Mounting & balancing tires yourself: Difference between revisions

Line 1:

[[Category:Tires]]

__TOC__

~~'''BrianM~~, ~~making~~ it ~~look easy (and~~ it ~~is..~~.~~)'''~~

This process is not nearly as difficult as it seems and, like most things, it gets easier after the first time you do it.

====Preparation====

Line 18:

[[Image:mount balance 1.JPG|150px]]

Not shown, above, is the valve core tool. ~~I like~~ 11" tire irons ~~personally~~, as they're just long enough to forgive sloppy technique, but not long enough to give enough leverage to easily bend a rim. ~~Note, I do NOT use tire~~ lube ~~of any sort, as I don~~'t ~~find it~~ necessary~~. But~~, it does make the task a bit easier.~~.. so~~ if you're going that route, buy some purpose-made tire lube. Don't try to make do with something, and '''DO NOT''' use dish soap and water, as that stuff can, and will, eat at the tire. It's designed to attack grease (oil), and tires are a petroleum product. ~~I've seen a few~~ nasty looking tires ~~that had~~ gooey, melty rubber from dish soap.

Not shown, above, is the valve core tool. Use 11" (or so) tire irons, as they're just long enough to forgive sloppy technique, but not long enough to give enough leverage to easily bend a rim. Tire lube isn't strictly necessary, but most people find it does make the task a bit easier. So, if you're going that route, buy some purpose-made tire lube. Don't try to make do with something, and '''DO NOT''' use dish soap and water, as that stuff can, and will, eat at the tire. It's designed to attack grease (oil), and tires are a petroleum product. It is possible to get nasty-looking tires with gooey, melty rubber from dish soap.

Dish soap is also not kind to your wheels. After a few years, it has eaten away the rim on this one to the point that it will no longer hold air.

Line 36:

[[Image:mount balance 2.JPG|150px]]

This is so you can break the bead. ~~I'm using~~ the [http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/beadbreaker.html 2x4 method]. It's cheap, easy and works well.

This is so you can break the bead. Shown here is the [http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/beadbreaker.html 2x4 method]. It's cheap, easy and works well.

[[Image:mount balance 3.JPG|150px]]

Line 86:

====Inspecting rims and new tires====

At this point, ~~I like to~~ clean up the rim inside and out~~. Mine happened to have what seemed like some sort of glue on the inside. It took some strong solvents to get this stuff off~~. You want to make sure the seat area (which is the flat landing just off the edge of the rim, on the inside) is clean and fairly nick/ding free. Bends, dings, nicks or junk in there can contribute to a slow leak~~...~~ and who wants to deal with that? You should also check the wheel bearings by just putting a finger in them and spinning.~~.. they~~ should rotate smoothly and easily, without any gritty feeling. If they feel gritty, it's time to [[Replacing the wheel bearings|replace them]] before riding again.

At this point, clean up the rim inside and out. You want to make sure the seat area (which is the flat landing just off the edge of the rim, on the inside) is clean and fairly nick/ding free. Bends, dings, nicks or junk in there can contribute to a slow leak, and who wants to deal with that? You should also check the wheel bearings by just putting a finger in them and spinning. They should rotate smoothly and easily, without any gritty feeling. If they feel gritty, it's time to [[Replacing the wheel bearings|replace them]] before riding again.

The valve stem itself is also something you should inspect. Bend it and look for cracks anywhere in the surface, but mostly right where it gets narrow to go back through the rim. It's easy to change right now, and more work if it fails when you don't need to change the tire. Valve stems are removed by cutting them off with a utility knife. The "tool" to install new ones is a couple bucks at auto parts places. It screws onto the threaded part of the stem and gives you something to grasp so you can pull it into place. You put the threaded part through the hole, attach the tool, and pull it into place.

Line 92:

Here's an example of a valve tool from [http://www.aerostich.com/product.php?productid=16809&cat=538&page=1 Aerostich]. It both removes the core and screws onto the valve stem to pull it through the rim.

