Cleaning the carbs 1: Difference between revisions

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====Pine-Sol method====

Pine-Sol works quite well for really mucked-up carbs.

[[image:CBR600F 001.jpg|150px]]

[[image:CBR600F 002.jpg|150px]]

[[image:CBR600F 003.jpg|150px]]

[[image:CBR600F 005.jpg|150px]]

Buy a couple bottles of Pine-Sol and mix up 3 parts Pine-Sol to one part water. Pine-Sol doesn't hurt rubber/plastic, so you can leave all the hoses and plastic pipes on the carbs. This will make the hoses more pliable, and you can do the same with the intake manifold boots as well.

You do need to remove and not soak the slides. The slides and diaphragms are all one piece on the 250 carbs. So, remove the 4 screws holding each black top cover, pull those covers, the springs, and then the slides.

[[Image:IMG_2310.jpg|150px]]

To get the most benefit from soaking, the float bowls, floats, fuel needles, needle seats, jets, and emulsion tubes (the, uh, tube that the main jet screws into) should come out as well. Soak the jets and everything else you removed, except for the slides and diaphragms. You should also work the choke a few times while submerged to get the Pine-Sol everywhere.

Find a BIG container/bucket and some sort of fine wire rack or mesh sieve (like ones for a BBQ grill) that fits inside. The mesh will let all the yucky stuff that falls off settle on the bottom, and you won't have to fish around in the murky fluid looking for one washer or small bolt/screw. Pour enough of the Pine-Sol solution into the bucket to cover the carbs.

Soak the carbs and parts for about four days. Scrub the open areas just a bit with a toothbrush and green scrubby. Then do a normal [[Cleaning the carbs 2|carb cleaning]] for the jets and interior passages of the carbs. The set of CBR600 carbs shown in the pictures at the top of this section now look like this, and the bike starts and runs well, without a lot of hard work.

[[image:CBR600F 009.jpg|150px]]

For more information, read further down this page, see [[Carburetor photos]], [[EX250 parts diagrams]], and look at the other parts of [[How do I work on the carbs?]].

====Berryman Chem Dip method====

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loudboys says that [http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146 Berryman Chem Dip] is the best carb cleaner on the planet. It comes in a gallon can; basically a paint can with an included basket to put the parts in and lower them into the can. He's been using it for 25 years. You can take a carburetor that's been sitting in a junkyard for decades and clean it in an hour. The really great thing about it is that after you're done, you put the top back on and use it again later. A can of it will last for years.

'''Notice''': You have to keep '''all rubber and paint''' well away from it (including rubber o-rings, diaphragms and seals). Hard plastic parts won't be affected. You'll want to wear gloves when you use it.

==Stuff you need and need to know==

@@ Line 15: / Line 15: @@
 ====Pine-Sol method====
+Pine-Sol works quite well for really mucked-up carbs.
+[[image:CBR600F 001.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:CBR600F 002.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:CBR600F 003.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:CBR600F 005.jpg|150px]]
+Buy a couple bottles of Pine-Sol and mix up 3 parts Pine-Sol to one part water. Pine-Sol doesn't hurt rubber/plastic, so you can leave all the hoses and plastic pipes on the carbs. This will make the hoses more pliable, and you can do the same with the intake manifold boots as well.
+You do need to remove and not soak the slides. The slides and diaphragms are all one piece on the 250 carbs. So, remove the 4 screws holding each black top cover, pull those covers, the springs, and then the slides.
+[[Image:IMG_2310.jpg|150px]]
+To get the most benefit from soaking, the float bowls, floats, fuel needles, needle seats, jets, and emulsion tubes (the, uh, tube that the main jet screws into) should come out as well. Soak the jets and everything else you removed, except for the slides and diaphragms. You should also work the choke a few times while submerged to get the Pine-Sol everywhere.
+Find a BIG container/bucket and some sort of fine wire rack or mesh sieve (like ones for a BBQ grill) that fits inside. The mesh will let all the yucky stuff that falls off settle on the bottom, and you won't have to fish around in the murky fluid looking for one washer or small bolt/screw. Pour enough of the Pine-Sol solution into the bucket to cover the carbs.
+Soak the carbs and parts for about four days. Scrub the open areas just a bit with a toothbrush and green scrubby. Then do a normal [[Cleaning the carbs 2|carb cleaning]] for the jets and interior passages of the carbs. The set of CBR600 carbs shown in the pictures at the top of this section now look like this, and the bike starts and runs well, without a lot of hard work.
+[[image:CBR600F 009.jpg|150px]]
+For more information, read further down this page, see [[Carburetor photos]], [[EX250 parts diagrams]], and look at the other parts of [[How do I work on the carbs?]].
 ====Berryman Chem Dip method====
@@ Line 22: / Line 44: @@
 loudboys says that [http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146 Berryman Chem Dip] is the best carb cleaner on the planet. It comes in a gallon can; basically a paint can with an included basket to put the parts in and lower them into the can. He's been using it for 25 years. You can take a carburetor that's been sitting in a junkyard for decades and clean it in an hour. The really great thing about it is that after you're done, you put the top back on and use it again later. A can of it will last for years.
 '''Notice''': You have to keep '''all rubber and paint''' well away from it (including rubber o-rings, diaphragms and seals). Hard plastic parts won't be affected. You'll want to wear gloves when you use it.
 ==Stuff you need and need to know==