How to fine-tune your jetting: Difference between revisions
No edit summary |
No edit summary |
||
| Line 4: | Line 4: | ||
'''DO NOT''' begin tearing the bike apart until you have read this ENTIRE document. You need to understand the fine tuning process before you start pulling main jets out of a hat! | '''DO NOT''' begin tearing the bike apart until you have read this ENTIRE document. You need to understand the fine tuning process before you start pulling main jets out of a hat! | ||
Step 1: [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|Remove the carbs]] | '''Step 1''': [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|Remove the carbs]] | ||
Step 2: New main jets | '''Step 2''': New main jets | ||
Remove the float bowls (4 screws.) Unscrew the main jet: the main jet screws into a nut. Hold this with pliers and turn the jet out with a flathead screwdriver. The jet will be in there TIGHT. Make absolutely sure you are using a flat head that fits properly or you will strip the jet. | Remove the float bowls (4 screws.) Unscrew the main jet: the main jet screws into a nut. Hold this with pliers and turn the jet out with a flathead screwdriver. The jet will be in there TIGHT. Make absolutely sure you are using a flat head that fits properly or you will strip the jet. | ||
| Line 14: | Line 14: | ||
Reassemble. | Reassemble. | ||
Step 3: Raise needles | '''Step 3''': Raise needles | ||
Remove the black covers on the top of the carbs. The screws have different lengths, so keep track of which one goes where. The plastic vacuum pistons are held under pressure by a spring, so be careful when removing the top. | Remove the black covers on the top of the carbs. The screws have different lengths, so keep track of which one goes where. The plastic vacuum pistons are held under pressure by a spring, so be careful when removing the top. | ||
| Line 24: | Line 24: | ||
Reassemble. | Reassemble. | ||
Step 4: [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|Adjust mixture screws]] | Raising the needles can actually be done without removing the carbs from the bike. Pull the tank, without pulling the upper fairing. You'll need a good-condition #2 phillips screwdriver with a shaft about 10" long. A multi-bit screwdriver won't work because the shaft is too thick. Just slide the screwdriver through the brackets to pull the screws out, pop the cover off, pull the springs, and fish out the vacuum pistons. Make your adjustments and reassemble. Make sure to drop the needle straight down, so that it goes into the collar above the emulsion tube; you can easily see if it doesn't. Put the screws and brackets back on, and you're good to go. | ||
The big key to this is to not have sticky bolts... If they are stuck, you'll need to pull the carbs so you can put them in a bench vise and hit them with an impact driver. | |||
'''Step 4''': [[Removing idle mixture screw plugs|Adjust mixture screws]] | |||
Note: Turning the screws IN decreases the amount of gas at idle. Turning the screws OUT increases the amount of gas at idle. | Note: Turning the screws IN decreases the amount of gas at idle. Turning the screws OUT increases the amount of gas at idle. | ||
Step 5: [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|Attach carbs to bike]] | '''Step 5''': [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|Attach carbs to bike]] | ||
'''Conclusions''' | '''Conclusions''' | ||