have been a few reports of failure, the cam chain tensioner is not a big issue for 250 owners. Leon, a long-time club member and multiple 250 owner, says not to worry about it: "I've never had an issue with a cam tensioner on the Ninja. In this case, fixing it before it breaks may be what causes it to break." | While there have been a few reports of failure, the cam chain tensioner is not a big issue for 250 owners. [https://www.ninja250.org/Leon Leon], a long-time club member and multiple 250 owner, says not to worry about it: "I've never had an issue with a cam tensioner on the Ninja. In this case, fixing it before it breaks may be what causes it to break." | ||
==How it works== | ==How it works== | ||
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==Reassembly== | ==Reassembly== | ||
*With one hand, squeeze the | *With one hand, squeeze the pushrod and springs into the bore until they bottom out. With the other hand, tighten the set screw until it stops (don't torque it down!). This will hold the piston up during installation. | ||
*Slip the ball bearing and retainer spring over the pushrod. | *Slip the ball bearing and retainer spring over the pushrod. | ||
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*Place the assembly over the crankcase mounting position and insert the tensioner pushrod into the hole. | *Place the assembly over the crankcase mounting position and insert the tensioner pushrod into the hole. | ||
*Assure the ball bearing and retainer spring and the O-ring remain in place as the | *Put a drop of blue Loctite on both mounting bolts. Tighten them by turning each a bit at a time. Assure the ball bearing and retainer spring and the O-ring remain in place as you tighten the bolts. | ||
*After installation of the tensioner, loosen the lock screw enough to free the pushrod (about 2 mm). You should hear a click as the pushrod releases. | *After installation of the tensioner, loosen the lock screw enough to free the pushrod (about 2 mm). You should hear a click as the pushrod releases. | ||
*Tighten the lock screw again | *Tighten the lock screw again. | ||
*The stiff spring in the push rod should now be firmly against the rear cam chain guide. | *The stiff spring in the push rod should now be firmly against the rear cam chain guide. | ||
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*Since the bearings only move in one direction and don't turn like normal ones, some experienced people have said that not lubing them will help hold the tension rod in place better. | *Since the bearings only move in one direction and don't turn like normal ones, some experienced people have said that not lubing them will help hold the tension rod in place better. | ||
*However, [https://www.ninja250.org/AJinNoHills AJ] happened to have two tensioners lying around and tried one "dry" and one covered in moly grease. Both worked fine, in that neither would allow the rod to go back into the tensioner body when the bearing was fully seated. But the one that had grease pulled out smoother than the unlubed one. Since the bearings are not under any significant pressure when the rod is coming out, the lube might be helpful so that it comes out smoothly. | *However, [https://www.ninja250.org/AJinNoHills AJ] happened to have two tensioners lying around and tried one "dry" and one covered in moly grease. Both worked fine, in that neither would allow the rod to go back into the tensioner body when the bearing was fully seated. But the one that had grease pulled out smoother than the unlubed one. Since the bearings are not under any significant pressure when the rod is coming out, the lube might be helpful so that it comes out smoothly. | ||
* There's no consensus. You decide. | * There's no consensus. Dry, engine oil, grease. You decide. | ||
* If you decide to search the forums for this issue, CCT is the usual abbreviation for the cam chain tensioner. | * If you decide to search the forums for this issue, CCT is the usual abbreviation for the cam chain tensioner. | ||