Stainless steel brake lines upgrade: Difference between revisions
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:4) New brake pads (Well, while you're there...) | :4) New brake pads (Well, while you're there...) | ||
"Just the front?!?" you ask? Yes, although if you like matching sparkly bits, go whole hog and do the rear as well. Any tricked-out larger street bike has 'em, why shouldn't you? Most line manufacturers these days also have colored line covers to match your bike's color. Most of your braking power comes from the front anyway.... | "Just the front?!?" you ask? Yes, although if you like matching sparkly bits, go whole hog and do the rear as well. Any tricked-out larger street bike has 'em, why shouldn't you? Most line manufacturers these days also have colored line covers to match your bike's color. Most of your braking power comes from the front anyway.... And, think about how the extra stopping power out back will affect your riding. Most people don't need or want it on a 250. | ||
A generally ignored part of the service schedule is that OEM brake lines should be replaced every four years. So, if your bike is more than three years old, this may be part of your scheduled maintenance. The price is nearly the same, and with stainless you get a much better product. Board recommendation for life expectancy on stainless is 5-6 years. | |||
All the major manufacturers ([http://www.galferusa.com/MOTO.html Galfer], [http://www.spieglerusa.com/cfm/brakelines.cfm Spiegler], [http://www.goodridge.net/usa/motorcycle.htm Goodridge]) are equally good. You can also get ss lines made up from a reputable local hot rod/speed shop. Contact your local dealer, or use a search engine to find out who sells them online. There are other makers out there, too, so poke around. eBay has dealers who carry parts as well. | |||
One thing to make sure and look for is that the line has a plastic covering over the steel braid. Without this, you run the risk of lines cutting through fenders, radiators, or even tires. This is generally not a problem. You'll probably be trying to decide what color your covering will be; just make sure that the line comes with one before you order. | |||
[http://cyclebrakes.com/ Cycle Brakes] is a good place to start. They have a lot of info on their site, different colors to choose from, and they carry all sorts of brake-related stuff. | |||
All three of the top brands sell through dealers. These may be brick & mortar or online. Galfer and Spiegler have kits for the EX250; with Goodridge you'll have to use a universal line. This is generally not recommended for a novice. | |||
If color is important to you, take a look at the [http://www.spieglerusa.com/images/AllFittings-large.jpg Spiegler fittings page]. | If color is important to you, take a look at the [http://www.spieglerusa.com/images/AllFittings-large.jpg Spiegler fittings page]. | ||
Price is usually pretty cheap, somewhere in the US$50-60 range. Plus, you'll have the pleasure of knowing your braking systems (and hence, your safety) are up to snuff. Even better? You can easily do the upgrade yourself with simple hand tools. | |||
Why not? Be the first on your block! | |||
====Installation of stainless steel lines, by IanJ==== | ====Installation of stainless steel lines, by IanJ==== | ||
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The rear brake line installation was nearly identical, although I had refined the bleeding procedure enough that it went a lot faster. The rear line may have been easier to bleed as well, since the basically flat orientation of the line, and the raised caliper should mean that bubbles rise to the bleed valve more easily. To access the rear brake fluid reservoir, you'll need your screwdriver to get the right-hand side panel off. | The rear brake line installation was nearly identical, although I had refined the bleeding procedure enough that it went a lot faster. The rear line may have been easier to bleed as well, since the basically flat orientation of the line, and the raised caliper should mean that bubbles rise to the bleed valve more easily. To access the rear brake fluid reservoir, you'll need your screwdriver to get the right-hand side panel off. | ||
In all, the brake line installation took around 40 minutes to complete both front and rear. Trying to do the job without the vacuum pump might take a little longer or waste a little more brake fluid (note that once you've opened a bottle of brake fluid, you use it right then or toss it, so "wasting" brake fluid is kind of hard to do). A complete novice should not attempt this operation if they're at all uncomfortable about it -- not because it's hard, but because you're working with the brakes, which are one of the systems that will get you killed fastest if you mess it up. If you're not comfortable with the idea of doing this yourself, get a friend to help out. Even another novice is useful in having another pair of eyes to double-check your work, but a mechanically experienced friend is best. | In all, the brake line installation took around 40 minutes to complete both front and rear. Trying to do the job without the vacuum pump might take a little longer or waste a little more brake fluid (note that once you've opened a bottle of brake fluid, you use it right then or toss it, so "wasting" brake fluid is kind of hard to do). | ||
A complete novice should not attempt this operation if they're at all uncomfortable about it -- not because it's hard, but because you're working with the brakes, which are one of the systems that will get you killed fastest if you mess it up. If you're not comfortable with the idea of doing this yourself, get a friend to help out. Even another novice is useful in having another pair of eyes to double-check your work, but a mechanically experienced friend is best. | |||
If you don't have the more advanced tools I mention here (the torque wrench and the vacuum pump) I would definitely spend money on the torque wrench first. Buy the best one you can afford, as this is a tool that will be useful for years to come if you intend to do any amount of work on your bike. Definitely don't buy a bar-n-pointer type wrench unless that's really all you can afford. If you can scrape together $60, the clicker-type torque wrenches are much more accurate and repeatable. Sears, Home Depot, Lowes, etc. are good places to get torque wrenches. Vacuum pumps (the small, hand-operated variety) are available from automotive stores like Schucks, AutoZone, Pep Boys, NAPA, etc. I think mine cost $25-30, and that seems to be a typical price. So far, I've used my vacuum pump to bleed brakes and hold the vacuum petcock on the Ninja open, so it's not ultimately a widely useful tool like the torque wrench is. | |||
Notes on brake fluid: DOT3 and DOT4 brake fluid are hydrophilic, which means that they readily absorb moisture, which degrades their ability to work properly. DOT5 fluid must not be used in a DOT4 system -- the two types don't mix, and putting in the wrong type could destroy brake system components, leading to catastrophic failure. Containers of brake fluid should be kept closed at all times, unless you're actually pouring it out. This keeps out excess moisture, and also keeps the fluid clean. Grit or impurities in your braking system are a strict no-no, as they could gum up the fluid passages, leading to possible brake malfunction. Keep the reservoir covered unless you're actually pouring in fluid or rapidly removing it. | |||
Brake fluid is also a moderately effective paint stripper, so wipe up any spilled brake fluid as quickly as possible. It can destroy the paint on your bike, but it doesn't work immediately, so there's no reason to panic. | Brake fluid is also a moderately effective paint stripper, so wipe up any spilled brake fluid as quickly as possible. It can destroy the paint on your bike, but it doesn't work immediately, so there's no reason to panic. | ||