I want to repaint my exhaust pipes: Difference between revisions

(6 intermediate revisions by the same user not shown)

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*'''Against:''' "I've had 1200 degree BBQ paint -- applied properly -- fail on the pipes near the headers in only six weeks. I've never seen glossy paint good past 900 degrees."

*'''For:''' "I've had really good luck with the Dupli-Color High Heat paint, as opposed to barbecue paint. I've had it on the exhaust headers of my 1100 for a few years now, and it's held up well. I found it worked better if I "cycled" it a bit at first (see below). The best paint I've found is [http://~~duplicolor~~.com/~~products~~/~~engine.html~~ Duplicolor Ceramic High Heat]. Part number is DH1602 for black. There are a limited number of other colors.”

*'''For:''' "I've had really good luck with the Dupli-Color High Heat paint, as opposed to barbecue paint. I've had it on the exhaust headers of my 1100 for a few years now, and it's held up well. I found it worked better if I "cycled" it a bit at first (see below). The best paint I've found is [http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Dupli-Color/Product-Line/Dupli-Color-High-Heat-Paint-with-Ceramic-Resins/?autoview=SKU Duplicolor Ceramic High Heat]. Part number is DH1602 for black. There are a limited number of other colors.”

:Another feature is this nifty spray can which it comes in:

Line 23:

:[[Image:558615.jpg|180px]]

*'''Ceramic coating:''' "Check your local yellow pages for performance or exhaust shops that do ceramic coating. They claim they can do a range of colors, and that they'll stand up to hot-rod engine heat. It's pricey, but ~~that~~'s a process which is much more likely to last. The best paint, from a ratings standpoint, is 1500 degrees, and that's not really enough to use on the headers and expect it to last."

*'''Ceramic coating:''' Check your local yellow pages for performance or exhaust shops that do ceramic coating. They claim they can do a range of colors, and that they'll stand up to hot-rod engine heat. It's pricey, but it's a process which is much more likely to last. The best paint, from a ratings standpoint, is 1500 degrees, and that's not really enough to use on the headers and expect it to last.

====Painting the headers====

If you're still with us, and want to give this process a shot, here's your best chance at success. Keep in mind that you should use 1200 degree (F) (or higher) high temperature paint. Nothing else will stick for very long, especially on the headers. You will undoubtedly end up with flat paint, as glossy is pretty much unavailable in that heat range.

If you're still with us and want to give this process a shot, here's your best chance at success. Keep in mind that you should use 1200 degree (F) (or higher) high temperature paint. Nothing else will stick for very long, especially on the headers. You will undoubtedly end up with flat paint, as glossy is pretty much unavailable in that heat range.

Most of the trouble club members have had has come when they tried to paint the headers. The cans are not as hot, and will usually hold up better, but the header pipes, and the area where the header pipes join the slip-ons, have trouble holding paint, due to the high amount of heat they give off.

Most of the trouble club members have had has come when they tried to paint the headers. The cans are not as hot and will usually hold up better, but the header pipes, and the area where the header pipes join the slip-ons, have trouble holding paint, due to the high amount of heat they give off.

If you just strip the pipes (and don't paint them), they will rust. You can do this, then clean the pipe periodically with steel wool, but that falls into a "high maintenance" area for most people.

If you just strip the pipes (and don't paint them) they will rust. You can do this, then clean the pipe periodically with steel wool, but that falls into a "high maintenance" area for most people.

Sand the pipe with fine sandpaper and use a dremel tool with a wire brush to clean around the welds, then paint it. Make sure you take your time. Follow the directions on the can (especially regarding time between coats), apply thin coats, and the paint will stick better. Did we mention to follow the directions on the can?

Line 37:

Once you are satisfied with the look of your pipes, you should “heat cycle” them. This works better than just popping them on and going for a ride:

*After you start the bike for the first time, run it for 30-60 seconds, shut it down, let it get cool again... Do that about half a dozen times before you get it hot for any extended period.

====Painting the mufflers====

Line 56:

[[Image:Blackmuff.jpg|180px]]

====Painting chrome====

Sand chrome as you would any metal (with a VERY coarse grit), and kill the shine. Clean properly with thinner, let dry, and use an etching primer. Then, apply the base and clearcoat as usual.

====Long-term results====

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[http://www.caswellplating.com/vht/vht_high.htm Caswell Plating VHT]

[http://www.duplicolor.com/~~products/engine.html~~ Dupli-Color High Heat]

[http://www.duplicolor.com/ Dupli-Color High Heat]

[http://www.hirschauto.com/ Bill Hirsch Auto Paints]

[http://www.plastikote.com/index.jsp plasti-kote paints]

====Before & after painting photos====

The following pictures are of a 16 year-old system done with Duplicolor high heat and lots of prep time. How long they will stay looking like this is anyone's guess.

Send $20 and we'll send you the plans to the high-tech 3 mil spray booth:

N250RC FAQ Beer Fund<br>

Box 250 Taipei, Taiwan ROC

[[image:exhaust 01.jpg|150px]]

[[image:exhaust 02.jpg|150px]]

[[image:exhaust 03.jpg|150px]]

[[image:exhaust 04.jpg|150px]]

[[image:exhaust 05.jpg|150px]]

[[image:exhaust 06.jpg|150px]]

~~[http://www~~.~~hirschauto.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=27&Product_ID=12&CATID=1 Bill Hirsch Auto Paints]~~

You can try scrubbing, you can try soaking, but chances are you're not going to get that pitting out.

