Servicing the swingarm: Difference between revisions
No edit summary |
|||
| Line 7: | Line 7: | ||
*22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-ended wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-ended wrench (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier. | *22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-ended wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-ended wrench (brake torque link arm). A 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier. | ||
*Kerosene (or low flash point solvent) | *Kerosene (or low flash point solvent) and a kerosene-safe container | ||
*Plenty of clean, lint-free rags | *Plenty of clean, lint-free rags | ||
*[[Torque Values|Torque Values list]] | *[[Torque Values|Torque Values list]] | ||
*Molybdenum disulfide ("Moly") grease - any high-pressure bearing grease will do. However, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice). The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications, and reduces wear by plating the bearing needles. | |||
:This grease should be an excellent choice; it is a lithium soap and it contains molybdenum disulphide: | |||
[[Image:grease2.jpg|150px]] [[Image:grease.jpg|150px]] | |||
*O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but there's a bunch, and stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad. | *O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike. It is imperative these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but there's a bunch, and stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad. | ||
Make sure you use cheap labor as much as possible. Why should you get your hands any dirtier? They may even appreciate the bonding experience... in 15 or 20 years. | Make sure you use cheap labor as much as possible. Why should you get your hands any dirtier? They may even appreciate the bonding experience... in 15 or 20 years. | ||
[[Image:mywrencher.jpg| | [[Image:mywrencher.jpg|150px]] | ||
Note | Note: If cheap labour is unavailable, blue nitrile gloves make an excellent alternative. | ||
1) Remove mufflers using a 12mm (header pipe) and 14mm socket (footpeg bracket). You may need to "rotate" the muffler to get it off the header. While it is off, you can also clean the chain lube off the header and muffler. Note: The factory suggests you remove both mufflers. It is only necessary to remove the left one. | 1) Remove mufflers using a 12mm (header pipe) and 14mm socket (footpeg bracket). You may need to "rotate" the muffler to get it off the header. While it is off, you can also clean the chain lube off the header and muffler. Note: The factory suggests you remove both mufflers. It is only necessary to remove the left one. | ||
[[Image:withoutmuffler.jpg| | [[Image:withoutmuffler.jpg|150px]] [[Image:withoutmuffler2.jpg|150px]] | ||
2) Remove upper chain guard (warning: soft bolts) and [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|rear wheel]]. Make sure to tie your brake caliper out of the way and ensure there is no pressure on the hydraulic brake line. One way to keep it out of the way is to slide a long extension (or piece of threaded rod) through it and hang it through the passenger peg brackets. Make sure your chain will not lie in dirt (big piece of cardboard works well here). | 2) Remove upper chain guard (warning: soft bolts) and [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|rear wheel]]. Make sure to tie your brake caliper out of the way and ensure there is no pressure on the hydraulic brake line. One way to keep it out of the way is to slide a long extension (or piece of threaded rod) through it and hang it through the passenger peg brackets. Make sure your chain will not lie in dirt (big piece of cardboard works well here). | ||
[[Image:brakeremoved.jpg| | [[Image:brakeremoved.jpg|150px]] | ||
[[Image:wheelremoved.jpg|150px]] | |||
3) Remove nut from swingarm pivot (22mm), lower shock mount (19mm) and upper tie rod arms (19mm), but do not remove the bolts/pivot shaft. The easiest way to remove the 19mm nuts is to "lock" them in place with a 19mm open-ended wrench, and spin their corresponding bolt heads with a 17mm socket, extension, and breaker bar (or ratchet + piece of pipe). | 3) Remove nut from swingarm pivot (22mm), lower shock mount (19mm) and upper tie rod arms (19mm), but do not remove the bolts/pivot shaft. The easiest way to remove the 19mm nuts is to "lock" them in place with a 19mm open-ended wrench, and spin their corresponding bolt heads with a 17mm socket, extension, and breaker bar (or ratchet + piece of pipe). | ||
[[Image:swingarmclose.jpg| | [[Image:swingarmclose.jpg|150px]] [[Image:pivotnutremoved.jpg|150px]] | ||
4) Slide something under the swingarm to hold it up (like a milk crate) and remove the lower shock bolt and upper tie rod bolts. | 4) Slide something under the swingarm to hold it up (like a milk crate) and remove the lower shock bolt and upper tie rod bolts. | ||
| Line 45: | Line 43: | ||
Alternatively, you can support the swingarm with your hand while removing the pivot shaft. Push the shaft through from the left first, then run around the bike and grab the shaft and pull from the right. There is some stress on the bike at this point, so please don't put a finger inside the swingarm pivot. | Alternatively, you can support the swingarm with your hand while removing the pivot shaft. Push the shaft through from the left first, then run around the bike and grab the shaft and pull from the right. There is some stress on the bike at this point, so please don't put a finger inside the swingarm pivot. | ||
6) Untangle the swingarm from the chain and shock by pulling back on the swingarm until the bottom of the shock clears the | 6) Untangle the swingarm from the chain and shock by pulling back on the swingarm until the bottom of the shock clears the cross brace. Then, rotate the swingarm to the right to unhook the chain and remove it. Be sure your brake lines are disconnected from the swingarm. | ||
[[Image:swingarmoff.jpg| | [[Image:swingarmoff.jpg|150px]] | ||
Remove the rubber chain guard from the swingarm | Remove the rubber chain guard from the swingarm. Wipe off any crud from it and the swingarm. If you are planning to re-paint the swingarm when you see how horrible it looks, Duplicolor silver wheel paint, available at fine Wal-Mart stores everywhere, is a perfect match. | ||
7) Remove the plastic rings from either end of the pivot shaft and clean them. They pop out easily with your fingernails. | 7) Remove the plastic rings from either end of the pivot shaft and clean them. They pop out easily with your fingernails. | ||
| Line 57: | Line 55: | ||
9) Wash the pivot shaft, pivot shaft sleeve, and needle bearings with kerosene and dry thoroughly. | 9) Wash the pivot shaft, pivot shaft sleeve, and needle bearings with kerosene and dry thoroughly. | ||
[[Image:cleanparts.jpg| | [[Image:cleanparts.jpg|150px]] | ||
10) Try to wipe as much old grease out of the front of the swingarm as you can. | 10) Try to wipe as much old grease out of the front of the swingarm as you can. You can use a wooden dowel rod with a kerosene-soaked rag and push it through the front of the swingarm a few times to get most of the grease. Then use a kerosene-soaked rag on a finger to clean the bearings in place. Ideally, the bearings should be pressed out, cleaned, and pressed back in, but the risk of damaging the bearings is likely the greater of two evils. | ||
[[Image:dirtyneedlebearings.jpg| | [[Image:dirtyneedlebearings.jpg|150px]] [[Image:cleanishneedlebearings.jpg|150px]] | ||
11) After all parts are dry, inspect for wear or damage. Minor wear signs are normal, but discoloration of the shaft or bearings is not. This discoloration isn't a problem | 11) After all parts are dry, inspect for wear or damage. Minor wear signs are normal, but discoloration of the shaft or bearings is not. This discoloration isn't a problem - it's an indicator. You have too much heat because you have too little lube. | ||
[[Image:000_0334.jpg| | [[Image:000_0334.jpg|150px]] | ||
