First days: Living with a motorcycle: Difference between revisions
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You've taken the MSF class, bought your gear, and made the Big Purchase. There's a motorcycle in your life now, but how do you deal with it? This is a guide to those first few experiences on the bike that MSF didn't cover, and all the books seem to skip over. | You've taken the MSF class, bought your gear, and made the Big Purchase. There's a motorcycle in your life now, but how do you deal with it? This is a guide to those first few experiences on the bike that MSF didn't cover, and all the books seem to skip over. | ||
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This is also very specifically a guide for the first few days of new bike ownership. This advice doesn't necessarily apply to any more-advanced use such as touring, aggressive riding, racing, etc. | This is also very specifically a guide for the first few days of new bike ownership. This advice doesn't necessarily apply to any more-advanced use such as touring, aggressive riding, racing, etc. | ||
==Parking == | |||
Parking a motorcycle is not as obvious as it would initially appear. Sure, parking in a big flat parking lot is easy, but there ar other considerations. | Parking a motorcycle is not as obvious as it would initially appear. Sure, parking in a big flat parking lot is easy, but there ar other considerations. | ||
====Which Stand to Use==== | |||
If you only have a sidestand, this section doesn't apply to you so much. | If you only have a sidestand, this section doesn't apply to you so much. | ||
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If your bike is heavily loaded, using the centerstand may be easier, since it doesn't tip the bike to either side. Loaded-down bikes have a higher center of gravity, which makes them much harder to control when tipped over a little bit. | If your bike is heavily loaded, using the centerstand may be easier, since it doesn't tip the bike to either side. Loaded-down bikes have a higher center of gravity, which makes them much harder to control when tipped over a little bit. | ||
====Parking on a Hill==== | |||
Parking your bike on an incline presents special problems. Even on the sidestand, you can park in such a way that it'll easily fall over, unless you follow a few simple rules: | Parking your bike on an incline presents special problems. Even on the sidestand, you can park in such a way that it'll easily fall over, unless you follow a few simple rules: | ||
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In any of these cases, the final trick to parking on a hill is to leave the bike in first gear. That prevents the bike from rolling. Once the engine is stopped, let out the clutch lever, and let the bike take up any slack in the engine before you set it down on the stand. It acts just like a parking brake. Remember to take the bike out of gear when starting it, or you could have trouble with safety interlocks in the clutch or sidestand keeping the bike from starting. | In any of these cases, the final trick to parking on a hill is to leave the bike in first gear. That prevents the bike from rolling. Once the engine is stopped, let out the clutch lever, and let the bike take up any slack in the engine before you set it down on the stand. It acts just like a parking brake. Remember to take the bike out of gear when starting it, or you could have trouble with safety interlocks in the clutch or sidestand keeping the bike from starting. | ||
====Where to Park==== | |||
Motorcycles fit in a lot of spaces where cars don't. When I park, I usually try to avoid taking up a full-sized car spot, but sometimes it's unavoidable. Check your local laws, but some alternate parking spots may include: | Motorcycles fit in a lot of spaces where cars don't. When I park, I usually try to avoid taking up a full-sized car spot, but sometimes it's unavoidable. Check your local laws, but some alternate parking spots may include: | ||
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If you decide to park in a full-sized car spot, park near the entrance to the spot, with your bike's tail towards traffic. There are several factors at play here. Leave the bike near the entrance (closer to traffic) to make it obvious that the parking spot is filled. A bike pulled way into the spot looks empty until the car driver pulls part-way in, and that may make the driver angry. An angry driver can smoosh your bike flat, or may take it out on another motorcyclist later. Leave the bike parked with the tail towards traffic because the tail is more durable than the front end, in case an inattentive or angry driver ''does'' hit the bike. Parking at the back of the spot also helps you avoid the big grease-spot where cars' engines have dropped motor oil for the last 20 years. This grease can cling to your tires, making for a very exciting time at your next turn. | If you decide to park in a full-sized car spot, park near the entrance to the spot, with