Steering head bearing replacement
How to tell if your bearings need looking at
Get the front wheel of the bike off the ground. Turn the bars from side to side with no weight on them (wheel off the ground). Feel for any slight notches. On the road it takes a HUGE problem to feel it, but the races shown in the photo below were only slightly noticeable when the front was lifted. Turning from side to side there should be absolutely no hesitation. If there's even the slightest notch or hesitation while turning, they need greasing at the very least, or rotating.
Disassembly for replacement
If you think there is a problem after you do the testing, you're going to have to take apart the front of your bike to get at the bearings. As long as you're going that far, you should probably plan on replacing them. If you just want to lube the bearings, you can also follow these steps, leaving out the bashing-on-stuff parts.
If your races are looking like this, or the ball bearings are falling apart, then it definitely is time for a new set of bearings.
You could go the OEM way, but for less money you can have a set of sealed tapered roller bearings from All Balls. These sealed bearings will last longer and require less maintenance. They will raise your bars 1/8-1/4", which is irrelevant for most folks.
The part number for the All Balls kit is # 22-1014 (works for Canada, too) and this kit contains the following:
- Bottom (Larger): Bearing #99-3503 Seal #33-1006
- Top (Smaller): Bearing #99-3504 Seal #33-1005-1
This kit contains a seal for the top (smaller) bearing, which is not an OEM part and was not put on bikes from the factory. The seal fits fine, however, and helps keep dust and grime out, and lubrication in.
Stuff that has to be removed
You're going to have to remove most everything on the front end of the bike. Removing the tank is optional, but a really good idea. See here for reference. As you did while testing, find a good method of propping the front end. Make sure it is all stable and not going anywhere.
These things need to be removed. If you're not sure how to do this, search through the FAQ for the info:
- Front wheel and brake caliper; brake hose doesn't have to de disconnected, but tie the caliper up so it doesn't hang by the hose.
- Both handlebars; find some way to keep the brake side oriented in the correct direction so no air gets into the hose. If this is done incorrectly, you will need to bleed your brake lines afterwards. Try something like a bungee to the ceiling or to a ladder.
- Loosen the bolts on the upper and lower triple clamps one side at a time and take both forks out, taking care not to scratch the shiny surface unnecessarily.
- Disconnect the horn connectors, and then unbolt the horn or it will get in the way.
Remove the stem lock bolt by turning the bars to their lock to the left and then using a wrench. The top triple tree should come off now and reveal the stem nut itself. Removing the stem nut will require a semi-specific tool, and is fairly difficult to do without one. Purchasing the proper tool is cheap and recommended.
pin spanner/wrench' (british and USA version) and mine looks something like this: 
Alternatively, you can use a punch with a 90' nose to it and carefully hammer the nut until it's loose. Careful with this method though; it can round off the nut if not done correctly.
Once the nut is removed, remove the dust cover and the upper bearing race with all the balls stuck in the grease inside (hopefully). Keep all of this in case they are OK to re-use, and be careful not to lose all those little balls. Slide the triple tree down, again being careful not to loose the (this time lower) race and balls. Inspect these and set them aside for now if you decide to replace them.
>> Wes: Cheap-as-possible #3 Flat-tip screwdriver (use for steering head nut, you bang it with a mallet)
>>> IanJ - using a piece of steel rod to push out the lower race. Just sit it against the race in a different place for each whack of the hammer. Worked a treat.>>>
Using a bearing puller, a piece of PVC pipe in the correct size, or a simple punch, knock out the races that are stuck in the frame. Don't worry about damaging the races; they're going to be replaced. Clean the places that hold the races on the frame with a rag, getting out all the dirt and grime.
>>>Need a good method for removing the race that's in the triple. Namely, how to put it in the vice w/o destroying it.>>>
Removing the race that's stuck on the triple tree can be a bit harder, but the same punch method while holding the tree portion in a vice. Don't worry about damaging the seal or washer, as they will also be replaced. Clean everything that will be reused.
