Cleaning the carbs 1: Difference between revisions
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One important thought with regards to working on an engine is that any time you leave an opening to the engine you should block it. If you don't, then Murphy's law will just help you drop something inside. Paper towels are cheap and effective. | One important thought with regards to working on an engine is that any time you leave an opening to the engine you should block it. If you don't, then Murphy's law will just help you drop something inside. Paper towels are cheap and effective. | ||
====Screwdriver notes==== | |||
It's VERY important that you use a [[A beginner's guide to maintenance tools|quality screwdriver]] that's the right size and in good condition. If you don't, then you're going to bugger up the screw and cause yourself more headaches than just buying and using the right tool in the first place. The screws on carbs, brake reservoirs and the 250 bar ends are notorious for being stiff to remove. Don't let something like this happen to you: | It's VERY important that you use a [[A beginner's guide to maintenance tools|quality screwdriver]] that's the right size and in good condition. If you don't, then you're going to bugger up the screw and cause yourself more headaches than just buying and using the right tool in the first place. The screws on carbs, brake reservoirs and the 250 bar ends are notorious for being stiff to remove. Don't let something like this happen to you: | ||
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[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_7.JPG|150px]] | [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_7.JPG|150px]] | ||
A | A lot of screws on Japanese products are Japanese Industrial Standard JIS 4633B-3/1991 and DIN/ISO standard 5260, aka "[http://www.instructables.com/id/When-a-Phillips-is-not-a-Phillips/step10/JIS-Japanese-Industrial-Standard/ Japanese Phillips]". These usually have a dot to one side of the cross slot (above picture). These screwdrivers are available from [http://www.amessupply.com Ames Supply Company] and [http://www.katun.com Katun]. Using a normal American/European #1 or #2 Phillips screwdriver in a screw head with the dot on it will most likely strip the head on the first try. | ||
A couple other options for float bowl screw removal are listed below. Keep in mind that if alternative screwdrivers have any slop in the way they fit in your screw heads, you should probably have a vice grips handy. Whatever you do, plan on replacing the float bowl screws with allen-headed ones. | |||
:Try a [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives#Pozidriv Pozidriv] screwdriver or bit (a #2 in this case). You may find that this fits the screw slots better than a regular phillips, although our man's success was on screws which were 'pre-rounded' by Mr Previous Owner. | |||
*Some drywall driver bits work well for JIS screw heads, although they are supposed to be regular phillips heads. | |||
*Take a Dremel and cut slots in the screws, then use a flathead screwdriver to remove the ridiculously soft metal screws. You may have to cut a piece off of the idle adjustment bracket to get at one of the screws. | *Take a Dremel and cut slots in the screws, then use a flathead screwdriver to remove the ridiculously soft metal screws. You may have to cut a piece off of the idle adjustment bracket to get at one of the screws. | ||
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:[[Image:e7a7a786.jpg|150px]] [[Image:e7a7a782.jpg|150px]] | :[[Image:e7a7a786.jpg|150px]] [[Image:e7a7a782.jpg|150px]] | ||
* | *A more likely easier suggestion is to (carefully) put the carbs in a bench vice and remove the screws with an impact driver ''before'' you strip them. | ||
* | *As long as you're going to replace the screws anyway, use vice grips. Grip the screw top down and hold it hand tight (don't clamp it). Then twist; it should make a popping sound as it breaks free. As soon as it pops, stop twisting, get a phillips, and turn the screws out. | ||
====Carb parts==== | ====Carb parts==== | ||