Installing emulators and springs: Difference between revisions

Line 8:

[[image:18010132021.jpg|100px]]

As the spring rate was going to be upgraded, it was decided to get some better damping also. This came in the form of RaceTech [[Are Valve Emulators worthwhile?|gold valve emulators]] ~~They came from [http://www.ronayers.com/ Ron Ayers], based on price and service~~.

As the spring rate was going to be upgraded, it was decided to get some better damping also. This came in the form of RaceTech [[Are Valve Emulators worthwhile?|gold valve emulators]].

Here are the steps:

Step 1. Remove your lower and upper fairings.

Step 1. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|Remove] your lower and upper fairings.

Step 2. Remove cotter pin (if present, as it should be) and break loose the front axle nut with your breaker bar.

Step 2. Remove the cotter pin (if present, as it should be) and break loose the front axle nut with your breaker bar.

Step 3. Remove handlebars. Each bar is held by two hex bolts. It is not a good idea to let the handlebars dangle by the cabling, particularly in the case of the right handlebar and the brake line. There may be more elegant solutions, but just taping the left and right bars together with some masking tape over the instrument cluster works:

Step 3. Remove the handlebars. Each bar is held by two hex bolts. It is not a good idea to let the handlebars dangle by the cabling, particularly in the case of the right handlebar and the brake line. There may be more elegant solutions, but just taping the left and right bars together with some masking tape over the instrument cluster works:

[[image:18010131880.jpg|150px]]

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[[image:18010131893.jpg|150px]]

Step 4a: [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|Remove the fork caps]]. The fork caps are held in place by a small ring that sits in a groove. ~~These guys~~ are preloaded by the fork spring, and there is a lot of pressure there, so be careful! The fork seal article suggests a couple of alternative methods to remove these ~~guys~~ that may or may not work. Our author recommends a two-jaw puller. It is very easy and makes the work quick. You also have a controlled method for releasing the spring tension, which is probably the best reason. A 3-pack of pullers from Harbor Freight runs about $15. It is worth it.

Step 4a: [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|Remove the fork caps]]. The fork caps are held in place by a small ring that sits in a groove. The caps are preloaded by the fork spring, and there is a lot of pressure there, so be careful! The fork seal article suggests a couple of alternative methods to remove these that may or may not work. Our author recommends a two-jaw puller. It is very easy and makes the work quick. You also have a controlled method for releasing the spring tension, which is probably the best reason. A 3-pack of pullers from Harbor Freight runs about $15. It is worth it.

Step 4b: ~~So, what~~ you do is install the jaw puller and compress the spring enough to provide easy access to the ring. Then you use a $3.99 Chinese secret weapon:

Step 4b: What you do is install the jaw puller and compress the spring enough to provide easy access to the ring. Then you use a $3.99 Chinese secret weapon:

[[image:18010131949.jpg|150px]]

This makes light, less frustrating work. Maneuver one of the picks to sort of pry up the ring, then insert the other pick in order to leverage it out of there. The rings readily bend, so this is not too hard, though it may take a few minutes to master the technique.

This makes for light, less frustrating work. Maneuver one of the picks to sort of pry up the ring, then insert the other pick in order to leverage it out of there. The rings readily bend, so this is not too hard, though it may take a few minutes to master the technique.

[[image:18010131929-2.jpg|150px]]

[[image:18010131951.jpg|150px]]

Step 4c: ~~Now, once~~ that ring is out of there, there is nothing (other than the jaw puller) holding the COMPRESSED spring in ~~there~~. At this time, put a shop towel or something soft on your gas tank so that if the cap flies out ~~of there~~ it doesn't ding your tank.

Step 4c: Once that ring is out of there, there is nothing (other than the jaw puller) holding the COMPRESSED spring in. At this time, put a shop towel or something soft on your gas tank so that if the cap flies out it doesn't ding your tank.

Slowly, carefully, loosen the jaw puller and grab the cap before it ~~flies and hits your tank~~.

Slowly, carefully, loosen the jaw puller and grab the cap before it goes flying.

Repeat this for the other fork.

Step 5: Measure the fork height so you know what to set ~~the fork height~~ to when you reinstall. The spec is 12mm, and this bike was dead on. If your bike is set up differently, record the height so that you have an idea of what to set it to later. The picture is blurry, but you get the idea. The $10 Harbor Freight [http://www.physics.smu.edu/~scalise/apparatus/caliper/tutorial/ calipers] are useful for this kind of small measurement.

Step 5: Measure the fork height, so you know what to set it to when you reinstall. The spec is 12mm, and this bike was dead on. If your bike is set up differently, record the height so that you have an idea of what to set it to later. The picture is blurry, but you get the idea. The $10 Harbor Freight [http://www.physics.smu.edu/~scalise/apparatus/caliper/tutorial/ calipers] are useful for this kind of small measurement.

[[image:18010131999.jpg|150px]]

Step 6: Unbolt the brake caliper and support it somehow. A coat hanger or piece of string/rope works:

Step 6: Unbolt the brake caliper and support it somehow. A coat hanger or piece of string or rope works:

[[image:18010131941.jpg|150px]]

Step 7: ~~Next, remove~~ the front wheel (~~you~~ did remember to support the front end, right?). Don't lose the spacer, axle nut or axle nut washer!

Step 7: Remove the front wheel. (You did remember to support the front end, right?) Don't lose the spacer, axle nut or axle nut washer.

Remove the 4 bolts holding the front fender.

Remove the 4 bolts holding on the front fender.

Step 8: Now loosen the pinch bolts that clamp the forks to the triple tree. Hold the fork while you loosen the upper (12mm) and lower (14mm) bolts, in order to prevent the fork from violently falling to the ground. Slide it out gently.

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You can remove the stock spacer, washer, and fork spring at this point. Some fork oil will come out, so be prepared with a shop towel.

Step 9: Drain the old fork oil into a suitable container. Pump the fork to get most of it.

Step 9: Drain the old fork oil into a suitable container. Pump the fork to get most of it out.

Step 10: Clean the inside of the forks with brake or parts cleaner. Pour/spray some in and pump the fork, then drain. When it comes out clean, that's good enough.

Step 10: Clean the inside of the forks with brake or parts cleaner. Pour or spray some in and pump the fork, then drain. When it comes out clean, that's good enough.

Step 11: More disassembly. With the somewhat cleaned forks off the bike, you have to unbolt the damper rod from the fork in order to remove it. This requires a tool that most of us don't have, but (surprise surprise) Harbor Freight does for $12.99. It's a long hex key:

Line 67:

[[image:18010131914.jpg|150px]]

Some people talk about removing the damper rod with the forks on the bike. Our guy found that too unstable and felt that holding the fork in a vice was much easier and less frustrating. So, clamp it in a vice (clamp the flat-edged area that mates to the wheel) and use your 6mm hex bit socket to loosen it. A trusty Craftsman breaker bar with a not-so-small amount of force broke it loose. It does take quite a bit of effort, and the long hex key may flex, but you should be able to break it free with enough effort. FYI: If you don't have a breaker bar, you are INSANE! There are untold times when this is the best tool to use. Thread locker was on the damper rod, which probably explains the difficulty. An estimate of the force necessary to get it loose is about 60-70 lb-ft of torque.

[[How do I replace the fork seals?|Some people]] talk about removing the damper rod with the forks on the bike. Our guy found that too unstable and felt that holding the fork in a vice was much easier and less frustrating. So, clamp it in a vice (clamp only the flat-edged area that mates to the wheel) and use your 6mm hex bit socket to loosen it. A trusty Craftsman breaker bar with a not-so-small amount of force broke it loose. It does take quite a bit of effort, and the long hex key may flex, but you should be able to break it free with enough effort. FYI: If you don't have a breaker bar, you are INSANE! There are untold times when this is the best tool to use. Thread locker was on the damper rod, which probably explains the difficulty. An estimate of the force necessary to get it loose is about 60-70 lb-ft of torque.

~~Once~~ this ~~guy is out~~, the damper rod and top-out spring will be released and you can remove them.

With this done, the damper rod and top-out spring will be released and you can remove them.

Aside A: Gold valve emulators! These pictures give you an idea of how the emulator sits atop the damper rod.

Line 76:

[[image:18010132096.jpg|150px]]

We are now ready to start following the directions that are supplied with the ~~GVE's~~. The summary is:

We are now ready to start following the directions that are supplied with the GVEs. The summary is:

(a) drill out the old compression damping hole to 5/16" and add four more 5/16" holes to de-restrict the damping.

Line 82:

(b) measure out new spacers

(c) set fork oil level

(c) set the fork oil level

(d) button up the fork

Line 113:

Step 15: Clean up the modified damper rods. There will be lots of metal shavings. Spray brake cleaner in and out to clean things up.

~~'''~~From here on, try to be as clean as possible. Don't let foreign objects/debris fall into your forks.~~'''~~

From here on, try to be as clean as possible. Don't let foreign objects or debris fall into your forks.

Step 16: ~~Now, put~~ the damper rod and the top-out spring back into the fork tube. Install the fork spring to press the damper rod to the end and hold it in place. Then screw in the damper rod bolt ~~that we earlier removed~~. Torque this to 14.5 lb-ft ~~(according to manual):~~

Step 16: Put the damper rod and the top-out spring back into the fork tube. Install the fork spring to press the damper rod to the end and hold it in place. Then screw in the damper rod bolt. Torque this to 14.5 lb-ft.

[[image:18010132132.jpg|150px]]

@@ Line 8: / Line 8: @@
 [[image:18010132021.jpg|100px]]
-As the spring rate was going to be upgraded, it was decided to get some better damping also. This came in the form of RaceTech [[Are Valve Emulators worthwhile?|gold valve emulators]] They came from [http://www.ronayers.com/ Ron Ayers], based on price and service.
+As the spring rate was going to be upgraded, it was decided to get some better damping also. This came in the form of RaceTech [[Are Valve Emulators worthwhile?|gold valve emulators]].
 Here are the steps:
-Step 1. Remove your lower and upper fairings.
+Step 1. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|Remove] your lower and upper fairings.
-Step 2. Remove cotter pin (if present, as it should be) and break loose the front axle nut with your breaker bar.
+Step 2. Remove the cotter pin (if present, as it should be) and break loose the front axle nut with your breaker bar.
-Step 3. Remove handlebars. Each bar is held by two hex bolts. It is not a good idea to let the handlebars dangle by the cabling, particularly in the case of the right handlebar and the brake line. There may be more elegant solutions, but just taping the left and right bars together with some masking tape over the instrument cluster works:
+Step 3. Remove the handlebars. Each bar is held by two hex bolts. It is not a good idea to let the handlebars dangle by the cabling, particularly in the case of the right handlebar and the brake line. There may be more elegant solutions, but just taping the left and right bars together with some masking tape over the instrument cluster works:
 [[image:18010131880.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 25: / Line 25: @@
 [[image:18010131893.jpg|150px]]
-Step 4a: [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|Remove the fork caps]]. The fork caps are held in place by a small ring that sits in a groove. These guys are preloaded by the fork spring, and there is a lot of pressure there, so be careful! The fork seal article suggests a couple of alternative methods to remove these guys that may or may not work. Our author recommends a two-jaw puller. It is very easy and makes the work quick. You also have a controlled method for releasing the spring tension, which is probably the best reason. A 3-pack of pullers from Harbor Freight runs about $15. It is worth it.
+Step 4a: [[How do I remove the fork caps/pistons?|Remove the fork caps]]. The fork caps are held in place by a small ring that sits in a groove. The caps are preloaded by the fork spring, and there is a lot of pressure there, so be careful! The fork seal article suggests a couple of alternative methods to remove these that may or may not work. Our author recommends a two-jaw puller. It is very easy and makes the work quick. You also have a controlled method for releasing the spring tension, which is probably the best reason. A 3-pack of pullers from Harbor Freight runs about $15. It is worth it.
-Step 4b: So, what you do is install the jaw puller and compress the spring enough to provide easy access to the ring. Then you use a $3.99 Chinese secret weapon:
+Step 4b: What you do is install the jaw puller and compress the spring enough to provide easy access to the ring. Then you use a $3.99 Chinese secret weapon:
 [[image:18010131949.jpg|150px]]
-This makes light, less frustrating work. Maneuver one of the picks to sort of pry up the ring, then insert the other pick in order to leverage it out of there. The rings readily bend, so this is not too hard, though it may take a few minutes to master the technique.
+This makes for light, less frustrating work. Maneuver one of the picks to sort of pry up the ring, then insert the other pick in order to leverage it out of there. The rings readily bend, so this is not too hard, though it may take a few minutes to master the technique.
 [[image:18010131929-2.jpg|150px]]
 [[image:18010131951.jpg|150px]]
-Step 4c: Now, once that ring is out of there, there is nothing (other than the jaw puller) holding the COMPRESSED spring in there. At this time, put a shop towel or something soft on your gas tank so that if the cap flies out of there it doesn't ding your tank.
+Step 4c: Once that ring is out of there, there is nothing (other than the jaw puller) holding the COMPRESSED spring in. At this time, put a shop towel or something soft on your gas tank so that if the cap flies out it doesn't ding your tank.
-Slowly, carefully, loosen the jaw puller and grab the cap before it flies and hits your tank.
+Slowly, carefully, loosen the jaw puller and grab the cap before it goes flying.
 Repeat this for the other fork.
-Step 5: Measure the fork height so you know what to set the fork height to when you reinstall. The spec is 12mm, and this bike was dead on. If your bike is set up differently, record the height so that you have an idea of what to set it to later. The picture is blurry, but you get the idea. The $10 Harbor Freight [http://www.physics.smu.edu/~scalise/apparatus/caliper/tutorial/ calipers] are useful for this kind of small measurement.
+Step 5: Measure the fork height, so you know what to set it to when you reinstall. The spec is 12mm, and this bike was dead on. If your bike is set up differently, record the height so that you have an idea of what to set it to later. The picture is blurry, but you get the idea. The $10 Harbor Freight [http://www.physics.smu.edu/~scalise/apparatus/caliper/tutorial/ calipers] are useful for this kind of small measurement.
 [[image:18010131999.jpg|150px]]
-Step 6: Unbolt the brake caliper and support it somehow. A coat hanger or piece of string/rope works:
+Step 6: Unbolt the brake caliper and support it somehow. A coat hanger or piece of string or rope works:
 [[image:18010131941.jpg|150px]]
-Step 7: Next, remove the front wheel (you did remember to support the front end, right?). Don't lose the spacer, axle nut or axle nut washer!
+Step 7: Remove the front wheel. (You did remember to support the front end, right?) Don't lose the spacer, axle nut or axle nut washer.
-Remove the 4 bolts holding the front fender.
+Remove the 4 bolts holding on the front fender.
 Step 8: Now loosen the pinch bolts that clamp the forks to the triple tree. Hold the fork while you loosen the upper (12mm) and lower (14mm) bolts, in order to prevent the fork from violently falling to the ground. Slide it out gently.
@@ Line 58: / Line 58: @@
 You can remove the stock spacer, washer, and fork spring at this point. Some fork oil will come out, so be prepared with a shop towel.
-Step 9: Drain the old fork oil into a suitable container. Pump the fork to get most of it.
+Step 9: Drain the old fork oil into a suitable container. Pump the fork to get most of it out.
-Step 10: Clean the inside of the forks with brake or parts cleaner. Pour/spray some in and pump the fork, then drain. When it comes out clean, that's good enough.
+Step 10: Clean the inside of the forks with brake or parts cleaner. Pour or spray some in and pump the fork, then drain. When it comes out clean, that's good enough.
 Step 11: More disassembly. With the somewhat cleaned forks off the bike, you have to unbolt the damper rod from the fork in order to remove it. This requires a tool that most of us don't have, but (surprise surprise) Harbor Freight does for $12.99. It's a long hex key:
@@ Line 67: / Line 67: @@
 [[image:18010131914.jpg|150px]]
-Some people talk about removing the damper rod with the forks on the bike. Our guy found that too unstable and felt that holding the fork in a vice was much easier and less frustrating. So, clamp it in a vice (clamp the flat-edged area that mates to the wheel) and use your 6mm hex bit socket to loosen it. A trusty Craftsman breaker bar with a not-so-small amount of force broke it loose. It does take quite a bit of effort, and the long hex key may flex, but you should be able to break it free with enough effort. FYI: If you don't have a breaker bar, you are INSANE! There are untold times when this is the best tool to use. Thread locker was on the damper rod, which probably explains the difficulty. An estimate of the force necessary to get it loose is about 60-70 lb-ft of torque.
+[[How do I replace the fork seals?|Some people]] talk about removing the damper rod with the forks on the bike. Our guy found that too unstable and felt that holding the fork in a vice was much easier and less frustrating. So, clamp it in a vice (clamp only the flat-edged area that mates to the wheel) and use your 6mm hex bit socket to loosen it. A trusty Craftsman breaker bar with a not-so-small amount of force broke it loose. It does take quite a bit of effort, and the long hex key may flex, but you should be able to break it free with enough effort. FYI: If you don't have a breaker bar, you are INSANE! There are untold times when this is the best tool to use. Thread locker was on the damper rod, which probably explains the difficulty. An estimate of the force necessary to get it loose is about 60-70 lb-ft of torque.
-Once this guy is out, the damper rod and top-out spring will be released and you can remove them.
+With this done, the damper rod and top-out spring will be released and you can remove them.
 Aside A: Gold valve emulators! These pictures give you an idea of how the emulator sits atop the damper rod.
@@ Line 76: / Line 76: @@
 [[image:18010132096.jpg|150px]]
-We are now ready to start following the directions that are supplied with the GVE's. The summary is:
+We are now ready to start following the directions that are supplied with the GVEs. The summary is:
 (a) drill out the old compression damping hole to 5/16" and add four more 5/16" holes to de-restrict the damping.
@@ Line 82: / Line 82: @@
 (b) measure out new spacers
-(c) set fork oil level
+(c) set the fork oil level
 (d) button up the fork
@@ Line 113: / Line 113: @@
 Step 15: Clean up the modified damper rods. There will be lots of metal shavings. Spray brake cleaner in and out to clean things up.
-'''From here on, try to be as clean as possible. Don't let foreign objects/debris fall into your forks.'''
+From here on, try to be as clean as possible. Don't let foreign objects or debris fall into your forks.
-Step 16: Now, put the damper rod and the top-out spring back into the fork tube. Install the fork spring to press the damper rod to the end and hold it in place. Then screw in the damper rod bolt that we earlier removed. Torque this to 14.5 lb-ft (according to manual):
+Step 16: Put the damper rod and the top-out spring back into the fork tube. Install the fork spring to press the damper rod to the end and hold it in place. Then screw in the damper rod bolt. Torque this to 14.5 lb-ft.
 [[image:18010132132.jpg|150px]]