Servicing the swingarm: Difference between revisions
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*My bike has about 6300 mi on it, and I wanted to change tires. One thing led to another, and I end up removing the swingarm and uni-trak shock linkage. I followed the swingarm servicing procedure here in the FAQ. I'm amazed at the improvement I feel while riding now; it's almost like having a new shock back there. Well, not really; it still feels like a wet sponge, but the friction is gone. No longer can I feel every little pebble in the road. This service had never been done before on this bike, and I could see that there is little lube in there from the factory. The little bit of lube they use looks like petroleum jelly. | *My bike has about 6300 mi on it, and I wanted to change tires. One thing led to another, and I end up removing the swingarm and uni-trak shock linkage. I followed the swingarm servicing procedure here in the FAQ. I'm amazed at the improvement I feel while riding now; it's almost like having a new shock back there. Well, not really; it still feels like a wet sponge, but the friction is gone. No longer can I feel every little pebble in the road. This service had never been done before on this bike, and I could see that there is little lube in there from the factory. The little bit of lube they use looks like petroleum jelly. | ||
====Tools/supplies needed==== | |||
*22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-ended wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-ended wrench (or low-profile socket + ratchet (brake torque link arm), a 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier. | *22mm, 19mm, 17mm, 14mm, 12mm sockets and appropriate ratchet handle and/or wrenches. In particular, a 19mm open-ended wrench (suspension linkage 'holder wrench') and a 17mm open-ended wrench (or low-profile socket + ratchet (brake torque link arm), a 12" extension and a 30" breaker bar or piece of iron pipe will make this job a lot easier. | ||
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*[[Torque Values|Torque Values list]] | *[[Torque Values|Torque Values list]] | ||
*Molybdenum disulfide ("Moly") grease (any high-pressure bearing grease will do; however, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice). The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications, and reduces wear by plating the bearing needles | *Molybdenum disulfide ("Moly") grease (any high-pressure bearing grease will do; however, a waterproof [http://searchwarp.com/swa3953.htm lithium grease] containing [http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molybdenum_disulfide molybdenum disulphide] is the best choice). The factory explicitly calls for molybdenum disulphide, as it is an extremely effective additive for needle bearings in oscillating applications, and reduces wear by plating the bearing needles. | ||
*O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike, especially one with a custom rear shock with imperfect clevis fit (e.g. ZX600C or SV650 shocks). It is imperative these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but there's a bunch, and stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad. | *O-rings. Kawasaki part #92055-1215 (size 19.8 X 2.2) The Unitrak linkage uses a LOT of O-rings around the bushings, and it isn't that unusual to find some damaged ones on a high-miles bike, especially one with a custom rear shock with imperfect clevis fit (e.g. ZX600C or SV650 shocks). It is imperative these O-rings are in good shape. You normally don't need any, but there's a bunch, and stalling the job for 3-4 days because you're missing a $2 part would be bad. | ||