Get the shortest stem you can find. Angled ones are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and ~~I'm not a fan of~~ the screw-together metal stems~~, mostly because they~~ can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. ~~I tend~~ to just change ~~mine~~ every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. They may just give it to you. Tireflies and other heavy caps will lead to premature stem failure. ''If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing valve stem replacements a lot sooner.''

Get the shortest stem you can find. Angled ones are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and the screw-together metal stems can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. It's best to just change the valve stem every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. They may just give it to you. Tireflies and other heavy caps will lead to premature stem failure. ''If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing valve stem replacements a lot sooner.''

~~I also like to~~ check the static balance of just the rim, as the valve stem never seems to be the heavy point any more. I do this on the cheap, with the axle and a couple of jack stands. You can spend lots more money to do the same thing and never feel a difference. Don't spin the wheel; that'll just take more time to slow down. Instead, rotate the wheel 90* and let go. Do this a couple times, and the heavy spot will always fall. If there isn't a heavy spot, then it won't rotate from where you let go.

At this point, check the static balance of just the rim (without the tire on it), as the valve stem never seems to be the heavy point any more. You can do this on the cheap, with the axle and a couple of jack stands. You can spend lots more money to do the same thing and never feel a difference. Don't spin the wheel; that'll just take more time to slow down. Instead, rotate the wheel 90* and let go. Do this a couple times, and the heavy spot will always fall. If there isn't a heavy spot, then it won't rotate from where you let go.

[[Image:mount balance 12.JPG|150px]]

Make note, or mark on the inside of the wheel, where the heavy spot is located. As you can see above, my valve stem is off to the right, and very much Not the heavy spot.

Make note, or mark on the inside of the wheel, where the heavy spot is located. As you can see above, the valve stem is off to the right, and very much Not the heavy spot.

It's important to note that tires are directional, due to how they're constructed. The arrow is plainly shown on the side of the tire, like this (to the left)

Line 104:

[[Image:mount balance 13.JPG|150px]]

Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4 digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. ~~Mine~~ is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3~4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250!). You should also look for a round dot, about the size of a dime, on the tire. This is an indicator of the lightest spot on the tire from the manufacturer, though not all brands have this (my Avon ~~did not~~)... You'll want to line this up with the heaviest spot on the rim that you noted earlier.

Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4 digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. This one is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3~4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250!). You should also look for a round dot, about the size of a dime, on the tire. This is an indicator of the lightest spot on the tire from the manufacturer, though not all brands have this (this Avon didn't). You'll want to line this up with the heaviest spot on the rim that you noted earlier.

====Mounting the new tire====

When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. If needed, you can use a rim protector, tire lube, and tire iron to help, as I needed here:

When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. If needed, you can use a rim protector, tire lube, and tire iron to help, as was needed here:

[[Image:mount balance 14.JPG|150px]]

Then push the first bead into the center of the rim, put some lube on the bead that is still outside the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons... It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.

Then, push the first bead into the center of the rim, put some lube on the bead that is still outside the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons. It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.

There are no pictures of this process, as it's impossible to stop without having the tire work its way off the rim. Here's Leon to give you a good idea of how it works. Keep your knees on the part that's already on the rim, the first bead in the low center part of the rim, work your way around with your tire irons, and it should only be difficult the last little bit.

Line 120:

With the tire on the rim, it's time to seat the bead with an air compressor. Those cheaper units that just provide an on-demand supply (often in blue boxes at gas stations) do NOT have enough oomph to do the job. You need a good source of air, but that's usually easy to get ahold of at any sort of shop doing any sort of work, or (my favorite) the old time gas station/garage. They always have good air.