>>>Need to know a good method of pounding in the new race, as this is quite vague.>>>
Take the larger bearing race (#99-3503 - the race is the part without the pins) and use a 'race pounder' or a hammer and then a punch after.
Be very careful to hit only the outside of the race. This one is being used. If you so much as lightly tap the punch on the inside of the race, it could ruin it. Install it in the bottom section of the frame. Tap it in at first with a hammer. Get a good view of it to make sure it's flat.
>>>Is a 'race pounder' necessary? What are the alternatives?>>>
I use a race pounder as its far easier and insures an equal install in its slot.
>>>I don't understand this mess at all.>>>
Do the same for the top race(#99-3504), noting that the bottom race looks like this: |/ \| and the top like this: |\ /| when installed. Larger side towards the outside of the tube, which is down for the lower one, and up for the upper.
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>>>Does the steering stem detach from the lower triple or is it part of it?
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Installing the larger (#99-3503) bearing onto the triple tree can be fairly difficult. If you have a hydraulic press and some PVC tubing, use that. If not, use a hammer and something hard to hold the clamps against. Place the bottom of the triple clamps so they are completely flat. Any angle in them and you'll bend them flat - which means you will need a new triple tree.
First, slide the larger seal (#33-1006) down, with the metal side facing downwards. Now slide the bearing down the tube, with the smaller outside diameter on the up side, and give it a solid push down with your hands so it doesn't move around in the next steps. Take a suitably close diameter piece of PVC tubing and the old bottom race flipped upside down to give the tubing more lip to bite onto. Be careful when you apply pressure. Do so slowly, and be ready for loud "pop" sounds as it goes on. Release the pressure once or twice to visually inspect for crookedness and make sure it's seating properly.
Lube everything up liberally, making sure you work the grease into the bearings well. Spin them several times and then re-apply to ensure it's getting deep into them. Put an extra bead just above the bottom bearing, as it will get forced down into the bearing when you install the forks and the bearings seat the grease in properly. Do the same for the races.
Slide the triple tree up into the frame. Take the smaller bearing (#99-3504) that you already worked grease into and slide it, small outer diameter side down, onto the tree. You will note this seems to stick up a bit - it does - and your bars will be a bit higher than before. Take the smaller seal (#33-1005-1) and place it, metal side up, onto the bearing. It should almost 'click' on, and on top of this you will place the dust cover and then the stem nut.
Tighten the stem nut up VERY tight, as hard as you think you can and still get it off. You are trying to seat the bearings, and you want maximum compression on all the bearings. Loosen it off until you can turn the triple tree freely.
<<<How to find the correct tightness for the stem nut?>>>
find the correct tightness so that >>>they>>> (huh?) just barely turn with no friction, remembering that they will tighten up a bit when you put the stem lock nut on.
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Reassemble the forks, fender, wheel, brake caliper, handlebars, and controls. Leave all of the nuts loose except the fender, as you can't reach those with the wheel on.
>>>This whole next part is completely unintelligible.
You should also tighten the handlebar holder bolts for the next step, but loosen them for the tightening of the other bolts, so you can square the forks later. Use some logic for "how loose?". Tighten the bolts on the triple clamps good (dont want them to give when you set them), but things like the axel extra loose. Once we have the front end back together, take the bike off of its supports and let the front wheel touch the ground. Jump up and down, or do anything to compress, on the forks, you're trying to push, pull, and contort the forks, squaring them off in the process. Its best to do this outside or with a partner so you dont fall over. Dont get over enthusiastic though, you just want them to get set properly, not brake them, or your back.
Tighten all the bolts, then check them all again. Snug the stem bolt (not the nut that you already did). Reassemble the horn, fairings, and gas tank. Put the bike on its centerstand. Turn the bars left and right, feeling for any notches or excess of friction. If there is too much, you will need to remove the
<<<stem bolt and play with the stem nut<<< (Is there a wrong word here? Like maybe 'bolt'?)
until it feels as if there is no friction or notches, and then replace the stem bolt.
Go for a very quick test ride, come back to tighten everything again.
