Supporting Your Bike While Servicing: Difference between revisions

Line 27:

* Unscrew the bolt on the Negative (-) terminal of the battery. Push the wire aside, then screw the bolt back in (this way it won't get lost).

* Put a piece of duct/scotch tape on the terminal.

==Bike stands==

You'll see many ways of supporting your bike in this article. But if you're serious about working on your bike, you should really consider buying quality front and rear stands. They make working on your bike easier, faster, and safer. And, if you own one of the many modern bikes that come without a centerstand, having at least a rear stand is a very good idea.

====Stand selection====

This is one area where spending more money and buying the correct tool for the job makes a lot of difference. Cheaper stands tend to not be very stable, which can make them dangerous and, in the long run, more expensive.

One really important deficiency with cheap stands is that they don't fit a lot of bikes right out of the box. And how, you ask, do you make them fit? Why, by bending the arms further apart or closer together. Really. This makes them no longer in line on all planes. No matter what you do, one side will be a bit off. Good stands are adjustable.

This problem is especially critical with front stands that go into the ends of the forks. When popping the bike up onto one of them, you have to hold the front tire to stabilize the forks or else it goes off to one side. And, they are still incredibly unsteady if you touch the bike.

One of the other problems with these is that the front tire does not want to come out, because the bike is not lifted very high off the ground. A Pit Bull stand, on the other hand, brings the bike up nearly 4".

The pictures below show one of the cheap kind of front stands that go into the indents on the very end of the forks. These are HIGHLY UNSTABLE. There are several other things that are not even bike stands that would be more stable than this (read further).

[[image: 100_2041-2.jpg|150px]]

[[image: 100_2042-2.jpg|150px]]

[[image: 100_2044-2.jpg|150px]]

[[image: 100_2045-2.jpg|150px]]

There are so many brands of stands, so what to look for is not the ''brand'' but the TYPE. Stands that are one piece of bent round tube tend to be weak. Bend-to-fit stands are especially awful. They make them in rear stand varieties, too. They can be used but are more likely to drop your bike than quality stands.

[[image:DSCN0224-c-800.JPG|150px]]

All of this means that ''good'' stands have more production costs and thus more expense. But it's still cheaper to:

*Buy a $150 stand than a $250+ replacement fairing

*Buy a good stand in the first place, instead of getting a lousy one and replacing it

If you want to get really good stands, [http://www.pit-bull.com/ Pit Bull] is considered by many to be the top brand. They can be (literally) tossed around the paddock/garage for more than a decade and still work as designed. There are other good stands. Look at the design and get something sturdy.

====Front stands====

Of course, there is a civilized way of supporting the front: Use a front stand. But be careful when you do so. You '''have to''' either use a centerstand that is tall enough to keep the rear wheel off the ground or a rear/swingarm stand along with the front stand. Having the rear wheel on the ground and the front on a stand is just one small step more stable than the bike standing by itself on its own 2 wheels. Also, make sure you take the bike off the '''front''' stand first.

You should really only use the centerstand/front stand combination for short-term projects (less than one day). Longer than that and the rear stand adds noticeably more stability to the whole setup.

[[Image:Fork seals2-2.JPG|150px]]

[[image:100_1393.jpg|150px]]

There are two kinds of front stands: Those that lift by the bottom of the forks ("fork lift") and those that go under the lower triple. Of these, the triple tree stand is more stable and versatile.

[[image: fork lift stand.jpg|150px]]

[[image: 100_2038.jpg|150px]]

If you want to do anything other than take the front wheel off, the triple stand is the way to go.

A triple tree stand works with a pin that inserts in the hole in the triple. A standard pin with its sleeve adapter will work for most bikes, but you can get separate pins for specialized bikes. Some stands are sold with an assortment of pins. You can look at the Pit Bull [http://www.pit-bull.com/fitting-charts.shtml fitting charts] to find which pin fits your bike. The EX250F uses the standard pin, and the 250J takes pin #1.

[[image: 100_2039.jpg|150px]]

[[image: 100_2040.jpg|150px]]

'''Notes:'''

*One thing you'll have to do with a triple tree stand is unbolt the horn before you lift the bike, as it covers the hole where the front stand goes. This is really only a one or two minute inconvenience.