Fill the tire up '''without''' the valve stem core in the valve stem and listen for 2 "pops". Front tires are usually very quick and easy with this; rears can be more difficult. ~~But~~ just lay the tire on the ground, as it was when you were changing it, and use your spare hand and knees to bump and lift the tire where air seems to be escaping from. It will seat with some patience and work. There have been members who have managed to seat the bead with tire lube and a high-pressure bicycle pump. YMMV

Fill the tire up '''without''' the valve stem core in the valve stem, and listen for 2 "pops". Front tires are usually very quick and easy with this; rears can be more difficult. If you have trouble, just lay the tire on the ground, as it was when you were changing it, and use your spare hand and knees to bump and lift the tire where air seems to be escaping from. It will seat with some patience and work. There have been members who have managed to seat the bead with tire lube and a high-pressure bicycle pump. YMMV

If you have a problem seating the bead, wet your hand with plain old water or tire lube and rub it (just a bit, you don't need to soak it) around the area not seating, and it should pop right out.

Line 126:

One tip, if the above methods don't work, is to use a ratcheting tiedown wrapped all the way around the tire and compress the tire down into the rim (this will force the beads towards the lips). Then you can seat the beads with air, as usual.

You'll then want to look for an even ring all the way around the rim, on the tire (there's usually some rings molded into the tire to make this task simple). If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated. Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up. ~~I usually go~~ over what I normally run until I get it back on the bike. ~~Always~~ easier to let some out than to add some back.

You'll then want to look for an even ring all the way around the rim, on the tire (there's usually some rings molded into the tire to make this task simple). If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated.

Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up. Go a little over what you normally run until you get it back on the bike. It's always easier to let some out than to add some back.

====Balancing====

Line 138:

Line 140:

[[Image:mount balance 16.JPG|150px]]

~~I like, and use, stick~~-ons ~~myself. They're~~ cheap, easy to come by and do the job well. You'll want to put your weights as close to the centerline of the wheel as possible. After you hold the wheel up and let it go, it will settle with the heaviest point at the bottom, just like before. You then want to put the weights on the top, at the lightest point. ~~I like to tape mine~~ on with something that's easily removed (painters, masking~~, electrical~~, scotch, whatever tape) and check again before affixing for good.

Stick-ons are cheap, easy to come by, and do the job well. You'll want to put your weights as close to the centerline of the wheel as possible. After you hold the wheel up and let it go, it will settle with the heaviest point at the bottom, just like before. You then want to put the weights on the top, at the lightest point. Tape them on with something that's easily removed (painters, masking, scotch, whatever tape) and check again before affixing for good.

Static balancing is good enough for professional roadracers, so it's certainly good enough for the average street rider. If you feel better having your wheels dynamically balanced by a machine, you can take it in to a shop and pay for that peace of mind. The primary advantage of the balancing machines seems to be that they're faster -- static balancing can take a while (5-20 minutes per tire) to do correctly.

Line 144:

Line 146:

[[Image:mount balance 17.JPG|150px]]

And with that, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to just put the tire back on the bike and go for a ride. ~~I hope this helps some folks who are interested in saving the rather stiff prices~~ charged for mounting tires. You can easily buy all the tools needed for less than what it'll cost to have a shop do the tires for you.

And with that, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to just put the tire back on the bike and go for a ride.

Prices charged for mounting tires at shops are usually not low. You can easily buy all the tools needed to do this for less than what it'll cost to have a shop do the tires for you once.

====Reattaching the wheel====

Line 170:

Line 174:

[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7546109776315225781&q=tire+change Tire changing on a budget]

[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8635543758286799977&q=tire+change This one] is on a tubed tire. It's slightly different. Also, he obviously doesn't care what his rims look like..~~. heh~~.

[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8635543758286799977&q=tire+change This one] is on a tubed tire. It's slightly different. Also, he obviously doesn't care what his rims look like...

