My LED turn signals don't work right: Difference between revisions

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==Fixing flash rate==

This is the easy part. You need to replace the ~~thermal~~ flasher that came in your bike with an electronic one. An electronic flasher (aka turn signal relay) will make your flashers blink at the same rate no matter whether they are LED or incandescent. The ~~thermal~~ flasher that came with the bike doesn't work with the low current demands of LED lights. The pictures show the location of the stock flasher.

This is the easy part. You need to replace the flasher that came in your bike with an electronic one. An electronic flasher (aka turn signal relay) will make your flashers blink at the same rate no matter whether they are LED or incandescent. The flasher that came with the bike doesn't work with the low current demands of LED lights. The pictures show the location of the stock flasher.

[[image: 100_0389-2.jpg|150px]]

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The stock flasher is Kawasaki part number 27002-1101, Denso part number FE218BH, although you shouldn't need this information when looking for an electronic replacement. Since there are 2 wires on the bike to connect to the flasher relay, most any 2 wire electronic flasher should work for the Ninja. You should be able to find one at your local auto parts store. Maybe. If you get a blank look when you ask there, try one of these:

* [http://www.cyclegear.com/~~spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=PRC_SM-FRH1_G~~ SPEEDMETAL LED Signal Relay ~~(#489421)~~] from Cycle Gear.

* [http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product/LED_Signal_Relay/web1006869 SPEEDMETAL LED Signal Relay] from Cycle Gear.

* [http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fflashers.htm Super Bright LEDs] part number LF1-S-PIN

To wire your new flasher, the wire that is orange with a green stripe is ~~the 'hot' wire. It connects to~~ Fuse 1 in the junction box. The solid orange wire runs to the turn signal switch.

To wire your new flasher, the wire that is orange with a green stripe is 12 volts in from Fuse 1 in the junction box. The solid orange wire runs out to the turn signal switch.

Connect to the stock wires using crimp connectors and [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Installing_connectors_for_your_wiring#Using_heat_shrink_tubing_to_cover_exposed_wire heat shrink wrap].

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====Why the stock flasher doesn't work with LEDs====

~~The way the stock flasher works is~~ mechanical. ~~There's~~ a small piece of springy metal in the relay body, and as it ~~heats~~ up from current flow it ~~flashes~~ the signals. Mechanical flashers will increase or decrease in rate as voltage or current changes because the springy metal bit heats up at different rates ..~~. or~~ doesn't ~~heat at all~~, as with ~~LEDs~~. ~~LEDs draw significantly less current than incandescent~~ bulbs, so the ~~flasher relay never heats to~~ the ~~point where~~ it ~~'breaks'~~ the ~~circuit. Electronic flashers are designed so that they have~~ a ~~fixed~~ rate of flashing~~, regardless of voltage or~~ current. ~~They do this by using solid state devices~~ like ~~transistors~~ to do the ~~job the springy metal bit used to do~~.

Older vehicle flashers were mechanical. They had a small piece of springy metal in the relay body, and as it heated up from current flow it flashed the signals. Mechanical flashers will increase or decrease in rate as voltage or current changes because the springy metal bit heats up at different rates.

The stock EX250 flasher is solid state, but it's fairly simple - just a chip with a cap and a resistor or two. It doesn't use a timer, though. This is why its flash rate varies with bulb load, like an old mechanical flasher. With mechanical flashers, as more bulbs are added, the current through the heater element increases and causes it to heat faster, breaking the contacts faster and resulting in a faster flash rate. The Ninja's solid-state flasher reacts the opposite, flashing faster with the reduced bulb load from lower-current LEDs. Fixed-rate flasher modules (like the new one you're putting in) use a timer to regulate the flash rate independently of bulb loading.

==Fixing "all signals flashing at the same time"==

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====Diode method====

Using diodes is probably an easier way to do make your new signals work than the LED method described below. It should be easier for most people to solder wires and make a ground using a ring terminal than to fiddle with small parts inside the gauge cluster. Another nice feature of this modification is any cluster will work, so if the cluster needs to be replaced for any reason, the wiring modification will still be on the bike.

Using diodes is probably an easier way to make your new signals work than the LED method described below. It should be easier for most people to solder wires and make a ground using a ring terminal than to fiddle with small parts inside the gauge cluster. Another nice feature of this modification is that any cluster will work, so if the cluster needs to be replaced for any reason, the wiring modification will still be on the bike.

A diode is a simple one-way valve. It only allows electricity to flow in one direction. This will keep the two turn signal circuits separated. [http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/diode.htm More about diodes]

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To start, get two diodes, part number 1N4001. These are available at [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036268 Radio Shack] or other electronics stores. This is a general purpose diode and should be easy to find. Then you can just follow the directions on the pictures.

At the six-connection plug under the headlight, use a paper clip to remove the green and grey wires from the male side of the plug. ~~These~~ wires bring power to the "your signals are on" dash light. You are going to splice into these wires. When you do, leave enough wire on both ends to make the splice, ie... make your cut several inches back from the connector.

At the six-connection plug under the headlight, use a paper clip to remove the green and grey wires from the male side of the plug. In stock form, these wires bring power to the "your signals are on" dash light. You are going to splice into these wires. When you do, leave enough wire on both ends to make the splice, ie... make your cut several inches back from the connector.

[[Soldering 101|~~Solder~~]] the anode (+) end of the diodes ~~individually~~ to the ~~part~~ of the ~~wire that is still on the harness, one to the green and one~~ to the grey wire~~. These will be your hot wires, running through the diodes to the dash bulb~~. Then you need to solder the cathode (-) end of both diodes together to the end of the green wire that you cut off ~~(that still has a connector on it)~~.

Set aside the connector end of the wires that you cut off for now. Take the green and grey wires coming from the harness and [[Soldering 101|solder]] the anode (+) end of one of the diodes to the green one. Solder the anode of the other diode to the grey wire. Then you need to solder the cathode (-) end of both diodes together to the end of the green wire (with connector attached) that you cut off. What this does is make one hot wire out of two.

[[image:1SixPlugConn-REV1.jpg|150px]]

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[[image:4GndWire.jpg|150px]]

Find a bolt on the frame to hook the ground wire to. Reconnect the two connectors and check to make sure that everything works right.

Find a bolt on the frame to hook the ground wire to. Make sure you have heat shrink wrap on all the splices. Reconnect the two connectors at the six-connection plug and check to make sure that everything works right.

[[image:3LockTabCaveat.jpg|150px]]

