Steering head bearing replacement: Difference between revisions

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If you're using OEM bearings, torque the stem nut once to 14 ft-lbs to seat the bearings, then back it off so there is no preload.

Now you have to adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser.

Now you have to adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser. Torque the stem head bolt to 35 ft-lbs.

Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]]~~. Torque the stem head bolt to 35 ft-lbs~~. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.

Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]]. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.

Go for a very quick test ride, then check the torque on everything again. Recheck the stem head bolt torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.

@@ Line 159: / Line 159: @@
 If you're using OEM bearings, torque the stem nut once to 14 ft-lbs to seat the bearings, then back it off so there is no preload.
-Now you have to adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser.
+Now you have to adjust the tightness of the stem nut. Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. You want it tight enough so the bars turn freely lock-to-lock with just a push of your hand (front end is still in the air). No tighter, no looser. Torque the stem head bolt to 35 ft-lbs.
-Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]]. Torque the stem head bolt to 35 ft-lbs. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.
+Reassemble the front end, putting everything back on that you took off. Tighten up the fender, but leave the other nuts loose. [[I need to realign my forks and front wheel|Align the forks]], then tighten everything [[Torque Values|to spec]]. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.
 Go for a very quick test ride, then check the torque on everything again. Recheck the stem head bolt torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.