Cleaning the carbs 1: Difference between revisions

Line 1:

[[Category:Intake]]

There are 2 separate levels of carb cleaning. The first level is if you have carbs that do work, but you just think they're not the same as before/have lost some performance or smoothness (say, after a winter or other long rest period where the bike sat for awhile). If you just want to try and improve the function a little bit, then using Yamaha Carb Cleaner is suggested:

There are 2 separate levels of carb cleaning. The first level is if you have carbs that do work, but you just think they're not the same as before/have lost some performance or smoothness (say, after a winter or other long rest period where the bike sat for awhile). If you just want to try and improve the function a little bit, then using Yamaha Carb Cleaner is suggested. However, as environmental time marches on, the original formula of the Yamaha product is becoming very difficult to find. It most likely isn't made any more. There is a [http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/Maintenance/Y-ACC-CARBC-LE-NR.html Yamaha Carb Cleaner], but it's a water-based product that has been reported to be less effective than the original. And just because the picture at the online store matches the photo below doesn't mean it' the same stuff.

[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_1.JPG|150px]]

A little back-story on why this stuff is recommended. In the 90's, Yamaha made the mistake of fueling up their bikes as they rolled off the line in Japan ~~and before they were crated up for shipment~~. This means that the gas sat in tanks and carbs for many months while the bikes crossed oceans and continents, then sat in showrooms and warehouses. Pretty soon, Yamaha dealers were flooding their techs with the need to clean the carbs ~~(or replace them because of EPA laws)~~, and this was all warranty work that Yamaha was paying for. To stop this flood of spending, they set some of their rather excellent chemists to the task of developing a cleaner. Thankfully, they did it right (saving Yamaha millions of dollars) and affording the rest of the world with a carb cleaner that Actually works, without destroying the carb internals. It is the only chemical cleaner that really does Anything noticeable. Its main usefulness is for loosening the crud inside the carbs, making the later hand cleaning a lot easier.

A little back-story on why this stuff is recommended. In the 90's, Yamaha made the mistake of fueling up their bikes as they rolled off the line in Japan. This means that the gas sat in tanks and carbs for many months while the bikes crossed oceans and continents, then sat in showrooms and warehouses. Pretty soon, Yamaha dealers were flooding their techs with the need to clean the carbs, and this was all warranty work that Yamaha was paying for. To stop this flood of spending, they set some of their rather excellent chemists to the task of developing a cleaner.

Anyway, you [[Draining the carbs|drain the carb bowls]] of gas, close the drain screws and pour the mixture in. Use a small funnel:

Since this cleaner is not available any more, if you have any carb problems you might as well plan on removing and cleaning them properly. Keep reading. The Yamaha Cleaner's main usefulness was always for loosening the crud inside the carbs, making the later hand cleaning a lot easier.

The Berryman Chem Dip mentioned below is still available, but for the same environmental reasons you may have a hard time finding it.

Anyway, you [[Draining the carbs|drain the carb bowls]] of gas, close the drain screws, and pour the mixture in. Use a small funnel:

[[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_2.JPG|150px]] [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_3.JPG|150px]]

Line 12:

Line 16:

Then, if you follow the directions, you'd drain and try starting after an hour or two... or just leave it to sit overnight (2nd part of the directions).

*An aside from loudboys: A good alternative is called [[http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146 Berryman Chem Dip]]. It's absolutely the best carb cleaner on the planet. It comes in a gallon can; basically a paint can with an included basket to put the parts in and lower them into the can.

*An aside from loudboys: A good alternative is called [[http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146 Berryman Chem Dip]]. It's absolutely the best carb cleaner on the planet. It comes in a gallon can; basically a paint can with an included basket to put the parts in and lower them into the can. I've been using this stuff for 25 years. You can take a carburetor that's been sitting in a junkyard for decades and clean it in an hour. The really great thing about it is that after you're done, you put the top back on and use it again later. A can of it will last for years.

:I've been using this stuff for 25 years. You can take a carburetor that's been sitting in a junkyard for decades and clean it in an hour. The really great thing about it is that after you're done, you put the top back on and use it again later. A can of it will last for years.

:Of course, '''you have to keep all rubber and paint well away from it''' (including rubber o-rings, diaphragms and seals). Hard plastic parts won't be affected. You'll want to wear gloves when you use it~~. It's available at just about any auto parts store for around 15 bucks~~.

:Of course, '''you have to keep all rubber and paint well away from it''' (including rubber o-rings, diaphragms and seals). Hard plastic parts won't be affected. You'll want to wear gloves when you use it.

Now, for those of you who want to do it Right (because that's the kind of person you are, or because you're going to keep the bike for awhile), then this is the procedure, tools, hints, parts.. etc, for cleaning. No instructions for [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|Removing the carbs]] are included, though. (If you can't follow the manual or FAQ to remove the carbs, then you probably aren't equipped to do this work).

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [[Category:Intake]]
-There are 2 separate levels of carb cleaning. The first level is if you have carbs that do work, but you just think they're not the same as before/have lost some performance or smoothness (say, after a winter or other long rest period where the bike sat for awhile). If you just want to try and improve the function a little bit, then using Yamaha Carb Cleaner is suggested:
+There are 2 separate levels of carb cleaning. The first level is if you have carbs that do work, but you just think they're not the same as before/have lost some performance or smoothness (say, after a winter or other long rest period where the bike sat for awhile). If you just want to try and improve the function a little bit, then using Yamaha Carb Cleaner is suggested. However, as environmental time marches on, the original formula of the Yamaha product is becoming very difficult to find. It most likely isn't made any more. There is a [http://www.boats.net/parts/detail/Maintenance/Y-ACC-CARBC-LE-NR.html Yamaha Carb Cleaner], but it's a water-based product that has been reported to be less effective than the original. And just because the picture at the online store matches the photo below doesn't mean it' the same stuff.
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_1.JPG|150px]]
-A little back-story on why this stuff is recommended. In the 90's, Yamaha made the mistake of fueling up their bikes as they rolled off the line in Japan and before they were crated up for shipment. This means that the gas sat in tanks and carbs for many months while the bikes crossed oceans and continents, then sat in showrooms and warehouses. Pretty soon, Yamaha dealers were flooding their techs with the need to clean the carbs (or replace them because of EPA laws), and this was all warranty work that Yamaha was paying for. To stop this flood of spending, they set some of their rather excellent chemists to the task of developing a cleaner. Thankfully, they did it right (saving Yamaha millions of dollars) and affording the rest of the world with a carb cleaner that Actually works, without destroying the carb internals. It is the only chemical cleaner that really does Anything noticeable. Its main usefulness is for loosening the crud inside the carbs, making the later hand cleaning a lot easier.
+A little back-story on why this stuff is recommended. In the 90's, Yamaha made the mistake of fueling up their bikes as they rolled off the line in Japan. This means that the gas sat in tanks and carbs for many months while the bikes crossed oceans and continents, then sat in showrooms and warehouses. Pretty soon, Yamaha dealers were flooding their techs with the need to clean the carbs, and this was all warranty work that Yamaha was paying for. To stop this flood of spending, they set some of their rather excellent chemists to the task of developing a cleaner.
-Anyway, you [[Draining the carbs|drain the carb bowls]] of gas, close the drain screws and pour the mixture in. Use a small funnel:
+Since this cleaner is not available any more, if you have any carb problems you might as well plan on removing and cleaning them properly. Keep reading. The Yamaha Cleaner's main usefulness was always for loosening the crud inside the carbs, making the later hand cleaning a lot easier.
+The Berryman Chem Dip mentioned below is still available, but for the same environmental reasons you may have a hard time finding it.
+Anyway, you [[Draining the carbs|drain the carb bowls]] of gas, close the drain screws, and pour the mixture in. Use a small funnel:
 [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_2.JPG|150px]]  [[Image:Brian_Carb_Clean_3.JPG|150px]]
@@ Line 12: / Line 16: @@
 Then, if you follow the directions, you'd drain and try starting after an hour or two... or just leave it to sit overnight (2nd part of the directions).
-*An aside from loudboys: A good alternative is called [[http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146 Berryman Chem Dip]]. It's absolutely the best carb cleaner on the planet. It comes in a gallon can; basically a paint can with an included basket to put the parts in and lower them into the can.
+*An aside from loudboys: A good alternative is called [[http://www.berrymanproducts.com/Default.aspx?tabid=146 Berryman Chem Dip]]. It's absolutely the best carb cleaner on the planet. It comes in a gallon can; basically a paint can with an included basket to put the parts in and lower them into the can. I've been using this stuff for 25 years. You can take a carburetor that's been sitting in a junkyard for decades and clean it in an hour. The really great thing about it is that after you're done, you put the top back on and use it again later. A can of it will last for years.
-:I've been using this stuff for 25 years. You can take a carburetor that's been sitting in a junkyard for decades and clean it in an hour. The really great thing about it is that after you're done, you put the top back on and use it again later. A can of it will last for years.
-:Of course, '''you have to keep all rubber and paint well away from it''' (including rubber o-rings, diaphragms and seals). Hard plastic parts won't be affected. You'll want to wear gloves when you use it. It's available at just about any auto parts store for around 15 bucks.
+:Of course, '''you have to keep all rubber and paint well away from it''' (including rubber o-rings, diaphragms and seals). Hard plastic parts won't be affected. You'll want to wear gloves when you use it.
 Now, for those of you who want to do it Right (because that's the kind of person you are, or because you're going to keep the bike for awhile), then this is the procedure, tools, hints, parts.. etc, for cleaning. No instructions for [[How do I remove the carbs to work on them?|Removing the carbs]] are included, though. (If you can't follow the manual or FAQ to remove the carbs, then you probably aren't equipped to do this work).