Replacing the wheel bearings: Difference between revisions

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Here's what you should find when looking up the part #s for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:

Front

'''Front'''

*two #6202 - 15mm ID / 35mm OD

Rear

'''Rear'''

* one #6203 - 17mm ID / 40mm OD

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Wheel bearings are simple. You'll want two small sections of 2x4, or a milk crate (same stuff you'd use for [[Mounting & balancing tires yourself|changing tires]]) to hold the rotor off the ground. For removal, the Motion Pro [http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/bearing_remover_sets 8 Piece Metric Bearing Remover Set], or something similar, is the correct tool for the job. The short piece fits in the axle opening. The long piece has a wedge that fits in the slot of the short piece, which allows the whole thing to 'grab' the inner race. Then, as you beat on it with a hammer, it should work the whole bearing out evenly (it doesn't always, but it works better than anything else.) As usual with Motion Pro, Googling should yield a better price than the MP site.

Another alternative is a [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876 bearing puller]. This particular puller needs a flat, sturdy surface to push against, with two points on the opposite sides of the bearing, 180 degrees apart. As you will notice, there really aren't any on the wheels. So, lay two bars of scrap metal across the wheel, close to the bearing, to provide support.

If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can sometimes get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Some have had no success and ended up getting the Motion Pro tool. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").

@@ Line 24: / Line 24: @@
 Here's what you should find when looking up the part #s for your wheel bearings, along with the standard sizes for that bearing number:
-Front
+'''Front'''
 *two #6202 - 15mm ID / 35mm OD
-Rear
+'''Rear'''
 * one #6203 - 17mm ID / 40mm OD
@@ Line 45: / Line 45: @@
 Wheel bearings are simple. You'll want two small sections of 2x4, or a milk crate (same stuff you'd use for [[Mounting & balancing tires yourself|changing tires]]) to hold the rotor off the ground. For removal, the Motion Pro [http://www.motionpro.com/motorcycle/tools/bearing_remover_sets 8 Piece Metric Bearing Remover Set], or something similar, is the correct tool for the job. The short piece fits in the axle opening. The long piece has a wedge that fits in the slot of the short piece, which allows the whole thing to 'grab' the inner race. Then, as you beat on it with a hammer, it should work the whole bearing out evenly (it doesn't always, but it works better than anything else.) As usual with Motion Pro, Googling should yield a better price than the MP site.
+Another alternative is a [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=4876 bearing puller]. This particular puller needs a flat, sturdy surface to push against, with two points on the opposite sides of the bearing, 180 degrees apart. As you will notice, there really aren't any on the wheels. So, lay two bars of scrap metal across the wheel, close to the bearing, to provide support.
 If you don't want to spend the money on the tool set, you can sometimes get by with a drift (aka a punch), or a long 3/8 drive extension. Some have had success with a BFSD (large screwdriver). Some have had no success and ended up getting the Motion Pro tool. Since you're not trying to save the old ones, feel free to bash away at the inner race. The tube that runs through the wheel doesn't usually completely cover the inner race, so you can kind of get a purchase on it, beating the bearing out from the opposite side of the wheel. The down side is that you have to move around the race to get the bearing out evenly, and you're going to have to be careful, because the drift will probably slip off and bust your knuckles a few times (think "leather gloves").