Cam chain tensioner removal: Difference between revisions
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If you do remove it, inspect the tension rod for damage. If there are signs of scoring, it can be sanded smooth. However, if the rod or bearing are not in good shape, your best bet is to replace the entire assembly. | If you do remove it, inspect the tension rod for damage. If there are signs of scoring, it can be sanded smooth. However, if the rod or bearing are not in good shape, your best bet is to replace the entire assembly. | ||
==Tensioner removal== | ==Tensioner removal== | ||
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*The stiff spring in the push rod should now be firmly against the rear cam chain guide. | *The stiff spring in the push rod should now be firmly against the rear cam chain guide. | ||
Sometimes, even though you put it back together right, it may take more than one try to get it to "set" properly. If you install it and it still rattles, pull it back out and try installing it again. Sometimes they like to be loved "just so". | Sometimes, even though you put it back together right, it may take more than one try to get it to "set" properly. If you install it and it still rattles, pull it back out and try installing it again. Sometimes they like to be loved "just so". To help get it right the first time, make sure the shorter spring (the one that keeps tension on the bearing) stays lined up as close to perfect as possible. If not, it could allow the bearing to cock sideways, which jams up the rod nice and tight. This may be the cause behind sticking rods on reassembly. | ||
====Lubrication (optional)==== | |||
The service manual does not mention a need for oil or grease upon reassembly. This has been a subject of discussion on the forum. Members have done both, and both have worked. | |||
*Since the bearings only move in one direction and don't turn like normal ones, some experienced people have said that not lubing them will help hold the tension rod in place better. | |||
*However, [https://www.ninja250.org/AJinNoHills AJ] happened to have two tensioners lying around and tried one "dry" and one covered in moly grease. Both worked fine, in that neither would allow the rod to go back into the tensioner body when the bearing was fully seated. But the one that had grease pulled out smoother than the unlubed one. Since the bearings are not under any significant pressure when the rod is coming out, the lube might be helpful so that it comes out smoothly. | |||
* There's no consensus. You decide. | |||
* If you decide to search the forums for this issue, CCT is the usual abbreviation for the cam chain tensioner. | |||
==More theory== | ==More theory== | ||