[~~http~~:~~//www~~.~~plastikote.com/plastikote/auto/index~~.~~jsp plasti-kote paints~~]

[[image:exhaust 07.jpg|150px]]

[[image:exhaust 08.jpg|150px]]

@@ Line 13: / Line 13: @@
 *'''Against:''' "I've had 1200 degree BBQ paint -- applied properly -- fail on the pipes near the headers in only six weeks. I've never seen glossy paint good past 900 degrees."
-*'''For:''' "I've had really good luck with the Dupli-Color High Heat paint, as opposed to barbecue paint. I've had it on the exhaust headers of my 1100 for a few years now, and it's held up well. I found it worked better if I "cycled" it a bit at first (see below). The best paint I've found is [http://duplicolor.com/products/engine.html Duplicolor Ceramic High Heat]. Part number is DH1602 for black. There are a limited number of other colors.”
+*'''For:''' "I've had really good luck with the Dupli-Color High Heat paint, as opposed to barbecue paint. I've had it on the exhaust headers of my 1100 for a few years now, and it's held up well. I found it worked better if I "cycled" it a bit at first (see below). The best paint I've found is [http://www.summitracing.com/search/Brand/Dupli-Color/Product-Line/Dupli-Color-High-Heat-Paint-with-Ceramic-Resins/?autoview=SKU Duplicolor Ceramic High Heat]. Part number is DH1602 for black. There are a limited number of other colors.”
 :Another feature is this nifty spray can which it comes in:
@@ Line 23: / Line 23: @@
 :[[Image:558615.jpg|180px]]
-*'''Ceramic coating:''' "Check your local yellow pages for performance or exhaust shops that do ceramic coating. They claim they can do a range of colors, and that they'll stand up to hot-rod engine heat. It's pricey, but that's a process which is much more likely to last. The best paint, from a ratings standpoint, is 1500 degrees, and that's not really enough to use on the headers and expect it to last."
+*'''Ceramic coating:''' Check your local yellow pages for performance or exhaust shops that do ceramic coating. They claim they can do a range of colors, and that they'll stand up to hot-rod engine heat. It's pricey, but it's a process which is much more likely to last. The best paint, from a ratings standpoint, is 1500 degrees, and that's not really enough to use on the headers and expect it to last.
 ====Painting the headers====
-If you're still with us, and want to give this process a shot, here's your best chance at success. Keep in mind that you should use 1200 degree (F) (or higher) high temperature paint. Nothing else will stick for very long, especially on the headers. You will undoubtedly end up with flat paint, as glossy is pretty much unavailable in that heat range.
+If you're still with us and want to give this process a shot, here's your best chance at success. Keep in mind that you should use 1200 degree (F) (or higher) high temperature paint. Nothing else will stick for very long, especially on the headers. You will undoubtedly end up with flat paint, as glossy is pretty much unavailable in that heat range.
-Most of the trouble club members have had has come when they tried to paint the headers. The cans are not as hot, and will usually hold up better, but the header pipes, and the area where the header pipes join the slip-ons, have trouble holding paint, due to the high amount of heat they give off.
+Most of the trouble club members have had has come when they tried to paint the headers. The cans are not as hot and will usually hold up better, but the header pipes, and the area where the header pipes join the slip-ons, have trouble holding paint, due to the high amount of heat they give off.
-If you just strip the pipes (and don't paint them), they will rust. You can do this, then clean the pipe periodically with steel wool, but that falls into a "high maintenance" area for most people.
+If you just strip the pipes (and don't paint them) they will rust. You can do this, then clean the pipe periodically with steel wool, but that falls into a "high maintenance" area for most people.
 Sand the pipe with fine sandpaper and use a dremel tool with a wire brush to clean around the welds, then paint it. Make sure you take your time. Follow the directions on the can (especially regarding time between coats), apply thin coats, and the paint will stick better. Did we mention to follow the directions on the can?
@@ Line 37: / Line 37: @@
 Once you are satisfied with the look of your pipes,  you should “heat cycle” them. This works better than just popping them on and going for a ride:
 *After you start the bike for the first time, run it for 30-60 seconds, shut it down, let it get cool again... Do that about half a dozen times before you get it hot for any extended period.
 ====Painting the mufflers====
@@ Line 56: / Line 56: @@
 [[Image:Blackmuff.jpg|180px]]
+====Painting chrome====
+Sand chrome as you would any metal (with a VERY coarse grit), and kill the shine. Clean properly with thinner, let dry, and use an etching primer. Then, apply the base and clearcoat as usual.
 ====Long-term results====
@@ Line 71: / Line 75: @@
 [http://www.caswellplating.com/vht/vht_high.htm Caswell Plating VHT]
-[http://www.duplicolor.com/products/engine.html Dupli-Color High Heat]
+[http://www.duplicolor.com/ Dupli-Color High Heat]
+[http://www.hirschauto.com/ Bill Hirsch Auto Paints]
+[http://www.plastikote.com/index.jsp plasti-kote paints]
+====Before & after painting photos====
+The following pictures are of a 16 year-old system done with Duplicolor high heat and lots of prep time. How long they will stay looking like this is anyone's guess.
+Send $20 and we'll send you the plans to the high-tech 3 mil spray booth:
+N250RC FAQ Beer Fund<br>
+Box 250 Taipei, Taiwan ROC
+[[image:exhaust 01.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:exhaust 02.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:exhaust 03.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:exhaust 04.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:exhaust 05.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:exhaust 06.jpg|150px]]
-[http://www.hirschauto.com/acb/showdetl.cfm?&DID=27&Product_ID=12&CATID=1 Bill Hirsch Auto Paints]
+You can try scrubbing, you can try soaking, but chances are you're not going to get that pitting out.
-[http://www.plastikote.com/plastikote/auto/index.jsp plasti-kote paints]
+[[image:exhaust 07.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:exhaust 08.jpg|150px]]