If you have rust, such as in these photos, you have a problem. For very light surface rust, or if you are really cheap and not particularly concerned with your safety, you can sand down the shaft and hope for the best. '''The real answer''' is to replace the rusty parts. You can probably find them on eBay, or in a motorcycle [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?|wrecking yard]]. The parts can also be purchased new from the usual sources. | If you have rust, such as in these photos, you have a problem. For very light surface rust, or if you are really cheap and not particularly concerned with your safety, you can sand down the shaft and hope for the best. '''The real answer''' is to replace the rusty parts. You can probably find them on eBay, or in a motorcycle [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?|wrecking yard]]. The parts can also be purchased new from the usual sources. | ||
[[Image:000_0333.jpg| | [[Image:000_0333.jpg|150px]] | ||
[[Image:000_0330.jpg|150px]] | |||
Note: The rusty parts shown above are from a bike with only 15,000 miles on it. The pivot shaft shown below was from a five year-old bike with only 5000 miles. | Note: The rusty parts shown above are from a bike with only 15,000 miles on it. The pivot shaft shown below was from a five year-old bike with only 5000 miles. | ||
| Line 75: | Line 74: | ||
[[Image:swarmpivot3.jpg|150px]] | [[Image:swarmpivot3.jpg|150px]] | ||
12) If bearings, sleeve or shaft need replacing, ''replace bearings and sleeve as a unit.'' | 12) If bearings, sleeve or shaft need replacing, ''replace the bearings and sleeve as a unit.'' | ||
13) If everything is okay, [[Greasing the axles & wheel bearings|pack the bearings]] with moly grease with your finger. Use lots of grease | 13) If everything is okay, [[Greasing the axles & wheel bearings|pack the bearings]] with moly grease with your finger. Use lots of grease; there is plenty of room inside the swingarm. Lightly grease the pivot sleeve and re-install through the bearings. Re-install the plastic rings after wiping any crud off of them. | ||
14) Reinstall the swingarm by supporting the swingarm with one hand and feeding the pivot shaft through from the right side of the bike. '''Be sure''' the rubber chain guard is on the swingarm before doing this. Also make sure the chain is installed. | 14) Reinstall the swingarm by supporting the swingarm with one hand and feeding the pivot shaft through from the right side of the bike. '''Be sure''' the rubber chain guard is on the swingarm before doing this. Also make sure the chain is installed. Those two things are easily forgotten and are a major time-suck to take apart again if you forget. Put the nut on the swingarm shaft a few turns, but do not tighten. | ||
15) Install the upper tie rod and lower shock bolts | 15) Install the upper tie rod and lower shock bolts. Put the nuts on them, but do not tighten. Be sure the bolts are installed in the same direction as they came off. There is a lip on the swingarm mounting point to keep the nut from turning on the upper tie rod bolt, which can't do its job if the nut is on the other side. This lip will not hold the bolt head, so you will know if you have the bolt in backwards. | ||
16) Tighten the pivot shaft nut to 65 ft-lbs/88 N-m. Tighten the lower shock bolt and tie rod bolts to 33 ft-lbs/44 N-m. | 16) Tighten the pivot shaft nut to 65 ft-lbs/88 N-m. Tighten the lower shock bolt and tie rod bolts to 33 ft-lbs/44 N-m. | ||
| Line 87: | Line 86: | ||
17) [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|Reinstall the rear wheel]], being sure to [[How do I adjust chain/rear wheel alignment?|align the sprockets]], [[How do I measure chain slack?|adjust the chain slack]] and [[Torque Values|torque all fasteners]] to the proper specs. You might as well [[How do I clean the drivechain?|clean]] and [[How often should I lube the chain; what should I use to do so?|lube]] the chain while you're there, too. | 17) [[Removing/replacing the rear wheel|Reinstall the rear wheel]], being sure to [[How do I adjust chain/rear wheel alignment?|align the sprockets]], [[How do I measure chain slack?|adjust the chain slack]] and [[Torque Values|torque all fasteners]] to the proper specs. You might as well [[How do I clean the drivechain?|clean]] and [[How often should I lube the chain; what should I use to do so?|lube]] the chain while you're there, too. | ||
18) Reinstall the mufflers | 18) Reinstall the mufflers. | ||
19) Test Ride with a smile of satisfaction | 19) Test Ride with a smile of satisfaction. | ||