@@ Line 1: / Line 1: @@
 [[Category:Tires]]
 __TOC__
-'''BrianM, making it look easy (and it is...)'''
+This process is not nearly as difficult as it seems and, like most things, it gets easier after the first time you do it.
 ====Preparation====
@@ Line 18: / Line 18: @@
 [[Image:mount balance 1.JPG|150px]]
-Not shown, above, is the valve core tool. I like 11" tire irons personally, as they're just long enough to forgive sloppy technique, but not long enough to give enough leverage to easily bend a rim. Note, I do NOT use tire lube of any sort, as I don't find it necessary. But, it does make the task a bit easier... so if you're going that route, buy some purpose-made tire lube. Don't try to make do with something, and '''DO NOT''' use dish soap and water, as that stuff can, and will, eat at the tire. It's designed to attack grease (oil), and tires are a petroleum product. I've seen a few nasty looking tires that had gooey, melty rubber from dish soap.
+Not shown, above, is the valve core tool. Use 11" (or so) tire irons, as they're just long enough to forgive sloppy technique, but not long enough to give enough leverage to easily bend a rim. Tire lube isn't strictly necessary, but most people find it does make the task a bit easier. So, if you're going that route, buy some purpose-made tire lube. Don't try to make do with something, and '''DO NOT''' use dish soap and water, as that stuff can, and will, eat at the tire. It's designed to attack grease (oil), and tires are a petroleum product. It is possible to get nasty-looking tires with gooey, melty rubber from dish soap.
 Dish soap is also not kind to your wheels. After a few years, it has eaten away the rim on this one to the point that it will no longer hold air.
@@ Line 36: / Line 36: @@
 [[Image:mount balance 2.JPG|150px]]
-This is so you can break the bead. I'm using the [http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/beadbreaker.html 2x4 method]. It's cheap, easy and works well.
+This is so you can break the bead. Shown here is the [http://www.ibmwr.org/otech/beadbreaker.html 2x4 method]. It's cheap, easy and works well.
 [[Image:mount balance 3.JPG|150px]]
@@ Line 86: / Line 86: @@
 ====Inspecting rims and new tires====
-At this point, I like to clean up the rim inside and out. Mine happened to have what seemed like some sort of glue on the inside. It took some strong solvents to get this stuff off. You want to make sure the seat area (which is the flat landing just off the edge of the rim, on the inside) is clean and fairly nick/ding free. Bends, dings, nicks or junk in there can contribute to a slow leak... and who wants to deal with that? You should also check the wheel bearings by just putting a finger in them and spinning... they should rotate smoothly and easily, without any gritty feeling. If they feel gritty, it's time to [[Replacing the wheel bearings|replace them]] before riding again.
+At this point, clean up the rim inside and out. You want to make sure the seat area (which is the flat landing just off the edge of the rim, on the inside) is clean and fairly nick/ding free. Bends, dings, nicks or junk in there can contribute to a slow leak, and who wants to deal with that? You should also check the wheel bearings by just putting a finger in them and spinning. They should rotate smoothly and easily, without any gritty feeling. If they feel gritty, it's time to [[Replacing the wheel bearings|replace them]] before riding again.
 The valve stem itself is also something you should inspect. Bend it and look for cracks anywhere in the surface, but mostly right where it gets narrow to go back through the rim. It's easy to change right now, and more work if it fails when you don't need to change the tire. Valve stems are removed by cutting them off with a utility knife. The "tool" to install new ones is a couple bucks at auto parts places. It screws onto the threaded part of the stem and gives you something to grasp so you can pull it into place. You put the threaded part through the hole, attach the tool, and pull it into place.
@@ Line 92: / Line 92: @@
 Here's an example of a valve tool from [http://www.aerostich.com/product.php?productid=16809&cat=538&page=1 Aerostich]. It both removes the core and screws onto the valve stem to pull it through the rim.
-Get the shortest stem you can find. Angled ones are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and I'm not a fan of the screw-together metal stems, mostly because they can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. I tend to just change mine every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. They may just give it to you. Tireflies and other heavy caps will lead to premature stem failure. ''If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing valve stem replacements a lot sooner.''