@@ Line 6: / Line 6: @@
 ==Fixing flash rate==
-This is the easy part. You need to replace the thermal flasher that came in your bike with an electronic one. An electronic flasher (aka turn signal relay) will make your flashers blink at the same rate no matter whether they are LED or incandescent. The thermal flasher that came with the bike doesn't work with the low current demands of LED lights. The pictures show the location of the stock flasher.
+This is the easy part. You need to replace the flasher that came in your bike with an electronic one. An electronic flasher (aka turn signal relay) will make your flashers blink at the same rate no matter whether they are LED or incandescent. The flasher that came with the bike doesn't work with the low current demands of LED lights. The pictures show the location of the stock flasher.
 [[image: 100_0389-2.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 14: / Line 14: @@
 The stock flasher is Kawasaki part number 27002-1101, Denso part number FE218BH, although you shouldn't need this information when looking for an electronic replacement. Since there are 2 wires on the bike to connect to the flasher relay, most any 2 wire electronic flasher should work for the Ninja. You should be able to find one at your local auto parts store. Maybe. If you get a blank look when you ask there, try one of these:
-* [http://www.cyclegear.com/spgm.cfm?L1=&L2=&L3=&L4=&item=PRC_SM-FRH1_G SPEEDMETAL LED Signal Relay (#489421)] from Cycle Gear.
+* [http://www.cyclegear.com/eng/product/LED_Signal_Relay/web1006869 SPEEDMETAL LED Signal Relay] from Cycle Gear.
 * [http://www.superbrightleds.com/cgi-bin/store/index.cgi?action=DispPage&Page2Disp=%2Fflashers.htm Super Bright LEDs] part number LF1-S-PIN
-To wire your new flasher, the wire that is orange with a green stripe is the 'hot' wire. It connects to Fuse 1 in the junction box. The solid orange wire runs to the turn signal switch.
+To wire your new flasher, the wire that is orange with a green stripe is 12 volts in from Fuse 1 in the junction box. The solid orange wire runs out to the turn signal switch.
 Connect to the stock wires using crimp connectors and [http://faq.ninja250.org/wiki/Installing_connectors_for_your_wiring#Using_heat_shrink_tubing_to_cover_exposed_wire heat shrink wrap].
@@ Line 33: / Line 33: @@
 ====Why the stock flasher doesn't work with LEDs====
-The way the stock flasher works is mechanical. There's a small piece of springy metal in the relay body, and as it heats up from current flow it flashes the signals. Mechanical flashers will increase or decrease in rate as voltage or current changes because the springy metal bit heats up at different rates ... or doesn't heat at all, as with LEDs. LEDs draw significantly less current than incandescent bulbs, so the flasher relay never heats to the point where it 'breaks' the circuit. Electronic flashers are designed so that they have a fixed rate of flashing, regardless of voltage or current. They do this by using solid state devices like transistors to do the job the springy metal bit used to do.
+Older vehicle flashers were mechanical. They had a small piece of springy metal in the relay body, and as it heated up from current flow it flashed the signals. Mechanical flashers will increase or decrease in rate as voltage or current changes because the springy metal bit heats up at different rates.
+The stock EX250 flasher is solid state, but it's fairly simple - just a chip with a cap and a resistor or two. It doesn't use a timer, though. This is why its flash rate varies with bulb load, like an old mechanical flasher. With mechanical flashers, as more bulbs are added, the current through the heater element increases and causes it to heat faster, breaking the contacts faster and resulting in a faster flash rate. The Ninja's solid-state flasher reacts the opposite, flashing faster with the reduced bulb load from lower-current LEDs. Fixed-rate flasher modules (like the new one you're putting in) use a timer to regulate the flash rate independently of bulb loading.
 ==Fixing "all signals flashing at the same time"==
@@ Line 45: / Line 47: @@
 ====Diode method====
-Using diodes is probably an easier way to do make your new signals work than the LED method described below. It should be easier for most people to solder wires and make a ground using a ring terminal than to fiddle with small parts inside the gauge cluster. Another nice feature of this modification is any cluster will work, so if the cluster needs to be replaced for any reason, the wiring modification will still be on the bike.
+Using diodes is probably an easier way to make your new signals work than the LED method described below. It should be easier for most people to solder wires and make a ground using a ring terminal than to fiddle with small parts inside the gauge cluster. Another nice feature of this modification is that any cluster will work, so if the cluster needs to be replaced for any reason, the wiring modification will still be on the bike.
 A diode is a simple one-way valve. It only allows electricity to flow in one direction. This will keep the two turn signal circuits separated. [http://www.kpsec.freeuk.com/components/diode.htm More about diodes]
@@ Line 55: / Line 57: @@
 To start, get two diodes, part number 1N4001. These are available at [http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2036268 Radio Shack] or other electronics stores. This is a general purpose diode and should be easy to find. Then you can just follow the directions on the pictures.
-At the six-connection plug under the headlight, use a paper clip to remove the green and grey wires from the male side of the plug. These wires bring power to the "your signals are on" dash light. You are going to splice into these wires. When you do, leave enough wire on both ends to make the splice, ie... make your cut several inches back from the connector.
+At the six-connection plug under the headlight, use a paper clip to remove the green and grey wires from the male side of the plug. In stock form, these wires bring power to the "your signals are on" dash light. You are going to splice into these wires. When you do, leave enough wire on both ends to make the splice, ie... make your cut several inches back from the connector.
-[[Soldering 101|Solder]] the anode (+) end of the diodes individually to the part of the wire that is still on the harness, one to the green and one to the grey wire. These will be your hot wires, running through the diodes to the dash bulb. Then you need to solder the cathode (-) end of both diodes together to the end of the green wire that you cut off (that still has a connector on it).
+Set aside the connector end of the wires that you cut off for now. Take the green and grey wires coming from the harness and [[Soldering 101|solder]] the anode (+) end of one of the diodes to the green one. Solder the anode of the other diode to the grey wire. Then you need to solder the cathode (-) end of both diodes together to the end of the green wire (with connector attached) that you cut off. What this does is make one hot wire out of two.
 [[image:1SixPlugConn-REV1.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 66: / Line 68: @@
 [[image:4GndWire.jpg|150px]]
-Find a bolt on the frame to hook the ground wire to. Reconnect the two connectors and check to make sure that everything works right.
+Find a bolt on the frame to hook the ground wire to. Make sure you have heat shrink wrap on all the splices. Reconnect the two connectors at the six-connection plug and check to make sure that everything works right.
 [[image:3LockTabCaveat.jpg|150px]]