EX250F key blanks: Difference between revisions
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Note: There are two Ilco lines: Ilco USA and Ilco Italy (also marked ORION). The Ilco Italy brand has a key marked KA14, but that key is not even remotely related to any Ninja 250 key. | Note: There are two Ilco lines: Ilco USA and Ilco Italy (also marked ORION). The Ilco Italy brand has a key marked KA14, but that key is not even remotely related to any Ninja 250 key. | ||
[[image:key blanks-1.jpg|150px]] | |||
The Silca KW12BP has a black plastic head like the OEM key but is 3mm longer at the top. Unless you held it against the OEM blank you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. The KW12BP can be cut the same as the Kawasaki blank, as it's functionally identical. The Silca blank is hard to find; you'll probably have to look for it online. | The Silca KW12BP has a black plastic head like the OEM key but is 3mm longer at the top. Unless you held it against the OEM blank you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. The KW12BP can be cut the same as the Kawasaki blank, as it's functionally identical. The Silca blank is hard to find; you'll probably have to look for it online. | ||
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Here's a closeup of the ridge in question: | Here's a closeup of the ridge in question: | ||
[[image:key blanks-2.jpg|150px]] | |||
And a lock cylinder (seat lock in this case): | And a lock cylinder (seat lock in this case): | ||
[[image:key blanks-3.jpg|150px]] | |||
You can see where the ridge interferes: | You can see where the ridge interferes: | ||
[[image:key blanks-4.jpg|150px]] | |||
The modification of the blank is to use a file or other tool to remove the ridge just at the end on each side. Only a tiny bit needs to be removed, not the entire ridge. | The modification of the blank is to use a file or other tool to remove the ridge just at the end on each side. Only a tiny bit needs to be removed, not the entire ridge. | ||
[[image:key blanks-5.jpg|150px]] | |||
==Key dimensions== | ==Key dimensions== | ||
Revision as of 02:23, 11 January 2011
If you need a new key for your bike, this article will explain your choices.
OEM Kawasaki key blanks
The "gold standard" blank is, of course, the OEM Kawasaki, number 27008-1173. Dealers typically ask well over $10 for these. You can find them cheaper at places like Bike Bandit and Ron Ayers, but with minimum shipping charges they're the same or more than a dealer. The OEM key is nickel-plated brass (as are all the other keys mentioned here) with a plastic-coated head.
Aftermarket key blanks
Aftermarket blanks are available in two different brands, Ilco and Silca. The official Ilco blank is the X103, which is also marked as KA14. Use this if at all possible.
Note: There are two Ilco lines: Ilco USA and Ilco Italy (also marked ORION). The Ilco Italy brand has a key marked KA14, but that key is not even remotely related to any Ninja 250 key.
The Silca KW12BP has a black plastic head like the OEM key but is 3mm longer at the top. Unless you held it against the OEM blank you wouldn't be able to tell the difference. The KW12BP can be cut the same as the Kawasaki blank, as it's functionally identical. The Silca blank is hard to find; you'll probably have to look for it online.
The Ilco USA X103/KA14 is slightly shorter than the OEM one and is all-metal, with a head profile significantly different in shape. The length reduction is in the head end of the key. The portion of the key shaft that inserts into the lock cylinder measures the same as the OEM blank. Cost on these varies quite a bit, depending on how friendly the locksmith is. Online quantity purchase price is typically around a buck or less.
Key blanks to avoid
One Ilco blank that some people have used is the X266, also marked KA16. This blank is not listed for the Ninja 250 but rather the Concours. This blank is also all-metal, but in profile it is identical to the OEM key. The problem with this key is that there is a small ridge on each edge that prevents the key from being fully inserted into the Ninja 250 lock cylinders. The amount of interference is fairly small (less than a millimeter) but that is enough to cause problems. Without a minor modification to the key, an X266/KA16 blank cut to fit the ignition/seat/helmet locks will not work in the fuel filler cap.
Here's a closeup of the ridge in question:
And a lock cylinder (seat lock in this case):
You can see where the ridge interferes:
The modification of the blank is to use a file or other tool to remove the ridge just at the end on each side. Only a tiny bit needs to be removed, not the entire ridge.
Key dimensions
The critical dimensions of all the aftermarket blanks are virtually identical to the OEM Kawasaki blank, with the exception of the ridges on the X266/KA16. Aside from the thickness and width dimensions of the portion of the shaft that inserts into the lock cylinder, the length from the tip of the key to the shoulder step, 20mm, is most important. The reason for this is that the ignition, helmet, and seat lock cylinders rely on the shoulder stop to determine insertion depth, whereas the gas cap has an internal stop such that only the end five of the six tumbler positions are used. If that 20mm length were to change, then a key cut for the other three lock cylinders would not work for the gas cap, and vice versa.
So, find yourself an Ilco X103 or a Silca KW12BP, get it cut by a professional locksmith, and you'll be happily locking and unlocking your bike for years to come.