+Get the shortest stem you can find. Angled ones are a bad idea (need to be replaced more often) and the screw-together metal stems can be a PITA to get to fit correctly, and to remove later when they eventually fail. It's best to just change the valve stem every 3 or 4 sets of tires. The stem is the same standard size as those used by cars. You should be able to get one at any tire retailer. They may just give it to you. Tireflies and other heavy caps will lead to premature stem failure. ''If you run anything but plastic caps, you'll likely be doing valve stem replacements a lot sooner.''
-I also like to check the static balance of just the rim, as the valve stem never seems to be the heavy point any more. I do this on the cheap, with the axle and a couple of jack stands. You can spend lots more money to do the same thing and never feel a difference. Don't spin the wheel; that'll just take more time to slow down. Instead, rotate the wheel 90* and let go. Do this a couple times, and the heavy spot will always fall. If there isn't a heavy spot, then it won't rotate from where you let go.
+At this point, check the static balance of just the rim (without the tire on it), as the valve stem never seems to be the heavy point any more. You can do this on the cheap, with the axle and a couple of jack stands. You can spend lots more money to do the same thing and never feel a difference. Don't spin the wheel; that'll just take more time to slow down. Instead, rotate the wheel 90* and let go. Do this a couple times, and the heavy spot will always fall. If there isn't a heavy spot, then it won't rotate from where you let go.
 [[Image:mount balance 12.JPG|150px]]
-Make note, or mark on the inside of the wheel, where the heavy spot is located. As you can see above, my valve stem is off to the right, and very much Not the heavy spot.
+Make note, or mark on the inside of the wheel, where the heavy spot is located. As you can see above, the valve stem is off to the right, and very much Not the heavy spot.
 It's important to note that tires are directional, due to how they're constructed. The arrow is plainly shown on the side of the tire, like this (to the left)
@@ Line 104: / Line 104: @@
 [[Image:mount balance 13.JPG|150px]]
-Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4 digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. Mine is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3~4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250!). You should also look for a round dot, about the size of a dime, on the tire. This is an indicator of the lightest spot on the tire from the manufacturer, though not all brands have this (my Avon did not)... You'll want to line this up with the heaviest spot on the rim that you noted earlier.
+Also notice the DOT code. It's a 4 digit code that lists the week and the year the tire was made. This one is 3205, so the 32nd week of 2005. More than 3~4 years old and tires start to go 'off', get hard, and aren't any fun to ride on (worse than the stock Dunrocks on the 250!). You should also look for a round dot, about the size of a dime, on the tire. This is an indicator of the lightest spot on the tire from the manufacturer, though not all brands have this (this Avon didn't). You'll want to line this up with the heaviest spot on the rim that you noted earlier.
 ====Mounting the new tire====
-When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. If needed, you can use a rim protector, tire lube, and tire iron to help, as I needed here:
+When it comes time to put the new tire on, you should be able to just walk the first bead over the rim without any tools other than your body weight. If needed, you can use a rim protector, tire lube, and tire iron to help, as was needed here:
 [[Image:mount balance 14.JPG|150px]]
-Then push the first bead into the center of the rim, put some lube on the bead that is still outside the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons... It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.
+Then, push the first bead into the center of the rim, put some lube on the bead that is still outside the rim, and slowly work the tire on with your irons. It is important that you put the bead that is already all the way on the rim into the center of the rim (the deepest part), and not against the side of the rim on the far side. This will give your tire more slack, and will make it less likely that you'll have to bust your fingers trying to get the second bead on.
 There are no pictures of this process, as it's impossible to stop without having the tire work its way off the rim. Here's Leon to give you a good idea of how it works. Keep your knees on the part that's already on the rim, the first bead in the low center part of the rim, work your way around with your tire irons, and it should only be difficult the last little bit.
@@ Line 120: / Line 120: @@
 With the tire on the rim, it's time to seat the bead with an air compressor. Those cheaper units that just provide an on-demand supply (often in blue boxes at gas stations) do NOT have enough oomph to do the job. You need a good source of air, but that's usually easy to get ahold of at any sort of shop doing any sort of work, or (my favorite) the old time gas station/garage. They always have good air.
