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Painting cheaply with Rust-Oleum: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
[[Category:Bodywork & Frame]]
====Repainting a Ninja inexpensively: a member's experience====
__TOC__


Courtesy of [http://www.ninja250.org/michaelingeorgia michaelingeorgia]
Courtesy of [http://www.ninja250.org/michaelingeorgia michaelingeorgia]


====Background====
==Background==
 
The technique shown here comes from a well-documented discussion in a [http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 Mopar thread] that's several years old now.  
The technique shown here comes from a well-documented discussion in a [http://board.moparts.org/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=0&Number=2331682&page=0&fpart=1&vc=1 Mopar thread] that's several years old now.  


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First things first, though... If you are interested in this method, I'd recommend that you get a spare side-fairing and do a complete test on it. The side fairing is best, because it's cheap and the easiest part to paint. If you do a good job, then it's one less part to have for the final project, and you can keep the original as a spare or sell it. It's very important to have even that little bit of experience, however, before investing a great deal of time in something as complex as a front fairing.  
First things first, though... If you are interested in this method, I'd recommend that you get a spare side-fairing and do a complete test on it. The side fairing is best, because it's cheap and the easiest part to paint. If you do a good job, then it's one less part to have for the final project, and you can keep the original as a spare or sell it. It's very important to have even that little bit of experience, however, before investing a great deal of time in something as complex as a front fairing.  


====Materials====
==Materials==


The materials are few and cheap.  
The materials are few and cheap.  
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* Various sanding papers. Make sure you get paper specifically for WET sanding. Your rough abrasions are going to take a rough paper at first, and maybe even spot putty. Otherwise, you'll be using 400, 600, 1000, and 1500 grade papers.  
* Various sanding papers. Make sure you get paper specifically for WET sanding. Your rough abrasions are going to take a rough paper at first, and maybe even spot putty. Otherwise, you'll be using 400, 600, 1000, and 1500 grade papers.  


====Process====
==Process==


The method is simple, but does take time and patience. First, prepare the surface of your bike parts. With the Rust-Oleum, you don't have to sand down to bare metal/plastic. You just want a nice surface to work with.
The method is simple, but does take time and patience. First, prepare the surface of your bike parts. With the Rust-Oleum, you don't have to sand down to bare metal/plastic. You just want a nice surface to work with.
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That's the process. A first rate paint job for your Ninja for less than $20 worth of materials. (Not counting the buffer/polisher, which you may already have and certainly can use again). You can get professional results if you are PATIENT. Is it EASIER to use traditional professional spray methods? Yes... but only IF you have the skills AND the gear AND the facilities. If not, then you'll likely get MUCH better looking results with this method than using the pro method from a compromised position.
That's the process. A first rate paint job for your Ninja for less than $20 worth of materials. (Not counting the buffer/polisher, which you may already have and certainly can use again). You can get professional results if you are PATIENT. Is it EASIER to use traditional professional spray methods? Yes... but only IF you have the skills AND the gear AND the facilities. If not, then you'll likely get MUCH better looking results with this method than using the pro method from a compromised position.


====Followup: six weeks later====
==Followup: six weeks later==


'''Q & A'''
'''Q & A'''
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"Did it take wax well?"  
"Did it take wax well?"  


I haven't even waxed yet. Although I suppose any paint job benefits from a good wax job, this one
I haven't even waxed yet. Although I suppose any paint job benefits from a good wax job, this one really finished up with a nice glossy buffing. I have, however, washed it a couple of times.
really finished up with a nice glossy buffing. I have, however, washed it a couple of times.


"Would you do it the same way again?"  
"Would you do it the same way again?"  
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Paint inside. Seriously. There's no overspray, or fumes, or smell. Doing it in the garage was well-intentioned, but unnecessary. It was a HOT week in July. I'll wet sand in the garage, but then the parts are going into an unused room for painting and drying.
Paint inside. Seriously. There's no overspray, or fumes, or smell. Doing it in the garage was well-intentioned, but unnecessary. It was a HOT week in July. I'll wet sand in the garage, but then the parts are going into an unused room for painting and drying.


====Instructional video====
==Instructional video==


[http://www.ninja250.org/actionace actionace] put together three videos showing the Rust-Oleum process on his gas tank. To answer a few questions:
[http://www.ninja250.org/actionace actionace] put together three videos showing the Rust-Oleum process on his gas tank. To answer a few questions:
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