Riding in the rain: Difference between revisions

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Things to definitely watch out for:

*Greatly increased stopping distance ~~- If you lock the brake(s) and one of the tires slides, you'll go down.~~

*Greatly increased stopping distance

*Road oils rising to surface when rain first starts

*Manhole covers, painted lines, steel grates and railroad tracks

*Puddles in the slow lanes (near the gutters)

*Reduced visibility (for you ''and'' other vehicles)

*Hypothermia (cold weather and/or long trips)

*Puddles: in the slow lanes (near the gutters) and elsewhere (can hide potholes)

Other stuff:

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Keep the bike as vertical as possible while cornering. Use less bike lean angle by getting your body position shifted an exaggerated amount off the inside for turns. Only do this if you already know how in the dry. [[Shifting body weight for a turn|Practice]]. Despite some body shifting off the bike, keep your shoulders square with the handlebars while making steering inputs.

Position your inside shoulder low and pointed to the inside of the turn, stretching forward and inward towards the desired target for corner exit. Consciously position your outside forearm and elbow up high ([http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Spies "Ben Spies style]") for better steering control during cornering.

Position your inside shoulder low and pointed to the inside of the turn, stretching forward and inward towards the desired target for corner exit. Consciously position your outside forearm and elbow up high ([http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Spies "Ben Spies style"]) for better steering control during cornering.

[[image: Ben_Spies_Sears_Point_2005.jpg|150px]]

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==Bike operation==

Have the bike in a lower gear for corners (but don’t bog the engine). This provides more linear throttle control, for improved throttle steering and front/rear weight distribution control. The key is to have the bike in whatever gear will allow the motor to work at an rpm that ~~allows for~~ the most even and linear delivery of power to the rear wheel.

Keep the bike in whatever gear will allow the motor to work at an rpm that provides the most even and linear delivery of power to the rear wheel. No bogging the engine, no quick revving. This provides more linear throttle control, for improved throttle steering and front/rear weight distribution control.

Minimize shifting while riding contiguous corners. Use smooth roll up and roll down, keeping the engine in its sweet spot and minimizing instantaneous tire loading.

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==Braking==

Do all actual slowing-down braking while the bike is straight up and down (no [[Trail Braking|trail braking).

Do all actual slowing-down braking while the bike is straight up and down (no [[Trail Braking|trail braking]]).

Be 100% off the front brake before turning into corners.

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Regularly scan well ahead to identify road obstacles (such as rocks, branches, or wet leaves) early enough to have time to adjust accordingly. Also scan road surfaces just ahead of you for previously undetected “gotchas”.

Never fight physics. Immediately upon sensing the slightest of tire slippage while cornering, give physics what it wants by allowing the bike's line to drift slightly outward - just enough for that extra energy to release. The moment the tire regains ~~1-to-1~~ grip, return to focusing on keeping the bike on a slightly adjusted version of the original target line.

Never fight physics. Immediately upon sensing the slightest of tire slippage while cornering, give physics what it wants by allowing the bike's line to drift slightly outward - just enough for that extra energy to release. The moment the tire regains grip, return to focusing on keeping the bike on a slightly adjusted version of the original target line.

==Bike setup==

@@ Line 8: / Line 8: @@
 Things to definitely watch out for:
-*Greatly increased stopping distance - If you lock the brake(s) and one of the tires slides, you'll go down.
+*Greatly increased stopping distance
 *Road oils rising to surface when rain first starts
 *Manhole covers, painted lines, steel grates and railroad tracks
-*Puddles in the slow lanes (near the gutters)
 *Reduced visibility (for you ''and'' other vehicles)
 *Hypothermia (cold weather and/or long trips)
+*Puddles: in the slow lanes (near the gutters) and elsewhere (can hide potholes)
 Other stuff:
@@ Line 54: / Line 54: @@
 Keep the bike as vertical as possible while cornering. Use less bike lean angle by getting your body position shifted an exaggerated amount off the inside for turns. Only do this if you already know how in the dry. [[Shifting body weight for a turn|Practice]]. Despite some body shifting off the bike, keep your shoulders square with the handlebars while making steering inputs.
-Position your inside shoulder low and pointed to the inside of the turn, stretching forward and inward towards the desired target for corner exit. Consciously position your outside forearm and elbow up high ([http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Spies "Ben Spies style]") for better steering control during cornering.
+Position your inside shoulder low and pointed to the inside of the turn, stretching forward and inward towards the desired target for corner exit. Consciously position your outside forearm and elbow up high ([http://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ben_Spies "Ben Spies style"]) for better steering control during cornering.
 [[image: Ben_Spies_Sears_Point_2005.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 68: / Line 68: @@
 ==Bike operation==
-Have the bike in a lower gear for corners (but don’t bog the engine). This provides more linear throttle control, for improved throttle steering and front/rear weight distribution control. The key is to have the bike in whatever gear will allow the motor to work at an rpm that allows for the most even and linear delivery of power to the rear wheel.
+Keep the bike in whatever gear will allow the motor to work at an rpm that provides the most even and linear delivery of power to the rear wheel. No bogging the engine, no quick revving. This provides more linear throttle control, for improved throttle steering and front/rear weight distribution control.
 Minimize shifting while riding contiguous corners. Use smooth roll up and roll down, keeping the engine in its sweet spot and minimizing instantaneous tire loading.
@@ Line 74: / Line 74: @@
 ==Braking==
-Do all actual slowing-down braking while the bike is straight up and down (no [[Trail Braking|trail braking).
+Do all actual slowing-down braking while the bike is straight up and down (no [[Trail Braking|trail braking]]).
 Be 100% off the front brake before turning into corners.
@@ Line 115: / Line 115: @@
 Regularly scan well ahead to identify road obstacles (such as rocks, branches, or wet leaves) early enough to have time to adjust accordingly. Also scan road surfaces just ahead of you for previously undetected “gotchas”.
-Never fight physics. Immediately upon sensing the slightest of tire slippage while cornering, give physics what it wants by allowing the bike's line to drift slightly outward - just enough for that extra energy to release. The moment the tire regains 1-to-1 grip, return to focusing on keeping the bike on a slightly adjusted version of the original target line.
+Never fight physics. Immediately upon sensing the slightest of tire slippage while cornering, give physics what it wants by allowing the bike's line to drift slightly outward - just enough for that extra energy to release. The moment the tire regains grip, return to focusing on keeping the bike on a slightly adjusted version of the original target line.
 ==Bike setup==