Installing AsianCycle flush-mounts: Difference between revisions

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===Part 2: Preparation of the fairing===

If you are familiar with these flushmounts, you already know that the bulb socket is tilted in a manner that requires a small section of the fairing to be cut away. There are rubber bases ~~provided with the signals~~ that go between the fairing and the flushmount. These provide nice templates for the section that will need to be removed. Please note that the baseplate design has changed since these photos were taken. The newer ones look like this, and involve a simple circular cut of your fairing.

If you are familiar with these flushmounts, you already know that the bulb socket is tilted in a manner that requires a small section of the fairing to be cut away. There are rubber bases that go between the fairing and the flushmount provided with the signals. These provide nice templates for the section that will need to be removed. Please note that the baseplate design has changed since these photos were taken. The newer ones look like this, and involve a simple circular cut of your fairing.

[[Image:baseplate.jpeg|170px]]

Line 75:

Here is a picture that shows the scribed lines. If you're using a hacksaw blade or something else that won't let you cut curved holes, the easiest way to do this is to just follow the square pattern on the base plate. One of the goals of this particular job was to take out as little material as possible. This is personal preference and isn't strictly necessary.

If you have the tools and wish to avoid removing extra material from your fairing, ~~remember~~ that you don't HAVE to cut all the way back to the hole at the back of the cut. You can stop just short of it by scribing an arc with a quarter or a washer, making a circular cut that will stop just short of the OEM hole that's in your fairing. Note that using this method may require some additional cutting, sanding, or filing.

If you have the tools and wish to avoid removing extra material from your fairing, note that you don't HAVE to cut all the way back to the hole at the back of the cut. You can stop just short of it by scribing an arc with a quarter or a washer, making a circular cut that will stop just short of the OEM hole that's in your fairing. Note that using this method may require some additional cutting, sanding, or filing.

[[Image:IMG_0698.jpg|170px]]

Here is an external picture of the finished alteration of the main fairing. If the fit is just a bit tight, use small sanding drums, your cutoff wheel, or a file to make it slightly bigger, until you're satisfied with the fit. Yellow paper is used here to make the cutout area more visible ~~in this photo~~.

Here is an external picture of the finished alteration of the main fairing. If the fit is just a bit tight, use small sanding drums, your cutoff wheel, or a file to make it slightly bigger, until you're satisfied with the fit. Yellow paper is used here to make the cutout area more visible.

[[Image:~~IMG_0703~~.jpg|170px]]

[[Image:IMG_0701.jpg|170px]]

Internal picture of the same. Notice that a small part of the inside of the circular section was taken out to allow for a proper fit. The flushmounts can be installed and removed without feeling that you're putting a strain on anything, but the fit is still nice and snug.

[[Image:~~IMG_0701~~.jpg|170px]]

[[Image:IMG_0703.jpg|170px]]

Place the rubber baseplate and the flushmount unit onto the main fairing. Use the provided fasteners to attach the flushmount. Repeat for the other side. This can be done with the fairing on the body, but it is easier to do with the fairing removed. Remount the fairing on the motorcycle. Finally, attach the signal leads the same as stock.

[[Image:flushmount.jpg|170px]]

@@ Line 65: / Line 65: @@
 ===Part 2: Preparation of the fairing===
-If you are familiar with these flushmounts, you already know that the bulb socket is tilted in a manner that requires a small section of the fairing to be cut away. There are rubber bases provided with the signals that go between the fairing and the flushmount. These provide nice templates for the section that will need to be removed. Please note that the baseplate design has changed since these photos were taken. The newer ones look like this, and involve a simple circular cut of your fairing.
+If you are familiar with these flushmounts, you already know that the bulb socket is tilted in a manner that requires a small section of the fairing to be cut away. There are rubber bases that go between the fairing and the flushmount provided with the signals. These provide nice templates for the section that will need to be removed. Please note that the baseplate design has changed since these photos were taken. The newer ones look like this, and involve a simple circular cut of your fairing.
 [[Image:baseplate.jpeg|170px]]
@@ Line 75: / Line 75: @@
 Here is a picture that shows the scribed lines. If you're using a hacksaw blade or something else that won't let you cut curved holes, the easiest way to do this is to just follow the square pattern on the base plate. One of the goals of this particular job was to take out as little material as possible. This is personal preference and isn't strictly necessary.
-If you have the tools and wish to avoid removing extra material from your fairing, remember that you don't HAVE to cut all the way back to the hole at the back of the cut. You can stop just short of it by scribing an arc with a quarter or a washer, making a circular cut that will stop just short of the OEM hole that's in your fairing. Note that using this method may require some additional cutting, sanding, or filing.
+If you have the tools and wish to avoid removing extra material from your fairing, note that you don't HAVE to cut all the way back to the hole at the back of the cut. You can stop just short of it by scribing an arc with a quarter or a washer, making a circular cut that will stop just short of the OEM hole that's in your fairing. Note that using this method may require some additional cutting, sanding, or filing.
 [[Image:IMG_0698.jpg|170px]]
-Here is an external picture of the finished alteration of the main fairing. If the fit is just a bit tight, use small sanding drums, your cutoff wheel, or a file to make it slightly bigger, until you're satisfied with the fit. Yellow paper is used here to make the cutout area more visible in this photo.
+Here is an external picture of the finished alteration of the main fairing. If the fit is just a bit tight, use small sanding drums, your cutoff wheel, or a file to make it slightly bigger, until you're satisfied with the fit. Yellow paper is used here to make the cutout area more visible.
-[[Image:IMG_0703.jpg|170px]]
+[[Image:IMG_0701.jpg|170px]]
 Internal picture of the same. Notice that a small part of the inside of the circular section was taken out to allow for a proper fit. The flushmounts can be installed and removed without feeling that you're putting a strain on anything, but the fit is still nice and snug.
-[[Image:IMG_0701.jpg|170px]]
+[[Image:IMG_0703.jpg|170px]]
 Place the rubber baseplate and the flushmount unit onto the main fairing. Use the provided fasteners to attach the flushmount. Repeat for the other side. This can be done with the fairing on the body, but it is easier to do with the fairing removed. Remount the fairing on the motorcycle. Finally, attach the signal leads the same as stock.
 [[Image:flushmount.jpg|170px]]