*If you have or ever get a Ducati, forget everything in this section. They don't have a hole through the steering stem.

====Rear stands====

These work in a fairly obvious way. Many modern bikes can be fitted with spools for the stand's feet to fit into (the EX250J, for example):

[[image:Swingarm Spools.jpg|150px]]

[[image: spools_10.jpg|150px]]

[[image:stand_and_spools.jpg|150px]]

For the EX250F, you'll need paddles that rest on the swingarm. Some stands have feet that can be changed from paddles to spools, and some only fit one or the other.

[[image: 100_2037.jpg|150]]

[[image: 100_2035.jpg|150]]

[[image: 100_2036.jpg|150]]

Just make sure to, if you're using a front stand, put the bike on the rear stand first and take it off the rear last.

== Alternatives for Supporting the Rear End ==

Luckily, the Ninja ~~250~~ has a centerstand, so it can be used to support the rear end.

Luckily, the Ninja 250F has a centerstand, so it can be used to support the rear end. A few comments about using the centerstand:

A few comments about using the centerstand:

* Some services require pushing the rear tire forward. This can easily result in collapsing of the centerstand and subsequent tip-over. Always block the front tire from moving with a brick or something similar to prevent such accidents. Using a tether to tie the front wheel to the centerstand works well, too.

* If you need to raise the rear end more than the centerstand does, put a board in front of the rear tire before putting the bike on the centerstand. This will wind up under your centerstand when you put it down, effectively making the centerstand longer. In this case blocking the front tire well is vital, since the nose of the bike is pointing down and it's very easy to rock the bike off the centerstand.

* Unfortunately, a bike on the centerstand is not stable enough side-to-side. If you are doing something that requires brute force (such as removing the axle nut) be very careful, as you can literally twist the bike into the ground. Having another person holding the bike is very useful in this situation.

* Unfortunately, a bike on the centerstand is not stable enough side-to-side. If you are doing something that requires brute force (such as removing the axle nut) be very careful, as you can literally twist the bike into the ground. Do any loosening of fasteners while the bike is on the sidestand. Having another person holding the bike is very useful in this situation.

* Finally, the centerstand is best used on a flat, sturdy surface. If you have trouble putting your bike on the centerstand, visit [[I am having trouble putting my bike on its centerstand | this link]].

*Sometimes you won't be able to use the centerstand. If you can find a secure way to hold up the rear of the bike using the grab bar, go ahead. Using secondary support with jackstands and a jack under the engine is still highly recommended. The straps on the front are for stabilizing the bike only; don't lift it by the bars.

:[[image:EX250_SuspensionMaintenance_05.jpg|150px]]

*Of course, if you are not satisfied with the centerstand, you can always buy a swingarm (rear) stand. They are quite handy for maintenance and all-around servicing. This model from [http://www.pit-bull.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_178&products_id=33&osCsid=baded96a419e29bdba3e3b57c05892fd Pit Bull] is known to work:

~~:[[Image:pitbullrear.jpg|150px]]~~

== Alternatives for Supporting the Front End ==

Line 58:

Line 127:

[[image:688890.jpg|150px]]

You can also prop the engine with a jack or jackstand (which goes under the oil drain bolt). <b>This method is less stable</b>, but allows you to raise or lower the front end smoothly~~, and with some jacks there is no need to remove the lower fairing~~.

You can also prop the engine with a jack or jackstand (which goes under the oil drain bolt). <b>This method is less stable</b>, but allows you to raise or lower the front end smoothly.

'''2)''' Of course, there is a civilized way of supporting the front: Use a front stand. But be careful when you do so. You '''have to''' either use a centerstand that is tall enough to keep the rear wheel off the ground or a rear/swingarm stand along with the front stand. Having the rear wheel on the ground and the front on a stand is just one small step more stable than the bike standing by itself on its own 2 wheels. Also, make sure you take the bike off the '''front''' stand first.

