Replacing body fasteners/bolts: Difference between revisions
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The photos below show replacement black stainless steel bolts from [http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/ Murphs' Kits]. Murphs' specializes in parts for the Kawasaki Concours and is a favorite of the members of the [http://www.concours.org/ Concours Owners Group]. They don't really have a kit for the Ninja 250; our owner used leftovers from his Connie and a spare parts kit from Murphs'. This article will tell you which bolt sizes you need to do the replacement. You can contact Murph from his site, and if he won't make up a kit for you, there is a list of other bolt/fastener suppliers at the bottom. | The photos below show replacement black stainless steel bolts from [http://www.murphskits.com/catalog/ Murphs' Kits]. Murphs' specializes in parts for the Kawasaki Concours and is a favorite of the members of the [http://www.concours.org/ Concours Owners Group]. They don't really have a kit for the Ninja 250; our owner used leftovers from his Connie and a spare parts kit from Murphs'. This article will tell you which bolt sizes you need to do the replacement. You can contact Murph from his site, and if he won't make up a kit for you, there is a list of other bolt/fastener suppliers at the bottom. | ||
'''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|See here]] for more info on this. Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [ | '''Disclaimer first, AND PAY ATTENTION''': The bolts that go from the upper fairing into the gas tank are very size-sensitive. We recommend using only OEM Kawasaki bolts in that application. On older bikes, if you used one of the bolts from the bottom in the top fairing hole, you would puncture the tank, making it leak gas and making you replace it. [[How do I remove the fairing, fuel tank, etc?|See here]] for more info on this. Certainly don't use anything longer than the OEM length of [http://fiche.ronayers.com/Index.cfm/Module/Main/TypeID/26/Type/Motorcycle/MakeID/3/Make/Kawasaki/YearID/47/Year/2006/ModelID/4185/Model/Ninja_250R/GroupID/132458/Group/Cowling%281/2%29 6x18]. </disclaimer> | ||
The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. These work like a charm, no matter how many times | The stock body fasteners are not made from the highest quality metals known to man and are known to strip. These work like a charm, no matter how many times you take the plastics off. These are stainless steel button-head hex screws blackened for looks. Whatever process is used works well and lasts a long time. Our man has had no issues in years of use on his Connie. Each screw includes a washer and has a neoprene backing. This kit replaces the usual strippable-by-looking-at-them Philips head bolts with infinitely superior hex heads. | ||
To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm | To make a bodywork fastener kit for the Ninja 250, you will need 15 each 6x20mm bolts, 1 each 5x15 bolt and 2 each 6x25mm bolts for the upper and lower fairings. Plus 6 each 5x15 bolts for the Windshield. This breaks down into: | ||
* 6 - 5x15mm Windshield (5x12mm stock) | * 6 - 5x15mm Windshield (5x12mm stock) | ||
* 1 - 5x15mm Lower Fairing, Front Screen ( | * 1 - 5x15mm Lower Fairing, Front Screen (5x18mm stock) | ||
* 4 - 6x20mm Upper Fairing, Inner Panel (6x18mm stock) | * 4 - 6x20mm Upper Fairing, Inner Panel (6x18mm stock) | ||
* 4 - 6x20mm Front Turn Signals (6x18mm stock) | * 4 - 6x20mm Front Turn Signals (6x18mm stock) | ||