your bike's tail towards traffic. There are several factors at play here. Leave the bike near the entrance (closer to traffic) to make it obvious that the parking spot is filled. A bike pulled way into the spot looks empty until the car driver pulls part-way in, and that may make the driver angry. An angry driver can smoosh your bike flat, or may take it out on another motorcyclist later. Leave the bike parked with the tail towards traffic because the tail is more durable than the front end, in case an inattentive or angry driver ''does'' hit the bike. Parking at the back of the spot also helps you avoid the big grease-spot where cars' engines have dropped motor oil for the last 20 years. This grease can cling to your tires, making for a very exciting time at your next turn. | ||
==Filling It Up== | |||
Filling a motorcycle's gas tank is not like filling up a car. You can't just shove the nozzle in as far as it'll go and grab the handle. With most bikes, that will result in a tank filled about half way. | Filling a motorcycle's gas tank is not like filling up a car. You can't just shove the nozzle in as far as it'll go and grab the handle. With most bikes, that will result in a tank filled about half way. | ||
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Once you've filled up the tank and closed the lid, check to make sure (if you have one) that your fuel petcock is set to the ON position and not to RES or Reserve, or OFF. For more discussion on what reserve means, please see [[How does the reserve tank work?|this FAQ article]]. If you have two petcocks, check both of them. Fuel injected bikes don't have a petcock at all for normal operation. | Once you've filled up the tank and closed the lid, check to make sure (if you have one) that your fuel petcock is set to the ON position and not to RES or Reserve, or OFF. For more discussion on what reserve means, please see [[How does the reserve tank work?|this FAQ article]]. If you have two petcocks, check both of them. Fuel injected bikes don't have a petcock at all for normal operation. | ||
====Fuel Gauge ==== | ====Fuel Gauge==== | ||
Most motorcycles don't include a fuel gauge. On those that do, the fuel gauge is usually inaccurate or worse. The best way to solve this problem is to use your trip meter. If your bike has several trip meters, pick one for gas and always use it that way. | Most motorcycles don't include a fuel gauge. On those that do, the fuel gauge is usually inaccurate or worse. The best way to solve this problem is to use your trip meter. If your bike has several trip meters, pick one for gas and always use it that way. | ||
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At a minimum, you need to track mileage since the last fill (conveniently there on the trip odometer if you reset it with each fill) and gallons used. It's also handy to record the date and odometer reading; tracking which gas station/brand you use can also be helpful. | At a minimum, you need to track mileage since the last fill (conveniently there on the trip odometer if you reset it with each fill) and gallons used. It's also handy to record the date and odometer reading; tracking which gas station/brand you use can also be helpful. | ||
==When to Use the Choke== | |||
Most motorcycles these days still have a choke or fast-idle lever (referred to as a choke lever from here out). On many bikes it's on the left handlebar near the grip, but they can also be found elsewhere on the handlebar, or near the carburetor. Your owner's manual should explain where it is. | Most motorcycles these days still have a choke or fast-idle lever (referred to as a choke lever from here out). On many bikes it's on the left handlebar near the grip, but they can also be found elsewhere on the handlebar, or near the carburetor. Your owner's manual should explain where it is. | ||
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The best way to [[Warming up your engine|warm up your bike]] is to ride it. It shouldn't take more than a few minutes before it's warm enough to turn the choke all the way off. | The best way to [[Warming up your engine|warm up your bike]] is to ride it. It shouldn't take more than a few minutes before it's warm enough to turn the choke all the way off. | ||
==What to do with Documents== | |||
There are a number of important documents you should always carry with you. Vehicle registration and proof of insurance are the obvious ones, but you should also carry a sheet with basic medical information in the same place. I use [http://www.wetleather.com/medform this medical form], but any piece of paper which contains roughly that information will suffice. The most important information is your contact information, the name of your emergency contact, what you're allergic to, and what you're taking right now. | There are a number of important documents you should always carry with you. Vehicle registration and proof of insurance are the obvious ones, but you should also carry a sheet with basic medical information in the same place. I use [http://www.wetleather.com/medform this medical form], but any piece of paper which contains roughly that information will suffice. The most important information is your contact information, the name of your emergency contact, what you're allergic to, and what you're taking right now. | ||
