Hints & Tips: Valve Adjustment: Difference between revisions

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*If you want to use a special tool, get the Kawasaki one. Other sets, specifically the Motion Pro one that's designed for use on multiple kinds of bikes, won't fit.

*If you want to try the adjustment without the tool, get a 1/4" drive, 9mm, 6-point, deep well socket. Use it to make the actual adjustment, without a ratchet, but with an eyeglass-type screwdriver through the middle. That way you can turn the nut and use the screwdriver to hold the screw. At the beginning and end, when you're just breaking the nut loose or torquing it back down to spec, you can use your socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet. You might twist the screw a little, but ~~at the beginning~~ it doesn't matter ~~at all~~, and at the end you should have enough leeway that the gap is still in spec. Double check afterwards though, ~~just~~ to make sure.

*If you want to try the adjustment without the tool, get a 1/4" drive, 9mm, 6-point, deep well socket. Use it to make the actual adjustment, without a ratchet but with an eyeglass-type screwdriver through the middle. That way you can turn the nut and use the screwdriver to hold the screw. At the beginning and end, when you're just breaking the nut loose or torquing it back down to spec, you can use your socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet. You might twist the screw a little, but when you're loosening it doesn't matter, and at the end you should have enough leeway that the gap is still in spec. Double check afterwards, though, to make sure.

==Feeler gauges==

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 *If you want to use a special tool, get the Kawasaki one. Other sets, specifically the Motion Pro one that's designed for use on multiple kinds of bikes, won't fit.
-*If you want to try the adjustment without the tool, get a 1/4" drive, 9mm, 6-point, deep well socket. Use it to make the actual adjustment, without a ratchet, but with an eyeglass-type screwdriver through the middle. That way you can turn the nut and use the screwdriver to hold the screw. At the beginning and end, when you're just breaking the nut loose or torquing it back down to spec, you can use your socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet. You might twist the screw a little, but at the beginning it doesn't matter at all, and at the end you should have enough leeway that the gap is still in spec. Double check afterwards though, just to make sure.
+*If you want to try the adjustment without the tool, get a 1/4" drive, 9mm, 6-point, deep well socket. Use it to make the actual adjustment, without a ratchet but with an eyeglass-type screwdriver through the middle. That way you can turn the nut and use the screwdriver to hold the screw. At the beginning and end, when you're just breaking the nut loose or torquing it back down to spec, you can use your socket with a 1/4" drive ratchet. You might twist the screw a little, but when you're loosening it doesn't matter, and at the end you should have enough leeway that the gap is still in spec. Double check afterwards, though, to make sure.
 ==Feeler gauges==