Removing/replacing the rear wheel: Difference between revisions

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*Remove the axle nut cotter pin. Remove the axle nut (24mm or 15/16").

*Loosen the [[How do I measure chain slack?|chain adjusters]] enough that they can swing down (previous generation) or completely back off the adjusting nut (new generation). Lay a rag or newspaper on the ground to keep the chain from picking up grit once the axle has been removed.

*Slide the wheel forward; you may have to kick it to get it to move, but be sure to have a firm grasp on the grab bar to prevent ~~moving~~ the bike off the centerstand. Lift the chain off the sprocket and place to the side.

*Slide the wheel forward; you may have to kick it to get it to move, but be sure to have a firm grasp on the grab bar to prevent knocking the bike off the centerstand (this is sage advice even if you push rather than kick the wheel.) Lift the chain off the sprocket and place to the side.

*While supporting the wheel, pull out the axle; it may help to wiggle the wheel if the axle binds, and you may need to tap on it with a rubber/plastic mallet. Swing the brake caliper up out of the way, still connected to the torque link. Pull the wheel spacers out and set aside so they don't get lost. Slide the wheel rearward to remove. It will need to be angled to clear the stock fender -- be careful not to bash the brake disc.

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====Reattaching the wheel====

Reinstalling the wheel is the exact reverse of removal (above). On previous-gen bikes, the chain adjusters will fall off when the axle is removed; don't forget to reinstall them. The left-side wheel spacer in particular requires patience and careful manipulation to get into place, and having a helper to hold the wheel up can ease the task considerably. Note that the side with the circular portion around the hole faces outward. Also, even though the two should be identical, if you have trouble getting the axle through them, try swapping them.

Be sure use the [[Torque Values|proper torque]] on everything. If inserting the axle gives you trouble, try this:

Sit on the ground behind the bike. Hold the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, or a board, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer while moving the wheel up and down a little with your left hand. You can also use a length of wood as a hammer, but ~~ideally~~ a metal-faced hammer should not be used.

Sit on the ground behind the bike. Hold the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, or a board, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer while moving the wheel up and down a little with your left hand. You can also use a length of wood as a hammer, but a metal-faced hammer should not be used.

You may have to lower the right muffler in order to tighten the torque link properly. Don't forget to install a new cotter pin on the axle nut. You can buy an assortment at an auto parts or hardware store or find a reusable alternative such as a D-clip or R-clip:

@@ Line 11: / Line 11: @@
 *Remove the axle nut cotter pin. Remove the axle nut (24mm or 15/16").
 *Loosen the [[How do I measure chain slack?|chain adjusters]] enough that they can swing down (previous generation) or completely back off the adjusting nut (new generation).  Lay a rag or newspaper on the ground to keep the chain from picking up grit once the axle has been removed.
-*Slide the wheel forward; you may have to kick it to get it to move, but be sure to have a firm grasp on the grab bar to prevent moving the bike off the centerstand. Lift the chain off the sprocket and place to the side.
+*Slide the wheel forward; you may have to kick it to get it to move, but be sure to have a firm grasp on the grab bar to prevent knocking the bike off the centerstand (this is sage advice even if you push rather than kick the wheel.) Lift the chain off the sprocket and place to the side.
 *While supporting the wheel, pull out the axle; it may help to wiggle the wheel if the axle binds, and you may need to tap on it with a rubber/plastic mallet. Swing the brake caliper up out of the way, still connected to the torque link.  Pull the wheel spacers out and set aside so they don't get lost.  Slide the wheel rearward to remove.  It will need to be angled to clear the stock fender -- be careful not to bash the brake disc.
@@ Line 20: / Line 20: @@
 ====Reattaching the wheel====
-Reinstalling the wheel is the exact reverse of removal (above). On previous-gen bikes, the chain adjusters will fall off when the axle is removed; don't forget to reinstall them.  The left-side wheel spacer in particular requires patience and careful manipulation to get into place, and having a helper to hold the wheel up can ease the task considerably. Note that the side with the circular portion around the hole faces outward. Also, even though the two should be identical, if you have trouble getting the axle through them, try swapping them.
+Reinstalling the wheel is the exact reverse of removal (above). On previous-gen bikes, the chain adjusters will fall off when the axle is removed; don't forget to reinstall them. The left-side wheel spacer in particular requires patience and careful manipulation to get into place, and having a helper to hold the wheel up can ease the task considerably. Note that the side with the circular portion around the hole faces outward. Also, even though the two should be identical, if you have trouble getting the axle through them, try swapping them.
 Be sure use the [[Torque Values|proper torque]] on everything. If inserting the axle gives you trouble, try this:
-Sit on the ground behind the bike. Hold the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, or a board, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer while moving the wheel up and down a little with your left hand.  You can also use a length of wood as a hammer, but ideally a metal-faced hammer should not be used.
+Sit on the ground behind the bike. Hold the wheel up with your left hand, or your feet, or a board, and feed the axle in with your right. When it starts to hang up (and it almost always does), tap (not whack! just tap) the head of the bolt with a rubber or plastic hammer while moving the wheel up and down a little with your left hand.  You can also use a length of wood as a hammer, but a metal-faced hammer should not be used.
 You may have to lower the right muffler in order to tighten the torque link properly. Don't forget to install a new cotter pin on the axle nut. You can buy an assortment at an auto parts or hardware store or find a reusable alternative such as a D-clip or R-clip: