Hints & Tips: Valve Adjustment: Difference between revisions

Line 6:

*If you want to use a special tool, get the Kawasaki one. Other sets, specifically the Motion Pro one that's designed for use on multiple kinds of bikes, won't fit.

*Make sure you know which ones are the exhaust and intake valves and the specs for each ~~(hint; the~~ exhaust valves are the ones closest to the exhaust header; ~~the~~ intake valves are closest to the airbox).

*Make sure you know which ones are the exhaust and intake valves and the specs for each. '''Hint''': The exhaust valves are the ones closest to the exhaust header; there are four of them. The intake valves are closest to the airbox; there four of these, too.

*Moving the radiator: Remove the mounting bolts and unfasten the filler neck so it can be pushed forward (no need to remove hoses), and remove the fan. Very easy to do, and it gives a lot more space.

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*Don't drop your feeler gauge into the engine. You have two choices: Make a leash for it and tie it to your (wrist/belt/earring) or have a long [http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200328301_200328301 magnetic pickup] standing by. Or, alternatively, just don't take the gauge out of your set!

*Don't drop one of the spark plug gaskets in the engine, either. In the pictures those gaskets just sit there all nice and pretty. They have been known to stick to the valve cover then fall off, or find other ways of getting into the engine. Be careful.

*Finding the correct amount of gap with a feeler gauge is easier if you use a "go-no go", or "stepped" gauge. The old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler guage... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So you just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade, and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this:

@@ Line 6: / Line 6: @@
 *If you want to use a special tool, get the Kawasaki one. Other sets, specifically the Motion Pro one that's designed for use on multiple kinds of bikes, won't fit.
-*Make sure you know which ones are the exhaust and intake valves and the specs for each (hint; the exhaust valves are the ones closest to the exhaust header; the intake valves are closest to the airbox).
+*Make sure you know which ones are the exhaust and intake valves and the specs for each. '''Hint''': The exhaust valves are the ones closest to the exhaust header; there are four of them. The intake valves are closest to the airbox; there four of these, too.
 *Moving the radiator: Remove the mounting bolts and unfasten the filler neck so it can be pushed forward (no need to remove hoses), and remove the fan. Very easy to do, and it gives a lot more space.
@@ Line 20: / Line 20: @@
 *Don't drop your feeler gauge into the engine. You have two choices: Make a leash for it and tie it to your (wrist/belt/earring) or have a long [http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200328301_200328301 magnetic pickup] standing by.  Or, alternatively, just don't take the gauge out of your set!
+*Don't drop one of the spark plug gaskets in the engine, either. In the pictures those gaskets just sit there all nice and pretty. They have been known to stick to the valve cover then fall off, or find other ways of getting into the engine. Be careful.
 *Finding the correct amount of gap with a feeler gauge is easier if you use a "go-no go", or "stepped" gauge. The old school technique was to feel a little drag on the feeler guage... it was described as about what you'd feel when pulling a sheet of paper out from under a magazine or two. Slight drag. New way of thought is that ANY adjustment, within spec, is good enough (and it is for street riders). So you just make sure the gauge for the middle spec goes in fine, but the next thicker one doesn't go at all. The stepped feeler gauges have the smaller clearance on the first inch of the blade, and the next higher clearance on the upper part. This makes it easy to see where you are with just one gauge instead of flipping back and forth between two different ones. Like this: