A beginner's guide to maintenance tools: Difference between revisions
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[[Category:New Riders|Engine|Intake]] | [[Category:New Riders|Engine|Intake]] | ||
'''So you're new to riding | '''So you're new to riding and wanna save money by doing your own maintenance?''' | ||
This is the ULTRA beginners guide... for those who haven't Any experience, much less tools. For those folks, the prospect is often a daunting one when it comes to doing any sort of work on their precious new bikes. You're worried about screwing something up, voiding the warranty and just generally getting in over your head. Well, not to worry. If you can read and use your hands, then you have what it takes to do anything your bike(s) might need. | This is the ULTRA beginners guide... for those who haven't Any experience, much less tools. For those folks, the prospect is often a daunting one when it comes to doing any sort of work on their precious new bikes. You're worried about screwing something up, voiding the warranty and just generally getting in over your head. Well, not to worry. If you can read and use your hands, then you have what it takes to do anything your bike(s) might need. | ||
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'''First things first''' | '''First things first''' | ||
Just like gear is needed before you start riding, information is needed before you start wrenching. This forum, its associated FAQ and archive search are an Amazing free resource. Chances are that no matter what you plan on doing, a handful of members have already done the same job. And it's even fairly likely that there's a pictorial write-up floating about with step-by-step instructions. But that doesn't mean you should skip out on buying the factory service manuals ~ there's a LOT of detailed information in those 2 manuals that's not found anywhere else. And yes, that includes the cheap aftermarket knock-offs... There is sometimes information in those that is just blatantly wrong. | Just like gear is needed before you start riding, information is needed before you start wrenching. This forum, its associated FAQ and archive search are an Amazing free resource. Chances are that no matter what you plan on doing, a handful of members have already done the same job. And it's even fairly likely that there's a pictorial write-up floating about with step-by-step instructions. But that doesn't mean you should skip out on buying the [[Service Manual|factory service manuals]] ~ there's a LOT of detailed information in those 2 manuals that's not found anywhere else. And yes, that includes the cheap aftermarket knock-offs... There is sometimes information in those that is just blatantly wrong. | ||
99924-1066-01 Service Manual EX250E 36.95<br> | 99924-1066-01 Service Manual EX250E 36.95<br> | ||
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The first maintenance item most riders are likely to perform would be changing the oil. Not a very daunting task, you've heard it said. Maybe you've seen it done with family cars. There are only 2 bolts, and they're the same size (17mm on the 250). So, the first tool purchase is going to be Either a 3/8-drive socket wrench and a single socket (or the better deal, a set of sockets), OR a set of combination wrenches. Sockets are generally a little easier to use, especially for this particular task, but they cannot be used on all aspects of motorcycle maintenance. If you buy a set, the Important sizes are 8,10,12,14,17,19mm and sometimes larger (for axle bolts; this is highly bike-dependent, though). 13 and 15mm are usually included in such sets, but rarely used on motorcycles (they will come in handy if you work on metric cars, though). See here for another look at [[What should a good set of tools include?|what should be in your toolbox]]. | The first maintenance item most riders are likely to perform would be changing the oil. Not a very daunting task, you've heard it said. Maybe you've seen it done with family cars. There are only 2 bolts, and they're the same size (17mm on the 250). So, the first tool purchase is going to be Either a 3/8-drive socket wrench and a single socket (or the better deal, a set of sockets), OR a set of combination wrenches. Sockets are generally a little easier to use, especially for this particular task, but they cannot be used on all aspects of motorcycle maintenance. If you buy a set, the Important sizes are 8,10,12,14,17,19mm and sometimes larger (for axle bolts; this is highly bike-dependent, though). 13 and 15mm are usually included in such sets, but rarely used on motorcycles (they will come in handy if you work on metric cars, though). See here for another look at [[What should a good set of tools include?|what should be in your toolbox]]. | ||
A 6-point socket is superior to a 12-point because it fits the bolt/nut better, providing more surface area and less chance of rounding off the head. For $100 you can buy all these pieces from a | A 6-point socket is superior to a 12-point because it fits the bolt/nut better, providing more surface area and less chance of rounding off the head. For $100 you can buy all these pieces from a high-end maker, or about $70 from Sears/Home Depot/Lowe's (always buy from a company who offers a lifetime unconditional guarantee and is easy to access... this might be Home Depot and Lowe's for most people). You'll also need an oil drain pan ($10). A funnel and rubber gloves really help a lot, too. | ||
The [http://www.microflex.com/products/catalog/dg.asp MicroFlex Diamond Grip] latex gloves work well. These have a unique texture on the fingers that actually grips after they get wet. They're inexpensive, and you can use one pair for a whole day of wrenching. And, for the areas the gloves don't cover, [http://www2.northerntool.com/product/580415.htm Gojo hand cleaner], or something similar, is easy on your hands, but still gets them clean. | The [http://www.microflex.com/products/catalog/dg.asp MicroFlex Diamond Grip] latex gloves work well. These have a unique texture on the fingers that actually grips after they get wet. They're inexpensive, and you can use one pair for a whole day of wrenching. And, for the areas the gloves don't cover, [http://www2.northerntool.com/product/580415.htm Gojo hand cleaner], or something similar, is easy on your hands, but still gets them clean. | ||
As soon as you buy sockets, and, really, before you do any work on your bike, you should buy a quality torque wrench. Some places will offer limited warranties, others offer free calibrations (they go off after awhile and need to be recalibrated) ~ you'll have to find one that meets your price range and works for you. This is a tool you'll be using non-stop (almost) so spend the money if you have it to spend. | As soon as you buy sockets, and, really, before you do any work on your bike, you should buy a quality '''torque wrench'''. Some places will offer limited warranties, others offer free calibrations (they go off after awhile and need to be recalibrated) ~ you'll have to find one that meets your price range and works for you. This is a tool you'll be using non-stop (almost) so spend the money if you have it to spend. | ||
In all | In all actuality, if you're going to be doing the majority of the work on your bike, you'll need two torque wrenches. One, in inch-lbs, for the lower torque numbers, and another one, in foot-lbs, for higher torque usage. Take a look at the [[Torque Values|torque values page]] and see which things you'll be most likely to do. Then find out if you can find decent, quality torque wrenches in that range. Check eBay, our [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?|online tool guide]], or do a general internet search. If you do intend on hanging on to quality tools for a long time, you'll probably need something in the range of 50-250 in-lbs, and 10-100 ft-lbs. If you can only afford one wrench, buy the one you will use the most. | ||
There are two types of torque wrenches: the "clicker" and the "deflection beam". BrianM | There are two types of torque wrenches: the "clicker" and the "deflection beam". BrianM, Wes, and others say that, for the new mechanic, it may make more sense to start out with a deflection beam type. They're cheaper, and they don't have to be re-calibrated. Spending less money on each one may help to ensure that you will get both of the wrenches that you need. The major drawback to them is that you have to be able to look at the scale while you work, which can be a bit of a pain at times, and which is why professional mechanics use clicker-types. You use clickers just like a regular ratchet, but they click, or sometimes sort of shudder, when the proper torque is achieved, which makes them a little easier and faster to use. | ||
Deflection beam torque wrench on left; clicker type on right. | Deflection beam torque wrench on left; clicker type on right. | ||
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[[Image:deflection beam torque wrench.JPG|180px]] [[Image:clicker torque wrench.jpg|180px]] | [[Image:deflection beam torque wrench.JPG|180px]] [[Image:clicker torque wrench.jpg|180px]] | ||
Also, be aware while you're shopping that the first and last 10% of the range isn't accurate on a wrench, so buy one that fits the majority of your work. For instance, a 10-100 ft-lbs wrench has a range of 90, so it is only accurate from | Also, be aware while you're shopping that the first and last 10% of the range isn't accurate on a wrench, so buy one that fits the majority of your work. For instance, a 10-100 ft-lbs wrench has a range of 90, so it is only accurate from about 19 to 91, by the time you take 10% off each end. And remember, a torque wrench is '''only''' used to check the tension on nuts/bolts. Don't use it to loosen bolts with. That's what a ratchet or breaker bar is for. | ||
'''Note:''' Always return your | '''Note:''' Always return your torque wrench to the bottom of its range (e.g. 10 ft-lbs on a 10-100 ft-lb wrench) when not in use. This will take the tension off the spring inside and keep it in calibration longer. | ||
The next item of maintenance a rider is likely to encounter is adjusting the chain. This is one of those areas where a socket just won't work and you need a wrench. You'll still need a socket to loosen the rear axle, but the wrench will be used for adjusting the tension of the chain. You need to buy wrenches in the same sizes as the sockets mentioned above. Another cheap, but handy tool, is a 6" metal machinist's ruler ~ this will easily fit under the swingarm and give you accurate measurements for checking the slack ($3 anywhere). Similarly, a standard issue tape measure (the kind that you pull out of a body, usually goes to about 7 or 10') will come in handy for measuring the distance from the center of the axle to the center of the swingarm pivot on both sides, so you can ensure that the wheel is straight in the swingarm. | The next item of maintenance a rider is likely to encounter is adjusting the chain. This is one of those areas where a socket just won't work and you need a wrench. You'll still need a socket to loosen the rear axle, but the wrench will be used for adjusting the tension of the chain. You need to buy wrenches in the same sizes as the sockets mentioned above. Another cheap, but handy tool, is a 6" metal machinist's ruler ~ this will easily fit under the swingarm and give you accurate measurements for checking the slack ($3 anywhere). Similarly, a standard issue tape measure (the kind that you pull out of a body, usually goes to about 7 or 10') will come in handy for measuring the distance from the center of the axle to the center of the swingarm pivot on both sides, so you can ensure that the wheel is straight in the swingarm. | ||