Installing a ZX600 shock: Difference between revisions

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[[Category:Suspension]]
[[Category:Suspension]]
1986 ZX600 Rear Shock Installation on a 2004 Ninja 250
====Installation====


This shock was $5 on eBay. (This was a while ago. As of April/May, 2006, not-too-rusty ones were going for $50-80 shipped.) Here are illustrated instructions on the installation. It shouldn't take more than an hour. (More notes at bottom of page).  
The ZX600 shock is a definite upgrade for your rear suspension. Most think it's better than the EX500 shock.  


Here's the shock. You'll need to take off all that bracketry surrounding the air valve. You should also check to see if it holds pressure before beginning the install. '''Be sure to see the instructions for checking air pressure at the bottom.''' Most ZX600 models need little or no air.  
The first thing you'll need to do is take off all that bracketry surrounding the air valve. Then check to see if it [['''Be sure to see the instructions for checking air pressure at the bottom.'''}} holds pressure and [[ZX600 shock oil change|change the oil]] before beginning the install. Most owners find they need little or no air in this shock, so that may not matter, but you should indubitably do an oil change.  


[[Image:ZX600_shock_1.jpg|150px]]  
[[Image:ZX600_shock_1.jpg|150px]]  
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3. With a 17mm socket, begin removing the upper shock mounting bolt. It threads into the frame, so there isn't a nut on the other side.  
3. With a 17mm socket, begin removing the upper shock mounting bolt. It threads into the frame, so there isn't a nut on the other side.  


4. Now, remove the lower shock mounting bolt. The bolt head is 17mm but you'll need another socket/wrench to stop the nut from spinning with the bolt (nut = 19mm). An impact wrench (if you have one) will work wonders for this step.  
4. Now, remove the lower shock mounting bolt. The bolt head is 17mm, but you'll need another socket/wrench to stop the nut from spinning with the bolt (nut = 19mm). An impact wrench (if you have one) will work wonders for this step.  


5. The shock will now drop out (with a little persuasion). Put the nut back on the bolt and set it aside. Now you will need to remove the bolt to the left of lower shock mount. Again, use the impact wrench and set aside. This will aid in the positioning of the larger ZX600 shock.  
5. The shock will now drop out (with a little persuasion). Put the nut back on the bolt and set it aside. Now you will need to remove the bolt to the left of lower shock mount. Again, use the impact wrench, or a breaker bar, and set aside. This will aid in the positioning of the larger ZX600 shock.  


[[Image:ZX600_shock_3.jpg|150px]]  
[[Image:ZX600_shock_3.jpg|90px]]  


With both shocks out, you can compare the two. The ZX is much wider and heavier, but slightly shorter.  
With both shocks out you can compare the two. The ZX is much wider and heavier, but slightly shorter.  


[[Image:ZX600_shock_4.jpg|150px]]  
[[Image:ZX600_shock_4.jpg|150px]]  


6. Now you need to slide the ZX shock into position. This can be tricky. There is only one way the shock will sit correctly - the adjusting screw up top should be on the right - closer to the rear brake pedal. If it is reversed the screw will hit the frame and the shock will not align. Be careful not to harm the air line/connections. Insert the bolt (remember, there's no nut) and tighten it down.  
6. Now you need to slide the ZX shock into position. This can be tricky. There is only one way the shock will sit correctly - the adjusting screw up top should be on the right - closer to the rear brake pedal. If it is reversed, the screw will hit the frame and the shock will not align. Be careful not to harm the air line/connections. Insert the bolt (remember, there's no nut) and tighten it down.  


[[Image:ZX600_shock_5.jpg|150px]]  
[[Image:ZX600_shock_5.jpg|90px]]  


7. Before attaching to lower shock mounting bolt, assemble the arms.  
7. Before attaching the lower shock mounting bolt, assemble the arms.  


[[Image:ZX600_shock_6.jpg|150px]]  
[[Image:ZX600_shock_6.jpg|90px]]  


8. To mount the bottom end of the shock, first you need some 1/2" washers to act as spacers for the bolt. Without these, the shock will have too much side-to-side play. You may also find that the lower mounting bolt from the stock shock is too short. You can replace it with one from the ZX600 shock, part # 92002-1464 (BOLT,12X60). It is 5mm longer. (available from the usual [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?|OEM suppliers]]).  
8. To mount the bottom end of the shock, first you need some 1/2" washers to act as spacers for the bolt. Without these, the shock will have too much side-to-side play. You may also find that the lower mounting bolt from the stock shock is too short. You can replace it with one from the ZX600 shock, part # 92002-1464 (BOLT,12X60). It is 5mm longer. (available from the usual [[Where can I buy parts/tools online?|OEM suppliers]]).  
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====Checking the pressure in the shock====
====Checking the pressure in the shock====


'''Don't use an air compressor, and don't use a gauge.''' Get a shock pump from a bicycle store (this one is from Performance Bike, $20.)  
Don't use an air compressor, and don't use a gauge. Get a shock pump from a bicycle store (this one is from Performance Bike, $20.)  


[[Image:ZX600_shock_pump.jpg|150px]]  
[[Image:ZX600_shock_pump.jpg|110px]]  


The air reservoir can burst if you put too much pressure in it, and then you get to start all over again. Likewise, if you put a tire gauge on the air hose, some of the shock oil may leak out. It's better to get a good shock pump, like the one above, and use that to check and adjust your pressure.  
The air reservoir can burst if you put too much pressure in it, and then you get to start all over again. Likewise, if you put a tire gauge on the air hose, some of the shock oil may leak out. It's better to get a good shock pump, like the one above, and use that to check and adjust your pressure.  
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Max psi is 28, so be careful. It doesn't take much to get that high. Make sure your bicycle shock pump is accurate at that low pressure. Several ~140-pound riders reported on their pressure settings. One on the "A" series ('85-'87) used about 15-20 psi. A different member with an "A" series said he uses about 5 psi around town, and increases it to 20 for sporting weekend rides. The member who had a newer "C" series ('88-'97) shock said that he usually found the shock to be stiff enough without any air in it. You'll have to test for yourself, and see what works for you. Be careful when adding air, though.  
Max psi is 28, so be careful. It doesn't take much to get that high. Make sure your bicycle shock pump is accurate at that low pressure. Several ~140-pound riders reported on their pressure settings. One on the "A" series ('85-'87) used about 15-20 psi. A different member with an "A" series said he uses about 5 psi around town, and increases it to 20 for sporting weekend rides. The member who had a newer "C" series ('88-'97) shock said that he usually found the shock to be stiff enough without any air in it. You'll have to test for yourself, and see what works for you. Be careful when adding air, though.  


 
====Notes====
'''Notes:'''


*You can tell the difference the moment you sit on the saddle. It's much more stiff, with quicker rebound.  
*You can tell the difference the moment you sit on the saddle. It's much more stiff, with quicker rebound.  
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====What you're looking for====
====What you're looking for====


You want a shock from a ZX600 A, B, or C (1985-1997). You don't want one from a ZX-6 (ZX600E) or a ZX-6R (ZX600F).<br>
You want a shock from a ZX600 A, B, or C (1985-1997). You don't want one from a ZX-6 (ZX600E) or a ZX-6R (ZX600F).
'85-'87 ZX600A and '87 ZX600B part # is 45014-1307. '88-'97 ZX600C is #45014-1367.
 
Part numbers:
 
*'85-'87 ZX600A and '87 ZX600B: 45014-1307.  
*'88-'97 ZX600C: 45014-1367.


If it looks like this:  
If it looks like this: