GSXR600 shock: Difference between revisions

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[[image:overview 01.jpg|150px]]

~~[[image:overview 02.jpg|150px]]~~

1) Top eye. Too bad it is a tad small. I found I had to increase the diameter 1 mm. I did this with a sanding disc in the dremel. Round and round she went, stopping at no point until I felt I could press in the new ex250 shock fitting, which I got from Ron Ayers for ~$13.95. One problem solved. The top fitting width wise is spot on, so the top was done.

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4) 1.25" x 1/8 x 3 feet or so steel stock purchased from Home Depot. Make bracket to match up flat with the shock top mount, curving over the shock res clearance area, then bend into the rear fender to tie it back to the shock mount. A lot of heating with a propane torch and hammering/bending to get the rough shape, then cutting it to length and further heating/hammering/bending to get the exact fit. Cut the shock-to-fender mount off of the existing shock mount, then cut the legs off of the face of the piece you cut off. You need the face to bolt up to the rear fender in a stock-like fashion, but it will now be attached to the new bracket you make.

[[image:bracket 01.jpg|150px]]

[[image:bracket 01-1.jpg|150px]]

[[image:bracket 02.jpg|150px]]

[[image:bracket 03.jpg|150px]]

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6) The metal plate from under the old fender battery mount. Cut off the rivets, touch up with dremel and acetone on both it and the bracket, then locate and JB Weld the bracket into place.

7) Some time ago I purchased a second air box off ebay, so I could chop it up to give me a better box for the stock location, using the stock rubber strap as well and tool tray. I cut this off the battery box and used JB weld to relocate the catch for the rubber strap to the face of it. This allowed the K & N's to be installed while making no changes to the battery/tool tray areas. This is the battery box that I used to make this shock install. The important thing was to insure that the shock res had the play it needed, while the top posts of the battery did not exceed the top of the frame tubes above it and were preferably a touch below it. I did this well, but should have moved the battery forward 1/2 inch, as this would have made a perfect tool tray fitting, though it is still close to perfect.

7) Some time ago I purchased a second air box off ebay, so I could chop it up to give me a better box for the stock location, using the stock rubber strap as well and tool tray. I cut this off the battery box and used JB weld to relocate the catch for the rubber strap to the face of it. This allowed the K & N's to be installed while making no changes to the battery/tool tray areas. This is the battery box that I used to make this shock install.

[[image:battery 01.jpg|150px]]

[[image:battery 02.jpg|150px]]

The important thing was to insure that the shock res had the play it needed, while the top posts of the battery did not exceed the top of the frame tubes above it and were preferably a touch below it. I did this well, but should have moved the battery forward 1/2 inch, as this would have made a perfect tool tray fitting, though it is still close to perfect.

[[image:bracket 06.jpg|150px]]

@@ Line 5: / Line 5: @@
 [[image:overview 01.jpg|150px]]
-[[image:overview 02.jpg|150px]]
 ) Top eye. Too bad it is a tad small. I found I had to increase the diameter 1 mm. I did this with a sanding disc in the dremel. Round and round she went, stopping at no point until I felt I could press in the new ex250 shock fitting, which I got from Ron Ayers for ~$13.95. One problem solved. The top fitting width wise is spot on, so the top was done.
@@ Line 15: / Line 14: @@
 ) 1.25" x 1/8 x 3 feet or so steel stock purchased from Home Depot. Make bracket to match up flat with the shock top mount, curving over the shock res clearance area, then bend into the rear fender to tie it back to the shock mount. A lot of heating with a propane torch and hammering/bending to get the rough shape, then cutting it to length and further heating/hammering/bending to get the exact fit. Cut the shock-to-fender mount off of the existing shock mount, then cut the legs off of the face of the piece you cut off. You need the face to bolt up to the rear fender in a stock-like fashion, but it will now be attached to the new bracket you make.
-[[image:bracket 01.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:bracket 01-1.jpg|150px]]
 [[image:bracket 02.jpg|150px]]
 [[image:bracket 03.jpg|150px]]
@@ Line 26: / Line 25: @@
 ) The metal plate from under the old fender battery mount. Cut off the rivets, touch up with dremel and acetone on both it and the bracket, then locate and JB Weld the bracket into place.
-) Some time ago I purchased a second air box off ebay, so I could chop it up to give me a better box for the stock location, using the stock rubber strap as well and tool tray. I cut this off the battery box and used JB weld to relocate the catch for the rubber strap to the face of it. This allowed the K & N's to be installed while making no changes to the battery/tool tray areas. This is the battery box that I used to make this shock install. The important thing was to insure that the shock res had the play it needed, while the top posts of the battery did not exceed the top of the frame tubes above it and were preferably a touch below it. I did this well, but should have moved the battery forward 1/2 inch, as this would have made a perfect tool tray fitting, though it is still close to perfect.
+) Some time ago I purchased a second air box off ebay, so I could chop it up to give me a better box for the stock location, using the stock rubber strap as well and tool tray. I cut this off the battery box and used JB weld to relocate the catch for the rubber strap to the face of it. This allowed the K & N's to be installed while making no changes to the battery/tool tray areas. This is the battery box that I used to make this shock install.
+[[image:battery 01.jpg|150px]]
+[[image:battery 02.jpg|150px]]
+The important thing was to insure that the shock res had the play it needed, while the top posts of the battery did not exceed the top of the frame tubes above it and were preferably a touch below it. I did this well, but should have moved the battery forward 1/2 inch, as this would have made a perfect tool tray fitting, though it is still close to perfect.
 [[image:bracket 06.jpg|150px]]