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Note that you should never carry your bike's title with you. That should be kept somewhere secure, in a place where you can find it if you need it. | Note that you should never carry your bike's title with you. That should be kept somewhere secure, in a place where you can find it if you need it. | ||
==Maintenance You Can Do== | |||
Here are some of the things you can do, even with no experience or tools. These are all important actions to take when you own a motorcycle, since a bike has a much smaller margin for mechanical problems when compared to a car. | Here are some of the things you can do, even with no experience or tools. These are all important actions to take when you own a motorcycle, since a bike has a much smaller margin for mechanical problems when compared to a car. | ||
====Check the Oil==== | |||
Your engine's oil should be checked about every week or two, or every time you ride if it's less often than that. | Your engine's oil should [[How do I check my oil?|be checked]] about every week or two, or every time you ride if it's less often than that. | ||
Some bikes have a dipstick, and some bikes have a sight window. Check your owner's manual to see which you have | Some bikes have a dipstick, and some bikes have a sight window. Check your owner's manual to see which you have and where it's located, but they're both easy to check. Always check the oil at least five minutes after the engine last ran, to let most of the oil settle out of the upper reaches of the engine. | ||
If you have a dipstick, chances are good it's attached to your oil fill cap. This is a hand-removable cap facing upward, somewhere on the engine. Put the bike up on its stand, ideally on the centerstand. Your manual may specify how the bike should be sitting to check the oil; find that information and follow it. Almost always the bike needs to be upright rather than on the sidestand, and on level ground. | If you have a dipstick, chances are good it's attached to your oil fill cap. This is a hand-removable cap facing upward, somewhere on the engine. Put the bike up on its stand, ideally on the centerstand. Your manual may specify how the bike should be sitting to check the oil; find that information and follow it. Almost always the bike needs to be upright rather than on the sidestand, and on level ground. | ||
First, grab a rag | First, grab a rag and loosen the cap. Put the bike in the correct position. Note that if you have to have it upright but you don't have a stand to help, you can just sit on the bike, or have a friend hold it for you. Pull out the dipstick and wipe it off. Put it back into the engine and let it sit for a second, then pull it out again. Look at the end of the dipstick. You should see some oil right on the end, and it should come up some length of the dipstick. Near where the oil ends on the stick should be two marks, a "high" mark and a "low" mark. You want the oil to end between these two marks. It shouldn't go over the high mark, and should never ever go below the low mark. | ||
If you have a sight glass, [[How do I check my oil?|it's even easier]]. Get the bike into the correct position | If you have a sight glass, [[How do I check my oil?|it's even easier]]. Get the bike into the correct position and take a look at the sight glass. You may need a flashlight or something if you're not outside in daylight (and sometimes even if you are). There should be some indication of a high and low mark. Sometimes it's a circle on the glass, sometimes it's lines on the glass or on the case near the glass, etc. The oil level should settle out somewhere between those two marks. | ||
If the oil level is too low, add some oil before you ride again. It probably doesn't take much oil to get from the bottom mark to the top mark, so add it slowly and re-check often. Try adding around an ounce of oil at a time at first | If the oil level is too low, add some oil before you ride again. It probably doesn't take much oil to get from the bottom mark to the top mark, so add it slowly and re-check often. Try adding around an ounce of oil at a time at first to gauge how fast the level goes up. | ||
Some people may tell you that it's terribly important not to mix different types of oil, but it isn't really. Oil, for the most part, is oil. Mixing different weights or brands or even synthetic and non synthetic doesn't make much difference. It's much more important that you have enough oil | Some people may tell you that it's terribly important not to mix different types of oil, but it isn't really. Oil, for the most part, is oil. Mixing different weights or brands, or even synthetic and non-synthetic, doesn't make much difference. It's much more important that you have ''enough'' oil than to worry about type, weight or brand. | ||