-Fill the tire up '''without''' the valve stem core in the valve stem and listen for 2 "pops". Front tires are usually very quick and easy with this; rears can be more difficult. But just lay the tire on the ground, as it was when you were changing it, and use your spare hand and knees to bump and lift the tire where air seems to be escaping from. It will seat with some patience and work. There have been members who have managed to seat the bead with tire lube and a high-pressure bicycle pump. YMMV
+Fill the tire up '''without''' the valve stem core in the valve stem, and listen for 2 "pops". Front tires are usually very quick and easy with this; rears can be more difficult. If you have trouble, just lay the tire on the ground, as it was when you were changing it, and use your spare hand and knees to bump and lift the tire where air seems to be escaping from. It will seat with some patience and work. There have been members who have managed to seat the bead with tire lube and a high-pressure bicycle pump. YMMV
 If you have a problem seating the bead, wet your hand with plain old water or tire lube and rub it (just a bit, you don't need to soak it) around the area not seating, and it should pop right out.
@@ Line 126: / Line 126: @@
 One tip, if the above methods don't work, is to use a ratcheting tiedown wrapped all the way around the tire and compress the tire down into the rim (this will force the beads towards the lips). Then you can seat the beads with air, as usual.
-You'll then want to look for an even ring all the way around the rim, on the tire (there's usually some rings molded into the tire to make this task simple). If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated. Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up. I usually go over what I normally run until I get it back on the bike. Always easier to let some out than to add some back.
+You'll then want to look for an even ring all the way around the rim, on the tire (there's usually some rings molded into the tire to make this task simple). If it's not even all the way around, the bead is not fully seated.
+Now, put the core back in the valve stem and fill the tire up. Go a little over what you normally run until you get it back on the bike. It's always easier to let some out than to add some back.
 ====Balancing====
@@ Line 138: / Line 140: @@
 [[Image:mount balance 16.JPG|150px]]
-I like, and use, stick-ons myself. They're cheap, easy to come by and do the job well. You'll want to put your weights as close to the centerline of the wheel as possible. After you hold the wheel up and let it go, it will settle with the heaviest point at the bottom, just like before. You then want to put the weights on the top, at the lightest point. I like to tape mine on with something that's easily removed (painters, masking, electrical, scotch, whatever tape) and check again before affixing for good.
+Stick-ons are cheap, easy to come by, and do the job well. You'll want to put your weights as close to the centerline of the wheel as possible. After you hold the wheel up and let it go, it will settle with the heaviest point at the bottom, just like before. You then want to put the weights on the top, at the lightest point. Tape them on with something that's easily removed (painters, masking, scotch, whatever tape) and check again before affixing for good.
 Static balancing is good enough for professional roadracers, so it's certainly good enough for the average street rider. If you feel better having your wheels dynamically balanced by a machine, you can take it in to a shop and pay for that peace of mind.  The primary advantage of the balancing machines seems to be that they're faster -- static balancing can take a while (5-20 minutes per tire) to do correctly.
@@ Line 144: / Line 146: @@
 [[Image:mount balance 17.JPG|150px]]
-And with that, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to just put the tire back on the bike and go for a ride. I hope this helps some folks who are interested in saving the rather stiff prices charged for mounting tires. You can easily buy all the tools needed for less than what it'll cost to have a shop do the tires for you.
+And with that, you're done mounting and balancing. Time to just put the tire back on the bike and go for a ride.
+Prices charged for mounting tires at shops are usually not low. You can easily buy all the tools needed to do this for less than what it'll cost to have a shop do the tires for you once.
 ====Reattaching the wheel====
@@ Line 170: / Line 174: @@
 [http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-7546109776315225781&q=tire+change  Tire changing on a budget]
-[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8635543758286799977&q=tire+change This one] is on a tubed tire. It's slightly different. Also, he obviously doesn't care what his rims look like... heh.
+[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=-8635543758286799977&q=tire+change This one] is on a tubed tire. It's slightly different. Also, he obviously doesn't care what his rims look like...