Steering head bearing replacement
Questions are <<<in bold like this>>>
Then the part I don't understand is under the question. A line after it ends the questionable part and continues the article.
How to tell if your bearings need looking at
It takes a huge problem to feel anything while riding. So, you need to get the front wheel off the ground. Turn the bars from side to side with the wheel off the ground. Feel for any slight notches. There should be no hesitation when turning the bars from side to side. If there's even the slightest notch or hesitation, they need greasing (at least).
Disassembly for replacement
If you think there is a problem after you do the testing, you're going to have to take apart the front of your bike to get at the bearings. If they feel pretty bad, you might want to order parts before you do this. If you just want to lube the bearings, the directions are basically the same, except for removing & replacing the parts.
If your races are notched, dented, or otherwise not smooth inside, you should replace them. Check to see that the bearings are in good shape and not pitted. If they just need to be lubed, see Lubing the bearings article.
If you want to replace the bearings with OEM parts, you need to get everything shown in these diagrams:
<<<Does this look right?>>>
Part numbers:
- To be added later
<<<These aren't really sealed bearings, are they? Look like roller bearings to me.>>> And no, I'm not going to use his crappy pictures.
You can also get sealed tapered roller bearings from All Balls. These sealed bearings will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is not something you're going to notice.
The part number for the All Balls kit is 22-1014, and this kit contains the following:
- Bottom (Larger): Bearing #99-3503 Seal #33-1006
- Top (Smaller): Bearing #99-3504 Seal #33-1005-1
This kit contains a seal for the top (smaller) bearing, which is not an OEM part and was not put on bikes from the factory. The seal fits fine, however, and helps keep dust and grime out and lubrication in.
Stuff that has to be removed
You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike. Removing the tank is optional, but a really good idea. As you did while testing, find a good method of propping the front end. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere.
These things need to be removed. If you're not sure how to do this, search through the FAQ for the info:
- Front wheel
- Brake caliper: Brake hose doesn't have to be disconnected, but tie the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the hose.
<<<Can you leave everything connected to the bars?>>>
- Both handlebars: Make sure the brake reservoir remains in an upright position, to keep air out of the line.
- Forks: Loosen the bolts on the upper and lower triple clamps one side at a time and take both forks out, taking care not to scratch the shiny surface.
- Disconnect the horn connectors and unbolt the horn.
Remove the stem lock bolt by turning the bars to their lock to the left and then using a wrench. The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. There are a couple ways to remove the nut:
<<<Which method? Preferred? More info? Don't know if there are different sizes of spanners.>>> This is the part that kept me from working on this article for a couple months.
- Use a spanner such as the kind used to adjust shock preload.
- Use a punch with a 90' nose and carefully hammer the nut until it's loose.
- >> Wes: Cheap-as-possible #3 Flat-tip screwdriver (use for steering head nut, you bang it with a mallet)
Once the nut is removed, remove the dust cover, the upper bearing race, and all the ball bearings. Keep it all, in case it can be reused. Watch for balls rolling around your workspace. Slide the triple tree down and remove the lower race and balls. Inspect these and set them aside for now if you decide to replace them.
Using a bearing puller, a piece of PVC pipe in the correct size, or a simple punch, knock out the races that are stuck in the frame. Don't worry about damaging the races; they're going to be replaced. Clean the places that hold the races on the frame with a rag, getting out all the dirt and grime.
^^^ IanJ - using a piece of steel rod to push out the lower race. Just sit it against the race in a different place for each whack of the hammer. Worked a treat.
>>>Need a good method for removing the race that's in the triple. Namely, how to put it in the vice w/o destroying it.>>>
Removing the race that's stuck on the triple tree can be a bit harder, but the same punch method while holding the tree portion in a vice. Don't worry about damaging the seal or washer, as they will also be replaced. Clean everything that will be reused.
>>>Need to know a good method of pounding in the new race, as this is quite vague.>>>
Take the larger bearing race (#99-3503 - the race is the part without the pins) and use a 'race pounder' or a hammer and then a punch after.
Be very careful to hit only the outside of the race. If you so much as lightly tap the punch on the inside of the race, it could ruin it. Install it in the bottom section of the frame.
<<<Then what?>>>
Tap it in at first with a hammer. Get a good view of it to make sure it's flat.
>>>Is a 'race pounder' necessary? What are the alternatives?>>>
I use a race pounder as its far easier and insures an equal install in its slot.
>>>I don't understand this mess at all.>>>
Do the same for the top race(#99-3504), noting that the bottom race looks like this: |/ \| and the top like this: |\ /| when installed. Larger side towards the outside of the tube, which is down for the lower one, and up for the upper.
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>>>Does the steering stem detach from the lower triple or is it part of it?>>> I can't figure out how it's attached.
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Installing the larger (#99-3503) bearing onto the triple tree can be fairly difficult. If you have a hydraulic press and some PVC tubing, use that. If not, use a hammer and something hard to hold the clamps against. Place the bottom of the triple clamps so they are completely flat. Any angle in them and you'll bend them flat - which means you will need a new triple tree.
First, slide the larger seal (#33-1006) down, with the metal side facing downwards. Now slide the bearing down the tube, with the smaller outside diameter on the up side, and give it a solid push down with your hands so it doesn't move around in the next steps. Take a suitably close diameter piece of PVC tubing and the old bottom race flipped upside down to give the tubing more lip to bite onto. Be careful when you apply pressure. Do so slowly, and be ready for loud "pop" sounds as it goes on. Release the pressure once or twice to visually inspect for crookedness and make sure it's seating properly.
Lube everything up liberally, making sure you work the grease into the bearings well. Spin them several times and then re-apply to ensure it's getting deep into them. Put an extra bead just above the bottom bearing, as it will get forced down into the bearing when you install the forks and the bearings seat the grease in properly. Do the same for the races.
Slide the triple tree up into the frame. Take the smaller bearing (#99-3504) that you already worked grease into and slide it, small outer diameter side down, onto the tree. You will note this seems to stick up a bit - it does - and your bars will be a bit higher than before. Take the smaller seal (#33-1005-1) and place it, metal side up, onto the bearing. It should almost 'click' on, and on top of this you will place the dust cover and then the stem nut.
Tighten the stem nut up VERY tight, as hard as you think you can and still get it off. You are trying to seat the bearings, and you want maximum compression on all the bearings. Loosen it off until you can turn the triple tree freely.
Adjust the tightness of the stem nut. You want it tightened to just before it binds. No looser and no tighter. You want your bars to turn freely lock to lock with just a push of your hand (while the front end is suspended). Tighten the nut until it gets a bit of resistance, then back off a tad. Then do that again to make sure.
It's important to recheck the stem nut torque after riding for a week or two, as it may have 'settled' and become loose.
Reassemble the forks, fender, wheel, brake caliper, handlebars, and controls. Leave all of the nuts loose except the fender, as you can't reach those with the wheel on.
>>>This whole next part is completely unintelligible.>>> I can kind of figure it out, but I don't have enough knowledge to rewrite it.
You should also tighten the handlebar holder bolts for the next step, but loosen them for the tightening of the other bolts, so you can square the forks later. Use some logic for "how loose?". Tighten the bolts on the triple clamps good (dont want them to give when you set them), but things like the axel extra loose. Once we have the front end back together, take the bike off of its supports and let the front wheel touch the ground. Jump up and down, or do anything to compress, on the forks, you're trying to push, pull, and contort the forks, squaring them off in the process. Its best to do this outside or with a partner so you dont fall over. Dont get over enthusiastic though, you just want them to get set properly, not brake them, or your back.
Tighten all the bolts, then check them all again. Snug the top stem bolt. Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, readjust the tightness of the stem nut.
Go for a very quick test ride, then come back to tighten everything again. Recheck the stem nut torque after riding for a week or two, to make sure it hasn't settled and become loose.