~~You should really only use the centerstand/front stand combination for short-term projects (less than one day). Longer than that and the rear stand adds noticeably more stability to the whole setup.~~

~~If you're buying a stand, the kind that supports the bike under the triple tree is more useful than the kind that goes under the forks:~~

~~[[Image:Fork seals2-2.JPG|150px]]~~

~~[[image:100_1393.jpg|150px]]~~

'''3a)''' If you have access to an overhead beam, a ratcheting tie-down (with a large ratchet mechanism) can be strung between the top triple clamp and the beam (or two beams - see picture below). Run your strap under one side of the triple, around the rear of the steering stem, then under the triple on the other side and back up to the rafter. Make sure it pulls evenly on both sides of the triple.

'''2a)''' If you have access to an overhead beam, a ratcheting tie-down (with a large ratchet mechanism) can be strung between the top triple clamp and the beam (or two beams - see picture below). Run your strap under one side of the triple, around the rear of the steering stem, then under the triple on the other side and back up to the rafter. Make sure it pulls evenly on both sides of the triple.

[[image:yeild.jpg|150px]]

Line 75:

Line 135:

If you use this method, be careful not to put pressure on any cables or wires, and ensure that the tie-down is pulling on the center of the bike. This is not the best way to do it, but can be useful when supporting under the bike isn't an option.

'''3b)''' A better way to do this is to loop the tie-down through the frame. There are two reasons for this. 1. It's impossible to do it around the top triple without removing a bolt holding the ignition wires in place. 2. You can't remove the triples when you're holding the bike up by them.

'''2b)''' A better way to do this is to loop the tie-down through the frame. There are two reasons for this. 1. It's impossible to do it around the top triple without removing a bolt holding the ignition wires in place. 2. You can't remove the triples when you're holding the bike up by them.

You don't need to disassemble anything for this option; it doesn't pinch or touch anything important, and it's fast. It's as stable as it gets when suspending a bike like this and on the center stand (meaning the front end swings a bit). Make sure you loosen any bolts while the front end is still on the ground. If your bike doesn't have a centerstand, you have to also use a rear stand.

Line 82:

Line 142:

[[image:IMG_2354-2.JPG|90px]]

'''4)''' If you just need to take the front wheel off, you can:

'''3)''' If you just need to take the front wheel off, you can:

* put the bike on the centerstand

@@ Line 27: / Line 27: @@
 * Unscrew the bolt on the Negative (-) terminal of the battery. Push the wire aside, then screw the bolt back in (this way it won't get lost).
 * Put a piece of duct/scotch tape on the terminal.
+==Bike stands==
+You'll see many ways of supporting your bike in this article. But if you're serious about working on your bike, you should really consider buying quality front and rear stands. They make working on your bike easier, faster, and safer. And, if you own one of the many modern bikes that come without a centerstand, having at least a rear stand is a very good idea.
+====Stand selection====
+This is one area where spending more money and buying the correct tool for the job makes a lot of difference. Cheaper stands tend to not be very stable, which can make them dangerous and, in the long run, more expensive.
+One really important deficiency with cheap stands is that they don't fit a lot of bikes right out of the box. And how, you ask, do you make them fit? Why, by bending the arms further apart or closer together. Really. This makes them no longer in line on all planes. No matter what you do, one side will be a bit off. Good stands are adjustable.
+This problem is especially critical with front stands that go into the ends of the forks. When popping the bike up onto one of them, you have to hold the front tire to stabilize the forks or else it goes off to one side. And, they are still  incredibly unsteady if you touch the bike.
+One of the other problems with these is that the front tire does not want to come out, because the bike is not lifted very high off the ground. A Pit Bull stand, on the other hand, brings the bike up nearly 4".
+The pictures below show one of the cheap kind of front stands that go into the indents on the very end of the forks. These are HIGHLY UNSTABLE. There are several other things that are not even bike stands that would be more stable than this (read further).
+[[image: 100_2041-2.jpg|150px]]
+[[image: 100_2042-2.jpg|150px]]
+[[image: 100_2044-2.jpg|150px]]
+[[image: 100_2045-2.jpg|150px]]
+There are so many brands of stands, so what to look for is not the ''brand'' but the TYPE. Stands that are one piece of bent round tube tend to be weak. Bend-to-fit stands are especially awful. They make them in rear stand varieties, too. They can be used but are more likely to drop your bike than quality stands.
+[[image:DSCN0224-c-800.JPG|150px]]
+All of this means that ''good'' stands have more production costs and thus more expense. But it's still cheaper to:
+*Buy a $150 stand than a $250+ replacement fairing
+*Buy a good stand in the first place, instead of getting a lousy one and replacing it
+If you want to get really good stands, [http://www.pit-bull.com/ Pit Bull] is considered by many to be the top brand. They can be (literally) tossed around the paddock/garage for more than a decade and still work as designed. There are other good stands. Look at the design and get something sturdy.
+====Front stands====
+Of course, there is a civilized way of supporting the front: Use a front stand. But be careful when you do so. You '''have to''' either use a centerstand that is tall enough to keep the rear wheel off the ground or a rear/swingarm stand along with the front stand. Having the rear wheel on the ground and the front on a stand is just one small step more stable than the bike standing by itself on its own 2 wheels. Also, make sure you take the bike off the '''front''' stand first.
+You should really only use the centerstand/front stand combination for short-term projects (less than one day). Longer than that and the rear stand adds noticeably more stability to the whole setup.
+[[Image:Fork seals2-2.JPG|150px]]
+[[image:100_1393.jpg|150px]]
+There are two kinds of front stands: Those that lift by the bottom of the forks ("fork lift") and those that go under the lower triple. Of these, the triple tree stand is more stable and versatile.
+[[image: fork lift stand.jpg|150px]]
+[[image: 100_2038.jpg|150px]]
+If you want to do anything other than take the front wheel off, the triple stand is the way to go.
+A triple tree stand works with a pin that inserts in the hole in the triple. A standard pin with its sleeve adapter will work for most bikes, but you can get separate pins for specialized bikes. Some stands are sold with an assortment of pins. You can look at the Pit Bull [http://www.pit-bull.com/fitting-charts.shtml fitting charts] to find which pin fits your bike. The EX250F uses the standard pin, and the 250J takes pin #1.
+[[image: 100_2039.jpg|150px]]
+[[image: 100_2040.jpg|150px]]
+'''Notes:'''
+*One thing you'll have to do with a triple tree stand is unbolt the horn before you lift the bike, as it covers the hole where the front stand goes. This is really only a one or two minute inconvenience.
+*If you have or ever get a Ducati, forget everything in this section. They don't have a hole through the steering stem.
+====Rear stands====
+These work in a fairly obvious way. Many modern bikes can be fitted with spools for the stand's feet to fit into (the EX250J, for example):
+[[image:Swingarm Spools.jpg|150px]]
+[[image: spools_10.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:stand_and_spools.jpg|150px]]
+For the EX250F, you'll need paddles that rest on the swingarm. Some stands have feet that can be changed from paddles to spools, and some only fit one or the other.
+[[image: 100_2037.jpg|150]]
+[[image: 100_2035.jpg|150]]
+[[image: 100_2036.jpg|150]]
+Just make sure to, if you're using a front stand, put the bike on the rear stand first and take it off the rear last.
 == Alternatives for Supporting the Rear End ==
-Luckily, the Ninja 250 has a centerstand, so it can be used to support the rear end.
+Luckily, the Ninja 250F has a centerstand, so it can be used to support the rear end. A few comments about using the centerstand:
-A few comments about using the centerstand:
 * Some services require pushing the rear tire forward. This can easily result in collapsing of the centerstand and subsequent tip-over. Always block the front tire from moving with a brick or something similar to prevent such accidents. Using a tether to tie the front wheel to the centerstand works well, too.
 * If you need to raise the rear end more than the centerstand does, put a board in front of the rear tire before putting the bike on the centerstand. This will wind up under your centerstand when you put it down, effectively making the centerstand longer. In this case blocking the front tire well is vital, since the nose of the bike is pointing down and it's very easy to rock the bike off the centerstand.
-* Unfortunately, a bike on the centerstand is not stable enough side-to-side. If you are doing something that requires brute force (such as removing the axle nut) be very careful, as you can literally twist the bike into the ground. Having another person holding the bike is very useful in this situation.
+* Unfortunately, a bike on the centerstand is not stable enough side-to-side. If you are doing something that requires brute force (such as removing the axle nut) be very careful, as you can literally twist the bike into the ground. Do any loosening of fasteners while the bike is on the sidestand. Having another person holding the bike is very useful in this situation.
 * Finally, the centerstand is best used on a flat, sturdy surface. If you have trouble putting your bike on the centerstand, visit [[I am having trouble putting my bike on its centerstand | this link]].
 *Sometimes you won't be able to use the centerstand. If you can find a secure way to hold up the rear of the bike using the grab bar, go ahead. Using secondary support with jackstands and a jack under the engine is still highly recommended. The straps on the front are for stabilizing the bike only; don't lift it by the bars.
 :[[image:EX250_SuspensionMaintenance_05.jpg|150px]]
-*Of course, if you are not satisfied with the centerstand, you can always buy a swingarm (rear) stand. They are quite handy for maintenance and all-around servicing. This model from [http://www.pit-bull.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=23_178&products_id=33&osCsid=baded96a419e29bdba3e3b57c05892fd  Pit Bull] is known to work:
-:[[Image:pitbullrear.jpg|150px]]
 == Alternatives for Supporting the Front End ==
@@ Line 58: / Line 127: @@
 [[image:688890.jpg|150px]]
-You can also prop the engine with a jack or jackstand (which goes under the oil drain bolt). <b>This method is less stable</b>, but allows you to raise or lower the front end smoothly, and with some jacks there is no need to remove the lower fairing.
+You can also prop the engine with a jack or jackstand (which goes under the oil drain bolt). <b>This method is less stable</b>, but allows you to raise or lower the front end smoothly.
-'''2)''' Of course, there is a civilized way of supporting the front: Use a front stand. But be careful when you do so. You '''have to''' either use a centerstand that is tall enough to keep the rear wheel off the ground or a rear/swingarm stand along with the front stand. Having the rear wheel on the ground and the front on a stand is just one small step more stable than the bike standing by itself on its own 2 wheels. Also, make sure you take the bike off the '''front''' stand first.
-You should really only use the centerstand/front stand combination for short-term projects (less than one day). Longer than that and the rear stand adds noticeably more stability to the whole setup.
-If you're buying a stand, the kind that supports the bike under the triple tree is more useful than the kind that goes under the forks:
-[[Image:Fork seals2-2.JPG|150px]]
-[[image:100_1393.jpg|150px]]
-'''3a)''' If you have access to an overhead beam, a ratcheting tie-down (with a large ratchet mechanism) can be strung between the top triple clamp and the beam (or two beams - see picture below). Run your strap under one side of the triple, around the rear of the steering stem, then under the triple on the other side and back up to the rafter. Make sure it pulls evenly on both sides of the triple.
+'''2a)''' If you have access to an overhead beam, a ratcheting tie-down (with a large ratchet mechanism) can be strung between the top triple clamp and the beam (or two beams - see picture below). Run your strap under one side of the triple, around the rear of the steering stem, then under the triple on the other side and back up to the rafter. Make sure it pulls evenly on both sides of the triple.
 [[image:yeild.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 75: / Line 135: @@
 If you use this method, be careful not to put pressure on any cables or wires, and ensure that the tie-down is pulling on the center of the bike. This is not the best way to do it, but can be useful when supporting under the bike isn't an option.
-'''3b)''' A better way to do this is to loop the tie-down through the frame. There are two reasons for this. 1. It's impossible to do it around the top triple without removing a bolt holding the ignition wires in place. 2. You can't remove the triples when you're holding the bike up by them.
+'''2b)''' A better way to do this is to loop the tie-down through the frame. There are two reasons for this. 1. It's impossible to do it around the top triple without removing a bolt holding the ignition wires in place. 2. You can't remove the triples when you're holding the bike up by them.
 You don't need to disassemble anything for this option; it doesn't pinch or touch anything important, and it's fast. It's as stable as it gets when suspending a bike like this and on the center stand (meaning the front end swings a bit). Make sure you loosen any bolts while the front end is still on the ground. If your bike doesn't have a centerstand, you have to also use a rear stand.
@@ Line 82: / Line 142: @@
 [[image:IMG_2354-2.JPG|90px]]
-'''4)''' If you just need to take the front wheel off, you can:
+'''3)''' If you just need to take the front wheel off, you can:
 * put the bike on the centerstand