The one exception to that rule is that for most motorcycles | The one exception to that rule is that for most motorcycles you want to avoid [[Preferred Brands|"Energy Conserving" oil]]. That rating on the bottle means that the oil could cause your clutch to slip. This isn't a problem for some bikes, but unless you're sure, avoid the Energy Conserving oils. | ||
====Lubricate and Adjust the Chain==== | |||
Your drive chain needs to be lubricated and checked for adjustment at least every 500 miles (800 km). | Your drive chain needs to be lubricated and checked for adjustment at least every 500 miles (800 km). | ||
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Cleaning the chain is ''way'' easier if you have a centerstand, or swingarm stand. If you don't, you'll have to push the bike around a parking lot as you expose different segments of chain. | Cleaning the chain is ''way'' easier if you have a centerstand, or swingarm stand. If you don't, you'll have to push the bike around a parking lot as you expose different segments of chain. | ||
It's best to [[How do I clean the drivechain?|clean the chain first]] | It's best to [[How do I clean the drivechain?|clean the chain first]]. Soak the chain with your cleaner of choice, and then wipe it off with a rag you don't care about (this is a messy job!). If you have latex or nitrile gloves, this is a good job for them. | ||
Once the chain is clean, go for a little ride | Once the chain is clean, go for a little ride, ideally about 5-10 miles. This will warm up the chain and evaporate any cleaner left on it. This short ride without any lubrication won't hurt the chain. | ||
As soon as you get back, start applying your lube of choice to the chain. A good method is to apply a drop of lube to each roller, one on each side, at the sideplate. Apply it on the inside of the chain, so it will tend to work itself outward once the chain is spinning. You mostly want the lube to get down between the sideplates of the chain. Lubricating the rollers and the outside of the chain is fine, but you really want it inside the chain. | As soon as you get back, start applying your lube of choice to the chain. A good method is to apply a drop of lube to each roller, one on each side, at the sideplate. Apply it on the inside of the chain, so it will tend to work itself outward once the chain is spinning. You mostly want the lube to get down between the sideplates of the chain. Lubricating the rollers and the outside of the chain is fine, but you really want it inside the chain. | ||
Once the chain has gone a full revolution and you've hit every link, wipe off any excess with your rag. You're done with lubricating. | Once the chain has gone a full revolution and you've hit every link, wipe off any excess with your rag. You're done with lubricating. | ||
For more information on lubing the chain, [[How often should I lube the chain; what should I use to do so?|see here]]. | |||
For information on checking your drivechain's slack, see [[How do I measure chain slack?|this article]]. | For information on checking your drivechain's slack, see [[How do I measure chain slack?|this article]]. | ||
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You will need a [[What sort of pressure gauges are available?|tire pressure gauge]] to do this. These are available for as little as a dollar or two (or your local currency's equivalent) at an auto parts store. | You will need a [[What sort of pressure gauges are available?|tire pressure gauge]] to do this. These are available for as little as a dollar or two (or your local currency's equivalent) at an auto parts store. | ||
Checking the tire pressure is about as simple as they come. Locate the valve stem on one of your wheels | Checking the tire pressure is about as simple as they come. Locate the valve stem on one of your wheels and take off the cap. If you don't have a valve stem cap, nip down to the parts store and pick up some spares. They're cheap, and they'll keep crud out of your valves. With the cap off, push the pressure gauge down over valve so that the receptacle is seated firmly and squarely. It'll stop hissing when you've found the right position. | ||
Pull off the gauge | Pull off the gauge and look at what it indicates. I can't offer you any advice on [[What tire pressures should I use?|what pressures]] you should run, but your owner's manual should have that information. If the gauge indicates too low, get yourself to an air pump (bicycle tire pump, air compressor, etc.) and inflate the tire until it's at the manufacturer's recommendation. Because motorcycle tires are relatively low volume; it doesn't take much air to change the pressure up or down. | ||
