Oil Change Procedure

What is the oil change procedure?

Warm up the engine. Turn off the engine and let it sit for a few minutes; place the bike on centerstand. Removing the lower fairing is optional; some people prefer to do it because it's quick, gives you a bit more room in which to work, and minimizes mess; others think it's not worth the effort, so it's up to you; it's held on by 7 bolts. Remove the drain plug bolt on the bottom of the engine over a 3+ qt container (don't burn yourself). Removing the oil filler cap will help the oil drain faster. Let the oil drain for 15-20 minutes, then replace the bolt, using a new drain plug gasket, #92065. (Many people don't replace these every time, but they're cheap. Stock up.) Tighten to 14.5 lb/fts; don't overtighten it or you risk stripping the threads out of the engine case. This is difficult to fix. Remove the oil filter bolt and filter retainer, just in front of the drain bolt. More oil and a dirty filter element will come out. Be sure to keep all the springs/grommets in order.

Place the new filter (STP SMO-12; see oil filter page for options) on the retainer, and replace the assembly, again torquing the bolt to 14.5 ft/lbs. Open the filler cap on the right side of engine if you haven't already. Fill w/ 1.5 qts of your favorite oil. Wait a minute, then add a very small amount of oil at a time until oil is halfway up the level-check window. Replace the filler cap. Start up the bike and let it run for a minute, then shut off the engine and wait a few minutes before checking the window again. Put another few ounces of oil in. Repeat until oil level is consistently in the center of the view window. Centerline in the window while the bike is on centerstand is the same as full with both wheels on the ground. Do not overfill (you could blow a gasket).

Here is a diagram of the filter assembly.

Note on the O-rings: Your new filter will usually (not always) come with two new O-rings. It's fairly obvious where the larger one (#671 in diagram above) goes, inside the filter assembly cap. The small one (#670) is supposed to go on the bolt that holds the whole assembly together, but if you leave the bolt attached to the cap (#14025) there's no need to change this O-ring. Hang on to it, though, on the very off chance that the old one starts leaking. Most club members rarely change it and never have any problems.

Often forgotten: Checking the oil screen

You should pull the oil screen, which is under the smaller round cover just behind the oil filter on the bottom of the motor. Once you take the 5 bolts and the cover off, the screen is held in by the rubber bushing around the edges - you can gently pull it out with your finger. Oil flows through it from the top, so you MUST remove the screen to clean the top side.

It's not completely necessary to pull the screen, but you'd be surprised how many big chunks of stuff are in there. On Duke's Rally bike there was some trash in the engine before it was rebuilt. So, to be sure he got it all out, the screen was checked at every oil change after the rebuild. There was less trash in it with each oil change.. If it hadn't been cleaned, the screen would probably be 60-80% clogged. At the 20k oil change there were only a couple small pieces in the screen, so it probably won't need to be checked again for a while.

In a new motor there will likely be less trash floating around, so it's recommended to check the screen at the second or third oil change, then every couple oil changes after that, until there's no new trash in the screen.

As far as actual cleaning of the screen goes, you can pretty much just wipe the screen clean with a rag. If you do need to spray it, WD-40 works fine.