Note that even a small difference in pressure (like 1-2 PSI, or .05 - .1 bar) can noticeably change the handling of the bike. It's worth it to check the tire pressure about once a week, or every time you ride if it's less often | Note that even a small difference in pressure (like 1-2 PSI, or .05 - .1 bar) can noticeably change the handling of the bike. It's worth it to check the tire pressure about once a week, or every time you ride if it's less often. | ||
====Check the Electrical Components ==== | ====Check the Electrical Components ==== | ||
A simple check you can do at the beginning of every ride is to check all the lights and the horn. It takes about 20 seconds | A simple check you can do at the beginning of every ride is to check all the lights and the horn. It takes about 20 seconds and could be a lifesaver. | ||
Before you start the bike, check to make sure all the idiot lights which are supposed to be glowing are on (the owner's manual should detail this, but it's usually oil pressure and a few others). Once the bike is started, make sure the following lights are on: | Before you start the bike, check to make sure all the idiot lights which are supposed to be glowing are on (the owner's manual should detail this, but it's usually oil pressure and a few others). These lights come on when you turn the key on, but before you start the engine. This is to show that they actually work. Once the bike is started, make sure the following lights are on: | ||
*Headlight | *Headlight | ||
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*Horn button | *Horn button | ||
This serves the double purpose of checking the switch | This serves the double purpose of checking the switch and checking the light or other device. If anything isn't working, fix it before going for a ride. Motorcycles are already at a huge disadvantage in traffic, and losing any of those signals is unacceptable (and probably illegal). | ||
==Securing the Bike== | |||
Once you're done riding, you may want to secure your bike. Motorcycle theft is rampant, particularly in urban areas, and particularly of high-value or lightweight bikes. | Once you're done riding, you may want to secure your bike. Motorcycle theft is rampant, particularly in urban areas, and particularly of high-value or lightweight bikes. | ||
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Any of these methods can be combined with others for more effective security. A thief who sees a cable lock, locked forks and an alarmed disc lock is very likely to move on to an easier target. Really, that's all you want. In particular, an alarm becomes a bit more attractive if it's combined with a cable or chain locking the bike to something sturdy. A brake lever lock is still a terrible idea, no matter what you pair it with. | Any of these methods can be combined with others for more effective security. A thief who sees a cable lock, locked forks and an alarmed disc lock is very likely to move on to an easier target. Really, that's all you want. In particular, an alarm becomes a bit more attractive if it's combined with a cable or chain locking the bike to something sturdy. A brake lever lock is still a terrible idea, no matter what you pair it with. | ||
==Final thoughts== | |||
Your first motorcycle is one you'll always remember, even if it's not the one you really wanted. Treat it with respect, for even the cheapest 50cc scooter is still capable of killing you without too much effort. If you haven't yet taken the MSF Basic Rider Course, please sign up and take it as soon as you can. That class will give you the real-world basics to make motorcycling much more fun and much safer. If you don't yet have a good set of gear, [ | Your first motorcycle is one you'll always remember, even if it's not the one you really wanted. Treat it with respect, for even the cheapest 50cc scooter is still capable of killing you without too much effort. If you haven't yet taken the MSF Basic Rider Course, please sign up and take it as soon as you can. That class will give you the real-world basics to make motorcycling much more fun and much safer. If you don't yet have a good set of gear, [[If you only read one article about gear|read this article]] and go buy the best you can afford. | ||
Hopefully this article has made it a bit easier to spend the first few days with your bike. Remember that this advice doesn't necessarily apply to more-advanced uses of the bike, and you should seek that out elsewhere. Specifically, if you're planning on racing or touring on your motorcycle, you need advice and expertise specific to those fields. | Hopefully this article has made it a bit easier to spend the first few days with your bike. Remember that this advice doesn't necessarily apply to more-advanced uses of the bike, and you should seek that out elsewhere. Specifically, if you're planning on racing or touring on your motorcycle, you need advice and expertise specific to those fields. | ||
''This work is Copyright © 2004 by Ian Johnston. Permission is explicitly granted for non-commercial reproduction with credit.'' | ''This work is Copyright © 2004 by Ian Johnston. Permission is explicitly granted for non-commercial reproduction with credit.'' | ||